How to remove old iron pipe?
 

I need to remove some 2" diameter iron pipe from an old hot water heat
system in my house in order to move a radiator. These pipes haven't been
touched in 80 years and the fittings are proving very difficult to remove.
Any suggestions on how to do this beyond getting a bigger pipe wrench?

Thanks,
Tom

Angle grinder to the rescue.
Once you use it, you'll never ask again.
Get good discs, though.

Tom wrote:

I need to remove some 2" diameter iron pipe from an old hot water
heat system in my house in order to move a radiator. These pipes
haven't been touched in 80 years and the fittings are proving very
difficult to remove. Any suggestions on how to do this beyond getting
a bigger pipe wrench?

Thanks,
Tom

Tom wrote:

I need to remove some 2" diameter iron pipe from an old hot water heat
system in my house in order to move a radiator. These pipes haven't been
touched in 80 years and the fittings are proving very difficult to remove.
Any suggestions on how to do this beyond getting a bigger pipe wrench?

A Sawzall for the pipe and a sledgehammer for the fittings (Ts, etc.)

Nick

On Mon, 26 Sep 2005 22:14:15 -0500, "Tom"
wrote:

I need to remove some 2" diameter iron pipe from an old hot water heat
system in my house in order to move a radiator. These pipes haven't been
touched in 80 years and the fittings are proving very difficult to remove.
Any suggestions on how to do this beyond getting a bigger pipe wrench?

Thanks,
Tom


Hammering on the joints will loosen them. Same principle as a stuck
jar lid.

How much hammering to loosen them?
Probably about half as long as you've already spent trying to get
them loose. - but at least 10 minutes of pounding should do it.

"Michael Baugh" wrote in message
...

Angle grinder to the rescue.
Once you use it, you'll never ask again.
Get good discs, though.


a Metabo angle grinder & thin cut off wheels. use a face shield & gloves..
you'll go through the pipe like butter.. each cut will only take a few
minutes.

Sawzall. Either that, or a big pipe cutter. Sawzall makes most sense. Extra
sturdy blades.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"Tom" wrote in message
. ..
I need to remove some 2" diameter iron pipe from an old hot water heat
system in my house in order to move a radiator. These pipes haven't been
touched in 80 years and the fittings are proving very difficult to remove.
Any suggestions on how to do this beyond getting a bigger pipe wrench?

Thanks,
Tom

We used a compound pipe wrench for years to loosen stuck pipes. It has
a large mechanical advantage, and you don't destroy the pipes or
fittings. A 90 degree pull on that wrench only turns the pipe about
1/10 as much.

If the fittings are cast iron, Use two 3# hammers to break the
fittings. Use one to pound and the other as a backup. That won't work
well for wrot fittings though. If you don't use the back up hammer,
you may cause a leak at another joint. Use gloves and eye protection
so you don't get hurt. One guy holds the back up hammer and another
pounds the fitting from the other side.

Of course there is always a sawzall. But then you have to thread the
pipe for your new connection and that takes a very square cut.

Stretch

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Sawzall. Either that, or a big pipe cutter. Sawzall makes most sense. Extra
sturdy blades.

Or simply break the fittings w/ hand sledge...

Depending on size and layout, cutting pipe into shorter lengths makes
handling a lot simpler so there's another reason for the Sawzall.

Never heard of such a device. got a URL so I can see one online? Could be
usefull.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"Stretch" wrote in message
oups.com...
We used a compound pipe wrench for years to loosen stuck pipes. It has
a large mechanical advantage, and you don't destroy the pipes or
fittings. A 90 degree pull on that wrench only turns the pipe about
1/10 as much.

If the fittings are cast iron, Use two 3# hammers to break the
fittings. Use one to pound and the other as a backup. That won't work
well for wrot fittings though. If you don't use the back up hammer,
you may cause a leak at another joint. Use gloves and eye protection
so you don't get hurt. One guy holds the back up hammer and another
pounds the fitting from the other side.

Of course there is always a sawzall. But then you have to thread the
pipe for your new connection and that takes a very square cut.

Stretch

Chris,

Ridgid Tool Company makes them. Not cheap but lots of
plumber/pipefitters should have them.

Stretch

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Never heard of such a device. got a URL so I can see one online? Could be
usefull.


here, you good for nothing turd.

http://www.ridgid.com/CatalogDocs/compoundleverage.jpg