I want to move a clothes dryer to the room that once had a oven/stove.
I notice that while both units use 240V the plugs are different - one
cannot just plug the dryer into the socket once used by the oven.

first, can anyone tell me why the sockets and plugs are different if
both applicances use 240V. and second, can I simply replace the oven
power socket with a new dryer-shaped one and carry on - or is there
something else that needs changing (like the breaker??) as well.

I think I read somewhere that ovens and dryers have require difference
amperage.

many thanks

Peter

On 19 Oct 2005 04:48:55 -0700, pstock wrote:
I want to move a clothes dryer to the room that once had a oven/stove.
I notice that while both units use 240V the plugs are different - one
cannot just plug the dryer into the socket once used by the oven.


Nope. You can't, usually.

first, can anyone tell me why the sockets and plugs are different if
both applicances use 240V. and second, can I simply replace the oven
power socket with a new dryer-shaped one and carry on - or is there
something else that needs changing (like the breaker??) as well.

I think I read somewhere that ovens and dryers have require difference
amperage.


Yip.

A range that's plug-and-cord connected will usually (in the US) have
wiring that allows for 50A and a 50A recepticle. Our range specifically
recommends protection with 40A slo-blo, so that's what I installed when
we bought the range.

A dryer has 30A wiring and almost always a 30A fuse or breaker.

Assuming you can find a recepticle and breaker that fits your panel and
has sufficiently large clamps for the existing wire run, you need only
switch the recepticle and breaker. The dryer will Love the larger wire.

"Charles Krug" wrote in message
...
On 19 Oct 2005 04:48:55 -0700, pstock wrote:
I want to move a clothes dryer to the room that once had a oven/stove.
I notice that while both units use 240V the plugs are different - one
cannot just plug the dryer into the socket once used by the oven.


Nope. You can't, usually.

first, can anyone tell me why the sockets and plugs are different if
both applicances use 240V. and second, can I simply replace the oven
power socket with a new dryer-shaped one and carry on - or is there
something else that needs changing (like the breaker??) as well.

I think I read somewhere that ovens and dryers have require difference
amperage.


Yip.

A range that's plug-and-cord connected will usually (in the US) have
wiring that allows for 50A and a 50A recepticle. Our range specifically
recommends protection with 40A slo-blo, so that's what I installed when
we bought the range.

A dryer has 30A wiring and almost always a 30A fuse or breaker.

Assuming you can find a recepticle and breaker that fits your panel and
has sufficiently large clamps for the existing wire run, you need only
switch the recepticle and breaker. The dryer will Love the larger wire.




While it should be possible to buy a cordset for a range and attach it to
the dryer, the problem is that your 30A dryer is now connected to a 50A
fused branch circuit. Significantly more damage can occur to your dryer if
a situation requiring the breaker to trip occurs. You will increase the
possibility for fire or electrocution somewhat.

A proper solution would be to leave the 30A cordset on the dryer and replace
both the receptacle and circuit breaker at the panel with a 30A parts.
Depending on the breaker panel, this might not be very difficult as the
breakers should be the same size and pop one out and pop the other in. An
experienced DIYer can get through it in an hour with $50-$60 in parts. The
old 50A wire is plenty sufficient for 30A service and need not be replaced.

A proper solution would be to leave the 30A cordset on the dryer and replace
both the receptacle and circuit breaker at the panel with a 30A parts.
Depending on the breaker panel, this might not be very difficult as the
breakers should be the same size and pop one out and pop the other in. An
experienced DIYer can get through it in an hour with $50-$60 in parts. The
old 50A wire is plenty sufficient for 30A service and need not be replaced.



You don't say for sure, but it is possible that the dryer is on a 30A
circuit but wired with a 50A plug.

It cost additional dollars for the higher capacity wire and a 50 A
breaker. Most electricians would not logically incure the extra
expense to wire a dryer with a non-code, higher capacity circuit
unless they had some really compelling reason to do so.

Such was the case when I moved into my house (built around 1990-91).
The dryer circuit was properly wired with a 30 amp dual breaker set
and #10 wire. The dryer outlet however, was wired with a 50 Amp
Range Socket.

Apparently, the electricians in this part of the Pacific Northwest
thought they could save money by stocking just one type of 240V plug
(the 50A range socket) and 50A cordsets during that period of time.
The problem was apparently so widespread that Sears made an official
issue of it and would not allow their dryer installers to finish an
installation until the outlet had been replaced by a qualified
electrician.

I was surprised when I bought my dryer at Sears and the salesperson
brought up the issue. Sure enough, I had one of those 50A sockets in
the laundry room. It was easy enough to change out though and thus I
did not have any problems with the installers.

