I'm in the market for a new riding mower/lawn tractor. I mow about
3/4 acre of grass in a flat yard with few obstacles. The only thing
that I will do with this mower is cut grass and pick up leaves in the
fall. I may buy an airator in the future and possible a cart, but
that's it.

I may buy a cheaper model from a box store, but prefer to go with
something a little better built from a dealer that can service and
repair the unit in the future. For me, that means Toro or John Deere
- I'm not sure if there is a Cub Cadet or Simplicity dealer in my
area. I know many people love their Deere's, but I'm not sure that I
want to spend the $$ to get into the LT series and am unsure of the L
series' quality and general "Deereness". The Deere dealer told me
that the biggest issue with the L series is that the front axles need
to be greased frequently. Considering that I can get an L110 with 42"
cut and a 17.5 hp kohler for $1800, and a LT150 with a 15hp engine and
38" for $2500, greasing the front axle everytime I add gas doesn't
seem like that much of an issue. I would appreciate other's opinions.

I don't see many people posting their opinions or experiences with
Toro riders. I have worked with the dealer near me and have been
satisfied with his service. The only model that he carries in my
price range is the 16-38HXL. It is on sale for $1900 right now.

This is from the Toro website:
http://www.toro.com/home/tractors/xl/1638h.html

Please advise.

~ Wyatt

"Wyatt Wright" wrote in message
om...
I'm in the market for a new riding mower/lawn tractor. I mow about
3/4 acre of grass in a flat yard with few obstacles. The only thing
that I will do with this mower is cut grass and pick up leaves in the
fall. I may buy an airator in the future and possible a cart, but
that's it.

I may buy a cheaper model from a box store, but prefer to go with
something a little better built from a dealer that can service and
repair the unit in the future. For me, that means Toro or John Deere
- I'm not sure if there is a Cub Cadet or Simplicity dealer in my
area. I know many people love their Deere's, but I'm not sure that I
want to spend the $$ to get into the LT series and am unsure of the L
series' quality and general "Deereness". The Deere dealer told me
that the biggest issue with the L series is that the front axles need
to be greased frequently. Considering that I can get an L110 with 42"
cut and a 17.5 hp kohler for $1800, and a LT150 with a 15hp engine and
38" for $2500, greasing the front axle everytime I add gas doesn't
seem like that much of an issue. I would appreciate other's opinions.

I don't see many people posting their opinions or experiences with
Toro riders. I have worked with the dealer near me and have been
satisfied with his service. The only model that he carries in my
price range is the 16-38HXL. It is on sale for $1900 right now.

This is from the Toro website:
http://www.toro.com/home/tractors/xl/1638h.html

Please advise.

~ Wyatt

I wouldn't hesitate going with the L110 - greasing is not a big problem -
first thing in the spring and last thing in the fall should do it unless you
start to mow neighbors yards or brush hog with the it. I like Kohler
engines and the 42" deck better than the 38". I would assume the local JD
dealer sets them up and services them for the box store but you might want
to confirm this since it is not a sure thing. No big deal if it is some
other good service outfit.

In article , (Wyatt Wright) wrote:
I'm in the market for a new riding mower/lawn tractor. I mow about
3/4 acre of grass in a flat yard with few obstacles. The only thing
that I will do with this mower is cut grass and pick up leaves in the
fall. I may buy an airator in the future and possible a cart, but
that's it.

I may buy a cheaper model from a box store, but prefer to go with
something a little better built from a dealer that can service and
repair the unit in the future. For me, that means Toro or John Deere
- I'm not sure if there is a Cub Cadet or Simplicity dealer in my
area. I know many people love their Deere's, but I'm not sure that I
want to spend the $$ [...]

Three-quarters of an acre will wear out one of the box-store riding mowers in
only a few years. Those things are *not* built for extensive use. So you're
right to be looking at Toro or John Deere.

But they *are* pretty pricey.

Have you considered buying a used JD model from a JD dealer? That's what I did
a few years ago when my MTD bit the dust. Paid less for a used JD than I would
have for a new MTD, and it's held up pretty well -- still has a few more years
of life left in it, I'm sure.

Doug Miller wrote:

In article , wyattwrigh=
(Wyatt Wright) wrote:
=20

I'm in the market for a new riding mower/lawn tractor. I mow about
3/4 acre of grass in a flat yard with few obstacles. The only thing
that I will do with this mower is cut grass and pick up leaves in the
fall. I may buy an airator in the future and possible a cart, but
that's it.

I may buy a cheaper model from a box store, but prefer to go with
something a little better built from a dealer that can service and
repair the unit in the future. For me, that means Toro or John Deere
- I'm not sure if there is a Cub Cadet or Simplicity dealer in my
area. I know many people love their Deere's, but I'm not sure that I
want to spend the $$ [...]
=20


Three-quarters of an acre will wear out one of the box-store riding mowe=
rs in=20
only a few years. Those things are *not* built for extensive use. So you=
're=20
right to be looking at Toro or John Deere.
=20

BS. My cheap ass ($1600), 18hp B&S, 42" 3 bladed mower, Agway bought,=20
Murray built, garden tractor/mower has been running for over 10 years=20
and I have a 1 acre plot of land ( minus buildings, pool, and driveway). =

In the spring, and wet summers, I have to mow twice a week. My land is=20
not flat, and I climb 30=BA slopes on both sides of my driveway.=20
Additionally, the tractor serves as a platform for an attached 48" snow=20
blower, and is used throughout the winter, cleaning my 100', 2 lane=20
driveway, plus 3 neighbor's driveways. I live in NY.

But they *are* pretty pricey.

Have you considered buying a used JD model from a JD dealer? That's what=
I did=20
a few years ago when my MTD bit the dust. Paid less for a used JD than I=
would=20
have for a new MTD, and it's held up pretty well -- still has a few more=
years=20
of life left in it, I'm sure.
=20

Wyatt Wright wrote:

I'm in the market for a new riding mower/lawn tractor. I mow about
3/4 acre of grass in a flat yard with few obstacles. The only thing
that I will do with this mower is cut grass and pick up leaves in the
fall. I may buy an airator in the future and possible a cart, but
that's it.

