I have a fluourescent lamp that has a button that I have to hold down
for a few seconds for the light to turn on. The switch is broke.
Anyone know where I could find such a specialty switch? I searched
around but no luck.

"User Example" wrote in message
. ..
I have a fluourescent lamp that has a button that I have to hold down
for a few seconds for the light to turn on. The switch is broke.
Anyone know where I could find such a specialty switch? I searched
around but no luck.


It is probably a NO momentary closed switch. Any Radio Shack or electronics
store would have one. Searched where?

SQLit wrote:

"User Example" wrote in message
. ..

I have a fluourescent lamp that has a button that I have to hold down
for a few seconds for the light to turn on. The switch is broke.
Anyone know where I could find such a specialty switch? I searched
around but no luck.



It is probably a NO momentary closed switch. Any Radio Shack or electronics
store would have one. Searched where?



No, it's not that easy. I think Joseph was correct about the switch
type. The OP didn't say it, but likely that lamp has a second (usually
black) button you push to turn it off. The first (usually red) button
closed a toggling switch to apply power to the lamp, but when held down
a second momentary contact closed the filament circuit just like a
"starter" did. After a couple of seconds the filaments were hot and when
you released the button an inductive spike from the ballast started the
flourescent's arc.

Pushing the second button toggled the switch off. Sometimes there was no
second button 'cause the first button had an "alternate on-off" switch
action in addition to the momentary contact.

If the OP really loves that old lamp he could replace the "broke" switch
with a slide or toggle on-off switch plus a NO momentary closed
pushbutton switch. It'd take two separate actions to light the lamp, but
only one to shut it off. That's providing the OP knows what to look for
and can trace out the wiring so he can figure out how to connect the two
switches properly.

That's probably what I'd do if that old lamp held memories for me and I
was going to be the only person using it. :-)

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

"User Example" wrote in message
. ..

I have a fluourescent lamp that has a button that I have to hold down
for a few seconds for the light to turn on. The switch is broke.
Anyone know where I could find such a specialty switch? I searched
around but no luck.


It is probably a NO momentary closed switch. Any Radio Shack or
electronics
store would have one. Searched where?


No, it's not that easy. I think Joseph was correct about the switch
type. The OP didn't say it, but likely that lamp has a second (usually
black) button you push to turn it off. The first (usually red) button
closed a toggling switch to apply power to the lamp, but when held down
a second momentary contact closed the filament circuit just like a
"starter" did. After a couple of seconds the filaments were hot and when
you released the button an inductive spike from the ballast started the
flourescent's arc.

Pushing the second button toggled the switch off. Sometimes there was no
second button 'cause the first button had an "alternate on-off" switch
action in addition to the momentary contact.

If the OP really loves that old lamp he could replace the "broke" switch
with a slide or toggle on-off switch plus a NO momentary closed
pushbutton switch. It'd take two separate actions to light the lamp, but
only one to shut it off. That's providing the OP knows what to look for
and can trace out the wiring so he can figure out how to connect the two
switches properly.

That's probably what I'd do if that old lamp held memories for me and I
was going to be the only person using it. :-)


It is actually one of those magnifying glass lamps like on workbench
tables. It's a nice one so I want to fix the lamp if I can. I took the
broken switch apart to see what is wrong and how it works. The button
had a piece broken off and it is missing so I can't fix it.

The switch similar to described above. There are two parts actually.
One part turns on or off each time the button is pressed via a
ratcheting spinner. The 2nd part turns on only momentarily when the
switch is pressed.

I have seen 3 position toggle switches with the 3rd position spring
loaded. If I could find one of those I could make it work. I tried
looking in digi-key but didnt see one, though.

"User Example" wrote in message
It is actually one of those magnifying glass lamps like on workbench
tables. It's a nice one so I want to fix the lamp if I can. I took the
broken switch apart to see what is wrong and how it works. The button had
a piece broken off and it is missing so I can't fix it.


It may be worth buying a cheap fixture for undercounter lighting and taking
the switch out. They sell for less than $10.

