OK - I pulled off the top of the deck lamp junction box and isolated
the wires going directly to the underwater bulb (recall that turning it
on trips the GFI, which tests to be working correctly.

Between the two leads to the bulb (green and black) there is
continuity. Between each of the individual leads and the pool ground
(electrical junction box) there is also continuity. I think this is
expected from the green (ground) lead --- but I'm guessing the fact
that the black lamp lead is also grounded is what's causing the GFI to
trip.

Is this right?

What's the next step in repair? Pulling the wire to the niche and
replacing --- or is pulling the lamp housing up the surface for
inspection next?

Thanks for ideas?

" wrote:

OK - I pulled off the top of the deck lamp junction box and isolated
the wires going directly to the underwater bulb (recall that turning it
on trips the GFI, which tests to be working correctly.

Between the two leads to the bulb (green and black) there is
continuity. Between each of the individual leads and the pool ground
(electrical junction box) there is also continuity. I think this is
expected from the green (ground) lead --- but I'm guessing the fact
that the black lamp lead is also grounded is what's causing the GFI to
trip.

Is this right?

What's the next step in repair? Pulling the wire to the niche and
replacing --- or is pulling the lamp housing up the surface for
inspection next?


Well, if the hot side is grounded there's a problem... But
"continuity" is something else..if the bulb is intact, there will be
continuity through the filament--but it shouldn't be a dead short.

I think b) is the next step...of course, I figured it was where you
needed to look to begin with, too...

Now you've confirmed that you have a ground fault in the fixture/wiring. You
have three choices: leave it disconnected and have no underwater light,
somehow get the stuck screw out and "try" to replace the lamp if bad and the
gasket(good luck) or spend a few hundred dollars and get an entire new
sealed unit
wrote in message
oups.com...
OK - I pulled off the top of the deck lamp junction box and isolated
the wires going directly to the underwater bulb (recall that turning it
on trips the GFI, which tests to be working correctly.

Between the two leads to the bulb (green and black) there is
continuity. Between each of the individual leads and the pool ground
(electrical junction box) there is also continuity. I think this is
expected from the green (ground) lead --- but I'm guessing the fact
that the black lamp lead is also grounded is what's causing the GFI to
trip.

Is this right?

What's the next step in repair? Pulling the wire to the niche and
replacing --- or is pulling the lamp housing up the surface for
inspection next?

Thanks for ideas?

Ron -

Buy a new fixture. Don't attempt a repair.

I'm not saying it can't be fixed... but do you really want to wonder if
your fix is holding up every time you jump in the pool?

Even if it's $1000; either buy a new fixture, or go without.

Well, thats what I would do, anyway.

OK - My work is cut out: Hire an electrician!
Thanks for the feedback - at least I"ll now what I'm up against.
Cheers!

writes:

What's the next step in repair? Pulling the wire to the niche and
replacing --- or is pulling the lamp housing up the surface for
inspection next?

Check the fixture. Not a big job to remove and disassemble.

Regarding the wiring, wet niche lights are typically wired with just UF
cable directly buried in the backfill. The via into the niche is just a
1/2 ID tube that is filled with caulk. If there's a problem inside the
niche or the via, then you may fix it. If the problem is some buried wire,
then oh-oh.

See my page at http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm

In the USA it is illegal to wire wet niche fixtures with UF cable. The PVC
pipe feeding the niche will probably be 1" as it must contain a #8 solid
bonding wire along with the fixture's feed cable
"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
...
writes:

What's the next step in repair? Pulling the wire to the niche and
replacing --- or is pulling the lamp housing up the surface for
inspection next?

Check the fixture. Not a big job to remove and disassemble.

Regarding the wiring, wet niche lights are typically wired with just UF
cable directly buried in the backfill. The via into the niche is just a
1/2 ID tube that is filled with caulk. If there's a problem inside the
niche or the via, then you may fix it. If the problem is some buried
wire,
then oh-oh.

See my page at http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm

RBM writes:

In the USA it is illegal to wire wet niche fixtures with UF cable.

Depends on the age of the pool and code in effect during construction.

The
PVC pipe feeding the niche will probably be 1" as it must contain a #8
solid bonding wire along with the fixture's feed cable

In that case, a problem is still typically repairable from the pool side.

If the pool was built in the US in the last thirty years, UF feeding wet
niche fixtures was and is illegal. If the fixture is properly installed and
wired it can either be repaired from the fixture end or the whole unit and
attached rubber cord can be removed and replaced without digging or
disturbing anything


"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
.. .
RBM writes:

In the USA it is illegal to wire wet niche fixtures with UF cable.

Depends on the age of the pool and code in effect during construction.

The
PVC pipe feeding the niche will probably be 1" as it must contain a #8
solid bonding wire along with the fixture's feed cable

In that case, a problem is still typically repairable from the pool side.