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phaeton
 
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Default Washer and Dryer Hookup Questions.

Hello! I don't know where I would be without the helpful folks on this
ng. Thanks in advance.

I have a couple of questions regarding washer and (mostly) dryer
hookup. To make a long story short, we've swapped our washer and dryer
around, i.e. from dryer on the left, washer on the right to dryer on
the right, washer on the left. The reason isn't horribly important,
but I'll summarize it at the end of this for anyone that's curious.

For the washer:

1) Are the hot water/cold water hookup hoses sold in set lengths, or is
it possible to go somewhere and say "make me a set of hoses N inches
long"?

2) For custom hoses, where might I go?

3) Any special considerations when making a drain trap out of PVC?
Just an "S" shape laying on its side, as long as i consider gravity and
stuff i'm ok, right?

For the dryer:

1) It's a gas dryer, but the gas hookup is now about 54" away.

2) Is it as simple as just getting a really long (60" or 70") flex
connection?

3) Is it better to extend the hard line a few feet (with more black
iron pipe) over to the other side so that the 48" flex connection is
adequate?

4) If I extend the hard line, is it possible to buy pre-threaded
sections of pipe like this in set lengths (6", 1', 2', 3', 4' etc)?

5) If I extend the hard line, should I mount the pipe to the wall, or
rest it on something on the floor?

6) What is the proper protocol for sealing the threads of any gas line
(whether I go with hard line or a longer flex)?

7) Where the gas connection is on the dryer is a bit of a tight fit
(with a wall in the way). I'm relatively sure that a flex line can
safely make the bend and still be within spec, but would there be any
objection or disadvantage to putting a 45 or 90 degree elbow on the gas
fitting so that the flex line doesn't have to bend so much?

8) I have the alumyewminium flexible dryer vent hose that came with the
dryer. Any truth to the rumor that I should always use hard duct with
gas dryer, or will this be fine?

Thanks for any and all

-phaeton


Reason:
The washer and dryer are front-loading types, the standard 27" width
each. The laundry area where they are intended to go was about 50" in
width. When we looked at the house, the washer and dryer were
staggered, with the washer sitting out in front of the dryer (we saw a
LOT of houses like this when househunting. Did the standard width
change in the last 20 years or something?) We have since cut a hole
into a non-load bearing wall and removed two studs to make room for our
appliances to fit side by side. However, being that they are both
front loaders, the washer door was unable to clear a small piece of
wall on the right hand side (the washer door is hinged on the left, and
the dryer door is hinged on the right. It is obvious that Maytag
intended the washer/dryer to be placed with washer on the left and
dryer on the right anyways).

It's been a learning experience, but as soon as I get this completed
and it all works, the Missus will be ecstatic with me ;-)

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Keith Williams
 
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Default Washer and Dryer Hookup Questions.

In article . com,
says...
Hello! I don't know where I would be without the helpful folks on this
ng. Thanks in advance.

I have a couple of questions regarding washer and (mostly) dryer
hookup. To make a long story short, we've swapped our washer and dryer
around, i.e. from dryer on the left, washer on the right to dryer on
the right, washer on the left. The reason isn't horribly important,
but I'll summarize it at the end of this for anyone that's curious.

For the washer:

1) Are the hot water/cold water hookup hoses sold in set lengths, or is
it possible to go somewhere and say "make me a set of hoses N inches
long"?

2) For custom hoses, where might I go?

3) Any special considerations when making a drain trap out of PVC?
Just an "S" shape laying on its side, as long as i consider gravity and
stuff i'm ok, right?


If it makes you feel better, I did the same.

For the dryer:

1) It's a gas dryer, but the gas hookup is now about 54" away.


Ours is electric. Sorry, no information about the gas connections.

8) I have the alumyewminium flexible dryer vent hose that came with the
dryer. Any truth to the rumor that I should always use hard duct with
gas dryer, or will this be fine?


Our dryer *highly* recommended hard aluminum duct. I simply got a
couple of low-profile elbows and routed the 4" line behind the
washer. It works fine. I don't trust any of the flexible stuff.