I may buy a cheaper model from a box store, but prefer to go with
something a little better built from a dealer that can service and
repair the unit in the future. For me, that means Toro or John Deere
- I'm not sure if there is a Cub Cadet or Simplicity dealer in my
area. I know many people love their Deere's, but I'm not sure that I
want to spend the $$ to get into the LT series and am unsure of the L
series' quality and general "Deereness". The Deere dealer told me
that the biggest issue with the L series is that the front axles need
to be greased frequently. Considering that I can get an L110 with 42"
cut and a 17.5 hp kohler for $1800, and a LT150 with a 15hp engine and
38" for $2500, greasing the front axle everytime I add gas doesn't
seem like that much of an issue. I would appreciate other's opinions.

I don't see many people posting their opinions or experiences with
Toro riders. I have worked with the dealer near me and have been
satisfied with his service. The only model that he carries in my
price range is the 16-38HXL. It is on sale for $1900 right now.

This is from the Toro website:
http://www.toro.com/home/tractors/xl/1638h.html

Please advise.

~ Wyatt
3/4 acre is a nothin'. I mow 5 acres, sometimes with meadow grass, with
Craftsman mowers from Sears. The first one I had was an 18hp Kohler
which blew a rear seal from excessive blow-by after 12 years----I rode
that baby hard and sometimes put her away wet. I replaced it with a
Craftsman with a 22hp Briggs and it seems to work better than the old
one ever did-----I went from a three blade deck to a two blade deck and
the cut looks a lot better. For a winter project I may overhaul the old
Kohler. For what you want to do I think your present choice of mower is
going to cost you an extra $1000. A lot of the newer Cub and JD stuff
is made with a lot of the same parts as MTD and Craftsman----you're
going to pay a lot for that Yellow or Green paint. Sears parts are both
available and reasonable in cost, not very hard to fix.

Just a question to the group - does anyone use the rototiller option wit
their tractor? We'd like to invest in the tractor/mower, snowblower and
rototiller - don't really want 3 machines to house!

Thanks
Cathy



"Bill B" wrote in message
...
Wyatt Wright wrote:

I'm in the market for a new riding mower/lawn tractor. I mow about
3/4 acre of grass in a flat yard with few obstacles. The only thing
that I will do with this mower is cut grass and pick up leaves in the
fall. I may buy an airator in the future and possible a cart, but
that's it.

I may buy a cheaper model from a box store, but prefer to go with
something a little better built from a dealer that can service and
repair the unit in the future. For me, that means Toro or John Deere
- I'm not sure if there is a Cub Cadet or Simplicity dealer in my
area. I know many people love their Deere's, but I'm not sure that I
want to spend the $$ to get into the LT series and am unsure of the L
series' quality and general "Deereness". The Deere dealer told me
that the biggest issue with the L series is that the front axles need
to be greased frequently. Considering that I can get an L110 with 42"
cut and a 17.5 hp kohler for $1800, and a LT150 with a 15hp engine and
38" for $2500, greasing the front axle everytime I add gas doesn't
seem like that much of an issue. I would appreciate other's opinions.

I don't see many people posting their opinions or experiences with
Toro riders. I have worked with the dealer near me and have been
satisfied with his service. The only model that he carries in my
price range is the 16-38HXL. It is on sale for $1900 right now.

This is from the Toro website:
http://www.toro.com/home/tractors/xl/1638h.html

Please advise.

~ Wyatt
3/4 acre is a nothin'. I mow 5 acres, sometimes with meadow grass, with
Craftsman mowers from Sears. The first one I had was an 18hp Kohler
which blew a rear seal from excessive blow-by after 12 years----I rode
that baby hard and sometimes put her away wet. I replaced it with a
Craftsman with a 22hp Briggs and it seems to work better than the old
one ever did-----I went from a three blade deck to a two blade deck and
the cut looks a lot better. For a winter project I may overhaul the old
Kohler. For what you want to do I think your present choice of mower is
going to cost you an extra $1000. A lot of the newer Cub and JD stuff
is made with a lot of the same parts as MTD and Craftsman----you're
going to pay a lot for that Yellow or Green paint. Sears parts are both
available and reasonable in cost, not very hard to fix.

"cb" wrote in message
news:XrK%c.159910$X12.89274@edtnps84...
Just a question to the group - does anyone use the rototiller option wit
their tractor? We'd like to invest in the tractor/mower, snowblower and
rototiller - don't really want 3 machines to house!

Thanks
Cathy



"Bill B" wrote in message
...
Wyatt Wright wrote:

I'm in the market for a new riding mower/lawn tractor. I mow about
3/4 acre of grass in a flat yard with few obstacles. The only thing
that I will do with this mower is cut grass and pick up leaves in the
fall. I may buy an airator in the future and possible a cart, but
that's it.

I may buy a cheaper model from a box store, but prefer to go with
something a little better built from a dealer that can service and
repair the unit in the future. For me, that means Toro or John Deere
- I'm not sure if there is a Cub Cadet or Simplicity dealer in my
area. I know many people love their Deere's, but I'm not sure that I
want to spend the $$ to get into the LT series and am unsure of the L
series' quality and general "Deereness". The Deere dealer told me
that the biggest issue with the L series is that the front axles need
to be greased frequently. Considering that I can get an L110 with 42"
cut and a 17.5 hp kohler for $1800, and a LT150 with a 15hp engine and
38" for $2500, greasing the front axle everytime I add gas doesn't
seem like that much of an issue. I would appreciate other's opinions.

I don't see many people posting their opinions or experiences with
Toro riders. I have worked with the dealer near me and have been
satisfied with his service. The only model that he carries in my
price range is the 16-38HXL. It is on sale for $1900 right now.

This is from the Toro website:
http://www.toro.com/home/tractors/xl/1638h.html

Please advise.

