How long for wood to dry?
 

How long can I expect green 4X4 and 2X4 lumber to cure? I have it all
stacked together on a level surface. I do not have 1/4" strips separating
the wood, however there is a constant dry breeze. Am I looking at 6-8
weeks? 6 months? I know there are variables that I haven't thought of, but
I'm just trying to figure out when I can use this stuff.
Also if this lumber is on a level surface, can I expect it to warp? How can
I prevent warp?

Thanks,

Djay

In article 9Wome.5547$Vm4.2033@trnddc01, "djay" wrote:
How long can I expect green 4X4 and 2X4 lumber to cure? I have it all
stacked together on a level surface. I do not have 1/4" strips separating
the wood, however there is a constant dry breeze. Am I looking at 6-8
weeks? 6 months? I know there are variables that I haven't thought of, but
I'm just trying to figure out when I can use this stuff.

Without strips (called "stickers") separating the layers of wood, it will not
dry in your lifetime - it will rot first. The wood *must* have air circulation
on *all* sides in order to dry. And the stickers need to be thicker than 1/4"
for proper air circulation: 3/4" is better.

You *must* sticker the wood if you expect it dry properly. This is not
optional. You'll have a pile of useless, rotted wood within a year if you
don't.

The rule of thumb for air-dryed wood is one year per inch of thickness, plus
one year - so figure 5 years for 4" thick lumber, 3 years for 2" thickness. If
you live in an area with very low humidity (such as Arizona), it won't take
that long; OTOH, if you're in Florida, it could be much longer.

Also if this lumber is on a level surface, can I expect it to warp? How can
I prevent warp?

Not enough information to tell. Depends on the species, on the individual
tree, what part of the tree the wood came from (trunk or branch), on how the
wood was sawn from the log, and on how it's stacked.

If the tree was pretty close to straight when it was alive, the wood came
from the trunk and was cut properly and stickered promptly, stacked on a level
surface, you won't see too much warping. OTOH, if the tree was leaning, or if
you cut lumber out of large branches, it'll warp. (Google search on "reaction
wood" to learn why.) Some species (e.g. beech) are prone to warping, others
(e.g. black walnut) generally are not. Quartersawn lumber is more stable than
flatsawn lumber. And on and on.

For more information:

1) look for a copy of "Fine Woodworking on Wood and How to Dry It" at your
local library

2) check out the chapter on drying wood in "Wood Handbook: Wood as an
Engineering Material" available on-line at
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fp.../fplgtr113.htm

3) post your question over at rec.woodworking - several guys there air-dry
their own wood, and can give you a lot of useful tips.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
.. .
In article 9Wome.5547$Vm4.2033@trnddc01, "djay"
wrote:
How long can I expect green 4X4 and 2X4 lumber to cure? I have it all
stacked together on a level surface. I do not have 1/4" strips separating
the wood, however there is a constant dry breeze. Am I looking at 6-8
weeks? 6 months? I know there are variables that I haven't thought of,
but
I'm just trying to figure out when I can use this stuff.

Without strips (called "stickers") separating the layers of wood, it will
not
dry in your lifetime - it will rot first. The wood *must* have air
circulation
on *all* sides in order to dry. And the stickers need to be thicker than
1/4"
for proper air circulation: 3/4" is better.

You *must* sticker the wood if you expect it dry properly. This is not
optional. You'll have a pile of useless, rotted wood within a year if you
don't.

The rule of thumb for air-dryed wood is one year per inch of thickness,
plus
one year - so figure 5 years for 4" thick lumber, 3 years for 2"
thickness. If
you live in an area with very low humidity (such as Arizona), it won't
take
that long; OTOH, if you're in Florida, it could be much longer.

Also if this lumber is on a level surface, can I expect it to warp? How
can
I prevent warp?

Not enough information to tell. Depends on the species, on the individual
tree, what part of the tree the wood came from (trunk or branch), on how
the
wood was sawn from the log, and on how it's stacked.

