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[email protected] October 12th 05 09:46 PM

Hardwood floor refinish issue
 
I have an older home, built in the 30's, that has hardwood flooring in
the living room. The floor was previously stained quite dark, and had
big scratches. Additionally, I removed a floor furnace and it left a
large hole in the floor along the wall by the entrance to the kitchen.


I hired a refinisher to come in and do the following: repair/fill the
hole then sand and coat the entire living room floor with polyeurethane
to natural color (that was his suggestion).

He did a great job except for one thing. The wood he used to repair
the hole where the furnace used to be is quite a bit lighter than the
existing wood. As in, the original wood is almost an orangish-red and
the new wood is nearly white.

He indicates that the new wood will yellow with age (or darken), but I
have my doubts. It seems to me that the new wood should more closely
match the existing wood RIGHT FROM DAY ONE. Am I off base here?
Should I pay him the balance for his work, or should I demand that he
replace the new lighter wood with something closer in color? Thanks!


Charles Spitzer October 12th 05 09:50 PM

Hardwood floor refinish issue
 

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have an older home, built in the 30's, that has hardwood flooring in
the living room. The floor was previously stained quite dark, and had
big scratches. Additionally, I removed a floor furnace and it left a
large hole in the floor along the wall by the entrance to the kitchen.


I hired a refinisher to come in and do the following: repair/fill the
hole then sand and coat the entire living room floor with polyeurethane
to natural color (that was his suggestion).

He did a great job except for one thing. The wood he used to repair
the hole where the furnace used to be is quite a bit lighter than the
existing wood. As in, the original wood is almost an orangish-red and
the new wood is nearly white.

He indicates that the new wood will yellow with age (or darken), but I
have my doubts. It seems to me that the new wood should more closely
match the existing wood RIGHT FROM DAY ONE. Am I off base here?
Should I pay him the balance for his work, or should I demand that he
replace the new lighter wood with something closer in color? Thanks!


there are a lot of woods that age due to sunlight. if he made it match with
stain, then it would eventually look out of place when the rest of the floor
changed, and that area didn't. it would be hard, but not impossible, to find
wood to match the current color unless he can find some he could take out of
a closet, for example.



RicodJour October 12th 05 10:06 PM

Hardwood floor refinish issue
 
wrote:
I have an older home, built in the 30's, that has hardwood flooring in
the living room. The floor was previously stained quite dark, and had
big scratches. Additionally, I removed a floor furnace and it left a
large hole in the floor along the wall by the entrance to the kitchen.

I hired a refinisher to come in and do the following: repair/fill the
hole then sand and coat the entire living room floor with polyeurethane
to natural color (that was his suggestion).

He did a great job except for one thing. The wood he used to repair
the hole where the furnace used to be is quite a bit lighter than the
existing wood. As in, the original wood is almost an orangish-red and
the new wood is nearly white.

He indicates that the new wood will yellow with age (or darken), but I
have my doubts. It seems to me that the new wood should more closely
match the existing wood RIGHT FROM DAY ONE. Am I off base here?
Should I pay him the balance for his work, or should I demand that he
replace the new lighter wood with something closer in color? Thanks!


You've run into one of the compromises that frequently are encountered
in remodeling and refinishing work. If you have him stain the wood to
match the existing, and it does in fact darken with age, it will look
worse as time goes by instead of better. Many woods do darken with
exposure to sunlight, but you didn't mention what hardwood it is so
it's tough to tell.

It's also possible that the guy used a different species of the
hardwood - red vs. white oak is an example. They will never look the
same unless stained.

R


dadiOH October 12th 05 11:49 PM

Hardwood floor refinish issue
 
wrote:
I have an older home, built in the 30's, that has hardwood flooring in
the living room. The floor was previously stained quite dark, and had
big scratches. Additionally, I removed a floor furnace and it left a
large hole in the floor along the wall by the entrance to the kitchen.


I hired a refinisher to come in and do the following: repair/fill the
hole then sand and coat the entire living room floor with
polyeurethane to natural color (that was his suggestion).

He did a great job except for one thing. The wood he used to repair
the hole where the furnace used to be is quite a bit lighter than the
existing wood. As in, the original wood is almost an orangish-red
and the new wood is nearly white.

He indicates that the new wood will yellow with age (or darken), but I
have my doubts. It seems to me that the new wood should more closely
match the existing wood RIGHT FROM DAY ONE. Am I off base here?
Should I pay him the balance for his work, or should I demand that he
replace the new lighter wood with something closer in color? Thanks!