~ Wyatt
3/4 acre is a nothin'. I mow 5 acres, sometimes with meadow grass, with
Craftsman mowers from Sears. The first one I had was an 18hp Kohler
which blew a rear seal from excessive blow-by after 12 years----I rode
that baby hard and sometimes put her away wet. I replaced it with a
Craftsman with a 22hp Briggs and it seems to work better than the old
one ever did-----I went from a three blade deck to a two blade deck and
the cut looks a lot better. For a winter project I may overhaul the old
Kohler. For what you want to do I think your present choice of mower is
going to cost you an extra $1000. A lot of the newer Cub and JD stuff
is made with a lot of the same parts as MTD and Craftsman----you're
going to pay a lot for that Yellow or Green paint. Sears parts are both
available and reasonable in cost, not very hard to fix.


Not yet - but I always have my eye open for a deal - that would be something
I couldn't pass up at the right price.

In article , Bill Schnakenberg wrote:
Doug Miller wrote:


Three-quarters of an acre will wear out one of the box-store riding mowe=
rs in=20
only a few years. Those things are *not* built for extensive use. So you=
're=20
right to be looking at Toro or John Deere.
=20

BS. My cheap ass ($1600),

Speaking of BS, by what definition is sixteen hundred bucks a "cheap ass"
riding mower?

Doug Miller wrote:

In article , Bill Schnakenberg wrote:


Doug Miller wrote:






Three-quarters of an acre will wear out one of the box-store riding mowe=


rs in=20


only a few years. Those things are *not* built for extensive use. So you=


're=20


right to be looking at Toro or John Deere.
=20



BS. My cheap ass ($1600),



Speaking of BS, by what definition is sixteen hundred bucks a "cheap ass"
riding mower?


You mispled Garden Tractor.

Been using a 1994 Sears $895 44 inch on my 3/4 acre, all grass without any
problems, except replacing the battery $44

10 years without a hitch
I expect at least another 8 out of 'er


"Wyatt Wright" wrote in message
om...
I'm in the market for a new riding mower/lawn tractor. I mow about
3/4 acre of grass in a flat yard with few obstacles. The only thing
that I will do with this mower is cut grass and pick up leaves in the
fall. I may buy an airator in the future and possible a cart, but
that's it.

I may buy a cheaper model from a box store, but prefer to go with
something a little better built from a dealer that can service and
repair the unit in the future. For me, that means Toro or John Deere
- I'm not sure if there is a Cub Cadet or Simplicity dealer in my
area. I know many people love their Deere's, but I'm not sure that I
want to spend the $$ to get into the LT series and am unsure of the L
series' quality and general "Deereness". The Deere dealer told me
that the biggest issue with the L series is that the front axles need
to be greased frequently. Considering that I can get an L110 with 42"
cut and a 17.5 hp kohler for $1800, and a LT150 with a 15hp engine and
38" for $2500, greasing the front axle everytime I add gas doesn't
seem like that much of an issue. I would appreciate other's opinions.

I don't see many people posting their opinions or experiences with
Toro riders. I have worked with the dealer near me and have been
satisfied with his service. The only model that he carries in my
price range is the 16-38HXL. It is on sale for $1900 right now.

This is from the Toro website:
http://www.toro.com/home/tractors/xl/1638h.html

Please advise.

~ Wyatt

We mow about 6 of our ten + acres.
Three or four of those six we use the bush hog on, the remainder we use our
Husqvarna.
We bought it from the "Husky" dealer rather than a home store so it cost a
little more. It has a Kawasaki 22hp engine and a 48" cut.

I just love my Husky! In particular I like the way the hydroglide
transmission works. No notches to change from gear to gear, it just slides
giving a very wide range of speeds and the ability to slow down in a hurry
when you need to. The controls seem to be a bit more ergonomic than the
others did. I suggest you try whatever you are looking at out. Drive a few
of them at the dealership before you buy. See that it fits, if you like the
location of the controls, what accessories are available and so on.

Though you are thinking you may only use it to mow, I would like to offer
this suggestion. Think of buying a pull behind cart for it. I bought a two
wheel dump cart for mine and OMG it is the handiest thing! Now I use my
Husky to haul garden debris to the mulch pile, brush from under the trees,
rocks, soil, fallen branches... the list goes on and on. I even haul a push
mower, weed eater, rakes and shovels a couple of chairs and a water jug in
that little trailer when it's time to go clear weeds down by the pond. It's
one of the best $100 bills I have ever spent. Actually... I told my Hubby,
"This is what I want for my birthday".... he's a good listener ;¬D

Hope you find something great!

Kate

"Wyatt Wright" wrote in message
om...
| I'm in the market for a new riding mower/lawn tractor. I mow about
| 3/4 acre of grass in a flat yard with few obstacles. The only thing
| that I will do with this mower is cut grass and pick up leaves in the
| fall. I may buy an airator in the future and possible a cart, but
| that's it.
|
| I may buy a cheaper model from a box store, but prefer to go with
| something a little better built from a dealer that can service and
| repair the unit in the future. For me, that means Toro or John Deere
| - I'm not sure if there is a Cub Cadet or Simplicity dealer in my
| area. I know many people love their Deere's, but I'm not sure that I
| want to spend the $$ to get into the LT series and am unsure of the L
| series' quality and general "Deereness". The Deere dealer told me
| that the biggest issue with the L series is that the front axles need
| to be greased frequently. Considering that I can get an L110 with 42"
| cut and a 17.5 hp kohler for $1800, and a LT150 with a 15hp engine and
| 38" for $2500, greasing the front axle everytime I add gas doesn't
| seem like that much of an issue. I would appreciate other's opinions.
|
| I don't see many people posting their opinions or experiences with
| Toro riders. I have worked with the dealer near me and have been
| satisfied with his service. The only model that he carries in my
| price range is the 16-38HXL. It is on sale for $1900 right now.
|
| This is from the Toro website:
| http://www.toro.com/home/tractors/xl/1638h.html
|
| Please advise.
|
| ~ Wyatt

I suppose THAT would depend on your perspective.
Bigger deck, more HP, better features... it is more along the mid range for
home use lawn tractors.
I paid $2700 for my Husky this spring. 22 hp, 48"deck, three cutting blades,
hydroglide tranny and a damn fine beer holder.

I suppose if you were determined to prove the point, you could compare the
$1200 bucks to the cost of a Kubota 4x4 lawn tractor weighing in at around
$7000 - $9000. Or maybe a zero turn mower.....