User Example wrote:

"User Example" wrote in message
. ..

I have a fluourescent lamp that has a button that I have to hold down
for a few seconds for the light to turn on. The switch is broke.
Anyone know where I could find such a specialty switch? I searched
around but no luck.



It is probably a NO momentary closed switch. Any Radio Shack or
electronics
store would have one. Searched where?


No, it's not that easy. I think Joseph was correct about the switch
type. The OP didn't say it, but likely that lamp has a second (usually
black) button you push to turn it off. The first (usually red) button
closed a toggling switch to apply power to the lamp, but when held
down a second momentary contact closed the filament circuit just like
a "starter" did. After a couple of seconds the filaments were hot and
when you released the button an inductive spike from the ballast
started the flourescent's arc.

Pushing the second button toggled the switch off. Sometimes there was
no second button 'cause the first button had an "alternate on-off"
switch action in addition to the momentary contact.

If the OP really loves that old lamp he could replace the "broke"
switch with a slide or toggle on-off switch plus a NO momentary closed
pushbutton switch. It'd take two separate actions to light the lamp,
but only one to shut it off. That's providing the OP knows what to
look for and can trace out the wiring so he can figure out how to
connect the two switches properly.

That's probably what I'd do if that old lamp held memories for me and
I was going to be the only person using it. :-)


It is actually one of those magnifying glass lamps like on workbench
tables. It's a nice one so I want to fix the lamp if I can. I took the
broken switch apart to see what is wrong and how it works. The button
had a piece broken off and it is missing so I can't fix it.

The switch similar to described above. There are two parts actually.
One part turns on or off each time the button is pressed via a
ratcheting spinner. The 2nd part turns on only momentarily when the
switch is pressed.

I have seen 3 position toggle switches with the 3rd position spring
loaded. If I could find one of those I could make it work. I tried
looking in digi-key but didnt see one, though.

Yes, but the ones like that I've seen are all "center off" types which
make a momentary contact in one direction away from center and will
toggle and stay in the opposite direction. That won't do it for you, you
need to connect power to the lamp and then "play starter" by making and
breaking the filament circuit.

How about replacing the present switch with one of the commonly
available "twist" lamp switches and drill another hole to mount a NO
momenttary contact push button switch to start the lamp with?

STOP THE PRESSES! Can you fit this one in?

http://www.egaynor.com/edwin_gaynor_lampholders/666.htm

It has the switching characteristics you need, and is the "two button"
style I was bloviating about in my previous post. You'd need the "one
lamp" model.

HTH,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

Edwin Pawlowski wrote:
"User Example" wrote in message

It is actually one of those magnifying glass lamps like on workbench
tables. It's a nice one so I want to fix the lamp if I can. I took the
broken switch apart to see what is wrong and how it works. The button had
a piece broken off and it is missing so I can't fix it.



It may be worth buying a cheap fixture for undercounter lighting and taking
the switch out. They sell for less than $10.



Ah, but I betcha those will use a regular on-off switch and a cheapo
glass bulb bimetal neon starter and paralleled capacitor (without a can)
wired right in.

I fixed GE undercounter light two weeks ago and it used one of those
wired in starters. (Problem was just a thermal fuse glued to the ballast
which had died of old age. wouldja believe I had a perfect match
replacement thermal fuse in my "hell box"?

Come to think of it, if he could fit in one of those wire-in starters he
could solve his problem with a simple on-off switch. Yeah, he could take
the starter out of the $10 light, along with the switch, couldn't he.

Have we overkilled this one yet?

Jeff
--
Jeffry Wisnia

(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)

"Truth exists; only falsehood has to be invented."

In article , Jeff Wisnia wrote:
SQLit wrote:

"User Example" wrote in message
. ..

I have a fluourescent lamp that has a button that I have to hold down
for a few seconds for the light to turn on. The switch is broke.
Anyone know where I could find such a specialty switch? I searched
around but no luck.

It is probably a NO momentary closed switch. Any Radio Shack or electronics
store would have one. Searched where?

