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-   -   Hanging an interior door (https://www.diybanter.com/home-repair/104983-hanging-interior-door.html)

ng_reader April 28th 05 02:13 AM

Hanging an interior door
 
I went to the Depot the other day, waited 3 weeks for my custom interior
door with frame, and decided one day to install it into my bathroom.

I guess the trick is to make it plumb and square?

That's some freaking trick, I'll tell you.

After installing the door, and not having it fit, I called the 800# for
Premdor of Canada, the manufacturer. It's actually Masonite, a company I'm
sure you've all heard of.

They must have a pretty busy call center up there, cause I could tell the
gal I was talking to was

1) under educated
2) over worked
3) somewhat stressed
4) likely underpaid

However --- insightful, she was.

Tack the top hinge corner, then shim the frame till it's plumb and square.

Maybe I needed a second person. Maybe I needed a better level. (Is there
really a difference in my plastic 5' level?)

So I ended up removing material, from where the door *didn't* fit, painted
it up, and it didn't fit **again**.

The company rep told me to get a qualified contractor. ********, I said.

She also told me if it's not plumb and square the first time - I'm screwed
for life. A real horror story.

My question is:

Is that true, will it get worse over time?

Is there a trick to understanding what the MAGIC words plumb and square
mean?

The door was a bargain, or at least I kinda though so.

I'd like to replace 4 more, but I don't have the funds, nor am I sure the
patience, and definitely NOT the skills.



tom April 28th 05 05:25 AM


From: "ng_reader" - snip

I guess the trick is to make it plumb and square?

I'd like to replace 4 more, but I don't have the funds, nor am I sure
the
patience, and definitely NOT the skills.
snip.

I suspect by the fourth one, you'll have it down. I'll also bet that
there are instructions somewhere on the doorjamb. Tom


cc0112453 April 28th 05 06:08 AM

Go to the library and get a book on door installation or see if there is a
video at your local home improvement store. The Internet isn't always the
best answer for everything. Much easier to have the information in a book
form with pictures so you can flip through it at your leisure.

Doug


"ng_reader" wrote in message
...
I went to the Depot the other day, waited 3 weeks for my custom interior
door with frame, and decided one day to install it into my bathroom.

I guess the trick is to make it plumb and square?

That's some freaking trick, I'll tell you.

After installing the door, and not having it fit, I called the 800# for
Premdor of Canada, the manufacturer. It's actually Masonite, a company
I'm
sure you've all heard of.

They must have a pretty busy call center up there, cause I could tell the
gal I was talking to was

1) under educated
2) over worked
3) somewhat stressed
4) likely underpaid

However --- insightful, she was.

Tack the top hinge corner, then shim the frame till it's plumb and square.

Maybe I needed a second person. Maybe I needed a better level. (Is there
really a difference in my plastic 5' level?)

So I ended up removing material, from where the door *didn't* fit, painted
it up, and it didn't fit **again**.

The company rep told me to get a qualified contractor. ********, I said.

She also told me if it's not plumb and square the first time - I'm screwed
for life. A real horror story.

My question is:

Is that true, will it get worse over time?

Is there a trick to understanding what the MAGIC words plumb and square
mean?

The door was a bargain, or at least I kinda though so.

I'd like to replace 4 more, but I don't have the funds, nor am I sure the
patience, and definitely NOT the skills.





ng_reader April 28th 05 07:48 PM


"cc0112453" wrote in message
...
Go to the library and get a book on door installation or see if there is a
video at your local home improvement store. The Internet isn't always the
best answer for everything. Much easier to have the information in a book
form with pictures so you can flip through it at your leisure.

Doug


snip

Agreed,

Internet is better for *real time*, but pales in comparison to a library.
Additionally, reading a computer screen is a pain.



borgunit April 28th 05 08:01 PM

Just a quick question. After you shimmed it, did you nail or screw the
door way to the wall studs? Once it is attached, it won't move unless
your house moves.


Stormin Mormon April 28th 05 09:42 PM

Plumb: Means that the vertical edge is, well, vertical.
Squa In this case, means that the door lines up with the hole.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"ng_reader" wrote in message
...
I went to the Depot the other day, waited 3 weeks for my custom interior
door with frame, and decided one day to install it into my bathroom.

I guess the trick is to make it plumb and square?

That's some freaking trick, I'll tell you.

After installing the door, and not having it fit, I called the 800# for
Premdor of Canada, the manufacturer. It's actually Masonite, a company I'm
sure you've all heard of.

They must have a pretty busy call center up there, cause I could tell the
gal I was talking to was

1) under educated
2) over worked
3) somewhat stressed
4) likely underpaid

However --- insightful, she was.

Tack the top hinge corner, then shim the frame till it's plumb and square.