So, $1200 would be considered somewhat "cheap" in the world of mowers, lower
HP, smaller deck, less features. Something like the KIA of the lawnmower
set. BUT that depends on your needs and desires.

Personally, I need the power, and I want all that I can get. Next time, I AM
going to buy that Kubota. When the Husky wears out that is.

Kate

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
| In article , Bill Schnakenberg
wrote:
| Doug Miller wrote:
|
|
| Three-quarters of an acre will wear out one of the box-store riding
mowe=
| rs in=20
| only a few years. Those things are *not* built for extensive use. So
you=
| 're=20
| right to be looking at Toro or John Deere.
| =20
|
| BS. My cheap ass ($1600),
|
| Speaking of BS, by what definition is sixteen hundred bucks a "cheap ass"
| riding mower?

"Bill Schnakenberg" wrote |
|
| You mispled Garden Tractor.


You funny!

Kate

The Biggest Sears lawn tractor is identical to the Husky, only more
expensive by a coule of hundred bucks in my area.

"Bill B" wrote in message
...
| Wyatt Wright wrote:
|
| I'm in the market for a new riding mower/lawn tractor. I mow about
| 3/4 acre of grass in a flat yard with few obstacles. The only thing
| that I will do with this mower is cut grass and pick up leaves in the
| fall. I may buy an airator in the future and possible a cart, but
| that's it.
|
| I may buy a cheaper model from a box store, but prefer to go with
| something a little better built from a dealer that can service and
| repair the unit in the future. For me, that means Toro or John Deere
| - I'm not sure if there is a Cub Cadet or Simplicity dealer in my
| area. I know many people love their Deere's, but I'm not sure that I
| want to spend the $$ to get into the LT series and am unsure of the L
| series' quality and general "Deereness". The Deere dealer told me
| that the biggest issue with the L series is that the front axles need
| to be greased frequently. Considering that I can get an L110 with 42"
| cut and a 17.5 hp kohler for $1800, and a LT150 with a 15hp engine and
| 38" for $2500, greasing the front axle everytime I add gas doesn't
| seem like that much of an issue. I would appreciate other's opinions.
|
| I don't see many people posting their opinions or experiences with
| Toro riders. I have worked with the dealer near me and have been
| satisfied with his service. The only model that he carries in my
| price range is the 16-38HXL. It is on sale for $1900 right now.
|
| This is from the Toro website:
| http://www.toro.com/home/tractors/xl/1638h.html
|
| Please advise.
|
| ~ Wyatt
| 3/4 acre is a nothin'. I mow 5 acres, sometimes with meadow grass, with
| Craftsman mowers from Sears. The first one I had was an 18hp Kohler
| which blew a rear seal from excessive blow-by after 12 years----I rode
| that baby hard and sometimes put her away wet. I replaced it with a
| Craftsman with a 22hp Briggs and it seems to work better than the old
| one ever did-----I went from a three blade deck to a two blade deck and
| the cut looks a lot better. For a winter project I may overhaul the old
| Kohler. For what you want to do I think your present choice of mower is
| going to cost you an extra $1000. A lot of the newer Cub and JD stuff
| is made with a lot of the same parts as MTD and Craftsman----you're
| going to pay a lot for that Yellow or Green paint. Sears parts are both
| available and reasonable in cost, not very hard to fix.

"cb" wrote in message
news:XrK%c.159910$X12.89274@edtnps84...
| Just a question to the group - does anyone use the rototiller option wit
| their tractor? We'd like to invest in the tractor/mower, snowblower and
| rototiller - don't really want 3 machines to house!
|
| Thanks
| Cathy
|
|

That's something I would like to see, sounds like a great idea.

Kate

SVTKate wrote:

Though you are thinking you may only use it to mow, I would like to
offer this suggestion. Think of buying a pull behind cart for it. I
bought a two wheel dump cart for mine and OMG it is the handiest
thing! Now I use my Husky to haul garden debris to the mulch pile,
brush from under the trees, rocks, soil, fallen branches... the
list goes on and on.

Absolutely!! We use our garden tractor more for moving stuff with the
cart - currently hurricane debris from the trees - than for mowing.
Actually, I got weary of mowing 10 acres and now hire it done.

--
dadiOH
_____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.0...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
____________________________

(Wyatt Wright) wrote:

Considering that I can get an L110 with 42"
cut and a 17.5 hp kohler for $1800, and a LT150 with a 15hp engine and
38" for $2500, greasing the front axle everytime I add gas doesn't
seem like that much of an issue. I would appreciate other's opinions.

I don't see many people posting their opinions or experiences with
Toro riders. I have worked with the dealer near me and have been
satisfied with his service.

I would first recommend a tractor with a cast iron engine or at least
cast iron sleeves like the Kohler. They will last forever. Second, I
would recommend a brand with a local dealer and parts department. They
are easy to fix and there are accessories that one wants to add once in
a while. I have owned a Wheelhorse (pre Toro) for a long time, about 20
years and it does an excellent job and has proved very reliable. I have
the rear discharge mower and love it. It doesn't throw grass in the
road or in flower beds and can be used with an inexpensive sweeper. I
used a friends Simplicity once and think they probably do the best job
of mowing of any product on the market. They have very fine control of
the height and leave a manicured appearance that the others don't. My
neighbors have John Deere, Cub Cadet, and Husqvarnas. They do a good
job, but no better than my Wheelhorse and some don't have a read
discharge mower available. The new Toros are virtually identical and
have interchangeable parts.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

http://www.whatsthebest-lawnmower.com/index.shtml

Check the forum. There are many knowledgeable folks there who can
offer solid advice.

John

John Davies TLCA 14732
http://home.comcast.net/~johnedavies/
'96 Lexus LX450
'00 Audi A4 1.8T quattro
Spokane WA USA

S. M. Henning wrote:

I would first recommend a tractor with a cast iron engine or at
least cast iron sleeves like the Kohler. They will last forever.

Not quite forever...mine crapped out after 7 years. Kohler wanted something
like $1600 for a new one. I bought a Tecumseh for $600+. More HP too...

