GE clothes dryer not hot
 

In sci.electronics.repair DaveC wrote:
I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the use of
2 different wattage heater elements. For example, Low = 1000w element;
Medium = 1500w element; High = both elements.

This may be right. Another way it can be done is with two equal wattage
elements. Low = one element across 120 V, medium = one element across
240 V, high = both elements across 240 V. More common in electric ranges
that have off-1-2-3-4 pushbuttons instead of "infinite" heat controls,
but possible in a dryer.

How is it possible for the dryer to fail in a mode that results in only
medium heat?

Using your assumption, "low" element open, or faulty temperature switch.

Just trying to get a few ideas before opening it up.

Open it up. :) Most GE washers and dryers will have a schematic folded
up and taped somewhere inside the control panel. If you can read this
and drive a DVM, you can make some tests of the switches and the elements
at the control panel wiring, before having to pull the drum out to get at
the elements. Unplug the dryer first and watch out for sharp edges of
sheet metal inside it.

Matt Roberds

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On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 07:05:14 GMT, wrote:

In sci.electronics.repair DaveC wrote:
I presume the way 3 heat settings are accomplished is through the
use of 2 different wattage heater elements. For example, Low =
1000w element; Medium = 1500w element; High = both elements.

This may be right. Another way it can be done is with two equal
wattage elements. Low = one element across 120 V, medium = one
element across 240 V, high = both elements across 240 V.

This is wrong. 120 V across both elements in parallel will be half
the wattage of 240 V across a single element.

More common in electric ranges
that have off-1-2-3-4 pushbuttons instead of "infinite" heat
controls, but possible in a dryer.

I hated those systems. A quick way to spot a dodgy switch is with an
inline wattmeter. Just cycle through the heat selections and watch
the meter.

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-john
wide-open at throttle dot info

In sci.electronics.repair ~^Johnny^~ wrote:
On Mon, 15 Aug 2005 07:05:14 GMT, wrote:
This may be right. Another way it can be done is with two equal
wattage elements. Low = one element across 120 V, medium = one
element across 240 V, high = both elements across 240 V.

This is wrong. 120 V across both elements in parallel will be half
the wattage of 240 V across a single element.

Your statement is true, but I don't think it's what I said. Maybe I
wasn't clear. If you have two 100 W 240 V elements, putting one element
across 120 V yields 25 W. Putting one element across 240 V yields
100 W, and putting both elements in parallel across 240 V yields 200 W.
Now I agree that this isn't a very linear progression (25-100-200), but
I was just using it as an example.

Matt Roberds