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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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conductive Path on printed circuit board?
Hello,
I had been having a recurring problem with a model WV-38A RCA VOM that I built from a kit way back in the day. For resistance measurements it uses 4 AA cells and 1 D cell. Over the last couple of years sometimes it worked fine and at other times the meter wouldn't budge, regardless if voltage, current or resistance was to be measured. I couldn't find anything amiss either- no blown fuse, broken circuit board traces or faulty or oxidized wafer switch contacts. I spotted some green (apparently conducting) material on a circuit board trace near a battery holder that had also migrated to other parts of the board. I think the material came from a leaky battery. I cleaned it off with rubbing alcohol and the VOM once again seems to be working reliably. Has anyone had a similar problem? Thanks for your time and comment. Sincerely, -- J. B. Wood e-mail: |
#2
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conductive Path on printed circuit board?
A friend of mine brought over his ADT pushbutton panel the other day, reporting it "not working". It is fed from the back either by a 4.5V power-supply (wall-wart) or 3 x AA batteries in a pocket between the body and the wall-mount. Two things had happened:
a) The little SMT power-jack had pulled away on two of the four tabs. That was a quick fix. b) In some previous time, one of the batteries had leaked and there was a large build-up of green salts concealed under the batteries. He had installed new batteries, but the salts had bridged connections, causing them to short. I used an electric drafting eraser and dental picks to get all the corrosion out and soldered over the traces. It works. NOTE: Those salts are deliquescent - meaning that they attract water out of the air - so no surprise on the migration. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#3
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conductive Path on printed circuit board?
On 2020/11/17 6:59 a.m., Peter W. wrote:
A friend of mine brought over his ADT pushbutton panel the other day, reporting it "not working". It is fed from the back either by a 4.5V power-supply (wall-wart) or 3 x AA batteries in a pocket between the body and the wall-mount. Two things had happened: a) The little SMT power-jack had pulled away on two of the four tabs. That was a quick fix. b) In some previous time, one of the batteries had leaked and there was a large build-up of green salts concealed under the batteries. He had installed new batteries, but the salts had bridged connections, causing them to short. I used an electric drafting eraser and dental picks to get all the corrosion out and soldered over the traces. It works. NOTE: Those salts are deliquescent - meaning that they attract water out of the air - so no surprise on the migration. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA White vinegar 50:50 with water is a good neutralizer for the alkaline salts. Foams up then washes off...got that tip back in the late 80s or early 90s from Duracell (or Eveready) mail in tech support. Have long since lost the letter... CLR also works, it too is a mild base. John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
#4
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conductive Path on printed circuit board?
https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/i...QfPCQ&usqp=CAU
I keep one of these back from my college days, together with various inserts from "kiss a soap bubble" to "peel chrome from a trailer-hitch". They do an amazing job of cleaning everything from contacts to dirty plastic. The marl is non-conductive although the material removed may be. Peter Wieck Melrose Park,PA |
#5
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conductive Path on printed circuit board?
On Tue, 17 Nov 2020 09:10:11 -0500, "J.B. Wood"
wrote: Has anyone had a similar problem? Thanks for your time and comment. Sincerely, Oh yes, many times. I have a fairly large number of alkaline battery powered devices. Around 1995, alkaline batteries were reformulated to remove lead from the "stabilizer" that kept the batteries from leaking. Since then, 5 to 10 years is about the average shelf life before they begin leaking. These died in the box after about 8 years: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Kirkland-AAA-leak.jpg Instead of alkaline, try substituting a lithium (not a lithium ion) cell. These are more expensive, have a much longer shelf life, and don't leak. The AA cells, this should work with 20 year life: https://www.energizer.com/batteries/energizer-ultimate-lithium-batteries For the D cell, just use a 1x AA to D cell adapter: https://www.ebay.com/itm/353243622867 The down sides of using lithium is the cost and that they are not rechargeable. For a VOM/DVM, a few extra dollars over a 20 year operating life is negligible. Just do it. You can also substitute LiIon or NiMH cells, but these require some compromises. The LiIon cell is a nominal 3.6V with a maximum of 4V. Plug 4x 14500 LiIon cells into a device made for 4x 14500 alkaline cells and your RCA VOM will blow up. You can try running the VOM on 2x 14500 LiIon cells if the design will handle running on 8V instead of 6V. Or, you can install some series diodes in the VOM to drop the voltage to 6V. For the D cell, I wouldn't bother as the required 2.5v drop will be a major waste of power. You can also use NiMH cells, which are approximately the correct voltage. The problem here is the cheap cells have a high self discharge rate and will need to be recharged quite often. Fortunately, there are plenty of LSD (low self discharge) NiMH cells available, such as Eneloop. For the D cell, use the previously mentioned AA to D adapter. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
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