--
dadiOH
_____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.0...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico
____________________________

"dadiOH" wrote:

Not quite forever...mine crapped out after 7 years. Kohler wanted something
like $1600 for a new one. I bought a Tecumseh for $600+. More HP too...

That is very unusual for a cast iron Kohler to fail if you changed the
oil and kept the oil topped up. I had a cast iron Kohler on a tractor
that I used in fields to chop brush and an occasional rock. I mowed 2
acres of grass for 20 years with it. I mowed an embankment where I had
to get off the tractor and walk on the flat so that I could hold the
tractor on the embankment so it wouldn't fall over. I plowed snow with
it. I even plowed the road in front of our house and the neighbors
houses with it. It was still going strong when I sold it. It had
replaced a Tecumseh that didn't even finish the second season before it
got a warped head and was junk. There are good cast iron Tecumseh's but
mine wasn't cast iron.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

(Wyatt Wright) wrote in message . com...
I'm in the market for a new riding mower/lawn tractor. I mow about
3/4 acre of grass in a flat yard with few obstacles. The only thing
that I will do with this mower is cut grass and pick up leaves in the
fall. I may buy an airator in the future and possible a cart, but
that's it.

I may buy a cheaper model from a box store, but prefer to go with
something a little better built from a dealer that can service and
repair the unit in the future. For me, that means Toro or John Deere
- I'm not sure if there is a Cub Cadet or Simplicity dealer in my
area. I know many people love their Deere's, but I'm not sure that I
want to spend the $$ to get into the LT series and am unsure of the L
series' quality and general "Deereness". The Deere dealer told me
that the biggest issue with the L series is that the front axles need
to be greased frequently. Considering that I can get an L110 with 42"
cut and a 17.5 hp kohler for $1800, and a LT150 with a 15hp engine and
38" for $2500, greasing the front axle everytime I add gas doesn't
seem like that much of an issue. I would appreciate other's opinions.

snip

I've expressed my concern with the price of the L series.. JD seems
to have this line to compete with the big box store offerings, and I'd
be concerned about, as you put it, the 'Deereness' of the product.

My advice on the John Deeres is to make sure you buy what you want;
with the possible exception of the L series, a John Deere in a
residential setting will last for decades, if it's taken care of.

We have a 214 that I bought in 1990 used.. had to put a couple
batteries in it (because it uses car sized batteries I usually pick
which car has the oldest battery in it, replace that battery, and
install the take-out in the 214). Couple of belts, other than that
haven't even tuned it up.

Currently having some problems with the belt tension system for the
mower deck drive, and as I am currently out of commision with double
hernia surgery we asked the daughter to take care of the lawn this
time around. Mentioned daughter tried to mow with the push behind, but
gave up and called her boyfriend, who brought over his family's old
mower, a JD 430. Watercooled 22hp diesel, 60" deck, Hydrostat trans,
differential lock, full hydraulics front and rear. Looks a little
rough, but mowed the yard without a problem.

They just bought a new mower to replace this one.. got a nice zero
turn radius JD. I asked what they planned to do with this one (the
430). They planned to sell it.

For $300

I took some pain meds, went and looked at it and told the wife, who
told him to unload it, we'll take it.

Sometimes you've just got to be in the right place at the right
time..

Regards,

Jim

"Jim" wrote in message
**snip**
| Sometimes you've just got to be in the right place at the right
| time..
|

Mark THAT a bargain!
Kate

| Regards,
|
| Jim

Bill B wrote in news:10juoct3ptru320
@corp.supernews.com:

A lot of the newer Cub and JD stuff
is made with a lot of the same parts as MTD and Craftsman----you're
going to pay a lot for that Yellow or Green paint. Sears parts are both
available and reasonable in cost, not very hard to fix.

I'm going on 5 years with my Murray, 17 horse 46" 3-blade cut. No
problems. Paid $1250 for it at Wally World. I'd buy one all over again.
(Please not right now, I can't afford it.


---
Never trust a computer that you can lift. (from the Mainframe Forum)

I'm going on 5 years with my Murray, 17 horse 46" 3-blade cut. No
problems. Paid $1250 for it at Wally World. I'd buy one all over again.
(Please not right now, I can't afford it.


I bought a Murray 6 years ago.

It didn't even make it a week before the starter shot craps.
Spent a week getting it fixed. Then that starter shot craps.
Back to the shop for another week or 2. It ran for about a month,
then the electrical wiring system shorted out and did a melt down. Back to
the shop. Got it back about a month later.

Ran fine for a few months but I was going thru belts about 1 a month.
Then it started vibrating bad. Real bad.
Found only 1 bolt holding the motor down. The rest were gone.
And it was supposed to be a self tapping bolt but someone had put
a nut on it. It was way to small for the hole.

Lots of yelling and screaming between me & murray along the way.
After a year, they got tired of me and sent me a refund.

Bought a sears with a 20hp Kohler after that and haven't had a bit
of problem since.

But before you think I'm just bashing Murray. I'm not. Well sort of.
I did think it was a fair made tractor and I just got a real lemon. No
one could make many like the one I had and stay in business.



Randy
http://members.aol.com/rsmeiner

"SVTKate" wrote in message
link.net...

"Jim" wrote in message
**snip**
| Sometimes you've just got to be in the right place at the right
| time..
|

Mark THAT a bargain!
Kate

| Regards,
|
| Jim


Hello group,
Been reading everyones posts about the driving tractor mowers. We are
building a house in the country with a huge front lawn(not our idea, it's
required by the community), and we are trying to decide how to handle it
(lawn service or mower) After reading some posts regarding these things
having "automatic transmissions" and how they make the job easier, I am
curious..I am sure they don't have transmission like a car which shifts
gears and such, but was wondering how they work? Can you slow down, stop
and go without having to disengage the gears and such? My guess is a
standard one with a clutch you would be clutching and going to get around
flowerbeds and such...Seems the auto is the way to go if your gonna have
one..But just curious as to how they actually work...

Thanks so much!
John

John wrote:

"SVTKate" wrote in message
hlink.net...


