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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#41
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Does this device exist?
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#42
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Does this device exist?
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#43
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Does this device exist?
On Wednesday, 2 October 2019 13:02:17 UTC+1, wrote:
On Wednesday, October 2, 2019 at 6:58:54 AM UTC-4, tabby wrote: such demand management is perfectly legal here. The US has three levels of "management" for electrical (and other) devices: a) The National Electrical Code (NEC): This regulates hard-wired systems and switchgear, and how peripheral devices are connected to the system - such as light fixtures and other devices not plugged in. A hard-wired relay would be considered "switchgear" and therefore covered. b) UL (Underwriters Laboratory) - this is a 'family' of such bodies, of which UL is the most prevalent: UL regulates those devices that connect to the system above, and has to do with (among many other things) grounding, electrical safety, loading, and so forth. This applies to stand-alone (complete) devices. Note that such devices are "LISTED", not "approved". c) UR (Recognized): This applies to individual components within a system - such as a relay in a control, or similar. That part does not stand alone.. but may be replaceable. So, if one has a UL device of several parts, one fails, then that part *must* be replaced with a UR part to retain the UL listing. Why it matters: There is this funny thing called "insurance". And if one has property insurance, and reads the fine print, it will refer to things meeting code and being properly inspected and so forth. It will also refer to 'connected devices' or any number of other words for whatever one has to plug into the wall as being "listed". Should that hand-made relay you are referring to cause a fire and cause damage such that the property owner makes a claim - and should the insurance inspector (and there will be one) determine that the cause was this unlisted/unrecognized device - OOPS! Either the Company will not pay, or if it does, it will then immediately cancel the policy. And the property owner will be quite challenged to get insurance in the future at any reasonable cost.. Nothing that was done was "illegal". And Code Violations are not "illegal". Just stupid. Something you continue not to understand. And the advice you give continues to suffer for it. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA of no relevance to us here in the UK. |
#45
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Does this device exist?
On Wednesday, 2 October 2019 21:22:21 UTC+1, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says... They are available here in the Netherlands, and are/were commonly used to connect a washer and a dryer to a single circuit. These boxes cover the same situation, where a washing machine consumes a lot of power during the phase where it heats the water and could trip the breaker when a dryer which also uses a lot of power is used at the same time. Interisting. I guess where you are at the circuit is around 240 volts for everything. Here in the states most washers use 120 volts and the dryers are on the 240 volt circuit. That way they can be ran at the same time as the wires go back to the breaker box. I don't know how others do it,but many days my wife will wash 2 or 3 loads of cloths. She will be drying the first load while the 2nd one is washing to save time. If it really is just the drier that's the problem, there are better ways to dry things anyway, eg fan & dehumidifier. NT |
#46
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Does this device exist?
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#47
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Does this device exist?
On Monday, September 30, 2019 at 8:47:15 AM UTC-7, wrote:
My brother's wife wants a small water heater under the kitchen sink. ... There is a receptacle under the sink but it also powers the diswasher. I am concerned that if both the dishwasher and the water heater are on at the same time it will pop the breaker. Breakers (thermal type) can tolerate a short-duration overcurrent, so all you really need is a low-voltage AC relay, coil in series with... the water heater. Problem: if it turns off the dishwasher, does the electronic controller forget that it was in a cycle, or on a timer, and stay OFF? Old dishwasher controls (cam and motor) would continue after interruption. Turn it around the other way, and sense current into the dishwasher, turning off the water heater... but the dishwasher has a complex cycle, not a constant current at all, how would you know the right current-draw threshold? It can be done, but running another circuit to the kitchen is easier. While you're at it, see if 240V heaters are available, the wire won't have to be as heavy... |
#48
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Does this device exist?
Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article , says... They are available here in the Netherlands, and are/were commonly used to connect a washer and a dryer to a single circuit. These boxes cover the same situation, where a washing machine consumes a lot of power during the phase where it heats the water and could trip the breaker when a dryer which also uses a lot of power is used at the same time. Interisting. I guess where you are at the circuit is around 240 volts for everything. Here in the states most washers use 120 volts and the dryers are on the 240 volt circuit. That way they can be ran at the same time as the wires go back to the breaker box. I don't know how others do it,but many days my wife will wash 2 or 3 loads of cloths. She will be drying the first load while the 2nd one is washing to save time. Here we have 230v line for all purposes (except industrial stuff which users 3x230v 3-phase, 400v between phases). The problem would only occur in older installations where there is only a single circuit of maybe only 10A. Nowadays all circuits in homes are 230V/16A. So you can use a total of 3.6kW which should be enough, or else you could have 2 circuits. Main fuse is usually 35A. |
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