This morning while cleaning out the sinktrap in our upstairs bathroom I
noticed that the flange on the end of the pipe jutting from the wall is
cracked. What is the best way to repair this? The thing looks like
this:

wall ---------
|
|
__ --where flange is broken

(sorry for the crappy ascii!)

It's not broken all of the way around, just about 1/3 of the way
around. I was going to clean it off then put some epoxy or something on
it but I wasn't sure if it would hold. I'm a plumbing noob, so go easy
on me!

wrote in message
ups.com...
This morning while cleaning out the sinktrap in our upstairs bathroom I
noticed that the flange on the end of the pipe jutting from the wall is
cracked. What is the best way to repair this? The thing looks like
this:

wall ---------
|
|
__ --where flange is broken

(sorry for the crappy ascii!)

It's not broken all of the way around, just about 1/3 of the way
around. I was going to clean it off then put some epoxy or something on
it but I wasn't sure if it would hold. I'm a plumbing noob, so go easy
on me!


Remove the part(s), take it to the hardware store or home center, and get a new one

wrote:
This morning while cleaning out the sinktrap in our upstairs bathroom I
noticed that the flange on the end of the pipe jutting from the wall is
cracked. What is the best way to repair this? The thing looks like
this:

wall ---------
|
|
__ --where flange is broken

(sorry for the crappy ascii!)

It's not broken all of the way around, just about 1/3 of the way
around. I was going to clean it off then put some epoxy or something on
it but I wasn't sure if it would hold. I'm a plumbing noob, so go easy
on me!
When you say "flange" what exactly does that look like? Most
intallations I've seen in the midwest have a pipe that goes into the
wall that has a threaded nut on it usually chromed which has a
compression washer that slides over the PVC or chromed brass pipe that
exits the P trap. This is usually extra long to allow adjustment of the
whole assembly.
Richard

Here is a pictu
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22...House/pipe.jpg

The 90 turns down and at the end is the flange/lip (right above the
black gasket/ring). It's there where it is cracked. The pipe coming out
of the wall I THINK is chrome, or was at one time. The horizontal end
of the 90 looks welded or something in there.

wrote:
Here is a pictu
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22...House/pipe.jpg

The 90 turns down and at the end is the flange/lip (right above the
black gasket/ring). It's there where it is cracked. The pipe coming out
of the wall I THINK is chrome, or was at one time. The horizontal end
of the 90 looks welded or something in there.


Bit hard to tell from the pic, but years ago the
practice was to solder the chrome tubular trap arm
into a "solder bushing". The bushing is brass and
has pipe threads on the outside to screw into
the 90 or TEE in the wall.

There is no good tool to get the bushing out and
usually have to make a saw cut thru the side and
then collapse the bushing.

Solder bushings are no longer used and a "Desanco"
fitting (compression) replaces the bushing:
http://media.doitbest.com/products/404280.gif

Jim

Speedy Jim wrote:
wrote:
Here is a pictu
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22...House/pipe.jpg

The 90 turns down and at the end is the flange/lip (right above the
black gasket/ring). It's there where it is cracked. The pipe coming out
of the wall I THINK is chrome, or was at one time. The horizontal end
of the 90 looks welded or something in there.


Bit hard to tell from the pic, but years ago the
practice was to solder the chrome tubular trap arm
into a "solder bushing". The bushing is brass and
has pipe threads on the outside to screw into
the 90 or TEE in the wall.

There is no good tool to get the bushing out and
usually have to make a saw cut thru the side and
then collapse the bushing.

