I will be having my house re-sided with either cedar lap siding or
cedar shingles (currently it has cedar shakes that are poorly installed
(not sufficient overlap.) I have several questions.

#1--the sheathing underneath is shiplap (looks like 1x8 boards). Is
this significantly less strong than plywood sheathing? Would it be
worth my effort to have a layer of plywood installed over the top of
this shiplap sheathing? Also, this shiplap sheathing is installed
horizontally...I've heard its supposed to be diagonal...is this a bad
thing?


#2 When the siding people are installing the siding (and possibly
plywood), how on earth can they avoid the posibility of piercing a wire
or plumbing fixture?

joe said:
the sheathing underneath is shiplap (looks like 1x8 boards). Is
this significantly less strong than plywood sheathing? Would it be
worth my effort to have a layer of plywood installed over the top of
this shiplap sheathing?

no and no

Also, this shiplap sheathing is installed
horizontally...I've heard its supposed to be diagonal...is this a bad
thing?

no

When the siding people are installing the siding (and possibly
plywood), how on earth can they avoid the posibility of piercing a wire

or plumbing fixture?

The length of nail chosen should only penetrate the sheathing.

"joe" wrote in message
oups.com...
I will be having my house re-sided with either cedar lap siding or
cedar shingles (currently it has cedar shakes that are poorly installed
(not sufficient overlap.) I have several questions.

#1--the sheathing underneath is shiplap (looks like 1x8 boards). Is
this significantly less strong than plywood sheathing? Would it be
worth my effort to have a layer of plywood installed over the top of
this shiplap sheathing? Also, this shiplap sheathing is installed
horizontally...I've heard its supposed to be diagonal...is this a bad
thing?


#2 When the siding people are installing the siding (and possibly
plywood), how on earth can they avoid the posibility of piercing a wire
or plumbing fixture?


If the old shiplap is in half decent shape I would not rip it out and
replace it. It is almost twice the thickness of 1/2" plywood and is a far
stronger material. A vapor barrier might or might not be called for based on
what is under the shiplap.

If your plumbing and wiring are installed as they should be no nail can
reach them. I doubt that a nail longer than 1.5" will be used for the
siding so even if wiring and plumbing are not 100% right the chance of
hitting something are very small.

Colbyt

How old is the house?
Is it plumb and level?
If it has lasted a few years without significant problems, it's clearly
o.k. for local conditions.

I leave the answer to someone with more experience, but I understand
that cedar needs special treatment: compatible flashing material and
installation to let it dry from behind.

I think you are concerned about nails going into the wall cavity and
doing damage...
Choose nails carefully and that will help.
There are no guarantees.

TB

First off, cedar siding comes in various thicknesses. Don't get the thin
stuff like on my previous house. It cracks all over. In fact I don't know
why anyone would get cedar at all. Too much maintenence. Go with cement
board.


"joe" wrote in message
oups.com...
I will be having my house re-sided with either cedar lap siding or
cedar shingles (currently it has cedar shakes that are poorly installed
(not sufficient overlap.) I have several questions.

#1--the sheathing underneath is shiplap (looks like 1x8 boards). Is
this significantly less strong than plywood sheathing? Would it be
worth my effort to have a layer of plywood installed over the top of
this shiplap sheathing? Also, this shiplap sheathing is installed
horizontally...I've heard its supposed to be diagonal...is this a bad
thing?


#2 When the siding people are installing the siding (and possibly
plywood), how on earth can they avoid the posibility of piercing a wire
or plumbing fixture?

I wouldn't replace the sheathing unless it is damaged or rotted, and then I
would only replace the bad bits. You might want to consider some sort of
vapor barrier if there isn't already one there (tyvek is good) between the
sheathing and siding.

the nails shouldn't be a problem because they should not penetrate beyond
the sheathing....

--JD


"joe" wrote in message
oups.com...
I will be having my house re-sided with either cedar lap siding or
cedar shingles (currently it has cedar shakes that are poorly installed
(not sufficient overlap.) I have several questions.

#1--the sheathing underneath is shiplap (looks like 1x8 boards). Is
this significantly less strong than plywood sheathing? Would it be
worth my effort to have a layer of plywood installed over the top of
this shiplap sheathing? Also, this shiplap sheathing is installed
horizontally...I've heard its supposed to be diagonal...is this a bad
thing?


#2 When the siding people are installing the siding (and possibly
plywood), how on earth can they avoid the posibility of piercing a wire
or plumbing fixture?

.... what the others have said so far: ditto.

Definitely think of a vapor barrier (Tyvek or equivalent) while you
have the siding off. Also, if you live in a climate where it gets cold
for any part of the year, consider adding some polyisocyanurate
insulating foam board before you put up the new siding.

"joe" wrote:

Check out http://www.cedarbureau.org/

great information there.

joe wrote:
I will be having my house re-sided with either cedar lap siding or
cedar shingles (currently it has cedar shakes that are poorly installed
(not sufficient overlap.) I have several questions.

#1--the sheathing underneath is shiplap (looks like 1x8 boards). Is
this significantly less strong than plywood sheathing? Would it be
worth my effort to have a layer of plywood installed over the top of
this shiplap sheathing? Also, this shiplap sheathing is installed
horizontally...I've heard its supposed to be diagonal...is this a bad
thing?

A housewrap is never a bad idea, provided the addition of it to your
budget wouldn't break the bank...Tyvek is decent, but for the same
price I recommend a product called typar. It's a lot more tear
resistant during the installation process, but more importantly the
tannins in wood siding or wood shingles drastically reduce the surface
tension of water that might get through the siding (even with proper
installation) with wind driven rain or through capillary action,
rendering tyvek nearly useless. Typar is the only one of the largest 5
housewrap competitors to pass in independent testing (ASTM D-799) when
used with alternate home cladding (stucco, wood shingling). also gives
a decent amount of energy conservation the the house (35% or so for
heating, 15 or so for cooling)...if you want some info feel free to get
in contact...

joe wrote:
I will be having my house re-sided with either cedar lap siding or
cedar shingles (currently it has cedar shakes that are poorly installed
(not sufficient overlap.) I have several questions.

#1--the sheathing underneath is shiplap (looks like 1x8 boards). Is
this significantly less strong than plywood sheathing? Would it be
worth my effort to have a layer of plywood installed over the top of
this shiplap sheathing? Also, this shiplap sheathing is installed
horizontally...I've heard its supposed to be diagonal...is this a bad
thing?

A housewrap is never a bad idea, provided the addition of it to your
budget wouldn't break the bank...Tyvek is decent, but for the same
price I recommend a product called typar. It's a lot more tear
resistant during the installation process, but more importantly the
tannins in wood siding or wood shingles drastically reduce the surface
tension of water that might get through the siding (even with proper
installation) with wind driven rain or through capillary action,
rendering tyvek nearly useless. Typar is the only one of the largest 5
housewrap competitors to pass in independent testing (ASTM D-799) when
used with alternate home cladding (stucco, wood shingling). also gives
a decent amount of energy conservation the the house (35% or so for
heating, 15 or so for cooling)...if you want some info feel free to get
in contact...