Another issue these days is the 4 wire vs. 3 wire plug and cordset.
I believe the requirement is all new installations need to be 4 wire
(Ground, Neutral, hot, and hot). In older work, the older 3 wire
installations were all grandfathered to be OK (where the neutral
served as a ground). This applies to dryers and ranges so make sure
you get the cordset right.

Beachcomber

excellent information gentlemen. thank you.
one final question - I would like to place this dryer further from the
plug receptacle than the current dryer cord set allows. is there some
reason that the length of a cord set is limited (it appears) to about 6
feet? can/should a competent electrician be able to install a longer
dryer cord which would allow me to position the dryer say 10 feet from
the receptacle?

RBM wrote:
....

I want to plug my dryer (NEMA 14-30P) on the stove receptor (NEMA 14-50R)
so I will.

1.- Replace the dryers cord with a (NEMA 14-50P)
2.- When ever I need to use the dryer I would remove the fuse box. Remove
the 2 40amp (one time) 250v or less fuses that are use for the
Oven/Ranger.
3.- Plug in my dryer.
4.- Insert 2 30amp 250v fuses.

And when I want to cook, I would repeat the steps but with the correct
fuse for the oven.
....

Electrical plug and outlet configurations are designed to assure that the
correct voltage, phase, and amperage is providede for the plugged in
appliance. ...

NO!

The fusing is for the protection of the _wiring_, _NOT_ the appliance.
The appliance is fused internally.

There's nothing inherently different here than plugging in a lamp w/ a
100W light bulb drawing nominally 1A or less into a 20A circuit.

The wiring in question is adequate for the 40A fuses; the dryer will not
draw any more current w/ them in place than it would otherwise.

--

"dpb" wrote in message
...
RBM wrote:
...

I want to plug my dryer (NEMA 14-30P) on the stove receptor (NEMA
14-50R)
so I will.

1.- Replace the dryers cord with a (NEMA 14-50P)
2.- When ever I need to use the dryer I would remove the fuse box.
Remove
the 2 40amp (one time) 250v or less fuses that are use for the
Oven/Ranger.
3.- Plug in my dryer.
4.- Insert 2 30amp 250v fuses.

And when I want to cook, I would repeat the steps but with the correct
fuse for the oven.
...

Electrical plug and outlet configurations are designed to assure that the
correct voltage, phase, and amperage is providede for the plugged in
appliance. ...

NO!

The fusing is for the protection of the _wiring_, _NOT_ the appliance. The
appliance is fused internally.

There's nothing inherently different here than plugging in a lamp w/ a
100W light bulb drawing nominally 1A or less into a 20A circuit.

The wiring in question is adequate for the 40A fuses; the dryer will not
draw any more current w/ them in place than it would otherwise.


I'll repeat myself: "Electrical plug and outlet configurations are designed
to assure that the
correct voltage, phase, and amperage is providede for the plugged in
appliance. " That has nothing to do with the fusing. I personally would
replace the existing 40,50, or 60 amp fuses or circuit breaker with a 30
amp.
--

RBM wrote:
....

I'll repeat myself: "Electrical plug and outlet configurations are designed
to assure that the
correct voltage, phase, and amperage is providede for the plugged in
appliance. " That has nothing to do with the fusing. I personally would
replace the existing 40,50, or 60 amp fuses or circuit breaker with a 30
amp.

Actually, on consideration, I'll agree you're posting doesn't say quite
what I read it as. And, the plug/cordset need to be rated 50A which the
cord for the dryer almost surely isn't.

It'll work; it isn't really the correct solution.

I'd likely bite the bullet and run a dryer circuit meself...

--

"dpb" wrote in message
...
RBM wrote:
...

I want to plug my dryer (NEMA 14-30P) on the stove receptor (NEMA
14-50R)
so I will.

1.- Replace the dryers cord with a (NEMA 14-50P)
2.- When ever I need to use the dryer I would remove the fuse box.
Remove
the 2 40amp (one time) 250v or less fuses that are use for the
Oven/Ranger.
3.- Plug in my dryer.
4.- Insert 2 30amp 250v fuses.

And when I want to cook, I would repeat the steps but with the correct
fuse for the oven.
...

Electrical plug and outlet configurations are designed to assure that the
correct voltage, phase, and amperage is providede for the plugged in
appliance. ...

NO!

The fusing is for the protection of the _wiring_, _NOT_ the appliance. The
appliance is fused internally.

There's nothing inherently different here than plugging in a lamp w/ a
100W light bulb drawing nominally 1A or less into a 20A circuit.