Solder bushings are no longer used and a "Desanco"
fitting (compression) replaces the bushing:
http://media.doitbest.com/products/404280.gif

Jim
Well judging from the pic you can try to unscrew the first chrome
looking nut from the wall. It looks like its backwards from what I'm
used to. It should come off counter clockwise and be a compression
washer on the 90º that would normally slide into the pipe that comes
out of the wall. If it comes of clockwise ( and that is what it looks
like) there will probably be a flange coming from he wall and the 90º
will be threaded where it meets the pipe going into the wall. If that's
the case then post a picture after you take that off. You should be
able to do it with moderate persuasion from some Channel-Locs.
It actually looks like there's a flange soldered into the copper? waste
that goes into the wall.
Is this your house or a rental?
Richard

Well judging from the pic you can try to unscrew the first chrome
looking nut from the wall. It looks like its backwards from what I'm
used to. It should come off counter clockwise and be a compression
washer on the 90º that would normally slide into the pipe that comes
out of the wall. If it comes of clockwise ( and that is what it looks
like) there will probably be a flange coming from he wall and the 90º
will be threaded where it meets the pipe going into the wall. If that's
the case then post a picture after you take that off. You should be
able to do it with moderate persuasion from some Channel-Locs.
It actually looks like there's a flange soldered into the copper? waste
that goes into the wall.
Is this your house or a rental?

It's my house for the time being.

I cut the 90 off (it was rotten in a couple of places). The horizontal
pipe going to the right was soft also and had some rot on it. I removed
all of that and ended up with this:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22...se/cutpipe.jpg

There were no threads ANYWHERE on there. The 90 was solder to a section
of copper that was sectioned to what I think is lead (or old
galvanized, whatever it is, it's fairly thick and solid, like a black
pipe).

What I'm thinking of doing is getting a section of 1.25", cleaning out
the stub from the wall (the inside was cleaned out since I shot this
picture, I'll wipe it with some wet or dry to remove the remaining
crud). I'll solder a 90 to this section of pipe, then I'll slide the
other end of pipe into the outlet shown and will solder that up.

It would have been cheaper for her to buy a new contact lens, but then
I'd be repairing this at another time.

It's my house for the time being.
OK then it's worth the effort
I cut the 90 off (it was rotten in a couple of places). The horizontal
pipe going to the right was soft also and had some rot on it. I removed
all of that and ended up with this:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y22...se/cutpipe.jpg

There were no threads ANYWHERE on there. The 90 was solder to a section
of copper that was sectioned to what I think is lead (or old
galvanized, whatever it is, it's fairly thick and solid, like a black
pipe).
Wow, how old is the house? When you scrape that pipe with a knife does
it feel and look like lead?
How thick.
What I'm thinking of doing is getting a section of 1.25", cleaning out
the stub from the wall (the inside was cleaned out since I shot this
picture, I'll wipe it with some wet or dry to remove the remaining
crud).
If it is lead, you'll have to ream out the inside of the pipe to get
the solder to take. The piece you insert should be female and allow you
to slide another 90º into it and secure it with a nut and compression
gasket. Also this will be like "sweating a pipe in the old fashioned
way" do you have a local expert that can advise you on how to do that?
You could consider stick epoxy if that outlet pipe is sound.
If you're going to be in this house for a while you'll want to get a
thicker walled "extension piece" to sweat into the outlet lead pipe.
Otherwise you'll be doing this again in ~10 years.
That thin stuff that's normally sold for drains and P traps wears out.
It would have been cheaper for her to buy a new contact lens, but then
I'd be repairing this at another time.
Aha.. I've been there. These thin brass Ps can be like paper when you
go to take one apart they will just crumble in your hand. I fact you
should be careful when you do this. I always squeeze the P before I
take it apart. It can be worn down to the chrome plating and very
sharp. The high wear point is the outside of the radius and usually is
the first place it fails.
Richard

http://www.fernco.com/DTC.asp
look at DTC-150 just a screwdriver attaches this rubber adapter.

The house is 1915. It's a fairly solid place, with lath walls and some
huge beams under the floors along with a 4" concrete slab in the
bathroom that had pipes running IN the slab not below it.

It is lead, I scraped a bit of it last night and it had that lead feel.

The epoxy sounds good, I can sweat pipes but that is a tight spot, I
don't want to catch the house on fire.

If it wasn't for the black scum inside that pipe it would have leaked
years ago. Pretty scary.

We're moving east in the spring to a much newer home, Raleigh here I
come.