"Jim" wrote in message
**snip**
| Sometimes you've just got to be in the right place at the right
| time..
|

Mark THAT a bargain!
Kate

| Regards,
|
| Jim




Hello group,
Been reading everyones posts about the driving tractor mowers. We are
building a house in the country with a huge front lawn(not our idea, it's
required by the community), and we are trying to decide how to handle it
(lawn service or mower) After reading some posts regarding these things
having "automatic transmissions" and how they make the job easier, I am
curious..I am sure they don't have transmission like a car which shifts
gears and such, but was wondering how they work? Can you slow down, stop
and go without having to disengage the gears and such? My guess is a
standard one with a clutch you would be clutching and going to get around
flowerbeds and such...Seems the auto is the way to go if your gonna have
one..But just curious as to how they actually work...

Thanks so much!
John

I don't know how the others work, but my previously mentioned
Agway/Murray garden tractor has a Hydrostatic Automatic drive.
It has a throttle handle on the dash that stays in whatever position it
is set. An L shaped rocker type foot pedal on the right operates the
mower's speed either forward or in reverse. Push more, faster. Push
less, slower. It does not have cruise control, so the foot has to be
kept on the pedal when moving, like a car. The mower engine speed is not
affected by the foot pedal. The engine's rpm stays at whatever the
throttle is set at, no matter what the foot pedal position is. When
going down hill, lifting the foot from the foot pedal causes the mower
to go into a sort of braking mode, so the mower does not freewheel down
the grade.
There is no shifting of the mower transmission that I can hear. A brake
pedal is on the left side.

"John" wrote:

After reading some posts regarding these things
having "automatic transmissions" and how they make the job easier, I am
curious..I am sure they don't have transmission like a car which shifts
gears and such, but was wondering how they work?

A lawn tractor must run the engine at a constant speed to keep the mower
running at a constant speed. To change the tractor speed you use a
different gear. My garden tractor has 6 forward speeds (gear
selections). The highest is primarily for going from point a to point b
in a hurry. The next is slower for mowing under normal conditions. The
next is even slower for mowing around objects or in heavy growth. The
next three gears are really creeper gears for snow blowing, very heavy
mowing, etc. If your lawn has few objects, then the automatic
transmission won't be doing anything. The advantage of an automatic
transmission is it is easier to slow down when mowing around objects.
It acts more like the gas peddle on a car but is operated by your hand.
You push a lever one way to go faster and you push it the other to slow
down or go backwards. With the automatic you only have a brake pedal.
With the regular you have a clutch and brake. However, you don't have to
worry about how you let out the clutch like in a car. You just put it
in the gear you want to use and let the clutch out. Tractors are like
that. You stop when you want to change gears. With a little practice
you will get so it starts smoothly, but you don't need to master the
fine skills of using a clutch to use a tractor.

Mechanically, the regular transmission has metal gears that last
forever. The automatic transmissions have belts that can break. For
reliability a regular transmission is best. For convenience an
automatic transmission is best.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

I would have to dissagree on needing gears if you pull heavy loads. I
would be hard pressed to believe the gears in most typical L & G
tractors are all that much stonger than a good hydrostatic drive unit.
MOst consumer type L & G tractors are offered as baaaseline units with
minimal everything be it gears or hydrostatic drives. I had a JD317
with over 4000 hours on it when I finally got rid of it, and it was a
hydrastatic drive, and it was used hard and put up wet all the time,
and it was used to pull more than what it should have all the time. I
used to drag around a trailer full of firewood that weighted about 5
or 6000 pounds. It was used for ground tillage and breaking in the
garden I had back then, 1 1/2 acres and it never missed a beat.

I now have a JD GX335 with hydro and its just as good as the 317
was..You do not need gears to pull things with and they certainly do
not make it any more efficient or stronger. The JD lineup of the L
series is built for light pulling loads as are most other similar
units.

Nnnothing could be easier and more trouble free than the layout JD
uses with their twin touch pedals. Throttle it up and go.......push
harder on the pedal you have ore speed and torque. No need to come to
a complete stop before hitting the reverse pedal either, so cycle time
and fuction is a lot quicker with a hydrastatic drive with twin pedals
than anay setup using strictly gears can even think about being. More
andmore heavy dury industrial equipment is being suypplied with
hydrostatic drives each year. Its a proven fact they are just as
strong when it comes to use and pulling with and will last just as
long.
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wife,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

Ol' Duffer wrote:

In article ,
says...


Been reading everyones posts about the driving tractor mowers. We are
building a house in the country with a huge front lawn(not our idea, it's
required by the community), and we are trying to decide how to handle it
(lawn service or mower) After reading some posts regarding these things
having "automatic transmissions" and how they make the job easier, I am
curious..I am sure they don't have transmission like a car which shifts
gears and such, but was wondering how they work? Can you slow down, stop
and go without having to disengage the gears and such? My guess is a
standard one with a clutch you would be clutching and going to get around
flowerbeds and such...Seems the auto is the way to go if your gonna have
one..But just curious as to how they actually work...



The clutch and gear transmission type are not as bad as
you might think. Yes you have to stop, shift, back up
and turn, stop, shift, etc. You get used to it after
awhile if the ergonomics aren't too bad. You need the
durability of gears if you are going to be pulling heavy
stuff around regularly, but the "automatics" are nice
if you are going to use it just for mowing or maybe drag
a little utility cart around.


Really? My 10 year old automatic tractor can drag a big homemade dump
cart around, like a 4' W by 5' L with 1' H sides, and golf cart wheels,
carrying dirt filled to the top of the rails. I have a ball hitch
installed on the back of my tractor to pull the cart. The only problem
towing it up some grades when full is that the drive wheels sometimes
skid on the grass. My set of wheel chains helps in those instances.
Also, I have a 48" snow blower attachment that weighs a couple of
hundred pounds and requires that I weigh down the back of the tractor
with wheel weights and a US Military GI can, filled with water, strapped
to the back of the tractor. My driveway is sloped and I have no problem
snowblowing while driving uphill.
Did I mention that the tractor was 10 years old?

