Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default Weller magnastat soldering iron problem

Intermittant failure to heat.
Not due to failing switch, but original plastic stress-relief sheathing
at the blue body gone hard with age and causing stress to cable and then
a conductor break. Makes you wonder where all that plasticiser migrates
to, presumably us , quite a bit.
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On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 8:26:55 AM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:
Intermittant failure to heat.
Not due to failing switch, but original plastic stress-relief sheathing
at the blue body gone hard with age and causing stress to cable and then
a conductor break. Makes you wonder where all that plasticiser migrates
to, presumably us , quite a bit.


It outgasses..... to atmosphere. Just like the buildup of haze on the inside of your windshield after a hot summer. That's your dashboard, vinyl, carpeting, wire insulation, powder coated parts, upholstery, foam, virtually everything in your car's interior except the metal itself, condensing on the glass and every other surface. Good reason to keep the air flowing thru the vehicle as you drive, minimize the inhalation of those compounds. Gotta love that new car smell.
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On 31/07/2018 16:34, Terry Schwartz wrote:
On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 8:26:55 AM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:
Intermittant failure to heat.
Not due to failing switch, but original plastic stress-relief sheathing
at the blue body gone hard with age and causing stress to cable and then
a conductor break. Makes you wonder where all that plasticiser migrates
to, presumably us , quite a bit.


It outgasses..... to atmosphere. Just like the buildup of haze on the inside of your windshield after a hot summer. That's your dashboard, vinyl, carpeting, wire insulation, powder coated parts, upholstery, foam, virtually everything in your car's interior except the metal itself, condensing on the glass and every other surface. Good reason to keep the air flowing thru the vehicle as you drive, minimize the inhalation of those compounds. Gotta love that new car smell.


Do you happen to know what the oily or slimy stuff is, that coats old
very flexible cables such as telephone movable extension cables, a
bio-film or plasticiser like chemical ?
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My assumption has always been household cooking grease. Any hard surface that doesn't purposefully get cleaned regularly in a house where actual cooking takes place seems to accumulate airborne cooking grease. It soaks into soft surfaces, but creates an oily film on everything else.

Used to make a lot of service calls into houses in certain ethnic neighborhoods. Bring TV sets back to the shop... first thing we did was wipe them down with glass cleaner. The ammonia in it worked much better than the "409" type cleaners of the day against cooking grease. Some sets were so greasy there was a real risk of dropping them on the way out of the house. Sometimes the line cords were literally furry with grease and accumulated dust. And the high voltage sections, even worse.

You may be referring to something else... that was just my observation.



Do you happen to know what the oily or slimy stuff is, that coats old
very flexible cables such as telephone movable extension cables, a
bio-film or plasticiser like chemical ?


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On 07/31/2018 10:31 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 31/07/2018 16:34, Terry Schwartz wrote:
On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 8:26:55 AM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:
Intermittant failure to heat.
Not due to failing switch, but original plastic stress-relief sheathing
at the blue body gone hard with age and causing stress to cable and then
a conductor break. Makes you wonder where all that plasticiser migrates
to, presumably us , quite a bit.


It outgasses..... to atmosphere. Just like the buildup of haze on the inside of your windshield after a hot summer. That's your dashboard, vinyl, carpeting, wire insulation, powder coated parts, upholstery, foam, virtually everything in your car's interior except the metal itself, condensing on the glass and every other surface. Good reason to keep the air flowing thru the vehicle as you drive, minimize the inhalation of those compounds. Gotta love that new car smell.


Do you happen to know what the oily or slimy stuff is, that coats old
very flexible cables such as telephone movable extension cables, a
bio-film or plasticiser like chemical ?


We used to see a lot of icky goo back when we were digging through stuff
at electronic surplus stores. The military used "cosmoline" on a lot of
stuff it wanted to protect (or maybe still does). Core dump complete.

--
Cheers, Bev
Red ship crashes into blue ship - sailors marooned.




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Default Weller magnastat soldering iron problem



"N_Cook" wrote in message
news
Intermittant failure to heat.
Not due to failing switch, but original plastic stress-relief sheathing at
the blue body gone hard with age and causing stress to cable and then a
conductor break. Makes you wonder where all that plasticiser migrates to,
presumably us , quite a bit.


If you're going to use a Cooper Tools iron - keep a cheap Antex X25 iron
ready to hand for all the times it'll need repairing.

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On 07/31/2018 03:34 PM, The Real Bev wrote:
On 07/31/2018 10:31 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 31/07/2018 16:34, Terry Schwartz wrote:
On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 8:26:55 AM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:
Intermittant failure to heat.
Not due to failing switch, but original plastic stress-relief sheathing
at the blue body gone hard with age and causing stress to cable and
then
a conductor break. Makes you wonder where all that plasticiser migrates
to, presumably us , quite a bit.

