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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil
Circumstances: Dynaco SCA-35 that may be best described as "neglected" , as follows:
Filthy with greasy grit - what I would consider to be kitchen-type grease mixed with black grit similar to what landed on windowsills when I grew up in NYC, with regular dust co-mingled. To the point that individual components on the boards were very nearly indistinguishable. Most of the controls sprayed with white lithium grease that had hardened to near-concrete status. Most of the rotary controls frozen - hard. The exceptions being the rear hum-pots that had never been touched, and so remained operable. Process: Rinse the entire shebang in WD-40, purchased in bulk and delivered via pressurized refillable aerosol can. Probably a pint used overall. Done over a trash-can with some kitty-litter on the bottom. This loosened the skunge. Rinse with CRC, over the same trash-can after 24 hours. This pretty much removed the _EXPOSED_ skunge on the controls, switches and boards. All of a sudden individual components became visible. Flushed the controls with WD and CRC - amazing the amount of waxy crap that came out. Wipe down with lint-free cloth, stiff artists' oil brushes and high-proof isopropyl alcohol. Apply lubricating cleaner to all rotary and sliding controls. Apply Liquid Wrench to all shafts. 24 hours. 3 of 5 controls were free. Bass & Selector-switch still frozen, hard. Apply Kroil. 12 hours. Re-apply Kroil. All shafts are free. More basic cleaning. Check _every_ connection with a dental pick. Tighten all tube bases. Apply power, no tubes. All good. 40 minutes, no unusual heat signatures. Add tubes. Short inputs. As above, draws 85 watts, below nameplate of 110 watts. 1 hour, all voltages stable and correct. Add speakers and signal - Voila! Sound, hum and buzz-free. All controls working properly. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#2
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WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil
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#3
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WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil
On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 11:09:38 AM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
On 2/11/19 9:54 AM, wrote: Apply lubricating cleaner to all rotary and sliding controls. Apply Liquid Wrench to all shafts. 24 hours. 3 of 5 controls were free. Bass & Selector-switch still frozen, hard. Apply Kroil. 12 hours. Re-apply Kroil. Which is why I use Kroil and don't waste my time on other products. Jeff: Using Kroil as cleaner/rinse would be wildly expensive! And of all the Dynaco products, the SCA 35 and ST 35 are amongst the lease amenable to going through a dishwasher. Between the cloth-lead transformers with open bells and fish-paper insulation and other issues, the risk is just too great - or that would have been my first choice in this case. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#4
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WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil
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#5
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WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil
On Monday, February 11, 2019 at 10:54:45 AM UTC-5, wrote:
Circumstances: Dynaco SCA-35 that may be best described as "neglected" , as follows: Filthy with greasy grit - what I would consider to be kitchen-type grease mixed with black grit similar to what landed on windowsills when I grew up in NYC, with regular dust co-mingled. To the point that individual components on the boards were very nearly indistinguishable. Most of the controls sprayed with white lithium grease that had hardened to near-concrete status. Most of the rotary controls frozen - hard. The exceptions being the rear hum-pots that had never been touched, and so remained operable. Process: Rinse the entire shebang in WD-40, purchased in bulk and delivered via pressurized refillable aerosol can. Probably a pint used overall. Done over a trash-can with some kitty-litter on the bottom. This loosened the skunge. Rinse with CRC, over the same trash-can after 24 hours. This pretty much removed the _EXPOSED_ skunge on the controls, switches and boards. All of a sudden individual components became visible. Flushed the controls with WD and CRC - amazing the amount of waxy crap that came out. Wipe down with lint-free cloth, stiff artists' oil brushes and high-proof isopropyl alcohol. Apply lubricating cleaner to all rotary and sliding controls. Apply Liquid Wrench to all shafts. 24 hours. 3 of 5 controls were free. Bass & Selector-switch still frozen, hard. Apply Kroil. 12 hours. Re-apply Kroil. All shafts are free. I've got a jar of Kroil from my neighbor. I read somewhere about ATF* plus acetone and a third thing.. ethyl alcohol? that was 'better' for unsticking nuts and bolts. I never tried it. George H. *Automatic Transmission Fluid More basic cleaning. Check _every_ connection with a dental pick. Tighten all tube bases. Apply power, no tubes. All good. 40 minutes, no unusual heat signatures. Add tubes. Short inputs. As above, draws 85 watts, below nameplate of 110 watts. 1 hour, all voltages stable and correct. Add speakers and signal - Voila! Sound, hum and buzz-free. All controls working properly. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