Maybe I needed a second person. Maybe I needed a better level. (Is there
really a difference in my plastic 5' level?)

So I ended up removing material, from where the door *didn't* fit, painted
it up, and it didn't fit **again**.

The company rep told me to get a qualified contractor. ********, I said.

She also told me if it's not plumb and square the first time - I'm screwed
for life. A real horror story.

My question is:

Is that true, will it get worse over time?

Is there a trick to understanding what the MAGIC words plumb and square
mean?

The door was a bargain, or at least I kinda though so.

I'd like to replace 4 more, but I don't have the funds, nor am I sure the
patience, and definitely NOT the skills.




ng_reader April 29th 05 07:40 PM

That's what I thought.

I actually ended up using some screws, because my finish nails weren't long
enough. (In some places)

At least I countersunk the heads, so I could spackle and paint on top of
them.

Yeah, I think the doom and gloom was a lot of hooey.


"borgunit" wrote in message
news:6db5d$42713314$455da0d2$11566@allthenewsgroup s.com...
Just a quick question. After you shimmed it, did you nail or screw the
door way to the wall studs? Once it is attached, it won't move unless
your house moves.




Steve Manes May 1st 05 02:24 AM

On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 21:13:33 -0400, "ng_reader"
wrote:

However --- insightful, she was.

Tack the top hinge corner, then shim the frame till it's plumb and square.


With all due respect to the door company lady, no.

What you do first is check that the hinge-side jack stud in the rough
opening is plumb. Following her instructions, if the top of the stud
was leaning "away" from the opening then there wouldn't be any way to
shim the hinge-side of the door frame so that it was plumb.

Center the door in the opening. If the jack stud is leaning "into"
the opening, drive a finishing nail into the top of the door frame,
then use shims to level the bottom. If the jack stud is leaning
"away" from the opening, nail at the bottom first. Drive the nail in
just far enough that the door frame is secure. Then align the plumb
of the frame using a level on both the face and edge of the frame.

Add shims under each hinge point. Insert two shims from opposite
sides so the frame remains square (i.e. 90 degrees) to the sides of
the opening. Don't force them in or you could bow the frame. Then
nail through them. Use your long level to make sure the frame is
straight (neither cupped nor bowed). Then complete driving in the
nails.

This will ensure a plumb door. The rest is just sighting along the
reveal between the door and the frame to make sure it's even, using
shims as before.

She also told me if it's not plumb and square the first time - I'm screwed
for life. A real horror story.


No. If the door is really out, use a sawzall to cut the nails and
start over. It just means more nail holes to fill later.

Is that true, will it get worse over time?


Only if you didn't fasten it securely in the rough opening.

Is there a trick to understanding what the MAGIC words plumb and square
mean?


square = 90 degrees to the intersecting side(s)
plumb = exactly vertical on both axis.
level = exactly horizontal on both axis. (bonus word!)

Steve Manes
Brooklyn, NY
http://www.magpie.com/house

ng_reader May 1st 05 02:34 AM


"Steve Manes" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 21:13:33 -0400, "ng_reader"
wrote:

However --- insightful, she was.

Tack the top hinge corner, then shim the frame till it's plumb and

square.

With all due respect to the door company lady, no.

What you do first is check that the hinge-side jack stud in the rough
opening is plumb. Following her instructions, if the top of the stud
was leaning "away" from the opening then there wouldn't be any way to
shim the hinge-side of the door frame so that it was plumb.

Center the door in the opening. If the jack stud is leaning "into"
the opening, drive a finishing nail into the top of the door frame,
then use shims to level the bottom. If the jack stud is leaning
"away" from the opening, nail at the bottom first. Drive the nail in
just far enough that the door frame is secure. Then align the plumb
of the frame using a level on both the face and edge of the frame.

Add shims under each hinge point. Insert two shims from opposite
sides so the frame remains square (i.e. 90 degrees) to the sides of
the opening. Don't force them in or you could bow the frame. Then
nail through them. Use your long level to make sure the frame is
straight (neither cupped nor bowed). Then complete driving in the
nails.

This will ensure a plumb door. The rest is just sighting along the
reveal between the door and the frame to make sure it's even, using
shims as before.

She also told me if it's not plumb and square the first time - I'm

screwed
for life. A real horror story.


No. If the door is really out, use a sawzall to cut the nails and
start over. It just means more nail holes to fill later.

Is that true, will it get worse over time?


Only if you didn't fasten it securely in the rough opening.

Is there a trick to understanding what the MAGIC words plumb and square
mean?


square = 90 degrees to the intersecting side(s)
plumb = exactly vertical on both axis.
level = exactly horizontal on both axis. (bonus word!)

Steve Manes
Brooklyn, NY
http://www.magpie.com/house


Thanks!

Good post, nice site, nice house.




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