I don't entirely like the term "automatic" as applied
here. I guess it's a sales thing, and who can understand
the murky workings of their minds ;-)

The best, IMO, is hydrostatic. These use a variable
displacement hydraulic pump driven by the engine and
a hydraulic motor geared to the wheels. The pump
displacement control usually connects to a single
lever or pedal which gives you continuous range from
forward thru stop thru reverse. Usually so reliable
you could just drive it for years with no attention
at all, although transmission fluid and maybe a filter
should be freshened up at relatively long service
intervals, and are easy to do.


My auto transmission does not have to be refreshed with fluid and there
is no filter.

Some of the cheapos use another approach with variable
width v-belt pulleys to get adjustable drive speed.
These work well enough new, but get "funny" with age
as the belts wear valleys in the pulley faces. Most
implementations have an in-line "shifter" with notches.
It is also possible with two belts or with a belt and
gear combination to get a single pedal or lever with
continuous range from forward to reverse, but that's
more engineering and most of them don't bother since
they are designing for low price. The belts wear out
and have to be replaced, and are usually not very easy
to do. Some even call it a hydra-something-or-other
drive to make you think you are getting a hydrostat,
when in reality it is something else not nearly as good.

Caveat emptor, you get what you pay for, etc.

I have all three, but the biggest drawback on mine (New Holland LS-55) is
that you can't use more than one at a time. Of course that isn't a problem
with the snowblower, but it is a pain to have to remove the mowing deck to
use the rototiller and vice versa. If I had it to do over, I would make
sure I could either use both at once OR that the attachments came off and on
really easy. In fact, have the dealer demonstrate what has to be done for
each implement to get them off and on, rather than taking their word for it.

DWW

"cb" wrote in message
news:XrK%c.159910$X12.89274@edtnps84...
Just a question to the group - does anyone use the rototiller option wit
their tractor? We'd like to invest in the tractor/mower, snowblower and
rototiller - don't really want 3 machines to house!

Thanks
Cathy

I thought I would throw my two centavos in here. I have 3/4 acres that I
have been cutting for about five years with a $300 MTD 12.5HP, 38" cut. I
have had to work on it quite a bit, especially at the beginning of this
grass season. It is in damn good shape now after replacing a support
bracket to the deck and rewiring it and replacing a bearing in the deck. I
think it was worth the price and I learned how the darn thing operates
rather well. So, I guess if you don't like mechanics, it would be the best
to buy new one. I am really impressed with the Cub Cadet. They are always
the winner's at the tractor pulls around here. The direct drive can't be
touched by the belt drives. For the HP, I think they are the best value.
If you can find a used one, I would jump on it in a heartbeat.

"Wyatt Wright" wrote in message
om...
I'm in the market for a new riding mower/lawn tractor. I mow about
3/4 acre of grass in a flat yard with few obstacles. The only thing
that I will do with this mower is cut grass and pick up leaves in the
fall. I may buy an airator in the future and possible a cart, but
that's it.

I may buy a cheaper model from a box store, but prefer to go with
something a little better built from a dealer that can service and
repair the unit in the future. For me, that means Toro or John Deere
- I'm not sure if there is a Cub Cadet or Simplicity dealer in my
area. I know many people love their Deere's, but I'm not sure that I
want to spend the $$ to get into the LT series and am unsure of the L
series' quality and general "Deereness". The Deere dealer told me
that the biggest issue with the L series is that the front axles need
to be greased frequently. Considering that I can get an L110 with 42"
cut and a 17.5 hp kohler for $1800, and a LT150 with a 15hp engine and
38" for $2500, greasing the front axle everytime I add gas doesn't
seem like that much of an issue. I would appreciate other's opinions.

I don't see many people posting their opinions or experiences with
Toro riders. I have worked with the dealer near me and have been
satisfied with his service. The only model that he carries in my
price range is the 16-38HXL. It is on sale for $1900 right now.

This is from the Toro website:
http://www.toro.com/home/tractors/xl/1638h.html

Please advise.

~ Wyatt

Jim wrote:
snip

We have a 214 that I bought in 1990 used.. had to put a couple
batteries in it (because it uses car sized batteries I usually pick
which car has the oldest battery in it, replace that battery, and
install the take-out in the 214). Couple of belts, other than that
haven't even tuned it up.

Currently having some problems with the belt tension system for the
mower deck drive, and as I am currently out of commision with double
hernia surgery we asked the daughter to take care of the lawn this
time around. Mentioned daughter tried to mow with the push behind, but
gave up and called her boyfriend, who brought over his family's old
mower, a JD 430. Watercooled 22hp diesel, 60" deck, Hydrostat trans,
differential lock, full hydraulics front and rear. Looks a little
rough, but mowed the yard without a problem.

They just bought a new mower to replace this one.. got a nice zero
turn radius JD. I asked what they planned to do with this one (the
430). They planned to sell it.

For $300

I took some pain meds, went and looked at it and told the wife, who
told him to unload it, we'll take it.

Sometimes you've just got to be in the right place at the right
time..

Regards,

Jim

We have a 214 JD bought new in 1979. Use it for mowing (half to
2/3 acre), blowing, and tilling. Used to till for neighbors but
now live where there is not much gardening. Mowed for a neighbor
that had hip replacement one year. Have done a lot of
snowblowing for myself and neighbors until a few years ago. (Now
have a small driveway.) Have replaced the drive belts once,
battery about 4 or 5 times, mower deck bearings and idlers a
couple of years ago (I forgot how quiet it was). I hope it lasts
another 25 years, unless of course I find a deal like Jim.

Roy (and anyone else),

The tiller for your JD317 was belt driven was it not? I'd heard that there
were problems with belt driven tillers. The local JD salesman where I live
said he rarely sells them. I'm looking at an JD LX 280. Would this model
with tiller do a good job breaking ground and keeping a garden tilled, in
your opinion?

Thanks.


"Roy" wrote in message
...
I would have to dissagree on needing gears if you pull heavy loads. I
would be hard pressed to believe the gears in most typical L & G
tractors are all that much stonger than a good hydrostatic drive unit.
MOst consumer type L & G tractors are offered as baaaseline units with
minimal everything be it gears or hydrostatic drives. I had a JD317
with over 4000 hours on it when I finally got rid of it, and it was a
hydrastatic drive, and it was used hard and put up wet all the time,
and it was used to pull more than what it should have all the time. I
used to drag around a trailer full of firewood that weighted about 5
or 6000 pounds. It was used for ground tillage and breaking in the
garden I had back then, 1 1/2 acres and it never missed a beat.