Reason:
The washer and dryer are front-loading types, the standard 27" width
each. The laundry area where they are intended to go was about 50" in
width. When we looked at the house, the washer and dryer were
staggered, with the washer sitting out in front of the dryer (we saw a
LOT of houses like this when househunting. Did the standard width
change in the last 20 years or something?) We have since cut a hole
into a non-load bearing wall and removed two studs to make room for our
appliances to fit side by side. However, being that they are both
front loaders, the washer door was unable to clear a small piece of
wall on the right hand side (the washer door is hinged on the left, and
the dryer door is hinged on the right. It is obvious that Maytag
intended the washer/dryer to be placed with washer on the left and
dryer on the right anyways).


Sounds familiar. ;-) My laundry room isn't wide enough to open
the door on the dryer completely so I had to put it to the right of
the washer so one could stand in front of the (top loading) washer
to (un)load the dryer. I was tiling the room at the same time I
moved them around so moved the water supply lines back a couple of
feet (they come up through the floor - no water supply in the
outside walls). In your case, I think I'd move the gas supply
similarly.

If I replace the washer and dryer I'd likely get stacking front-
loaders and turn them 90 degrees toward the door.

It's been a learning experience, but as soon as I get this completed
and it all works, the Missus will be ecstatic with me ;-)


Ecstatic? She's easy. Mine just stopped bitchin' 'bout the dryer.
;-)

--
Keith
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Posted to alt.home.repair
Toller
 
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Default Washer and Dryer Hookup Questions.


"phaeton" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hello! I don't know where I would be without the helpful folks on this
ng. Thanks in advance.

I normally am in favor of people doing stuff for themselves. I have fixed
several appliances with help from this group.

However the things you are dealing with here are dangerous, and you
obviously have no experience. I sure wouldn't hook up a gas line after
being told how over the internet. I hope you won't either.


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Posted to alt.home.repair
Brian Attwood
 
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Default Washer and Dryer Hookup Questions.

phaeton wrote:
It is obvious that Maytag
intended the washer/dryer to be placed with washer on the left and
dryer on the right anyways.


If they are anything like my front-loading Maytag washer and dryer, the
manual included instructions on how to swap the hinges from one side to
the other. Involved just a couple of screws and about ten minutes of
work.

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Posted to alt.home.repair
PipeDown
 
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Default Washer and Dryer Hookup Questions.


"phaeton" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hello! I don't know where I would be without the helpful folks on this
ng. Thanks in advance.

I have a couple of questions regarding washer and (mostly) dryer
hookup. To make a long story short, we've swapped our washer and dryer
around, i.e. from dryer on the left, washer on the right to dryer on
the right, washer on the left. The reason isn't horribly important,
but I'll summarize it at the end of this for anyone that's curious.

For the washer:

1) Are the hot water/cold water hookup hoses sold in set lengths, or is
it possible to go somewhere and say "make me a set of hoses N inches
long"?

Never seen custom hoses and I sure wouldn't trust the hose repair parts for
this application. If you can't find long enough (steel braided) hoses, buy
two sets and a coupler to connect them together in series.



3) Any special considerations when making a drain trap out of PVC?
Just an "S" shape laying on its side, as long as i consider gravity and
stuff i'm ok, right?

Its called a P trap and they sell the parts in the plumbing isle. make sure
it all flows downhill. If the drain pipe is sealed onto the drain, you also
need an air gap but if just slipped into the pipe with a natural gap, no
problem.


For the dryer:

1) It's a gas dryer, but the gas hookup is now about 54" away.

2) Is it as simple as just getting a really long (60" or 70") flex
connection?

Not sure but if you can buy one that long, its safe to assume its OK to use
it. I don't think I would connect them in series like I suggested with the
water pipes.


3) Is it better to extend the hard line a few feet (with more black
iron pipe) over to the other side so that the 48" flex connection is
adequate?

If you cannot find a longer connection, you will have to do this. If you
can find a 60" or so, than that is better because it is less work.


4) If I extend the hard line, is it possible to buy pre-threaded
sections of pipe like this in set lengths (6", 1', 2', 3', 4' etc)?

Yes, definately they do sell it like that.


5) If I extend the hard line, should I mount the pipe to the wall, or
rest it on something on the floor?


It needs to be rigidly secured to the wall or something permenant.

6) What is the proper protocol for sealing the threads of any gas line
(whether I go with hard line or a longer flex)?


