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-   -   Proscan PS60682 is totally Dead (https://www.diybanter.com/electronics-repair/83128-proscan-ps60682-totally-dead.html)

scottmcnall December 25th 04 10:51 PM

Proscan PS60682 is totally Dead
 
I got a PS60682 from a friend. It is completly dead. Nothing happens at
all. The friend was told it would be 600.00 to replace the power supply,
no specifics beyond that. Where can I get scematics? Is it worth the
time? I have repaired TV's before so I'm not concerned about safety.
Merry Christmas!


Leonard Caillouet December 25th 04 11:10 PM

Post the chassis number. Many of us keep tips for TCE products by chassis
and not by model. You might want to rephrase your comment about safety.
Anyone with any TV repair experience, especially someone who has been away
from it for a while, should be very concerned about safety.

Leonard

"scottmcnall" wrote in message
lkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
I got a PS60682 from a friend. It is completly dead. Nothing happens at
all. The friend was told it would be 600.00 to replace the power supply,
no specifics beyond that. Where can I get scematics? Is it worth the
time? I have repaired TV's before so I'm not concerned about safety.
Merry Christmas!




scottmcnall December 26th 04 12:57 AM

I do apologize about the safety comment. What I meant was that I am
familiar with the charge from the HV power supply and the need to
discharge it prior to any attempt to repair. Several postings referred to
safety and I worded incorrectly. I will post the chassis number in my
next posting. Thank you for the feedback. Happy Holidays.


scottmcnall December 26th 04 04:09 PM

The Chassis model is PTK171ACC. As I had said earlier, it does nothing.
Not even a click. Thanks for your help. Happy Holidays.


Leonard Caillouet December 26th 04 04:39 PM

Sorry, this is a chassis that I have little experience with. The only notes
I have relate to some bad solder connections, but the set was not dead.
Someone who does more RCA might be more familiar with it. IIRC it is
similar to the 169 chassis, but I have no service lit on the 171 to verify
that.

Leonard

"scottmcnall" wrote in message
lkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
The Chassis model is PTK171ACC. As I had said earlier, it does nothing.
Not even a click. Thanks for your help. Happy Holidays.




[email protected] December 26th 04 05:39 PM

Honestly, stay away from that chassis. Unless you went to TCE's
training for the ctc170,ptk171, ctc172 chassis series, you do not want
to touch it. From lots of experience, the only ones who even had a
chance at repairing that chassis are those techs with years of
experience (especially on the ctc169) AND went to TCE's school on the
chassis.

That is a problem child that TCE doesn't even really want to support.
A lot of special parts were used in that chassis and are no longer
available.

If you have years of experience with the ctc169 and some experience
with the ctc170,171,172 series, and have the training manual set and
the service manuals for that ptk171 chassis, then have a go at it.

Beyond that advice, there is little that can be given without some real
heavy duty troubleshooting on your part. There are simply to many
different causes for that problem on that chassis. Let alone the pages
of tech tips that Thomson has for the series.

There were lots of standby power supply problems, 12v regulator circuit
problems (it is not a simple circuit either), system control issues,
BMOSD module problems, and on and on.....

David

scottmcnall wrote:
The Chassis model is PTK171ACC. As I had said earlier, it does

nothing.
Not even a click. Thanks for your help. Happy Holidays.



scottmcnall December 26th 04 07:42 PM

Thank you for the advice. Is it worth the $600.00 to have it repaired
professionaly? The TV was free to me. Am I looking at a problem child?
Seems I read enough out there to make me weary. Your thoughts are greatly
appreciated.


James Sweet December 26th 04 07:54 PM


"scottmcnall" wrote in message
lkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
Thank you for the advice. Is it worth the $600.00 to have it repaired
professionaly? The TV was free to me. Am I looking at a problem child?
Seems I read enough out there to make me weary. Your thoughts are greatly
appreciated.


Dunno, is it worth $600 to you?

That seems like a whole lot of money, perhaps you should get an estimate
from someone else, a dead set I would expect to cost more like $150-$200 to
have fixed if it's a big projection like I suspect.



James Sweet December 26th 04 07:55 PM


wrote in message
ups.com...
Honestly, stay away from that chassis. Unless you went to TCE's
training for the ctc170,ptk171, ctc172 chassis series, you do not want
to touch it. From lots of experience, the only ones who even had a
chance at repairing that chassis are those techs with years of
experience (especially on the ctc169) AND went to TCE's school on the
chassis.



Well if the thing is not worth paying a tech to fix then there's little to
lose by doing a bit of poking around, so long as one knows the basic safety
stuff.



Alan Harriman December 26th 04 09:14 PM

On 26 Dec 2004 09:39:11 -0800, wrote:

Honestly, stay away from that chassis. Unless you went to TCE's
training for the ctc170,ptk171, ctc172 chassis series, you do not want
to touch it. From lots of experience, the only ones who even had a
chance at repairing that chassis are those techs with years of
experience (especially on the ctc169) AND went to TCE's school on the
chassis.


I agree. I get about one or two of those sets a year. In fact, I just
repaired a CTC170 direct view. I had to modify my Telematic test jig
to accommodate the progressive scan 2H horz frequency. Luckily, it was
a dead set, requiring a fairly straight forward power supply repair.
About a year ago, we serviced a CTC171 projection with a highly
intermittent horz twitch, now that was a bear.

To the original questioner, the set utilizes a "light box" assembly
which can removed from the cabinet and transported to the shop for
repair. Be sure to advise the servicer it's a CTC171 progressive scan
chassis. Ask if they are familiar with the chassis and have the
service literature available. It's an interesting set, but I probably
would't advise investing more than $300 to $350.

Alan Harriman





That is a problem child that TCE doesn't even really want to support.
A lot of special parts were used in that chassis and are no longer
available.

If you have years of experience with the ctc169 and some experience
with the ctc170,171,172 series, and have the training manual set and
the service manuals for that ptk171 chassis, then have a go at it.

Beyond that advice, there is little that can be given without some real
heavy duty troubleshooting on your part. There are simply to many
different causes for that problem on that chassis. Let alone the pages
of tech tips that Thomson has for the series.

There were lots of standby power supply problems, 12v regulator circuit
problems (it is not a simple circuit either), system control issues,
BMOSD module problems, and on and on.....

David

scottmcnall wrote:
The Chassis model is PTK171ACC. As I had said earlier, it does

nothing.
Not even a click. Thanks for your help. Happy Holidays.



BWL December 27th 04 03:13 AM

I have also seen coolant leakage problems on this series, as well as the always
failing H.V. block

Tom MacIntyre December 27th 04 03:08 PM

On Sun, 26 Dec 2004 11:39:29 -0500, "Leonard Caillouet"
wrote:

Sorry, this is a chassis that I have little experience with. The only notes
I have relate to some bad solder connections, but the set was not dead.
Someone who does more RCA might be more familiar with it. IIRC it is
similar to the 169 chassis, but I have no service lit on the 171 to verify
that.

Leonard


I have never worked on them, but, if memory serves, the 170 and 171
were nasty chassis' to work on.

Tom


"scottmcnall" wrote in message
alkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
The Chassis model is PTK171ACC. As I had said earlier, it does nothing.
Not even a click. Thanks for your help. Happy Holidays.




AshTray700 December 28th 04 06:42 PM

if its totally dead with no relay clicks check parts in standby area, you
can try to force that relay in the on position as well



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