I now have a JD GX335 with hydro and its just as good as the 317
was..You do not need gears to pull things with and they certainly do
not make it any more efficient or stronger. The JD lineup of the L
series is built for light pulling loads as are most other similar
units.

Nnnothing could be easier and more trouble free than the layout JD
uses with their twin touch pedals. Throttle it up and go.......push
harder on the pedal you have ore speed and torque. No need to come to
a complete stop before hitting the reverse pedal either, so cycle time
and fuction is a lot quicker with a hydrastatic drive with twin pedals
than anay setup using strictly gears can even think about being. More
andmore heavy dury industrial equipment is being suypplied with
hydrostatic drives each year. Its a proven fact they are just as
strong when it comes to use and pulling with and will last just as
long.
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wife,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

Bonehenge wrote:

Mechanically, the regular transmission has metal gears that last
forever. The automatic transmissions have belts that can break. For
reliability a regular transmission is best. For convenience an
automatic transmission is best.

Have you ever heard of a hydrostatic transmission? Many better mowers
have them. They vary the ground speed hydraulically and are extremely
dependable.

Yes, but hydrostatic transmissions are not automatic transmissions.
They are manual infinitely variable transmissions. Automatic
transmissions shift automatically with the load, not with a lever. The
automatic transmissions are belt driven on cone pulleys. My Kawasaki
Mule has an automatic transmission, not a hydrostatic transmission.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 00:06:28 GMT, Bonehenge
wrote:

===On Sat, 11 Sep 2004 09:10:47 -0400, "S. M. Henning"
===wrote:
===
===
=== Have you ever heard of a hydrostatic transmission? Many better mowers
=== have them. They vary the ground speed hydraulically and are extremely
=== dependable.
===
===Yes, but hydrostatic transmissions are not automatic transmissions.
===They are manual infinitely variable transmissions. Automatic
===transmissions shift automatically with the load, not with a lever. The
===automatic transmissions are belt driven on cone pulleys. My Kawasaki
===Mule has an automatic transmission, not a hydrostatic transmission.
===
===Right! But why would anyone want one of those when they can have a
===hydrostatic drive? There are an awful lot of hydrostatic drive
===mowers on the market.
===
===Barry


For one reason a hydrostatic drive is much more smoother, and it does
adjust itself automatically according toload on a lot of models, but
its by applying more pressure, and no difference in shifting is felt
as it does not shift, it just applies more pressure for more torque
when needed. Put it in drive and go and forget about everything else.
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wife,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

Bonehenge wrote:

Right! But why would anyone want one of those when they can have a
hydrostatic drive? There are an awful lot of hydrostatic drive
mowers on the market.

Because some people don't have to keep changing the speed of their
mower. They let out the clutch and mow until it is done without
shifting. A hydrostatic would be a total waste. Why pay extra for
something you are never going to use. The dealers push them because
they make more money on them. Not everyone needs one.

I have arranged my 2 acres so that all obstacles have a nice round edge
that are easy to mow or I have a mow pattern that makes it easy to mow
all sides without backing up and slowing down.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

(Roy) wrote:

For one reason a hydrostatic drive is much more smoother, and it does
adjust itself automatically according toload on a lot of models

That is called the governor and it is on the engine, not the
transmission. The governor keeps the speed of the engine constant. All
tractors have engines where the speed is controlled by a governor. The
throttle just adjusts the spring on the governor.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman

On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 09:15:23 -0400, "S. M. Henning"
wrote:

===Bonehenge wrote:
===
=== Right! But why would anyone want one of those when they can have a
=== hydrostatic drive? There are an awful lot of hydrostatic drive
=== mowers on the market.
===
===Because some people don't have to keep changing the speed of their
===mower. They let out the clutch and mow until it is done without
===shifting. A hydrostatic would be a total waste. Why pay extra for
===something you are never going to use. The dealers push them because
===they make more money on them. Not everyone needs one.
===
===I have arranged my 2 acres so that all obstacles have a nice round edge
===that are easy to mow or I have a mow pattern that makes it easy to mow
===all sides without backing up and slowing down.


Now if this ain't the biggest bunch of bull**** I have ever
heard............Yea right, most folks put it in gear and lug the
tractor down, or mow at a snails pace or go to fast because they are
just to freaking lazy to select gears as needed. If it only needed one
gear why do manufacturers use 4 , 5 or 6 speeds, it wold even save
lots of money again in making them and buying them..........
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wife,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

On Sun, 12 Sep 2004 09:19:20 -0400, "S. M. Henning"
wrote:

(Roy) wrote:
===
=== For one reason a hydrostatic drive is much more smoother, and it does
=== adjust itself automatically according toload on a lot of models
===
===That is called the governor and it is on the engine, not the
===transmission. The governor keeps the speed of the engine constant. All
===tractors have engines where the speed is controlled by a governor. The
===throttle just adjusts the spring on the governor.


Bull**** again dude.....my engine is run at a constant speed, as power
erequirements change the flow out of the hydrostatic unit is changed
automatically , similar to a auto tranny would use that to shift gear
ranges, and only when I get it really loaded down does my engine rpm
change. You can even atch the governor linkage it does not
move.,..........so now I guess you will tell me its out of
adjustment.........Perhpas on a cheap assed Murray or Stanely that may
be how they woprk but the Cub Cadets and JD and Kubotas certainly
don;t
Visit my website: http://www.frugalmachinist.com
Opinions expressed are those of my wife,
I had no input whatsoever.
Remove "nospam" from email addy.

(Roy) wrote:

Bull**** again dude.....my engine is run at a constant speed,

That is what a governor does, it maintains the speed of the engine
constant. When there is a heavy load, the constant speed is putting out
more power so the engine needs more power. That works the same with a
standard transmission or a hydrostatic. No difference.

--
Pardon my spam deterrent; send email to
Cheers, Steve Henning in Reading, PA USA http://home.earthlink.net/~rhodyman