No, it's not that easy. I think Joseph was correct about the switch
type. The OP didn't say it, but likely that lamp has a second (usually
black) button you push to turn it off. The first (usually red) button
closed a toggling switch to apply power to the lamp, but when held down
a second momentary contact closed the filament circuit just like a
"starter" did. After a couple of seconds the filaments were hot and when
you released the button an inductive spike from the ballast started the
flourescent's arc.

Pushing the second button toggled the switch off. Sometimes there was no
second button 'cause the first button had an "alternate on-off" switch
action in addition to the momentary contact.

If the OP really loves that old lamp he could replace the "broke" switch
with a slide or toggle on-off switch plus a NO momentary closed
pushbutton switch. It'd take two separate actions to light the lamp, but
only one to shut it off. That's providing the OP knows what to look for
and can trace out the wiring so he can figure out how to connect the two
switches properly.

That's probably what I'd do if that old lamp held memories for me and I
was going to be the only person using it. :-)

Jeffry Wisnia

I am familiar with this setup. The red pushbutton is a NO type that you
push to get current to flow through the filaments of the fluorescent bulb,
and in the next more modern step of fixture design is replaced by a
starter. The black pushbutton is a NC type, and is replaced by a more
usual on/off switch once the red pushbutton is replaced by a starter.

If you want to replace pushbuttons with pushbuttons, it's not easy. You
need pushbuttons rated for 125V and at least .35 amp, and also with some
extra ability to handle inductive loads - maybe having a horsepower rating
for motors that draw similar voltage and current - GOOD LUCK!!!

I think you are better off, should you have any sentimental or emotional
attachment to this fixture, to hack it into one with a starter and an
on-off switch. This typically requires trashpicking or buying another
fixture that has a starter, which is the easiest way in the USA to get a
starter socket. Then, remove or disconnect the original pushbuttons and
hack in an on-off switch and the starter socket.

Now for wiring diagrams of basic / historic fluorescent fixtures:

This is in Sam Goldwasser's "Repairfaq" documents, and I have an
adequately current one for this purpose on fluorescent lamps at:

http://www.misty.com/~don/f-lamp.html

- Don Klipstein )

Don Klipstein wrote:
In article , Jeff Wisnia wrote:

SQLit wrote:


"User Example" wrote in message
om...


I have a fluourescent lamp that has a button that I have to hold down
for a few seconds for the light to turn on. The switch is broke.
Anyone know where I could find such a specialty switch? I searched
around but no luck.

It is probably a NO momentary closed switch. Any Radio Shack or electronics
store would have one. Searched where?

No, it's not that easy. I think Joseph was correct about the switch
type. The OP didn't say it, but likely that lamp has a second (usually
black) button you push to turn it off. The first (usually red) button
closed a toggling switch to apply power to the lamp, but when held down
a second momentary contact closed the filament circuit just like a
"starter" did. After a couple of seconds the filaments were hot and when
you released the button an inductive spike from the ballast started the
flourescent's arc.

Pushing the second button toggled the switch off. Sometimes there was no
second button 'cause the first button had an "alternate on-off" switch
action in addition to the momentary contact.

If the OP really loves that old lamp he could replace the "broke" switch
with a slide or toggle on-off switch plus a NO momentary closed
pushbutton switch. It'd take two separate actions to light the lamp, but
only one to shut it off. That's providing the OP knows what to look for
and can trace out the wiring so he can figure out how to connect the two
switches properly.

That's probably what I'd do if that old lamp held memories for me and I
was going to be the only person using it. :-)

Jeffry Wisnia


I am familiar with this setup. The red pushbutton is a NO type that you
push to get current to flow through the filaments of the fluorescent bulb,
and in the next more modern step of fixture design is replaced by a
starter. The black pushbutton is a NC type, and is replaced by a more
usual on/off switch once the red pushbutton is replaced by a starter.

If you want to replace pushbuttons with pushbuttons, it's not easy. You
need pushbuttons rated for 125V and at least .35 amp, and also with some
extra ability to handle inductive loads - maybe having a horsepower rating
for motors that draw similar voltage and current - GOOD LUCK!!!