The wiring in question is adequate for the 40A fuses; the dryer will not
draw any more current w/ them in place than it would otherwise.

--Another thing, fuses don't only protect wiring. They also protect
receptacles, and for that reason, a single receptacle cannot be rated less
than the amperage of the circuit it's connected to.

On 10/6/2010 12:37 PM, hmecmba wrote:
responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...lug-42406-.htm
hmecmba wrote:
Hi there, I know this is an old post, but I have the same concern or need
and by reading this I guess I could do the following in my case.

I want to plug my dryer (NEMA 14-30P) on the stove receptor (NEMA 14-50R)
so I will.

1.- Replace the dryers cord with a (NEMA 14-50P)
2.- When ever I need to use the dryer I would remove the fuse box. Remove
the 2 40amp (one time) 250v or less fuses that are use for the Oven/Ranger.
3.- Plug in my dryer.
4.- Insert 2 30amp 250v fuses.

And when I want to cook, I would repeat the steps but with the correct
fuse for the oven.

UNLESS...

The dryer can take the 40amp fuses the current fuse box has for the stove.

Regards, Hernan

the fuse(s) or breaker is to protect the wiring. Has nothing to do with
what you plug into it.


--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On 10/7/2010 12:45 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 20:32:42 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:

the fuse(s) or breaker is to protect the wiring. Has nothing to do with
what you plug into it.


That is not really true. Every appliance is listed based on the branch
circuit it is plugged into. The dryer may have some 14 gauge wiring in
it that was tested to be safe on a 30a breaker but when you put it on
a 40 or 50 you have exceeded the available fault current and voided
the listing.
I have never seen a fuse in a dryer.

given this line of thinking, we could never plug a lamp with an 18ga
cord into a 20a outlet. I stand as stated.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

Steve Barker wrote:
On 10/7/2010 12:45 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 20:32:42 -0500, Steve Barker
wrote:

the fuse(s) or breaker is to protect the wiring. Has nothing to do with
what you plug into it.


That is not really true. Every appliance is listed based on the branch
circuit it is plugged into. The dryer may have some 14 gauge wiring in
it that was tested to be safe on a 30a breaker but when you put it on
a 40 or 50 you have exceeded the available fault current and voided
the listing.
I have never seen a fuse in a dryer.

given this line of thinking, we could never plug a lamp with an 18ga
cord into a 20a outlet. I stand as stated.


Given your line of thinking, we could never plug a lamp with an 18ga
cord into a 15A outlet. The cord is rated somewhere around 10A.

UL lists the lamp, which has a plug that fits into both a 15 and 20A
outlet. The NEC also allows #18 fixture wires on a 20A circuit.

The dryer manufacturer will specify the branch circuit rating to be
used. It is the circuit rating that was used by UL to test the dryer, or
is in the UL standard. The branch circuit protection does provide
protection for the internal dryer circuit. It is a code and safety
violation to use a higher rated branch circuit. I agree with gfretwell.
And with RBM.

Swapping fuses to switch between dryer and stove is not very reliable.
The dryer is likely to wind up with 40A fuses. You also shouldn't have a
50A receptacle on a 30A branch circuit (406.3-A)

There have been 2 sensible fixes, one by RBM and one by gfretwell.

--
bud--

On Oct 7, 2:14*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 07 Oct 2010 07:44:46 -0500, Steve Barker





wrote:
On 10/7/2010 12:45 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 20:32:42 -0500, Steve Barker
*wrote:

the fuse(s) or breaker is to protect the wiring. *Has nothing to do with
what you plug into it.

That is not really true. Every appliance is listed based on the branch
circuit it is plugged into. The dryer may have some 14 gauge wiring in
it that was tested to be safe on a 30a breaker but when you put it on
a 40 or 50 you have exceeded the available fault current and voided
the listing.
I have never seen a fuse in a dryer.

given this line of thinking, we could never plug a lamp with an 18ga
cord into a 20a outlet. *I stand as stated.

Lamps are listed to be connected to a 20a circuit, if you plugged it
into a 30 you voided the listing.

The answer is in 240.5(B)(2)
(2) Fixture Wire. Fixture wire shall be permitted to be tapped to the
branch-circuit conductor of a branch circuit in accordance with the
following: *
(1) * * 20-ampere circuits — 18 AWG, up to 15 m (50 ft) of run length
(2) * * 20-ampere circuits — 16 AWG, up to 30 m (100 ft) of run length
(3) * * 20-ampere circuits — 14 AWG and larger
(4) * * 30-ampere circuits — 14 AWG and larger

The circuit breaker is directly related to wire size. Just re wire the
plug. Carry on as normal.