What type of preparation is necessary for a sealed, so-called
maintenance free 12-volt battery for garden tractors?

Seem to recall reading somewhere that it has to be charged first. Can
you give me some more details as to amount of time, etc? My charger
doesn't have the safety feature that prevents overcharging. Any other
prep necessary?

Thanks, Mary

According to Jack :
What type of preparation is necessary for a sealed, so-called
maintenance free 12-volt battery for garden tractors?

Seem to recall reading somewhere that it has to be charged first. Can
you give me some more details as to amount of time, etc? My charger
doesn't have the safety feature that prevents overcharging. Any other
prep necessary?

Like auto batteries, most of the time such batteries come either precharged,
or the dealer charges them for you when you buy them.

So stick it in the tractor and see if it starts it.

If not, stick it on your charger for 4-6 hours, and that should start the
tractor.

Once the tractor is running mow the lawn and let its alternator/generator
top it up.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

Charge it by voltage, I think 12.65v-12.8 is full charge, clean the case
good with soap and water a dirty case conducts electricity alowing it to
self discharge. Always keep it charged or the plates sulfate and life is
shortened. Put in distilled water if it is low and not sealed. Clean the
inside of the tractor terminals and battery terminals. If it is new just
check voltage.

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 18:18:18 -0600, (m Ransley)
wrote:

Charge it by voltage, I think 12.65v-12.8 is full charge, clean the case
good with soap and water a dirty case conducts electricity alowing it to
self discharge. Always keep it charged or the plates sulfate and life is

I think it is fast recharges that cause sulfating. That might be a
likely result of letting a battery get discharged and recharging it
with a high amp charger, or by the tractor itself (I don't know what
output the tractor has). Best to recharge as slowly as feasible. But
it's not letting the battery get or sit discharged that is the actual
cause of sulfating.

shortened. Put in distilled water if it is low and not sealed. Clean the
inside of the tractor terminals and battery terminals. If it is new just
check voltage.

mm wrote in
:

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 18:18:18 -0600, (m Ransley)
wrote:

Charge it by voltage, I think 12.65v-12.8 is full charge, clean the case
good with soap and water a dirty case conducts electricity alowing it to
self discharge. Always keep it charged or the plates sulfate and life is

I think it is fast recharges that cause sulfating.

I think you think wrong.
Better Google " battery sulfating" and see what you get.

example;http://www.europulse.com/eng/technology/index.shtml



--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On 21 Mar 2006 14:29:32 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

mm wrote in
:

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 18:18:18 -0600, (m Ransley)
wrote:

Charge it by voltage, I think 12.65v-12.8 is full charge, clean the case
good with soap and water a dirty case conducts electricity alowing it to
self discharge. Always keep it charged or the plates sulfate and life is

I think it is fast recharges that cause sulfating.

I think you think wrong.
Better Google " battery sulfating" and see what you get.

example; http://www.europulse.com/eng/technology/index.shtml

My description was too short to be complete, but so is the description
on the site above.

On this site I think they've over simplified it because they are
trying to sell something "Patented pulse technology reverses sulfate
accumulation in your existing batteries. More importantly, it prevents
sulfation from ever developing in new batteries. By pulsing DC current
into the battery, it re-energizes crystallized sulfates deposited on
the plates and returns them to the battery acid as active sulfur
molecules. With the plates in the battery kept clean, it will provide
more power, faster recharge speed, cooler charging temperatures and
longer battery life."

It's 2AM. I'll try to get back with a longer ansewr tomorrow or the
next day.

mm wrote in
:

On 21 Mar 2006 14:29:32 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

mm wrote in
m:

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 18:18:18 -0600, (m Ransley)
wrote:

Charge it by voltage, I think 12.65v-12.8 is full charge, clean the
case good with soap and water a dirty case conducts electricity
alowing it to self discharge. Always keep it charged or the plates
sulfate and life is

I think it is fast recharges that cause sulfating.

I think you think wrong.
Better Google " battery sulfating" and see what you get.

example; http://www.europulse.com/eng/technology/index.shtml

My description was too short to be complete, but so is the description
on the site above.

On this site I think they've over simplified it because they are
trying to sell something "Patented pulse technology reverses sulfate
accumulation in your existing batteries. More importantly, it prevents
sulfation from ever developing in new batteries. By pulsing DC current
into the battery, it re-energizes crystallized sulfates deposited on
the plates and returns them to the battery acid as active sulfur
molecules. With the plates in the battery kept clean, it will provide
more power, faster recharge speed, cooler charging temperatures and
longer battery life."

It's 2AM. I'll try to get back with a longer ansewr tomorrow or the
next day.


From what I've read on the 'Net,sulfation is from both under AND
overcharging,and also occurs when the battery is left *unused*. The lead
sulfate is formed normally during discharge,is initially soft and dissolves
back into the sulfuric acid electrolyte when recharged,but eventually
crystallizes and does not re-dissolve under ordinary charging,and the
cell's internal resistance increases.

There are many sites covering LA battery sulfation,and they pretty much
agree with what I've said.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Jim Yanik wrote:
mm wrote in
:

On 21 Mar 2006 14:29:32 GMT, Jim Yanik wrote:

mm wrote in
:

On Mon, 20 Mar 2006 18:18:18 -0600, (m Ransley)
wrote:

Charge it by voltage, I think 12.65v-12.8 is full charge, clean the
case good with soap and water a dirty case conducts electricity
alowing it to self discharge. Always keep it charged or the plates
sulfate and life is
I think it is fast recharges that cause sulfating.
I think you think wrong.
Better Google " battery sulfating" and see what you get.

example; http://www.europulse.com/eng/technology/index.shtml
My description was too short to be complete, but so is the description
on the site above.

On this site I think they've over simplified it because they are
trying to sell something "Patented pulse technology reverses sulfate
accumulation in your existing batteries. More importantly, it prevents
sulfation from ever developing in new batteries. By pulsing DC current
into the battery, it re-energizes crystallized sulfates deposited on
the plates and returns them to the battery acid as active sulfur
molecules. With the plates in the battery kept clean, it will provide
more power, faster recharge speed, cooler charging temperatures and
longer battery life."

It's 2AM. I'll try to get back with a longer ansewr tomorrow or the
next day.


From what I've read on the 'Net,sulfation is from both under AND
overcharging,and also occurs when the battery is left *unused*. The lead
sulfate is formed normally during discharge,is initially soft and dissolves
back into the sulfuric acid electrolyte when recharged,but eventually
crystallizes and does not re-dissolve under ordinary charging,and the
cell's internal resistance increases.

There are many sites covering LA battery sulfation,and they pretty much
agree with what I've said.


A sulfated battery might be helped with an "Equalization Charge".

Real good coverage at

http://www.batteryfaq.org