I think you are better off, should you have any sentimental or emotional
attachment to this fixture, to hack it into one with a starter and an
on-off switch. This typically requires trashpicking or buying another
fixture that has a starter, which is the easiest way in the USA to get a
starter socket. Then, remove or disconnect the original pushbuttons and
hack in an on-off switch and the starter socket.

Now for wiring diagrams of basic / historic fluorescent fixtures:

This is in Sam Goldwasser's "Repairfaq" documents, and I have an
adequately current one for this purpose on fluorescent lamps at:

http://www.misty.com/~don/f-lamp.html

- Don Klipstein )

Thanks everyone for the ideas. They are all good. I am not sure what I
will do, though. There isn't any spare room in the lamp to add a
starter and it would be hard to even add an extra switch in there. I'll
have to do some ciphering and figure out what I want to do. The link
you provided will be helpful.

Check out Ace Hardware. They usually
have, behind the service counter, a box
of frequently used switches. I was
surprised at the unusual stuff available.

User Example wrote:
Don Klipstein wrote:

In article , Jeff Wisnia wrote:

SQLit wrote:


"User Example" wrote in message
. ..


I have a fluourescent lamp that has a button that I have to hold down
for a few seconds for the light to turn on. The switch is broke.
Anyone know where I could find such a specialty switch? I searched
around but no luck.


It is probably a NO momentary closed switch. Any Radio Shack or
electronics
store would have one. Searched where?


No, it's not that easy. I think Joseph was correct about the switch
type. The OP didn't say it, but likely that lamp has a second
(usually black) button you push to turn it off. The first (usually
red) button closed a toggling switch to apply power to the lamp, but
when held down a second momentary contact closed the filament circuit
just like a "starter" did. After a couple of seconds the filaments
were hot and when you released the button an inductive spike from the
ballast started the flourescent's arc.

Pushing the second button toggled the switch off. Sometimes there was
no second button 'cause the first button had an "alternate on-off"
switch action in addition to the momentary contact.

If the OP really loves that old lamp he could replace the "broke"
switch with a slide or toggle on-off switch plus a NO momentary
closed pushbutton switch. It'd take two separate actions to light the
lamp, but only one to shut it off. That's providing the OP knows what
to look for and can trace out the wiring so he can figure out how to
connect the two switches properly.

That's probably what I'd do if that old lamp held memories for me and
I was going to be the only person using it. :-)

Jeffry Wisnia



I am familiar with this setup. The red pushbutton is a NO type that
you push to get current to flow through the filaments of the
fluorescent bulb, and in the next more modern step of fixture design
is replaced by a starter. The black pushbutton is a NC type, and is
replaced by a more usual on/off switch once the red pushbutton is
replaced by a starter.

If you want to replace pushbuttons with pushbuttons, it's not easy.
You need pushbuttons rated for 125V and at least .35 amp, and also
with some extra ability to handle inductive loads - maybe having a
horsepower rating for motors that draw similar voltage and current -
GOOD LUCK!!!

I think you are better off, should you have any sentimental or
emotional
attachment to this fixture, to hack it into one with a starter and an
on-off switch. This typically requires trashpicking or buying another
fixture that has a starter, which is the easiest way in the USA to get a
starter socket. Then, remove or disconnect the original pushbuttons
and hack in an on-off switch and the starter socket.

Now for wiring diagrams of basic / historic fluorescent fixtures:

This is in Sam Goldwasser's "Repairfaq" documents, and I have an
adequately current one for this purpose on fluorescent lamps at:

http://www.misty.com/~don/f-lamp.html

- Don Klipstein )


Thanks everyone for the ideas. They are all good. I am not sure what I
will do, though. There isn't any spare room in the lamp to add a
starter and it would be hard to even add an extra switch in there. I'll
have to do some ciphering and figure out what I want to do. The link
you provided will be helpful.

"User Example" wrote in message
. ..
I have a fluourescent lamp that has a button that I have to hold down
for a few seconds for the light to turn on. The switch is broke.
Anyone know where I could find such a specialty switch? I searched
around but no luck.