It is true that most woods darken after a few months exposure to light.
However, the old wood was stained and the stain was sanded off. That
means any darkening due to sunlight was also sanded off and both it and
the new wood are raw. They should be similar in color.


--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at
http://mysite.verizon.net/xico



Pop October 13th 05 01:50 AM

Hardwood floor refinish issue
 

"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:Ppg3f.44066$HM1.31352@trnddc04...
: wrote:
: I have an older home, built in the 30's, that has hardwood
flooring in
: the living room. The floor was previously stained quite
dark, and had
: big scratches. Additionally, I removed a floor furnace and
it left a
: large hole in the floor along the wall by the entrance to the
kitchen.
:
:
: I hired a refinisher to come in and do the following:
repair/fill the
: hole then sand and coat the entire living room floor with
: polyeurethane to natural color (that was his suggestion).
:
: He did a great job except for one thing. The wood he used
to repair
: the hole where the furnace used to be is quite a bit lighter
than the
: existing wood. As in, the original wood is almost an
orangish-red
: and the new wood is nearly white.
:
: He indicates that the new wood will yellow with age (or
darken), but I
: have my doubts. It seems to me that the new wood should more
closely
: match the existing wood RIGHT FROM DAY ONE. Am I off base
here?
: Should I pay him the balance for his work, or should I demand
that he
: replace the new lighter wood with something closer in color?
Thanks!
:
: It is true that most woods darken after a few months exposure
to light.
: However, the old wood was stained and the stain was sanded off.
That
: means any darkening due to sunlight was also sanded off and
both it and
: the new wood are raw. They should be similar in color.
:
:
: --
: dadiOH
: ____________________________
:
: dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
: ...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
: LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
: Get it at
http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
:
:
Uhh, no! It doesn't work that way. Sound logical, but it's not
the way it works.



Edwin Pawlowski October 13th 05 03:45 AM

Hardwood floor refinish issue
 
: wrote:

: . It seems to me that the new wood should more
closely
: match the existing wood RIGHT FROM DAY ONE. Am I off base
here?
: Should I pay him the balance for his work, or should I demand
that he
: replace the new lighter wood with something closer in color?
Thanks!


And in a few months you'll bitch that it is too dark. Wood darkens with
exposure to UV. Some will change in days, others take longer. Cherry is one
of the fastest to react. While the surface changes first you do get some
penetration, especially over the number of years the house has been there.

If you don't believe me, go to any woodworking shop and ask to see a board
planed. You'll be amazed at the color difference when you take off the top
1/16th or so. Beside, the floor guy did not make the wood, it comes from
trees. The most common way he can change the color is to stain it. When he
does that, the color will never be the same years from now if the rest of
the floor is unstained. .

You can also darken oak with ammonia fumes to achieve the mission oak or
Stickly style. Other woods react greatly to sodium hydroxide (lye) and can
be ages in minutes.



m Ransley October 13th 05 03:57 AM

Hardwood floor refinish issue
 
It might be the floor is red oak the patch is white Oak. Sanding removed
the old sun oxidized layer of wood, but it is still aged darker. He
should have stained the repair to match. I bet it never will blend in by
itself, a hacks excuse.


dadiOH October 13th 05 01:24 PM

Hardwood floor refinish issue
 
Pop wrote:
"dadiOH" wrote in message
news:Ppg3f.44066$HM1.31352@trnddc04...
wrote:


He indicates that the new wood will yellow with age (or darken),
but I have my doubts. It seems to me that the new wood should more
closely match the existing wood RIGHT FROM DAY ONE. Am I off base
here? Should I pay him the balance for his work, or should I demand
that he replace the new lighter wood with something closer in
color? Thanks!


It is true that most woods darken after a few months exposure to
light. However, the old wood was stained and the stain was sanded
off. That means any darkening due to sunlight was also sanded off
and both it and the new wood are raw. They should be similar in
color.


Uhh, no! It doesn't work that way. Sound logical, but it's not
the way it works.


So how *does* it work?

I have a piece of cherry on a jig in my shop. It was oiled and is at
least 15 years old. Cherry is very photo sensitive and it is a deep,
dark red now. A light sanding (with 150 grit yet!) gets it back to the
original brown heart wood color pre-oil. If the OP's floor was sanded
sufficiently to remove the dark stain, color changes due to light are
gone too.

I repeat: if the wood color in the patched area doesn't match the rest
of the floor now it never will. My best guess is that the two are
different oak species; likely, original red oak, new white oak.