#6
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WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil
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#7
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WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil
On Tue, 12 Feb 2019 20:07:39 -0600, Fox's Mercantile
wrote: On 2/12/19 7:34 PM, wrote: I've got a jar of Kroil from my neighbor. I read somewhere about ATF* plus acetone and a third thing.. ethyl alcohol? that was 'better' for unsticking nuts and bolts. I never tried it. George H. *Automatic Transmission Fluid Actually, it's a little better than Kroil. http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/212342.jpg But, to me, it's not worth my time ****ing around playing "Junior Chemist" When I can just buy something that works. Works well, and works repeatedly well. That depends on how its tested and who's doing the testing: "Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs [Spoiler] See graph at: https://youtu.be/xUEob2oAKVs?t=516 Best Heat (using a torch) Liquid Wrench Acetone/ATF Royal Purple WD-40 PB Blaster Aero Kroll Dry Worst. The problem with these results is that most of the penetrating oils seem not much better than torquing an unlubricated rusty bolt. To me, that looks like something might be wrong with the proceedure or application method. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#8
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WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil
On 2/12/19 9:54 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
That depends on how its tested and who's doing the testing: "Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs I've seen this before, I serious question his results. -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com |
#9
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WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil
On Tue, 12 Feb 2019 22:24:11 -0600, Fox's Mercantile
wrote: On 2/12/19 9:54 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: That depends on how its tested and who's doing the testing: "Which Penetrating Oil is Best? Let's find out!" https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs I've seen this before, I serious question his results. I'm starting to think that penetrating oils don't help much with the initial torque required to break a fastener loose. But once even a little movement happens the oil can then act as a lubricant and help prevent galling as the fasteners are turned. But I am not convinced because of one particular case. An antique rifle of mine has a flip up peep sight. The peep sight can be adjusted by turning a knurled collar. When I got the rifle it was obvious that the collar was stuck pretty good because there was damage to the knurl from pliers. I tried various penetrating oil over the years and could never get the collar to trurn. Then a few years ago I tried using some Break Free on the thing. I wet the assembly in the evening and the next morning I was able to turn the collar with just my fingers. Not easily at first. But I was able to get the thing apart and it was rust that washed out of the collar and off of the screw. Eric |
#10
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WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil
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#11
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WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil
On Wed, 13 Feb 2019 16:38:51 -0500, Ralph Mowery
wrote: In article , says... he collar was stuck pretty good because there was damage to the knurl from pliers. I tried various penetrating oil over the years and could never get the collar to trurn. Then a few years ago I tried using some Break Free on the thing. I wet the assembly in the evening and the next morning I was able to turn the collar with just my fingers. Not easily at first. But I was able to get the thing apart and it was rust that washed out of the collar and off of the screw. Eric Waiting overnight or even 2 or so days making sure the part stay wet often works very well. Many will spray the part and expect it to be free in about 10 seconds. I know about the waiting bit. I had tried that several times on the sight. Then gave up for years. Then tried the Break Free stuff. I'm not sure why it wouked when nothing else did. Eric |
#12
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WD-40, CRC 'Lectra-Clean, Liquid Wrench, and Kroil
I've always had reasonable success heating the part, then as it cools applying PB Blaster. Time. Then applying mechanical impact -- that seems to be the trifecta.
A few taps with a hammer, or an impact wrench, or the back of a crescent wrench, almost without fail will loosen the suspect nut or bolt. |
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