You could try the manufacturer, as some of those switches can be proprietary
to the light, and hard to come by as aftermarket items.
But don't be surprised if the new switch with shipping costs more than
replacing the whole light.


AMUN

replying to User Example, Larry wrote:
user wrote:

It is actually one of those magnifying glass lamps like on workbench
tables. It's a nice one so I want to fix the lamp if I can. I took the
broken switch apart to see what is wrong and how it works. The button
had a piece broken off and it is missing so I can't fix it.
The switch similar to described above. There are two parts actually.
One part turns on or off each time the button is pressed via a
ratcheting spinner. The 2nd part turns on only momentarily when the
switch is pressed.
I have seen 3 position toggle switches with the 3rd position spring
loaded. If I could find one of those I could make it work. I tried
looking in digi-key but didnt see one, though.


Hi, I have the same kind of lamp with the same problem. It has a 22w
circline round fluorescent bulb. I finally found a switch after having the
lamp tore apart for a long time and now I can't remember how to wire it
back up. My switch has 4 contacts, socket has 2 blk and 2 white wires and
of course 1 white and 1 black feed. Do you have any idea where I can find
a wiring diagram for this setup. Thanks, Larry

--

On 12/31/2014 12:44 AM, Larry wrote:
replying to User Example, Larry wrote:
user wrote:

It is actually one of those magnifying glass lamps like on workbench
tables. It's a nice one so I want to fix the lamp if I can. I took
the broken switch apart to see what is wrong and how it works. The
button had a piece broken off and it is missing so I can't fix it.
The switch similar to described above. There are two parts actually.
One part turns on or off each time the button is pressed via a
ratcheting spinner. The 2nd part turns on only momentarily when the
switch is pressed.
I have seen 3 position toggle switches with the 3rd position spring
loaded. If I could find one of those I could make it work. I tried
looking in digi-key but didnt see one, though.


Hi, I have the same kind of lamp with the same problem. It has a 22w
circline round fluorescent bulb. I finally found a switch after having the
lamp tore apart for a long time and now I can't remember how to wire it
back up. My switch has 4 contacts, socket has 2 blk and 2 white wires and
of course 1 white and 1 black feed. Do you have any idea where I can find
a wiring diagram for this setup. Thanks, Larry

Yes, I too have one of those magnifiers and hate that kind of switch.
But you just reminded me, I have 3 electronic ballasts which could be
used for this lamp ... no starting needed and the ballast, actually a
switching high voltage power supply, ionizes the gasses without
starting. I'll have to see if I can retrofit one into the magnifier.

---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
http://www.avast.com

replying to Amun, Randy wrote:
spamblocker wrote:

"User Example" wrote in message
. ..
You could try the manufacturer, as some of those switches can be
proprietary
to the light, and hard to come by as aftermarket items.
But don't be surprised if the new switch with shipping costs more than
replacing the whole light.
AMUN



I have this type switch in my drafting lamp w/ 2 -18" FL bulbs. The base
clamps to the table and the light floats over the table. New it cost 120
dollars. Good used ones are 50 to 75 dollars.

Does anybody know where I can just buy a switch? I'd put a starter in it
and a regular switch in but I'm not sure of the wiring schematic.

Seems like the switch would be a common thing, but I just searched for 2
hours on line. tthhhhhht Zero~

Thanks for listening to my cry like a baby....
Randy




--

replying to Larry, gertab wrote:
Larry wrote:

Hi, I have the same kind of lamp with the same problem. It has a 22w
circline
round fluorescent bulb. I finally found a switch after having the lamp tore
apart for a long time and now I can't remember how to wire it back up. My
switch
has 4 contacts, socket has 2 blk and 2 white wires and of course 1 white
and
1
black feed. Do you have any idea where I can find a wiring diagram for this
setup. Thanks, Larry



What is the brand and model of the replacement switch you purchased? I
was hoping that Grainger would sell a replacement switch since their
Lumapro 6MNU0 matches what I have. They told me today (9/15/15) that they
don't sell the replacement switch.
--