--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at
http://mysite.verizon.net/xico



[email protected] October 13th 05 01:42 PM

Hardwood floor refinish issue
 
I'm with dadiOH and Ransley on this one. Doing a thorough sanding job
on the existing flooring should have brought it back to it's underlying
color. At that point, the old and new wood should match pretty close,
or they never will. The old "It will match after it ages" is almost
always the sign of a hack.

To do this right requires years of experience and skill, which is why
you want a specialist. He either has to get wood that is very close,
or if that's not possible, know how to stain something with a grain
that is close so that it will match.

If I were faced with this problem, I would insist that the contractor
take a piece of the old wood and come back and show me that piece
together with a new piece, both of which have been refinished. You
will of course have to pay extra for this, but at least you won't wind
up with a mess.


m Ransley October 13th 05 02:35 PM

Hardwood floor re finish issue
 
The only real solution is to strip the patch by using a scraper and
stain to match . You can go to the expense to replace it with red oak if
that is what you have but staining will still be likely necessary making
replacement unnecessary. I have matched stain many times, new oak to old
oak, pine to oaks to walnut etc etc. It will take someone with multiple
stain colors, experience and patience. Once the stain has cured a final
color check can be done by wetting the wood with say thinner, standing
back and compare results. Finish the patch by brushing in an equal
amount of coats you have now on the floor then recoat the entire floor.

It is time consuming to match stain, inbetween dry times and color
changes it would take me maybe 3-5 trips to stain it, and 3-5 to finish
it. or 1-2 weeks of an hour a day, then final coating, not cheap or
easy, but it is your house and should be done right.

A pro would have known this before hand, and more then I have
mentioned.

You contracted for a match, that is what I would pay for. You should
call out a real experienced pro to see it, as we can`t, someone who
knows how to do a close color match.


[email protected] October 13th 05 03:05 PM

Hardwood floor re finish issue
 
"It is time consuming to match stain, inbetween dry times and color
changes it would take me maybe 3-5 trips to stain it, and 3-5 to finish

it. or 1-2 weeks of an hour a day, then final coating, not cheap or
easy, but it is your house and should be done right."

And a good reason to use my suggestion of having the contractor take a
piece of old wood as a sample and come back when he has a piece of new
and the old finished so you can see how they will look. Now that I
think about this more, it would seem that this is also easier for the
contractor. Instead of fooling around trying to match it on site, it
would seem a lot easier for him to take a sample and experiment at shop
until he has it right. Plus, if I were doing this for a customer,
that's how I would do it so there is agreement upfront as to how it
will look. You can never make this perfect and what' satisfactory to
one person will not be to someone else. I'd rather avoid surprises and
unhappy customers after the work is done.


Ken October 13th 05 09:53 PM

Hardwood floor refinish issue
 

wrote:
I have an older home, built in the 30's, that has hardwood flooring in
the living room. The floor was previously stained quite dark, and had
big scratches. Additionally, I removed a floor furnace and it left a
large hole in the floor along the wall by the entrance to the kitchen.


I hired a refinisher to come in and do the following: repair/fill the
hole then sand and coat the entire living room floor with polyeurethane
to natural color (that was his suggestion).

He did a great job except for one thing. The wood he used to repair
the hole where the furnace used to be is quite a bit lighter than the
existing wood. As in, the original wood is almost an orangish-red and
the new wood is nearly white.

He indicates that the new wood will yellow with age (or darken), but I
have my doubts. It seems to me that the new wood should more closely
match the existing wood RIGHT FROM DAY ONE. Am I off base here?
Should I pay him the balance for his work, or should I demand that he
replace the new lighter wood with something closer in color? Thanks!


Well, I'll chime in with my personal experience. Our house was built
in the 1920's, and has the original oak floor. Before refinishing, a
few spots had to be repaired with new wood. Rather than put the new
wood in in highly noticeable spots, old wood flooring was taken from
the back of a closet to do the repairs in a hallway, and new wood was
put in to replace the "stolen" wood from the back of the closet. Even
after sanding (rather deeply I might add to take out deep scratches),
the old wood was still darker than the new wood. I assume this is
because the sunlight darkening the wood goes rather deep.

We had a similar situation in our old house too. A couple strips of
oak flooring needed to be replaced, and the floor guy brought a few
strips of old wood that he had taken out of another house on another
job, because he said that new wood would never match the existing old
wood floor.

So In your case, I would say do one of two things:
1.) Just wait (perhaps years) until the lighter wood darkens.
2.) See if you have a place where you can take up enough of the old
floor somewhere, and put that in place of the existing patch, and then
of course refinsh that section of floor again.

Ken



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