If the tree was pretty close to straight when it was alive, the wood came
from the trunk and was cut properly and stickered promptly, stacked on a
level
surface, you won't see too much warping. OTOH, if the tree was leaning, or
if
you cut lumber out of large branches, it'll warp. (Google search on
"reaction
wood" to learn why.) Some species (e.g. beech) are prone to warping,
others
(e.g. black walnut) generally are not. Quartersawn lumber is more stable
than
flatsawn lumber. And on and on.

For more information:

1) look for a copy of "Fine Woodworking on Wood and How to Dry It" at your
local library

2) check out the chapter on drying wood in "Wood Handbook: Wood as an
Engineering Material" available on-line at
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fp.../fplgtr113.htm

3) post your question over at rec.woodworking - several guys there air-dry
their own wood, and can give you a lot of useful tips.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

Awesome post Doug. I appreciate all the great information!

Djay

"djay" wrote in message
news:9Wome.5547$Vm4.2033@trnddc01...
How long can I expect green 4X4 and 2X4 lumber to cure? I have it all stacked
together on a level surface. I do not have 1/4" strips separating the wood,
however there is a constant dry breeze. Am I looking at 6-8 weeks? 6 months?
I know there are variables that I haven't thought of, but I'm just trying to
figure out when I can use this stuff.
Also if this lumber is on a level surface, can I expect it to warp? How can I
prevent warp?

Thanks,

Djay

This is Turtle.

Without Strips deviding the wood to dry. It should be dry by the year 2035 or
maybe 2040.

If you strip it ever 30 inches you should not have much warping of the wood.
Like it is you can see the dry wood by it turning up or bowing up to show it. As
it drys through the years it will bow to tell you it is dry.

Doug Miller has some good words on dring the wood.

TURTLE

It has a half life of 10,000 years.

"Aleph3" wrote in message
...
It has a half life of 10,000 years.

This is Turtle.

Been there and seen that. The wood not air gapped will rott in about 12 months.

TURTLE

Aleph3 wrote:
It has a half life of 10,000 years.

That's good news. I'm in my mid 50's and my wood's still retaining full
life and hasn't dried yet.

"djay" wrote in message
news:9Wome.5547$Vm4.2033@trnddc01...
How long can I expect green 4X4 and 2X4 lumber to cure? I have it all
stacked together on a level surface. I do not have 1/4" strips separating
the wood, however there is a constant dry breeze. Am I looking at 6-8
weeks? 6 months? I know there are variables that I haven't thought of,
but
I'm just trying to figure out when I can use this stuff.
Also if this lumber is on a level surface, can I expect it to warp? How
can
I prevent warp?


As others have already said, use stickers....get it up off the floor first.

Also, consider banding the entire bundle together with steel strapping---as
this will prevent almost all warpage.

--

SVL

"Doug Miller" wrote in message

The rule of thumb for air-dryed wood is one year per inch of thickness,
plus one year - so figure 5 years for 4" thick lumber, 3 years for 2"
thickness...

I wonder how that changes for a low-temp kiln, eg a pile of stickered wood
in a greenhouse.

Nick

Or, weight it down with cement blocks over the stickers.

Other factors of importance:

1. cover the stack, like with tarp, over the top, and extending off the
sides, to shed water and minimize direct sunshine. Cover as little as
possible.

2. place stack with max southern exposure, and open to wind movement.
Temperature is very important to drying wood, having major impact on
equilibrium content of wood and drying rate.

HTH,
John

The important thing to remember in home drying rough wood is keep it slow.
The slower the drying the less checking and fibre seperation.
If the wood is to be used for framing, use it green and quick or it will
walk away on you. Old timers up here in central ontario's logging country
would stack and sticker hardwood in barn lofts and cover it with sawdust to
control drying. Quick dries destroy wood.

--


Remove the obvious to reply. Experienced and reliable
Concrete Finishing and Synthetic Stucco application in the GTA.
wrote in message
oups.com...
Or, weight it down with cement blocks over the stickers.

Other factors of importance:

1. cover the stack, like with tarp, over the top, and extending off the
sides, to shed water and minimize direct sunshine. Cover as little as
possible.

2. place stack with max southern exposure, and open to wind movement.
Temperature is very important to drying wood, having major impact on
equilibrium content of wood and drying rate.

HTH,
John