In March 2004, our Kenmore Electric Dryer (model #110-66912690), purchased
in 1996, stopped heating. Repairman replaced the heating element. A few
months later the dryer wouldn't work at all, possibly due to a door switch
or some other problem. We decided to buy an new one rather than have another
expensive repair. We decided to buy the exact same model figuring that the
old one falling apart was just a fluke.

Unfortunately, we were wrong. Our new Kenmore Electric dryer suddenly
stopped heating last week. It spins fine, just no heat at all. Now, I have
to admit that I'm impressed with Sears/Kenmore's engineers. This new model
failed as soon after the warranty as you could reasonably expect: 4 months.
It must be difficult to manufacture a product with a lifetime tuned so well
to the warranty. But enough conspiracy theory...

I took off the front bottom panel and tested the heating element with a
ohmmeter. It measured around 8-10 ohms. I assume that means the element
isn't broken. I flipped the house breaker, checked the ducts, no luck. So,
it must be some other piece of the puzzle.

Does anyone have any ideas on easy things to check on this particular model?

Thanks,
Mike

PS. I lodged a complaint with Sears online on Oct 25 and they said someone
would get back to me in 48 hours. Another misrepresentation from my friends
at Sears. I guess the thousands of dollars I've spent there on appliances
means nothing. If I'm ever asked, I'll tell people I know to avoid Sears at
all cost.

If that Sears is local to you, I'd submit a complaint to the BBB.
No, they don't make the product, but --- they decide to sell it.
Or not.

HTH

"mikegi" wrote in message
...
: In March 2004, our Kenmore Electric Dryer (model
#110-66912690), purchased
: in 1996, stopped heating. Repairman replaced the heating
element. A few
: months later the dryer wouldn't work at all, possibly due to a
door switch
: or some other problem. We decided to buy an new one rather than
have another
: expensive repair. We decided to buy the exact same model
figuring that the
: old one falling apart was just a fluke.
:
: Unfortunately, we were wrong. Our new Kenmore Electric dryer
suddenly
: stopped heating last week. It spins fine, just no heat at all.
Now, I have
: to admit that I'm impressed with Sears/Kenmore's engineers.
This new model
: failed as soon after the warranty as you could reasonably
expect: 4 months.
: It must be difficult to manufacture a product with a lifetime
tuned so well
: to the warranty. But enough conspiracy theory...
:
: I took off the front bottom panel and tested the heating
element with a
: ohmmeter. It measured around 8-10 ohms. I assume that means the
element
: isn't broken. I flipped the house breaker, checked the ducts,
no luck. So,
: it must be some other piece of the puzzle.
:
: Does anyone have any ideas on easy things to check on this
particular model?
:
: Thanks,
: Mike
:
: PS. I lodged a complaint with Sears online on Oct 25 and they
said someone
: would get back to me in 48 hours. Another misrepresentation
from my friends
: at Sears. I guess the thousands of dollars I've spent there on
appliances
: means nothing. If I'm ever asked, I'll tell people I know to
avoid Sears at
: all cost.
:
:

I'm sorry you are having problems with Sears Kenmore appliances.
I have always had good luck with the Kenmores, they are made by
Whirlpool. A dryer is a fairly simple piece of equipment to keep
operating, but then I do my own fixing. A heating element is
about $20-30. A repair book is about $10 and comes complete with
pictures and is laid out so it is easy to follow. If you're
fairly sure that the element is not hurt, another common culprit
is the door switch. You might also double check the breakers.
sometimes one leg will trip. To be sure, turn the breaker(s)
completely off and back on and/or use your tester to make sure you
have 110 on each leg.


You can do all the diagnosing on the internet if you like:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=appliance+repair&btnG=Google+Search

There is one of these fellows who frequents this newsgroup and
hopefully he will respond. Hope you get it running soon, nothing
upsets a household like an unhappy woman fighting with an
appliance.

