Drywall taping help
 

"G Hensley" wrote in message
...
Amun wrote:



There is an old argument about "wetting" the tape, but it's always
worked
for me.


AMUN



You're an insufferable ass...


.......And you're plonked again.

AMUN

Airkings wrote:
I'm doing my first drywall taping, and I need some advice. I did a "test
strip" on one seam, using the perforated tape which the instructions say to
put down on the dry seam, then cover with a coat of mud, pushing the mud
through the perforations.

Now I have a couple of spots with bubbles in the tape, and there is a
"bubble" down the one entire edge of the tape. In other words, this isn't
going so well.

Two questions:

1. How do I fix what I've done so far?

2. How do I avoid this the next time?

Thanks!

I've had better luck with the plain old paper tape. The perforated
stuff is usually thicker. OK for where the factory edges meet because
it's buried in the bevel, but when you get a cut edge or a corner, it's
harder to feather it out.

Fixing it??? Rip it out (GENTLY) and start over. It's good that you
have a practice joint.

Brad

People seem to have the fiberglass tape... It works VERY WELL for me.

Just take up the entire room and start going to town on covering it up.
two coats and a skim coat and you're done.

I tried paper tape, it worked ok. I guess if you use it day in day out
you get used
to it, The fiberglass take was just a no brainer for the FYI guy.
Looks good to this day.

Tom

Airkings wrote:
I'm doing my first drywall taping, and I need some advice. I did a "test
strip" on one seam, using the perforated tape which the instructions say to
put down on the dry seam, then cover with a coat of mud, pushing the mud
through the perforations.

Now I have a couple of spots with bubbles in the tape, and there is a
"bubble" down the one entire edge of the tape. In other words, this isn't
going so well.

Two questions:

1. How do I fix what I've done so far?

2. How do I avoid this the next time?

Thanks!

--
x-no-archive: yes

Dave

When first learning, I used a 4" paint roller to set the tape into the
mud & push out the bubbles, followed by a 6" putty knife to remove the
excess mud. It worked pretty well for me.

Bob S.