RG6 coax into house thru wall
 

Hi,

What gadgets are being used to feed RG6 coax from an outside wall of
my house, thru that lath and plaster wall, into a TV set on the inside
of that wall. At Home Depot, all I find are small diameter white nylon
bushings. Instructions are drill holes into wall and insdie and outside.
Insert the bushings, feed the RG6 thru the bushings. Seal each bushing
with RTV.

What are cable TV installers or TV shop installers using as the
feed-thru tube? Do these tubes have water tight seals at each end?
Where can I buy these feed-thru tubes if they are used?

Thank you for any helpful hints.
Dave_S

In many installations on the outside they just drill a hole, insert the
cable and seal everything with silicon.... on the inside of the house the
cable may terminate into a wall mounted feed-through bulkhead
connector/jack.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Dave_s" wrote in message
...
Hi,

What gadgets are being used to feed RG6 coax from an outside wall of
my house, thru that lath and plaster wall, into a TV set on the inside
of that wall. At Home Depot, all I find are small diameter white nylon
bushings. Instructions are drill holes into wall and insdie and outside.
Insert the bushings, feed the RG6 thru the bushings. Seal each bushing
with RTV.

What are cable TV installers or TV shop installers using as the
feed-thru tube? Do these tubes have water tight seals at each end?
Where can I buy these feed-thru tubes if they are used?

Thank you for any helpful hints.
Dave_S

You don't necessarily need the tube unless the wire doesn't want to cooperate
and go through to the inside. A coathanger can fix that.

When you seal the tube to the outside siding or whatever, you are still sealing
to the outside layer. The compromise to the "R" factor of the wall is very
small as long as it's sealed with RTV.

Using the tube, however, results in a more professional looking job, if you
want to retain all of the "R" value you should find a way to use silicone all
the way down the tube, or somehow maybe that expanding foam stuff.

More importantly, make sure you know how and put a drip loop in it. This is all
in which way you staple the wire, do it so the wire ultimately comes Uup/U
to the hole, tube or not. I'm sure there are examples on the net somewhere or
something. Basically all forms of sealant eventually fail, and with a drip loop
you get 10 years before there's a problem instead of 2, as long as you keep
that rain from running down the wire right into the hole. Then, gravity is your
friend :).

My two cents, hmm lemme see, that's not even ¼ of a cigarette, hmm it's closer
to ¼ of a 12 oz. beer. Damn, I bet you could drink two cents worth of gasoline
these days without dying.

We are going to have to raise our rates, but don't worry about it.

JURB

Also, ground block located either outside or inside allowing proper
grounding of the cable to a known earth. I see a lot of professional
installations having the ground block located outside the building, at the
bottom of the drip loop, with the ground wire going to a known good earth
return source like the cold water pipe. Not the gas main, yes I have seen
quite a few that some idiot has connected the ground wire actually to the
black metal gas line rather than a water pipe. Nothing amazes me any more
about what ignorance abounds!!
"JURB6006" wrote in message
...
You don't necessarily need the tube unless the wire doesn't want to
cooperate
and go through to the inside. A coathanger can fix that.

When you seal the tube to the outside siding or whatever, you are still
sealing
to the outside layer. The compromise to the "R" factor of the wall is very
small as long as it's sealed with RTV.

Using the tube, however, results in a more professional looking job, if
you
want to retain all of the "R" value you should find a way to use silicone
all
the way down the tube, or somehow maybe that expanding foam stuff.

More importantly, make sure you know how and put a drip loop in it. This
is all
in which way you staple the wire, do it so the wire ultimately comes
Uup/U
to the hole, tube or not. I'm sure there are examples on the net somewhere
or
something. Basically all forms of sealant eventually fail, and with a drip
loop
you get 10 years before there's a problem instead of 2, as long as you
keep
that rain from running down the wire right into the hole. Then, gravity is
your
friend :).

My two cents, hmm lemme see, that's not even ¼ of a cigarette, hmm it's
closer
to ¼ of a 12 oz. beer. Damn, I bet you could drink two cents worth of
gasoline
these days without dying.

We are going to have to raise our rates, but don't worry about it.

JURB