Same as for water but the compound or tape is a bit thicker. Some people
say to use both. buy stuff labeled for gas don't try to use what you have
for water.

7) Where the gas connection is on the dryer is a bit of a tight fit
(with a wall in the way). I'm relatively sure that a flex line can
safely make the bend and still be within spec, but would there be any
objection or disadvantage to putting a 45 or 90 degree elbow on the gas
fitting so that the flex line doesn't have to bend so much?


Should be allowed

8) I have the alumyewminium flexible dryer vent hose that came with the
dryer. Any truth to the rumor that I should always use hard duct with
gas dryer, or will this be fine?


The ripples on the side slow the air down making it collect lint faster and
is harder to clean and it can tear or kink. The trend is toward rigid pipe.
Not sure if it is a code yet.


Thanks for any and all

-phaeton


Reason:
The washer and dryer are front-loading types, the standard 27" width
each. The laundry area where they are intended to go was about 50" in
width. When we looked at the house, the washer and dryer were
staggered, with the washer sitting out in front of the dryer (we saw a
LOT of houses like this when househunting. Did the standard width
change in the last 20 years or something?) We have since cut a hole
into a non-load bearing wall and removed two studs to make room for our
appliances to fit side by side. However, being that they are both
front loaders, the washer door was unable to clear a small piece of
wall on the right hand side (the washer door is hinged on the left, and
the dryer door is hinged on the right. It is obvious that Maytag
intended the washer/dryer to be placed with washer on the left and
dryer on the right anyways).

It's been a learning experience, but as soon as I get this completed
and it all works, the Missus will be ecstatic with me ;-)





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Posted to alt.home.repair
Ted Mittelstaedt
 
Posts: n/a
Default Washer and Dryer Hookup Questions.


"PipeDown" wrote in message
link.net...


For the dryer:

1) It's a gas dryer, but the gas hookup is now about 54" away.

2) Is it as simple as just getting a really long (60" or 70") flex
connection?

Not sure but if you can buy one that long, its safe to assume its OK to

use
it. I don't think I would connect them in series like I suggested with

the
water pipes.


3) Is it better to extend the hard line a few feet (with more black
iron pipe) over to the other side so that the 48" flex connection is
adequate?

If you cannot find a longer connection, you will have to do this. If you
can find a 60" or so, than that is better because it is less work.


4) If I extend the hard line, is it possible to buy pre-threaded
sections of pipe like this in set lengths (6", 1', 2', 3', 4' etc)?

Yes, definately they do sell it like that.


5) If I extend the hard line, should I mount the pipe to the wall, or
rest it on something on the floor?


It needs to be rigidly secured to the wall or something permenant.

6) What is the proper protocol for sealing the threads of any gas line
(whether I go with hard line or a longer flex)?


Same as for water but the compound or tape is a bit thicker. Some people
say to use both. buy stuff labeled for gas don't try to use what you have
for water.

7) Where the gas connection is on the dryer is a bit of a tight fit
(with a wall in the way). I'm relatively sure that a flex line can
safely make the bend and still be within spec, but would there be any
objection or disadvantage to putting a 45 or 90 degree elbow on the gas
fitting so that the flex line doesn't have to bend so much?


Should be allowed


Most jurisdictions have restrictions on the length of flex hose you can
use for a gas line and it's quite short - unless you are using the kind of
flex line they use for underground gas lines, which is a totally different
thing than the crinkly stuff you use for a hookup from black iron pipe
to the appliance. But for safety sake I would never use anything other
than black iron pipe for a gas line in a house, except for the very short
flex length from the end of the pipe to the appliance. I've never seen a
70"
flex connection like that and I wouldn't buy it if I did.

We have a gas dryer and I plumbed in the gas line myself, it is not
hard to do. Note that the safe way to do this is put shutoff valves at
all the end points of the gas line, then at the meter head, disconnect
the gas line and thread on a pressure test guage, then pressurize the
gas line to at least 50psi and let it sit for a couple hours to see if it
bleeds down. I believe that when you get it permitted, you have to
have the pressure guage attached and the line pressurized for the
inspector to see, but I was unfortunately not around when that
was done to our gas line. (a few years after I put in the gas dryer
we had a new furnace put in and at that time I had them rerun all
the gas lines)

Ted


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Edwin Pawlowski
 
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Default Washer and Dryer Hookup Questions.


