Cement board/ceramic and a lam. question
 

In applying cement board to the floor in order to install tile, do I need to
remove glued down 25 year old Congoleum? It is secure, the wood that it is
glued to is secure, so is there any reason why it can't just stay right
there?
Thanks.

Same question applying to installing click laminate flooring? (not about
installing a cement board, but about leaving the congoleum)

Perry

Cement board/ceramic and a lam. question
 

No need to remove in either case.
You do know you need 1 1/4" of subfloor for under tile? (this doesn't
include the non structural cement board underlayment). Some vinyl floors are
installed over only 3/4" subfloor.

"Perry Templeton" wrote in message
...
In applying cement board to the floor in order to install tile, do I need
to remove glued down 25 year old Congoleum? It is secure, the wood that
it is glued to is secure, so is there any reason why it can't just stay
right there?
Thanks.

Same question applying to installing click laminate flooring? (not about
installing a cement board, but about leaving the congoleum)

Perry

Cement board/ceramic and a lam. question
 

Everybody is cement-board happy. I don't like using it on
floors because it has no tensile strength. Use cementboard
on walls.
As a professional I use hardibacker on floors due
to it's tougher tensile strength and compression strength,
and it doesn't expand and contract. It is also highly
water resistant.

A good alternative for the average DIY homeowner would
be exterior-grade (CDX) plywood. A 1/2" layer glued and
screwed over a 3/4" existing floor would give the needed
1 1/4" subfloor to receive tile (use exterior grade screws-
NOT drywall screws).
Exterior-grade plywood can be gone over with multi-purpose
thinset* and is the "correct" type of plywood to use for tiling.
Look on the back of any brand or type of multi-purpose
(polymer modified) thinset, and you'll see "exterior grade
plywood" listed as an acceptable surface for it's use.
It is also very resistant to moisture. It is what roofers use
(in Florida anyway) under roofing. It is also inexpensive,
easy to cut and easy for a homeowner to work with.

NOTE: this would only be for interior use, where the
temperature and humidity is kept at a relative constant.
Plywood will expand and contract in temp. extremes.
*Always use the highest quality "flex-set" thinset over
plywood.

thetiler

Cement board/ceramic and a lam. question
 

On 20 Jan 2006 22:48:14 -0800, "thetiler" wrote:

As a professional I use hardibacker on floors

I've grown so fond of it that I use it on both walls and floors in its
various thicknesses depending on thickness need of the job. A pure
joy to cut also.

Regards,
Ed