Stanley garage door opener setup instruction
 

This is a Stanley garage door opener chain drive style, 0.5 horsepower.
Model UT300 made in 1994.

The problem is when I try to open it, either from the remote or wall
unit, it travels open for 1-2 feet and stops, and start ticking (with
Di-Da-Di-Da sound in one second interval). This is the same with or
without the door engaged.

I have tried the opener without the door engaged or the chain engaged.
in both cases got the same results, so the problem is neither the door
or the chain or the rail...

I guess the opener is actually fine but there are some procedures to
follow when setting up. I don't have the instrution manual as the
opener is from previous owner of the house. Could someone kindly
point me to the right setup proceudre or maybe email me the right step
or the related page?

I don't think it is a "set-up" problem since the opener has obviously
been there for a while & one would have to assume that it probably did
work at one time so it shouldn't need to be set-up again.

For some reason the board thinks the opener is hitting an obstruction
on the way open. That is why the opener ticks, which the ticking is the
light relay clicking on & off so the light acts as a warning that
something is wrong.

There should be an up force adjustment on the board (not to be confused
w/ the up limit that controls how far the door opens). Try turning the
up force higher to see if that solves the problem. The opener should
not be used w/ this at maximum since it can cause damage if the door
should get hung up on something while opening.

However, my guess is that the board itself is defective & if that is
the case you should consider replacing it. Most Stanley parts are
obsolete (your opener is probably one of the last ones made) &
extremely difficult to locate.

Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com

Hi, DoorDoc,

You're right the opener is there for years. This opener worked in the
past but not in good working condition, I have to tried several times
to have a full open or close. Part of the problem is door not well
balanced but now the door problem is fixed (and isolated when adjust
the opener)

The only reason that I was concerning the set-up steps is that I do
have an instruction manual for Model AT2010, which is more
automatically Stanley opener. (My model is UT300).

This manual has instructed the FULL UP position of the door MUST be
setup before FULL DOWN position by operating the LEARN UP. In my model,
I don't have the same buttons. So that is why I am wondering I may be
missing some procedure.

I did adjust the UP FORCE button to MORE FORCE position but it doesn't
seem to help. By removing the cover, I can see that when I tried door
open, the motor stops BEFORE the limit-control hits the UPPER LIMIT
swith (and starts ticking). But when I tried door close, it is fine
(the CLOSE LIMIT swith is triggering the motor to stop).


wrote:
I don't think it is a "set-up" problem since the opener has obviously
been there for a while & one would have to assume that it probably did
work at one time so it shouldn't need to be set-up again.

For some reason the board thinks the opener is hitting an obstruction
on the way open. That is why the opener ticks, which the ticking is the
light relay clicking on & off so the light acts as a warning that
something is wrong.

There should be an up force adjustment on the board (not to be confused
w/ the up limit that controls how far the door opens). Try turning the
up force higher to see if that solves the problem. The opener should
not be used w/ this at maximum since it can cause damage if the door
should get hung up on something while opening.

However, my guess is that the board itself is defective & if that is
the case you should consider replacing it. Most Stanley parts are
obsolete (your opener is probably one of the last ones made) &
extremely difficult to locate.

Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com

Hi, DoorDoc,

You're right the opener is there for years. This opener worked in the
past but not in good working condition, I have to tried several times
to have a full open or close. Part of the problem is door not well
balanced but now the door problem is fixed (and isolated when adjust
the opener)

The only reason that I was concerning the set-up steps is that I do
have an instruction manual for Model AT2010, which is more
automatically Stanley opener. (My model is UT300).

This manual has instructed the FULL UP position of the door MUST be
setup before FULL DOWN position by operating the LEARN UP. In my model,
I don't have the same buttons. So that is why I am wondering I may be
missing some procedure.

I did adjust the UP FORCE button to MORE FORCE position but it doesn't
seem to help. By removing the cover, I can see that when I tried door
open, the motor stops BEFORE the limit-control hits the UPPER LIMIT
swith (and starts ticking). But when I tried door close, it is fine
(the CLOSE LIMIT swith is triggering the motor to stop).

wrote:
I don't think it is a "set-up" problem since the opener has obviously
been there for a while & one would have to assume that it probably did
work at one time so it shouldn't need to be set-up again.

For some reason the board thinks the opener is hitting an obstruction
on the way open. That is why the opener ticks, which the ticking is the
light relay clicking on & off so the light acts as a warning that
something is wrong.

There should be an up force adjustment on the board (not to be confused
w/ the up limit that controls how far the door opens). Try turning the
up force higher to see if that solves the problem. The opener should
not be used w/ this at maximum since it can cause damage if the door
should get hung up on something while opening.

However, my guess is that the board itself is defective & if that is
the case you should consider replacing it. Most Stanley parts are
obsolete (your opener is probably one of the last ones made) &
extremely difficult to locate.

Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com

Hi, DoorDoc,

You're right the opener is there for years. This opener worked in the
past but not in good working condition, I have to tried several times
to have a full open or close. Part of the problem is door not well
balanced but now the door problem is fixed (and isolated when adjust
the opener)

The only reason that I was concerning the set-up steps is that I do
have an instruction manual for Model AT2010, which is more
automatically Stanley opener. (My model is UT300).

This manual has instructed the FULL UP position of the door MUST be
setup before FULL DOWN position by operating the LEARN UP. In my model,
I don't have the same buttons. So that is why I am wondering I may be
missing some procedure.

I did adjust the UP FORCE button to MORE FORCE position but it doesn't
seem to help. By removing the cover, I can see that when I tried door
open, the motor stops BEFORE the limit-control hits the UPPER LIMIT
swith (and starts ticking). But when I tried door close, it is fine
(the CLOSE LIMIT swith is triggering the motor to stop).

wrote:
I don't think it is a "set-up" problem since the opener has obviously
been there for a while & one would have to assume that it probably did
work at one time so it shouldn't need to be set-up again.

For some reason the board thinks the opener is hitting an obstruction
on the way open. That is why the opener ticks, which the ticking is the
light relay clicking on & off so the light acts as a warning that
something is wrong.

There should be an up force adjustment on the board (not to be confused
w/ the up limit that controls how far the door opens). Try turning the
up force higher to see if that solves the problem. The opener should
not be used w/ this at maximum since it can cause damage if the door
should get hung up on something while opening.

However, my guess is that the board itself is defective & if that is
the case you should consider replacing it. Most Stanley parts are
obsolete (your opener is probably one of the last ones made) &
extremely difficult to locate.

Doordoc
www.DoorsAndOpeners.com

Stanley garage door opener setup instruction
 

replying to doordoc, BRUCE wrote:
Mine did the same. The the obstruction sensitivity was set too high.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ion-25130-.htm