Modernizing An old Hot water Heating System?
 

I own a 165 old stone house and my sons house is about 65 years old and we
both have hot water heating systems. Like everyone else we are looking for
any new technological advances that would help us improve the efficiency of
our heating systems. I have a mid efficiency Viesmamn boiler thats about
15 years old and my sons boiler is about 30 years old.

Any info on how to improve the efficiency of our systems would be much
appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Jimbo

On Thu, 21 Apr 2005 18:17:22 -0400, "Jimbo"
wrote:

I own a 165 old stone house and my sons house is about 65 years old and we
both have hot water heating systems. Like everyone else we are looking for
any new technological advances that would help us improve the efficiency of
our heating systems. I have a mid efficiency Viesmamn boiler thats about
15 years old and my sons boiler is about 30 years old.

Any info on how to improve the efficiency of our systems would be much
appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Jimbo


I've worked on a lot of these systems, the best way to increase
efficiency is probably to install a set-back control to tune the
temperature of the circulating water to the outdoor temperature and to
perhaps install a flue damper to help control off-cycle heat losses.
It wont't be cheap, but I think you would get at least a two year
payback and after that the gains are free. This all depends on
factors that I can't see from here, but I think it might work for you.

Dan

Cost wise there is nothing that will give a payback, an auto flue damper
that closes on shut down should have saftey lockouts to insure the
boiler does not run should the vent become stuck or Co can poison you.
This might cost 750-1000, a guess and save 5%-7 %. Making sure it is
maintained and burning right is about it. Your old units may be at
50-70% efficient new units can go to 96%. Best is insulation, low E
Argon windows and a new boiler. The two most cost effective things are
R-5 cellular window shades and attic insulation to above code.

m Ransley wrote

...R-5 cellular window shades

Interesting. Who makes them and what model, and do they actually say
R5? Does that include air leakage around the edges of the shade? How
much do they cost? I haven't seen much better than R2 being produced
now. Does this "R5 shade" count an R3 window?

Nick

www.symphonyshades.com has a R 4.6 model I have a R5 model made on file
somewhere.. These higher R models seal on the sides in a track. From
what I have seen R 3.2 is common for cellular unless I am reading it
wrong. From what I believe I see you can easily take an R 3.2 dual pane
LowE argon window and go to R6.4 with Bali from HD or up to R 10 wth
Tri pane Low E argon and the R 5 shade. R 7.8 would be achieved easily
with dual pane LowE argon and the R 4.6 shade. Many houses actualy have
R 8 to R12 walls so the energy savings is worth the price of the units.

On Fri, 22 Apr 2005 05:52:47 -0500, (m Ransley)
wrote:

Cost wise there is nothing that will give a payback, an auto flue damper
that closes on shut down should have saftey lockouts to insure the
boiler does not run should the vent become stuck or Co can poison you.
This might cost 750-1000, a guess and save 5%-7 %. Making sure it is
maintained and burning right is about it. Your old units may be at
50-70% efficient new units can go to 96%. Best is insulation, low E
Argon windows and a new boiler. The two most cost effective things are
R-5 cellular window shades and attic insulation to above code.

I stand by my earlier advice, a condensing mode boiler is probably
not a good idea unless you have underfloor radiant heat that uses low
temp circulating water. The parts I suggested would cost about 500,
if you're in the least handy you could probably do it. I suggest you
go to heatinghelp.com and post your question on the wall, that's where
the people with real expertise live.

Dan