:-) You do know that women have smaller feet than men and wear
white at the wedding.










So they can stand closer to the sink and match the appliances.

Sorry, Dee and all other wives.


(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"mikegi" wrote in message
...
In March 2004, our Kenmore Electric Dryer (model #110-66912690),
purchased in 1996, stopped heating. Repairman replaced the
heating element. A few months later the dryer wouldn't work at
all, possibly due to a door switch or some other problem. We
decided to buy an new one rather than have another expensive
repair. We decided to buy the exact same model figuring that the
old one falling apart was just a fluke.

Unfortunately, we were wrong. Our new Kenmore Electric dryer
suddenly stopped heating last week. It spins fine, just no heat
at all. Now, I have to admit that I'm impressed with
Sears/Kenmore's engineers. This new model failed as soon after
the warranty as you could reasonably expect: 4 months. It must
be difficult to manufacture a product with a lifetime tuned so
well to the warranty. But enough conspiracy theory...

I took off the front bottom panel and tested the heating element
with a ohmmeter. It measured around 8-10 ohms. I assume that
means the element isn't broken. I flipped the house breaker,
checked the ducts, no luck. So, it must be some other piece of
the puzzle.

Does anyone have any ideas on easy things to check on this
particular model?

Thanks,
Mike

PS. I lodged a complaint with Sears online on Oct 25 and they
said someone would get back to me in 48 hours. Another
misrepresentation from my friends at Sears. I guess the
thousands of dollars I've spent there on appliances means
nothing. If I'm ever asked, I'll tell people I know to avoid
Sears at all cost.

"DanG" wrote in message
news:qVe9f.5444$UM1.3591@dukeread10...
I'm sorry you are having problems with Sears Kenmore appliances. I have
always had good luck with the Kenmores, they are made by Whirlpool.


Many are, but not all. Frigidaire also makes some for Sears. Probably a
couple of others too.

mikegi wrote:
In March 2004, our Kenmore Electric Dryer (model #110-66912690), purchased
in 1996, stopped heating. Repairman replaced the heating element. A few
months later the dryer wouldn't work at all, possibly due to a door switch
or some other problem. We decided to buy an new one rather than have another
expensive repair. We decided to buy the exact same model figuring that the
old one falling apart was just a fluke.

Unfortunately, we were wrong. Our new Kenmore Electric dryer suddenly
stopped heating last week. It spins fine, just no heat at all. Now, I have
to admit that I'm impressed with Sears/Kenmore's engineers. This new model
failed as soon after the warranty as you could reasonably expect: 4 months.
It must be difficult to manufacture a product with a lifetime tuned so well
to the warranty. But enough conspiracy theory...

I took off the front bottom panel and tested the heating element with a
ohmmeter. It measured around 8-10 ohms. I assume that means the element
isn't broken. I flipped the house breaker, checked the ducts, no luck. So,
it must be some other piece of the puzzle.

Does anyone have any ideas on easy things to check on this particular model?

Thanks,
Mike

PS. I lodged a complaint with Sears online on Oct 25 and they said someone
would get back to me in 48 hours. Another misrepresentation from my friends
at Sears. I guess the thousands of dollars I've spent there on appliances
means nothing. If I'm ever asked, I'll tell people I know to avoid Sears at
all cost.

Hi,

Now, I have
to admit that I'm impressed with Sears/Kenmore's engineers.

There isn't any....Kenmore is made by other manufactures for Sears.
110.######## is a Whirlpool built Kenmore.

Q - My electric dryer runs but will not heat, what could stop my dryer
from heating ?

A - Things that could stop a electric dryer from heating:

- house fuse or breaker ( needs 2! )... - heating element ... - burnt
wire ... - thermostats ... thermal fuse ( not all models )... - motor
heat switch ... - timer ... - selector switch ... - burnt power
cord/plug ...

jeff.
Appliance Repair Aid
http://www.applianceaid.com/

I have been BURNED by SEARS more than once. I will never buy any of
their store brand things again.
Kenmore
Craftsman
Easy Living
and I'm sure others.

