Shower stall glass door re-install problem
 

Shower pan failed - tore out the old pan and about half of the tile (about
three feet up on each wall) - new tile and pan installed by a contractor -
I'm reinstalling the old shower door, and it looks like the width of the
shower sill (where the bottom runner of the shower door goes) is about 1/2
inch wider than where the top rail of the shower door goes. Not sure if it
was like this previously, or if the hardiboard the tile guy used on the
repair would be different from the original crap put in when the house was
built 20+ years ago.

1 - if I just center the bottom rail on the sill, will some extra caulking
at each end of the bottom rail take care of the width problem and prevent
leaks?

2 - I'm assuming that the vertical rails need to be true (straight up and
down) so the door hangs correctly - since the walls aren't square, could I
just shim the vertical rails slightly at the bottom to make sure they're
lined up correctly - guess I'd have to use some additional caulk there, too?

Using a bar of soap standing out in the rain is looking pretty good right
now!

Thanks!

"New Comcast News Server" wrote in
message ...
Shower pan failed - tore out the old pan and about half of the tile (about
three feet up on each wall) - new tile and pan installed by a contractor -
I'm reinstalling the old shower door, and it looks like the width of the
shower sill (where the bottom runner of the shower door goes) is about 1/2
inch wider than where the top rail of the shower door goes. Not sure if
it
was like this previously, or if the hardiboard the tile guy used on the
repair would be different from the original crap put in when the house was
built 20+ years ago.

1 - if I just center the bottom rail on the sill, will some extra caulking
at each end of the bottom rail take care of the width problem and prevent
leaks?

2 - I'm assuming that the vertical rails need to be true (straight up and
down) so the door hangs correctly - since the walls aren't square, could I
just shim the vertical rails slightly at the bottom to make sure they're
lined up correctly - guess I'd have to use some additional caulk there,
too?

Using a bar of soap standing out in the rain is looking pretty good right
now!

Thanks!

I believe that caulking will work. My base was not exactly level and the
gap between the glass shower walls and the base went from zero to about a
1/2 in. I filled it in with a good silicone caulking and in almost 2 yrs.
haven't had any leaks.
MLD

Using Caulk to fill 1/2" gap seems like it be a bit too big .

Not sure if I am visualizing your situation correctly though.

The contractor could have adjusted things to make sure the door would fit.
Did he know what you were planning to do?



"New Comcast News Server" wrote in
message ...
Shower pan failed - tore out the old pan and about half of the tile (about
three feet up on each wall) - new tile and pan installed by a contractor -
I'm reinstalling the old shower door, and it looks like the width of the
shower sill (where the bottom runner of the shower door goes) is about 1/2
inch wider than where the top rail of the shower door goes. Not sure if
it
was like this previously, or if the hardiboard the tile guy used on the
repair would be different from the original crap put in when the house was
built 20+ years ago.

1 - if I just center the bottom rail on the sill, will some extra caulking
at each end of the bottom rail take care of the width problem and prevent
leaks?

2 - I'm assuming that the vertical rails need to be true (straight up and
down) so the door hangs correctly - since the walls aren't square, could I
just shim the vertical rails slightly at the bottom to make sure they're
lined up correctly - guess I'd have to use some additional caulk there,
too?

Using a bar of soap standing out in the rain is looking pretty good right
now!

Thanks!

It'd be more like 1/4 inch on each side of the base - I didn't specifically
tell the guy that did the tile that we were going to put in a shower door,
but he had to know - there's now way a shower curtain would work in this
situation - and the holes were there (in the tile that wasn't replaced) from
when we took down the door before starting to bust up the floor.

"PipeDown" wrote in message
ink.net...
Using Caulk to fill 1/2" gap seems like it be a bit too big .

Not sure if I am visualizing your situation correctly though.

The contractor could have adjusted things to make sure the door would fit.
Did he know what you were planning to do?



"New Comcast News Server" wrote in
message ...
Shower pan failed - tore out the old pan and about half of the tile
(about
three feet up on each wall) - new tile and pan installed by a
contractor -
I'm reinstalling the old shower door, and it looks like the width of the
shower sill (where the bottom runner of the shower door goes) is about
1/2
inch wider than where the top rail of the shower door goes. Not sure if
it
was like this previously, or if the hardiboard the tile guy used on the
repair would be different from the original crap put in when the house
was
built 20+ years ago.

1 - if I just center the bottom rail on the sill, will some extra
caulking
at each end of the bottom rail take care of the width problem and
prevent
leaks?

2 - I'm assuming that the vertical rails need to be true (straight up
and
down) so the door hangs correctly - since the walls aren't square, could
I
just shim the vertical rails slightly at the bottom to make sure they're
lined up correctly - guess I'd have to use some additional caulk there,
too?

Using a bar of soap standing out in the rain is looking pretty good
right
now!

Thanks!

1/4" In that case why not. Make sure the door is rigidly mounted first and
use masking tape to get a good straight line



"New Comcast News Server" wrote in
message ...
It'd be more like 1/4 inch on each side of the base - I didn't
specifically
tell the guy that did the tile that we were going to put in a shower door,
but he had to know - there's now way a shower curtain would work in this
situation - and the holes were there (in the tile that wasn't replaced)
from
when we took down the door before starting to bust up the floor.

"PipeDown" wrote in message
ink.net...
Using Caulk to fill 1/2" gap seems like it be a bit too big .

Not sure if I am visualizing your situation correctly though.

The contractor could have adjusted things to make sure the door would
fit.
Did he know what you were planning to do?



"New Comcast News Server" wrote in
message ...
Shower pan failed - tore out the old pan and about half of the tile
(about
three feet up on each wall) - new tile and pan installed by a
contractor -
I'm reinstalling the old shower door, and it looks like the width of
the
shower sill (where the bottom runner of the shower door goes) is about
1/2
inch wider than where the top rail of the shower door goes. Not sure
if
it
was like this previously, or if the hardiboard the tile guy used on the
repair would be different from the original crap put in when the house
was
built 20+ years ago.

1 - if I just center the bottom rail on the sill, will some extra
caulking
at each end of the bottom rail take care of the width problem and
prevent
leaks?

2 - I'm assuming that the vertical rails need to be true (straight up
and
down) so the door hangs correctly - since the walls aren't square,
could
I
just shim the vertical rails slightly at the bottom to make sure
they're
lined up correctly - guess I'd have to use some additional caulk there,
too?

Using a bar of soap standing out in the rain is looking pretty good
right
now!

Thanks!