On very narrow joints, is there any reason I can't use thinset instead of
grout?

Since there is 10 lbs of thinset left in the bag, and it is the same color
as the grout I chose, I'm tempted.

Somebody stop me if this is a mistake...

Thanks in advance.

KB

Both are portland cement plus sand. Thinset is hidden and so it
usually is composed of the cheapest grey portland cement. White or
colored grout uses white portland cement which is more expensive than
grey, it can be left white or tinted to any grout color. Since grout is
non-structural just about any cementitious base would suffice, unless
you are looking for decreased water permeability. So if it is the same
color, go ahead and use it but you MUST seal it.


Kyle Boatright wrote:
On very narrow joints, is there any reason I can't use thinset instead of
grout?

Since there is 10 lbs of thinset left in the bag, and it is the same color
as the grout I chose, I'm tempted.

Somebody stop me if this is a mistake...

Thanks in advance.

KB

buy the real thing the thinset will likely need cleaned and resealed
every year. for a few nucks why create another yearly project?

Kyle Boatright wrote:
On very narrow joints, is there any reason I can't use thinset
instead of grout?

Since there is 10 lbs of thinset left in the bag, and it is the same
color as the grout I chose, I'm tempted.

As long as the joints are wide enough for sanded grout, thinset is fine.
No real difference other than color.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

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....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Thinset and grout are not the same. They are formulated
only for their specific purpose. If you had a few small
joints to fill, such as in a small repair, you could use the
thinset as grout.

On "very narrow joints" as you describe, you shouldn't
use sanded material, as thinset is. The grout also has
properties that make it set-up quickly, so it can be worked
to it's finished look. Thinset is designed to do the opposite-
stay fluid for a long time, thereby washing-out the joint as
you sponge it.

Spend a few bucks and get the correct grout and save
yourself some work. Do it right.

thetiler

replying to Kyle Boatright, Outdoorman wrote:
I did a glass floor mosaic tile in my shower and used Custom white polymer
modified thinset for the thinset and grout. Side note, I had to do
2-3 runs, as it didn't fill the cracks as as well as sanded grout, but 4 years
later it's working great. I used really heavy coats of 511 for the sealer and
let it cure for 72 hours before use. I think is much stronger than the sanded
grout. Initially I planned to use sanded grout but my trowelled sub straight
lines were too thick and the thinset came up between a lot of the tiles,
that's when the idea struck to just also grout with thinset. I also used the
logic Portland cement is Portland cement. It was an accidental success.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ut-102927-.htm

On Tuesday, August 1, 2017 at 10:14:09 PM UTC-5, Outdoorman wrote:
replying to Kyle Boatright, Outdoorman wrote:
I did a glass floor mosaic tile in my shower and used Custom white polymer
modified thinset for the thinset and grout. Side note, I had to do
2-3 runs, as it didn't fill the cracks as as well as sanded grout, but 4 years
later it's working great. I used really heavy coats of 511 for the sealer and
let it cure for 72 hours before use. I think is much stronger than the sanded
grout. Initially I planned to use sanded grout but my trowelled sub straight
lines were too thick and the thinset came up between a lot of the tiles,
that's when the idea struck to just also grout with thinset. I also used the
logic Portland cement is Portland cement. It was an accidental success.
--


You're too late! 10 years ago, while receiving a shipment, Kyle was buried under a dump truck load of grout when the soft ground gave way under the wheels on one side of the dump truck. Even his 463 gerbils were unable to dig him out in time. It was a real tragedy. His gerbils really miss him. (~_~

[8~{} Uncle Sad Monster

Uncle Monster posted for all of us...



On Tuesday, August 1, 2017 at 10:14:09 PM UTC-5, Outdoorman wrote:
replying to Kyle Boatright, Outdoorman wrote:
I did a glass floor mosaic tile in my shower and used Custom white polymer
modified thinset for the thinset and grout. Side note, I had to do
2-3 runs, as it didn't fill the cracks as as well as sanded grout, but 4 years
later it's working great. I used really heavy coats of 511 for the sealer and
let it cure for 72 hours before use. I think is much stronger than the sanded
grout. Initially I planned to use sanded grout but my trowelled sub straight
lines were too thick and the thinset came up between a lot of the tiles,
that's when the idea struck to just also grout with thinset. I also used the
logic Portland cement is Portland cement. It was an accidental success.
--


You're too late! 10 years ago, while receiving a shipment, Kyle was buried under a dump truck load of grout when the soft ground gave way under the wheels on one side of the dump truck. Even his 463 gerbils were unable to dig him out in time. It was a real tragedy. His gerbils really miss him. (~_~

[8~{} Uncle Sad Monster

The gerbils were the ones doing the tunneling. He didn't notice the cover
over the booby trap. They have relocated and are thriving.

--
Tekkie

replying to Outdoorman, miguel wrote:
Outdoorman, My shower floor too is just sheets of rock but way too much
thinset came up and i didn't clean it in time. It's the same color as what I
place to use on the walls with grout but so I was planning on just filling the
rest in with the thinset and drying then sealing the floor. Alot of the rock
are white/gray/tan colors. Do you think the white/bone colored thinset will
stain? Is yours still holding up and not allowing any water to penetrate
underneath and cause them to separate?

Thanks for your information.

Miguel

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ut-102927-.htm