low water pressure solution?
 

First, go to flushmaster.com

We have low water pressure in that a shower feels like a drizzle. To
solve this it seems to me that you could put one of these sealed
pressure tanks in hooked to you city water for water supply, but with
that pressure system you could run your water pressure up to 60 lbs or
more if your plumbing could stand it.

The sealed pressure system tank doesn't cost much, some of smaller ones
little over 50$. But expectedly the bigger, more water volume would
probably be best. But I think the size is regulated by the amount of
water supplied in a certain amount of time.

They seem easy to hook into you water system. Just like making a
splice, one pipe in and one pipe out. The only thing you might have to
put some solenoid to turn water supply on and off, when tank reaches
desire pressure, but those are basically inexpensive.

We have an old house (about 50 yrs) Have had low water pressure for years
and thought we would have to have new plumbing. It is a two story house so
the plumber replaced the iron pipes in the basement and it solved our water
pressure problem. Just a few hundred dollars.
wrote in message
oups.com...
First, go to flushmaster.com

We have low water pressure in that a shower feels like a drizzle. To
solve this it seems to me that you could put one of these sealed
pressure tanks in hooked to you city water for water supply, but with
that pressure system you could run your water pressure up to 60 lbs or
more if your plumbing could stand it.

The sealed pressure system tank doesn't cost much, some of smaller ones
little over 50$. But expectedly the bigger, more water volume would
probably be best. But I think the size is regulated by the amount of
water supplied in a certain amount of time.

They seem easy to hook into you water system. Just like making a
splice, one pipe in and one pipe out. The only thing you might have to
put some solenoid to turn water supply on and off, when tank reaches
desire pressure, but those are basically inexpensive.

wrote:
First, go to flushmaster.com

We have low water pressure in that a shower feels like a drizzle. To
solve this it seems to me that you could put one of these sealed
pressure tanks in hooked to you city water for water supply, but with
that pressure system you could run your water pressure up to 60 lbs
or
more if your plumbing could stand it.

The sealed pressure system tank doesn't cost much, some of smaller
ones
little over 50$. But expectedly the bigger, more water volume would
probably be best. But I think the size is regulated by the amount of
water supplied in a certain amount of time.

They seem easy to hook into you water system. Just like making a
splice, one pipe in and one pipe out. The only thing you might have
to
put some solenoid to turn water supply on and off, when tank reaches
desire pressure, but those are basically inexpensive.

J Meehan has some good advice. If that doesn't cure the problem:

Before anything else you need to determine if you have a pressure or a
flow problem. Check your static pressure (pressure reading with no
water running). A plug type guage (just hold it against a spigot)
isn't all that expensive. Then check the dynamic pressure. The
pressure reading with water running preferably right by where you are
reading the pressure.

The dynamic will be lower but shouldn't be by much. If it is grossly
different you have a flow restriction somewhere. From most common to
least:

1. Plugged filter system
2. Corroded pipes
3. Partially closed valve up stream of point of use.

To illustrate with a grossly simplified hydraulic explanation.

Hydraulic pressure will be the same throughout the closed system. That
is, if street pressure is 60psi, you will have 60 psi at any fixture in
the house -as long as no water is running-. That is static pressure.
Restrictions cause a reduction in pressure as there is insufficient
flow to maintain pressure. Corroded pipes would allow a 60psi static
(even a pinhole would eventually reach system static pressure) but
could have near zero dynamic.

Harry K

wrote in message
oups.com...
First, go to flushmaster.com

We have low water pressure in that a shower feels like a drizzle. To
solve this it seems to me that you could put one of these sealed
pressure tanks in hooked to you city water for water supply, but with
that pressure system you could run your water pressure up to 60 lbs or
more if your plumbing could stand it.

You will get absolutely no more pressure from adding a pressure tank to your
city water supply. You will gain the ability to have a greater volume than
your main line can provide, but only until the pressure in the tank is
drained down... I have considered this myself. Not because of a pressure
problem, though.


The sealed pressure system tank doesn't cost much, some of smaller ones
little over 50$. But expectedly the bigger, more water volume would
probably be best. But I think the size is regulated by the amount of
water supplied in a certain amount of time.

Not really. It's a matter of how long you want the increased volume
availeble before you're back to where you'd be with no pressure tank (after
the pressure in the tank drains down if you're using more water than the
main can provide).


They seem easy to hook into you water system. Just like making a
splice, one pipe in and one pipe out. The only thing you might have to
put some solenoid to turn water supply on and off, when tank reaches
desire pressure, but those are basically inexpensive.

You won't need anything but the actual pressure measurement of your incoming
water from the city. Then you can properly pressurize the tank. Once the
incoming water pressure has been reached in the tank the flow will stop to
the tank from the main.

The benefit of having a pressure tank hooked to city water system is as
follows (the way I see it):

You can install larger diameter supply plumbing throughout your house than
your incoming main's diameter. The pressure tank will store up a large
volume of water ready to feed your faucets and will maintain a higher flow
rate throughout the house than your main can provide. That is until the
pressure in the tank is drained (if you're using more water than your main
can provide at once). If you're using less water than your main can provide
there will be no change. The tank will stay charged and you'll be using the
water from your main. But as soon as you start drawing more than your main
can provide the pressure tank will automatically dispense more water to your
house until it runs out of pressure its self. Basically you'd have to add a
few tanks to have any sustainable "super" flow rate throughout your house
(say... flushing the toilet and doing laundry while someone is in the
shower).

Also, a pressure tank installed like you describe would pretty much
eliminate water hammer, or at least greatly reduce it.

Sorry, didn't mean it to be spam. I thought that was where the parts
were that I was talking about.

I've replaced all of our old cast iron pipe with PVC or CPVC. We
still have low pressure throughout the house and the shower sucks, or,
well drizzels!

Try a pressure booster pump connected to the pressure tank (shallow
well pump). You can increase the pressure if it is very low, like 20
PSI, to 60 PSI. But if your pipes are too small, you may still have a
problem.

Stretch

"stretch" wrote in message
oups.com...
Try a pressure booster pump connected to the pressure tank (shallow
well pump). You can increase the pressure if it is very low, like 20
PSI, to 60 PSI. But if your pipes are too small, you may still have a
problem.


Put in the bladder tank, and add a check valve to prevent backflow into the
supply mains.

That way, you always start off with your inside plumbing pressure at the top
of the supply fluctuation cycle.

--

SVL