Hi, I just acquired one of the Smirnoff lightning lamps from a local
sale. Unfortunately, it worked for an hour and then stopped and hasn't
worked since. I took off the bottom cover which revealed a small
flyback, what looks like a couple of mosfets, a driver transformer or
two, and maybe a timer.

Specifically, it is called the "Smirnoff Tempest Bar Glorifier" made in
Korea for Neu Solutions. Unfortunately, they haven't been made in
nearly 20 years.

Does anyone know of a service manual and/or schematic for this device?
I'm having no luck googling for it.

Fortunately, I am going to be able to borrow a working unit. If anyone
wants to roll up their sleeves and help me troubleshoot using the
working one as a template, please share. I'd be more than willing to
post pictures of the circuit board, components, etc.

I think the first thing I will do with the working unit is take
resistance readings of all components while off and discharged. Then,
while on, take voltage readings of the same. I don't have enough
experience to try reverse engineering a schematic which is why it would
be oh so helpful to find one from the manufacturer.

Any information provided would be welcome. I'd really like to get my
broken one back in working order again! Tips, measurements, etc
welcome.

Thanks in advance,
Tempy

I would start over with an entirely new power-supply, if you are so-inclined. You will get better reliability, at least, than dealing with 20-30 year old components.

https://www.teslaboys.com/Plasma/PlasmaPower/index.html

http://amasci.com/tesla/sstesla.gif

....of dozens of possibilities.

If your flyback is good, you may only need to "fix" the driver section.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

On 1/28/20 11:51 AM, wrote:
I would start over with an entirely new power-supply, if you are so-inclined. You will get better reliability, at least, than dealing with 20-30 year old components.

https://www.teslaboys.com/Plasma/PlasmaPower/index.html

http://amasci.com/tesla/sstesla.gif

...of dozens of possibilities.

If your flyback is good, you may only need to "fix" the driver section.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


That was my thought (new flyback supply) if I couldn't get the current
one working. The flyback is a smaller one and reminds me of the kind
used in portable TV's of the past. I may try taking readings of the HV
in the borrowed unit as I have a HV probe, but from experience this may
or may not be successful depending on how much the probe loads the circuit.

I'm going to have to take resistance readings of the flyback in the
borrowed unit and then compare them with mine.

.... this group exists to teach people the hard way of doing things - rather than the correct, effective or efficient way.

Anon.

a) Verify the flyback as correct. This can be done cold with simple resistance readings.
b) Verify the power-transformer. This can also be done cold with simple resistance readings.
c) Build a new power-supply - looks like about US$10 worth, including the heat-sink. Less transformers, of course, if needed.
d) Even both transformers should be able to be had for less than US$20.

If you start screwing around with the borrowed unit, you may have two dead devices on your hands. By your own admission, you are not a highly experienced expert in these things, so I am suggesting you err on the side of caution.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

On Tuesday, January 28, 2020 at 1:58:26 PM UTC-5, Tempestinatesttube wrote:

By the way, one thing I don't like seeing is no power transformer. I
believe this was line powered. Ouch!


Line-powered to the flyback - which isolates as well.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

On 1/28/20 11:51 AM, wrote:
I would start over with an entirely new power-supply, if you are so-inclined. You will get better reliability, at least, than dealing with 20-30 year old components.

https://www.teslaboys.com/Plasma/PlasmaPower/index.html

http://amasci.com/tesla/sstesla.gif

...of dozens of possibilities.

If your flyback is good, you may only need to "fix" the driver section.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


Ok, today, I have my hands on the borrowed unit. The kind soul who
loaned it said to be prepared to shell out $50 if I end up "breaking
it". Since they seem to go for well over that online, this isn't an end
all, but I still want to be as careful as possible.

I think I'm going to start with my broken one by taking pictures of the
components side and then the board side. I may try superimposing them
together in Photoshop. It might make not only troubleshooting easier,
but I *may* be able to draw a schematic later. Also, I shouldn't have
to disassemble his at all, just readings from the underside once I know
what is what.

At some point, I will post these images on imgur.