Repairing key on IMac keyboard
 

What is the story on the standard (small blue) USB keyboard? I have suddenly
got two in with one key on each not working and can't find a reference to
this on Google.

Is this a known problem? Is there a simple cure such as unscrew the lower
panel off and run a cleaner over the contacts? Or dip it in a tub or spray
inside with WD-40? Or do none of these 'solutions' work because the problem
is internal and electrical?

Nobody on the Mac hardware forum seemed to know what I thought must be a
reasonalby obvious question

Licensed to Quill

Licensed to Quill ) wrote:
: What is the story on the standard (small blue) USB keyboard? I have suddenly
: got two in with one key on each not working and can't find a reference to
: this on Google.

: Is this a known problem? Is there a simple cure such as unscrew the lower
: panel off and run a cleaner over the contacts? Or dip it in a tub or spray
: inside with WD-40? Or do none of these 'solutions' work because the problem
: is internal and electrical?

: Nobody on the Mac hardware forum seemed to know what I thought must be a
: reasonalby obvious question


It's pointless to fix.

The Mac keyboards are basically the same as most cheap wintel ones, two
giant sized peices of mylar with the painted-on grey conductive strips,
mashed together via a rubber "spring" between the key and top mylar.

Chances are, like buttons that wear out on remote controls, the conductive
pad is probably worn out. Even if you know for a fact the key died because
of a coffee spill or whatever, the disassembly and reassembly is time
consuming and not likely to do any good in the end.

The major problem is those rubber bumpers, you'll have 106 of them rolling
out when you take off the backplate and reseating them so they are all in
place while trying to put back 36 badly machined screws, is not for the
easily frustrated.

If you google around there actually are several websites with blow-by-blow
details of trying to repair the Mac Pro Keyboard, which is an expensive
(although no real reason why) peice of hardware. Estimated times for the job
is 4 to 6 hours.

There is no reason you can't use a regular made-for-wintel usb keyboard.
Electronically they are the same except for 4 keys (volume up/down/mute and
cd eject). If those are important to you, other companies like MacAlly sell
suitable replacements starting at $20.

There are few keyboards out there that don't use the mylar/rubber "switch"
anymore. And those that do use traditional mechanical switches are very
expensive, well over $100, closer to $200.

Soaking the keyboard in anything will just ruin it. The liquid will get
between the mylar sheets and stay there. Even if it evaporates, if there is
any residue, it'll clog the pads.

It's just another consumer item meant to be tossed when broken.

-bruce

Well that pretty much answers myt question, especially as I have just
obtained a MS keyboard with a USB connector and didnt actually know tjhat
you could use them intercahngeably]

Now however i have a more pressing problem about which I need to get an
answer: This was one broken system.

When I turn it on, nothing happens on the screen or in the computer beyond
the power button light light and fan coming on when I press the button on
the keyboard or on the unit itself. No gong, no perceivable HDD activity
etc

Is there some sort of reset button or start sequence I can try (I am not
sure I can get as far as doing anything with the keyboard??) or is it time
to open the thing up and start looking around inside it for blown fuses on
the power supply? (If so, how or is it worthwhile or is the problem
OBVIOUSLY the whole power supply in this situation, - is this a known set of
circumstances as well)?