"phaeton" wrote in message

1) Are the hot water/cold water hookup hoses sold in set lengths, or is
it possible to go somewhere and say "make me a set of hoses N inches
long"?


www.repairclinic.com The braided still hoses are best and come in 6'
lennghts, but the rubber comes in 10' if you need it.
http://www.repairclinic.com/0038.asp?AccCatID=1


I go?

3) Any special considerations when making a drain trap out of PVC?
Just an "S" shape laying on its side, as long as i consider gravity and
stuff i'm ok, right?


Pretty much. Too long a horizontal run and you will get a backup so be sure
it has plenty of pitch to it.


For the dryer:

1) It's a gas dryer, but the gas hookup is now about 54" away.

2) Is it as simple as just getting a really long (60" or 70") flex
connection?


Absolutly not. I've not kep up with the lates codes, but in the past NO
fles was allowed on a dryer. Check your local code to see what it calls
for. Ranges used to allow flex so they could be moved. Vibration from a
motor over time can cause flex to leak.


4) If I extend the hard line, is it possible to buy pre-threaded
sections of pipe like this in set lengths (6", 1', 2', 3', 4' etc)?


Many places will cut and thread what you need.


5) If I extend the hard line, should I mount the pipe to the wall, or
rest it on something on the floor?


Mounted. There are brackets made just for that.



6) What is the proper protocol for sealing the threads of any gas line
(whether I go with hard line or a longer flex)?


Read a book on basic piping. They make a special tape for gas pipe as well
as other thread compounds.



7) Where the gas connection is on the dryer is a bit of a tight fit
(with a wall in the way). I'm relatively sure that a flex line can
safely make the bend and still be within spec, but would there be any
objection or disadvantage to putting a 45 or 90 degree elbow on the gas
fitting so that the flex line doesn't have to bend so much?


I'd not use flex, but the tighter the bend, the more likely failure. Never
a tight bend. Use the proper fittings. Be sure to have a shut off valve
before the connection so the appliance can be turnef off if it has to be
disconnecte for service. I sgtronly recommend you get some help if you've
never done piping before. Proper material and proper methods are very
important for gas. Learn to measure and allow for fittings tool.


8) I have the alumyewminium flexible dryer vent hose that came with the
dryer. Any truth to the rumor that I should always use hard duct with
gas dryer, or will this be fine?


Smoother the better. Only use the flex if you have to. Straight sections
are less likely to accumulate lint.




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Posted to alt.home.repair
 
Posts: n/a
Default Washer and Dryer Hookup Questions.


Agree with all the good advice Pipedown gave. Only comments are below:




Same as for water but the compound or tape is a bit thicker. Some people
say to use both. buy stuff labeled for gas don't try to use what you have
for water.


I haven't seen tape used on gas, only dope, which is what I use, though
tape may be OK.





7) Where the gas connection is on the dryer is a bit of a tight fit
(with a wall in the way). I'm relatively sure that a flex line can
safely make the bend and still be within spec, but would there be any
objection or disadvantage to putting a 45 or 90 degree elbow on the gas
fitting so that the flex line doesn't have to bend so much?


Should be allowed


I would think it would be OK too, if the elbow exists. What he needs
is an elbow with fittings to marry up to the dryer and hose ends, which
aren't regular pipe threads, so a regular elbow isn't going to work.
A plumbing supply should be able to tell him if they have such an
animal.

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Posted to alt.home.repair
 
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Default Washer and Dryer Hookup Questions.

the big thing, keep the vent line as short as possible, longer vents
make clothes drying less efficent.

i would investigatre swapping the doors, much less work.

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phaeton
 
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Default Washer and Dryer Hookup Questions.

I investigated door swapping, but they are non-swappable.

Nonetheless, I've enlisted the help of the gf's grandfather (very handy
and experienced with just about anything) to help with the project.
We're going to extend the hard line for the dryer, and possibly move
the dryer vent as well. As for washer hoses, I did find some male-male
connectors so that I can put a few hoses together, but he mentions that
I could instead probably get some hoses made that would be much less
prone to leakage.

He's been busy with a lot of other things, so I'm sort of waiting on
him to tackle this. In the end I think it'll be done *right* and
that's the part I like best.

At least there's a laundromat nearby.

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