I ran the clean cycle on our Cuisinart DCC-2650 coffee maker, but then
when I went to rinse it with clean water it didn't heat up.

I removed the screws from the metal bottom plate, but it seems that that
was a mistake, because when I removed the deep-set screws in the plastic
part of the bottom and removed the whole bottom everything was
disconnected from that metal plate, and I can't see exactly where
everything fitted.

More precisely: there is a Q8025J6 Triac hanging by its wire leads,
which are held against the edge of a clear plastic part, and an aluminum
plate (heat sink) but I can't figure out exactly how they go back together.

And IAC if the Triac is the problem, so far I've only found companies
selling them in minimum lots of 50.

Perce

On 10/10/18 6:44 PM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:

I ran the clean cycle on our Cuisinart DCC-2650 coffee maker, but then
when I went to rinse it with clean water it didn't heat up.

I removed the screws from the metal bottom plate, but it seems that that
was a mistake, because when I removed the deep-set screws in the plastic
part of the bottom and removed the whole bottom everything was
disconnected from that metal plate, and I can't see exactly where
everything fitted.

More precisely: there is a Q8025J6 Triac hanging by its wire leads,
which are held against the edge of a clear plastic part, and an aluminum
plate (heat sink) but I can't figure out exactly how they go back together.

And IAC if the Triac is the problem, so far I've only found companies
selling them in minimum lots of 50.

I figured out how everything goes back together, but of course it still
didn't work, so I did a little probing with the bottom (plastic plus
metal plus everything attached to the metal again) off and the thing
plugged in. I measured 120V across the outer shells of what I assume are
thermal fuses with their leads spot-welded to the terminals of the
heating element, but nothing across the terminals of the element. One of
those thermal fuses is bad, but with no way of spot-welding a
replacement in place is there any practical way of fixing it?

Perce

On Thursday, October 11, 2018 at 9:35:28 AM UTC-4, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
On 10/10/18 6:44 PM, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:

I ran the clean cycle on our Cuisinart DCC-2650 coffee maker, but then
when I went to rinse it with clean water it didn't heat up.

I removed the screws from the metal bottom plate, but it seems that that
was a mistake, because when I removed the deep-set screws in the plastic
part of the bottom and removed the whole bottom everything was
disconnected from that metal plate, and I can't see exactly where
everything fitted.

More precisely: there is a Q8025J6 Triac hanging by its wire leads,
which are held against the edge of a clear plastic part, and an aluminum
plate (heat sink) but I can't figure out exactly how they go back together.

And IAC if the Triac is the problem, so far I've only found companies
selling them in minimum lots of 50.

I figured out how everything goes back together, but of course it still
didn't work, so I did a little probing with the bottom (plastic plus
metal plus everything attached to the metal again) off and the thing
plugged in. I measured 120V across the outer shells of what I assume are
thermal fuses with their leads spot-welded to the terminals of the
heating element, but nothing across the terminals of the element. One of
those thermal fuses is bad, but with no way of spot-welding a
replacement in place is there any practical way of fixing it?

Perce

I had a coffee maker with failed thermal fuse. There were two in series
and I just jumpered the bad one. This had spade type connectors...
maybe post pic and someone will have an idea.

George H.
(I have a hate/love relation with coffee makers... well mostly hate.)

On 10/11/18 9:58 AM, wrote:

I ran the clean cycle on our Cuisinart DCC-2650 coffee maker, but then
when I went to rinse it with clean water it didn't heat up.

I removed the screws from the metal bottom plate, but it seems that that
was a mistake, because when I removed the deep-set screws in the plastic
part of the bottom and removed the whole bottom everything was
disconnected from that metal plate, and I can't see exactly where
everything fitted.

More precisely: there is a Q8025J6 Triac hanging by its wire leads,
which are held against the edge of a clear plastic part, and an aluminum
plate (heat sink) but I can't figure out exactly how they go back together.

And IAC if the Triac is the problem, so far I've only found companies
selling them in minimum lots of 50.

I figured out how everything goes back together, but of course it still
didn't work, so I did a little probing with the bottom (plastic plus
metal plus everything attached to the metal again) off and the thing
plugged in. I measured 120V across the outer shells of what I assume are
thermal fuses with their leads spot-welded to the terminals of the
heating element, but nothing across the terminals of the element. One of
those thermal fuses is bad, but with no way of spot-welding a
replacement in place is there any practical way of fixing it?

I had a coffee maker with failed thermal fuse. There were two in series
and I just jumpered the bad one. This had spade type connectors...
maybe post pic and someone will have an idea.

You seem to be posting via Google Groups, whereas I am posting to UseNet
with no possibility of attaching pictures.

eBay has multiple listings for thermal fuses for Bunn coffee makers, but
I would still have to find a way of connecting one in circuit: solder is
out, so I'd have to find crimp connectors of appropriate size.

Perce

In article ,
says...

You seem to be posting via Google Groups, whereas I am posting to
UseNet
with no possibility of attaching pictures.
Perce

You don't have to "attach"; put a photo anywhere on the web (Dropbox etc
etc) and include a URL...

Mike.

On Wednesday, October 10, 2018 at 4:45:28 PM UTC-6, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:
I ran the clean cycle on our Cuisinart DCC-2650 coffee maker, but then
when I went to rinse it with clean water it didn't heat up.


This needs boiling water. No CPU, no Triac, no cords https://goo.gl/89Mpdp.

On Thursday, October 11, 2018 at 9:35:28 AM UTC-4, Percival P. Cassidy One of
those thermal fuses is bad, but with no way of spot-welding a
replacement in place is there any practical way of fixing it?


https://i.etsystatic.com/13173278/r/...97417_dgpn.jpg

Then, eutectic silver solder.

https://www.amazon.com/Cardas-Solder.../dp/B015X68HXW

Safe, effective, and will withstand the heat.

Use the squig (soldering ring) to join the ends and then crimp it. Solder with silver solder. Done.

I keep both for just these sorts of repairs, and also my wife's jewelry.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

"Percival P. Cassidy" writes:

One of
those thermal fuses is bad, but with no way of spot-welding a
replacement in place is there any practical way of fixing it?

Yes. The retail bubble-packaged replacement thermal fuses I have
seen (at, e.g., Fry's) come with small crimp rings.
--
G. Paul Ziemba
FreeBSD unix:
2:51PM up 94 days, 4:19, 14 users, load averages: 1.47, 1.13, 1.03

On 10/13/18 5:52 PM, G. Paul Ziemba wrote:

One of
those thermal fuses is bad, but with no way of spot-welding a
replacement in place is there any practical way of fixing it?

Yes. The retail bubble-packaged replacement thermal fuses I have
seen (at, e.g., Fry's) come with small crimp rings.

Ah, Fry's. Unfortunately, the stores are all about three hours from
here, and shipping probably would be much more than the cost of the item.

I've bought a Bunn thermal fuse "set" (two connected in "Y"
configuration, but I need only one). Should be here Tuesday. I have some
crimp connectors and some push-in connectors. Both with insulation rated
to 105C, which should be OK.

Perce