I've got a Kenmore electric dryer (110.xxxx model) that we've had for 17
years. During that time I've put in about $50 worth of parts (belts,
seals, rollers) it's running as good as new.
There's a lot of info on the web on dryer repair. As someone else posted,
this model is basically a Whirpool unit; they're pretty common and there's
not a whole lot to them. Sears's parts web site gives some pretty decent
diagrams and part lists, too.

Incidentally, the washer I purchased at the same time is working fine, too.
When they finally quit, Kenmore will be high on my list for a replacement.

- Mike O.


"mikegi" wrote in message
...
In March 2004, our Kenmore Electric Dryer (model #110-66912690), purchased
in 1996, stopped heating. Repairman replaced the heating element. A few
months later the dryer wouldn't work at all, possibly due to a door switch
or some other problem. We decided to buy an new one rather than have
another expensive repair. We decided to buy the exact same model figuring
that the old one falling apart was just a fluke.

Unfortunately, we were wrong. Our new Kenmore Electric dryer suddenly
stopped heating last week. It spins fine, just no heat at all. Now, I have
to admit that I'm impressed with Sears/Kenmore's engineers. This new model
failed as soon after the warranty as you could reasonably expect: 4
months. It must be difficult to manufacture a product with a lifetime
tuned so well to the warranty. But enough conspiracy theory...

I took off the front bottom panel and tested the heating element with a
ohmmeter. It measured around 8-10 ohms. I assume that means the element
isn't broken. I flipped the house breaker, checked the ducts, no luck. So,
it must be some other piece of the puzzle.

Does anyone have any ideas on easy things to check on this particular
model?

Thanks,
Mike

PS. I lodged a complaint with Sears online on Oct 25 and they said someone
would get back to me in 48 hours. Another misrepresentation from my
friends at Sears. I guess the thousands of dollars I've spent there on
appliances means nothing. If I'm ever asked, I'll tell people I know to
avoid Sears at all cost.

I appreciate the posts and suggestions. After reading some of the online
repair websites, I checked the thermostats on the heating element can. The
high temp cut off was an open circuit (#3977394). I bought a replacement kit
at Fox Appliance in Doraville, GA for $25 and installed it yesterday. Dryer
appears to be working again.

The guy at Fox said to replace both the open-circuited part and the
lower-temp thermostat (both pieces were in the $25 kit). He said that the
low-temp part should have cut in before the high-temp part. I assume that
one of two things happened:

1) The low-temp part was defective and the dryer overheated until it
triggered the high-temp cut off thermostat.

2) The high-temp cut off thermostat was defective and triggered at a much
lower temperature than it should have.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? #1 concerns me as it would mean that a
true overheat occured and I need to know why. #2 is a simple manufacturing
defect.

Thanks,
Mike

Thanks for posting a follow up. Wish more did whether solved or not.

On Wed, 2 Nov 2005 09:31:21 -0500, "mikegi"
wrote:

I appreciate the posts and suggestions. After reading some of the online
repair websites, I checked the thermostats on the heating element can. The
high temp cut off was an open circuit (#3977394). I bought a replacement kit
at Fox Appliance in Doraville, GA for $25 and installed it yesterday. Dryer
appears to be working again.

The guy at Fox said to replace both the open-circuited part and the
lower-temp thermostat (both pieces were in the $25 kit). He said that the
low-temp part should have cut in before the high-temp part. I assume that
one of two things happened:

1) The low-temp part was defective and the dryer overheated until it
triggered the high-temp cut off thermostat.

2) The high-temp cut off thermostat was defective and triggered at a much
lower temperature than it should have.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? #1 concerns me as it would mean that a
true overheat occured and I need to know why. #2 is a simple manufacturing
defect.

Thanks,
Mike