--

replying to Randy, Randy wrote:
Randy wrote:

I have this type switch in my drafting lamp w/ 2 -18" FL bulbs. The base
clamps
to the table and the light floats over the table. New it cost 120 dollars.
Good
used ones are 50 to 75 dollars.
Does anybody know where I can just buy a switch? I'd put a starter in it
and a
regular switch in but I'm not sure of the wiring schematic.
Seems like the switch would be a common thing, but I just searched for 2
hours
on line. tthhhhhht Zero~
Thanks for listening to my cry like a baby....
Randy



Ok I think I found what I need here at Taber Luxo-Lighting.com

https://www.luxo-lighting.com/SPD/lu...1265655326.jsp

My light happens to be a Ledu and doesn't have that adaper on it. But 14
dollars isn't a bad price. I might try that.

Comments?


--

replying to User Example, Jacksf wrote:
I actually found a lamp with a similar two-button switch and old floresent
workings. I'm upgrading it to an LED strip and want to keep the look of the
red and black push buttons so replacing them with similar switches that still
have red and black caps. Technically only the red will need to be pressed once
for on and again for off, but will maintain the look vs replacing with rocker
switch.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...tch-30957-.htm

replying to Jeff Wisnia, Shorty wrote:
http://www.egaynor.com/edwin_gaynor_lampholders/666.htm
Thanks Jeff I looked for hours to find one of these. Thank you 100 thank yous.
This is for my Ledu drafting table light that I purchased in 1976.

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...tch-30957-.htm

replying to Jacksf, Shorty wrote:
http://www.egaynor.com/edwin_gaynor_lampholders/666.htm
Where did you get the LED strip?


--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...tch-30957-.htm

replying to SQLit, Matt wrote:
Well, Radio Shack is out of business, and a huge electronics store in my city
claims not to carry these parts

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...tch-30957-.htm

replying to Jeff Wisnia, Matt wrote:
Jeff, dumb question as Im a beginner: these small desk lamps with the
red/black button starter dont have a ballast....the only other part is a
smal in-line transformer, thats it! So, the switch acts as a
€œstarter?€� Why is no ballast needed in these lamps like ceiling mounted
fluorescent lights?

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...tch-30957-.htm

On Thu, 01 Nov 2018 03:14:03 GMT, Matt
m wrote:

replying to Jeff Wisnia, Matt wrote:
Jeff, dumb question as I’m a beginner: these small desk lamps with the
red/black button starter don’t have a ballast....the only other part is a
smal in-line transformer, that’s it! So, the switch acts as a
“starter?” Why is no ballast needed in these lamps like ceiling mounted
fluorescent lights?
That "transformer" IS the ballast. It is a "manual start ballast"

replying to Jeff Wisnia, csnyder wrote:
I had one of those back in my highschool days - a red button and a black one -
a branze/brown colored lamp. I've seen numerous ones at antique shops locally
here in the Waterloo Ontario aria - in working condition - in the $15 range.
I'm sur the switch would be worth that much if you could find one.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...tch-30957-.htm

In article ,
says...

replying to Jeff Wisnia, Matt wrote:
Jeff, dumb question as I?m a beginner: these small desk lamps with the
red/black button starter don?t have a ballast....the only other part is a
smal in-line transformer, that?s it! So, the switch acts as a
?starter?? Why is no ballast needed in these lamps like ceiling mounted
fluorescent lights?




People often get loose with words.

To some the ballast and transformer are the same thing.

YOu may even hear of a ballast transformer.

A ballast when used here is to limit the current the lamp will use.
Dependin on the lamp, it could be a resistor or capacitor or inductor.
Most common are the inductor or transformer type.

replying to Jeff Wisnia, Edward puro. wrote:
Can I make a suggestion. Wire a starter in place of the start switch. I did it
for my lamp and it works just fine. I put in the base of the lamp, had the
room and used small auto vacuum hose to hold the wire onto the starters
terminals.so I can replace it when needed. ED, OUT.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...tch-30957-.htm