Water Heater Drain Pipes - PVC?
I recently had a house inspection conducted on a house I intend to
purchas. The inspection showed that PVC (not CPVC) was being used as the T&P drain. The inspector stated that this may not have been against code when it was built (8 years ago), but was not considered acceptable according to his standards. Is it truly a concern that the hot water drained would cause problems with potential melting of the PVC joints? There is access in the attic to replace a portion of the PVC up to where it goes into the wall. If I had the accessible PVC replaced with copper into a holding tank that subsequently connects to the PVC, would it be sufficient to cool the water enough? Is there a flexible hose option - similar to hot water hoses that connect to washing machines? I want to avoid any interior work where the lines go through the wall and drain outside. Any thoughts? |
wrote in message against code when it was built (8 years ago), but was not considered acceptable according to his standards. It has been oK for the 8 years though, right? Is it truly a concern that the hot water drained would cause problems with potential melting of the PVC joints? How often do you drain the tank and for how long? Flush the sediment once or twice a year for three minutes? If yo are draining the tank to replace it, the water is probably not hot anyway. There is access in the attic to replace a portion of the PVC up to where it goes into the wall. If I had the accessible PVC replaced with copper into a holding tank that subsequently connects to the PVC, would it be sufficient to cool the water enough? Yes, but why bother? Is there a flexible hose option - similar to hot water hoses that connect to washing machines? PEX would owrk I want to avoid any interior work where the lines go through the wall and drain outside. Any thoughts? My only thought is that you should just ignore it. Hot water under pressure for extended periods of time is a problem, IMO, but this is hardly a real use, has no pressure and probably not much temperature in reality. I'd just forget about it. Ed |
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Jason,
This is hardly a deal breaker. The inspector admits that it was (and may still be) acceptable practice to use PVC. He would prefer that it be another material but that's just a personal opinion. The T&P valve is a fail-safe and is not normally used. It is more than likely that no action on your part is needed until the water heater is replaced. My advice is leave it alone and don't worry about it. This is not a big deal. Dave M. |
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i had the same situation when i installed a new hot water heater.
i had to do some re-routing of the pvc from the t&p valve, so i used cpvc coming out of the t&p, then used an adapter (cpvc to pvc)just before the pvc went into the wall. but, like the others said, i wouldn't worry too much about it. wrote in message oups.com... I recently had a house inspection conducted on a house I intend to purchas. The inspection showed that PVC (not CPVC) was being used as the T&P drain. The inspector stated that this may not have been against code when it was built (8 years ago), but was not considered acceptable according to his standards. Is it truly a concern that the hot water drained would cause problems with potential melting of the PVC joints? There is access in the attic to replace a portion of the PVC up to where it goes into the wall. If I had the accessible PVC replaced with copper into a holding tank that subsequently connects to the PVC, would it be sufficient to cool the water enough? Is there a flexible hose option - similar to hot water hoses that connect to washing machines? I want to avoid any interior work where the lines go through the wall and drain outside. Any thoughts? |
"Joseph Meehan" wrote:
Also note: "The inspector stated that this may not have been against code when it was built (8 years ago), but was not considered acceptable according to his standards." I suggest his standards are just that. I don't believe (I could be wrong) that is generally a part of any building standard. Furthermore, home inspectors are supposed to be pointing out visual defects only. Codes are always evolving and a home built years ago will have multiple things that don't meet current code. Pointing out things that don't meet current code may make the inspector feel good, but are irrelevant. |
"Clark W. Griswold, Jr." wrote in message ... "Joseph Meehan" wrote: Also note: "The inspector stated that this may not have been against code when it was built (8 years ago), but was not considered acceptable according to his standards." I suggest his standards are just that. I don't believe (I could be wrong) that is generally a part of any building standard. Furthermore, home inspectors are supposed to be pointing out visual defects only. Codes are always evolving and a home built years ago will have multiple things that don't meet current code. Pointing out things that don't meet current code may make the inspector feel good, but are irrelevant. You mean like GFCIs? Inspectors always note the non-existance of these buggers in older homes. I think it's these details that the person that hired the inspector likes to hear about. What a pain in the butt for the seller though! Many buyers won't rest until everything is up to code, no matter how insignificant the item is. Simply ignorance. |
wrote in message
oups.com... The inspection showed that PVC (not CPVC) was being used as the T&P drain. The inspector stated that this may not have been against code when it was built (8 years ago), but was not considered acceptable according to his standards. Standards are what national and local authorities say are standards, enforced by legislation. The inspector's preferences may be based on professional experience but that does not make them standards. -- Don Phillipson Carlsbad Springs (Ottawa, Canada) |
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Many (possibly most) T&P valves have no pipe connected at all. In the
unlikely event of the valve actually doing what it is intended to do because of a heat source cutoff failure, large amounts of boiling water and steam would be released. If this should happen it would be good to have a pipe direct the water and steam safely outdoors or down near a concrete basement floor. Very unlikely, but possible. Don Young wrote in message oups.com... I recently had a house inspection conducted on a house I intend to purchas. The inspection showed that PVC (not CPVC) was being used as the T&P drain. The inspector stated that this may not have been against code when it was built (8 years ago), but was not considered acceptable according to his standards. Is it truly a concern that the hot water drained would cause problems with potential melting of the PVC joints? There is access in the attic to replace a portion of the PVC up to where it goes into the wall. If I had the accessible PVC replaced with copper into a holding tank that subsequently connects to the PVC, would it be sufficient to cool the water enough? Is there a flexible hose option - similar to hot water hoses that connect to washing machines? I want to avoid any interior work where the lines go through the wall and drain outside. Any thoughts? |
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Don Young wrote: Many (possibly most) T&P valves have no pipe connected at all. In the unlikely event of the valve actually doing what it is intended to do because of a heat source cutoff failure, large amounts of boiling water and steam would be released. If this should happen it would be good to have a pipe direct the water and steam safely outdoors or down near a concrete basement floor. Very unlikely, but possible. Don Young Yes. I think it is part of the installation instructions and also code in some jurisdictions. One time that the valve relieves pressure then fails to seat fully would pay for whatever the charge is to properly vent it, i.e., into a drain. Harry K |
wrote in message
oups.com... I recently had a house inspection conducted on a house I intend to purchas. The inspection showed that PVC (not CPVC) was being used as the T&P drain. The inspector stated that this may not have been against code when it was built (8 years ago), but was not considered acceptable according to his standards. Is it truly a concern that the hot water drained would cause problems with potential melting of the PVC joints? There is access in the attic to replace a portion of the PVC up to where it goes into the wall. If I had the accessible PVC replaced with copper into a holding tank that subsequently connects to the PVC, would it be sufficient to cool the water enough? Is there a flexible hose option - similar to hot water hoses that connect to washing machines? I want to avoid any interior work where the lines go through the wall and drain outside. Around here it has not been legal to use anything other metal pipe for the T & P for at least the last 20 years. The pipe must be the same size as the cold water line entering the water heater. The line must discharge to the outside and must not terminate more than 4" above the finished grade. Other than doing it to code, yours may be different, I can't suggest any anything. Colbyt |
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