It outgasses..... to atmosphere. Just like the buildup of haze on the
inside of your windshield after a hot summer. That's your dashboard,
vinyl, carpeting, wire insulation, powder coated parts, upholstery,
foam, virtually everything in your car's interior except the metal
itself, condensing on the glass and every other surface. Good reason
to keep the air flowing thru the vehicle as you drive, minimize the
inhalation of those compounds. Gotta love that new car smell.


Do you happen to know what the oily or slimy stuff is, that coats old
very flexible cables such as telephone movable extension cables, a
bio-film or plasticiser like chemical ?


We used to see a lot of icky goo back when we were digging through stuff
at electronic surplus stores.Â* The military used "cosmoline" on a lot of
stuff it wanted to protect (or maybe still does).Â* Core dump complete.

Including surplus jeeps. (Car Talk nostalgia.)

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

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On 7/31/18 3:33 PM, Ian Field wrote:
If you're going to use a Cooper Tools iron - keep a cheap Antex
X25 iron ready to hand for all the times it'll need repairing.


I bought a Weller WES51 back in 2001, it's been in constant service
since then. I have a second WES51 I use occasionally (off site.)

The WES51 was a replacement for the TCP that I'd had since 1985.
It dropped dead while I was at a field service site, so I didn't
bother to "What's wrong with this?" at the time. I just bought a
new station.
After I got home, I fixed the TCP. it still works and is the "other"
back up iron that's home in the garage now rather than in the shop.



--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
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On 31/07/2018 23:57, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
On 7/31/18 3:33 PM, Ian Field wrote:
If you're going to use a Cooper Tools iron - keep a cheap Antex
X25 iron ready to hand for all the times it'll need repairing.


I bought a Weller WES51 back in 2001, it's been in constant service
since then. I have a second WES51 I use occasionally (off site.)

The WES51 was a replacement for the TCP that I'd had since 1985.
It dropped dead while I was at a field service site, so I didn't
bother to "What's wrong with this?" at the time. I just bought a
new station.
After I got home, I fixed the TCP. it still works and is the "other"
back up iron that's home in the garage now rather than in the shop.




My one came via auction from one-time Ferguson production line at
Gosport, England. Jane in 1986 melted here name and date on the front
plastic.
I only switch it on when required, heat-up time allows me to check I'm
to mentally check the IC is in the right wat round or whatever.
One tip that certainly avoided the barrel cracking at the hot end,
transistor tab mount insulator, one above and one below the flange of
the 3 fixing screws, may have helped such long service.
I make my own long conical tips from believed Solon ancient iron tips
cut down and salvaged magnastat fitted over a stub of copper clinker
boat clenching nail.
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On 31/07/2018 18:56, Terry Schwartz wrote:
My assumption has always been household cooking grease. Any hard surface that doesn't purposefully get cleaned regularly in a house where actual cooking takes place seems to accumulate airborne cooking grease. It soaks into soft surfaces, but creates an oily film on everything else.

Used to make a lot of service calls into houses in certain ethnic neighborhoods. Bring TV sets back to the shop... first thing we did was wipe them down with glass cleaner. The ammonia in it worked much better than the "409" type cleaners of the day against cooking grease. Some sets were so greasy there was a real risk of dropping them on the way out of the house. Sometimes the line cords were literally furry with grease and accumulated dust. And the high voltage sections, even worse.

You may be referring to something else... that was just my observation.



Do you happen to know what the oily or slimy stuff is, that coats old
very flexible cables such as telephone movable extension cables, a
bio-film or plasticiser like chemical ?



I recently dumped a box of telephone stuff ,been in a shed for 20 years,
perfectly ok when put in there.
All the leads were this manky gooey coating, no cooking in my shed of
coarse.
I'm reminded of the black goo in tape recorders/VCRs when a rubber band
perishes to goo, and all the other bands get the same contagion and fail
, but not necessarily to sticky goo


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On Tue, 31 Jul 2018 17:57:48 -0500, Fox's Mercantile
wrote:
I bought a Weller WES51 back in 2001, it's been in constant service
since then. I have a second WES51 I use occasionally (off site.)

The WES51 was a replacement for the TCP that I'd had since 1985.
It dropped dead while I was at a field service site, so I didn't
bother to "What's wrong with this?" at the time. I just bought a
new station.
After I got home, I fixed the TCP. it still works and is the "other"
back up iron that's home in the garage now rather than in the shop.


In about 1975, I bought a large box full of Weller WTCPT, WTCPL,
TC-201, etc soldering irons, bases, cords, parts, and goodies. I
think I paid about $20 for everything. I've never bothered to count,
but I think I've rebuilt about 10 irons out of the pile, and probably
have parts for 5-10 more. A big irritation is that I have buy tips
and sponges. I have at least one iron on every workbench, including
the kitchen table. These are not the best irons available, but they
seem to last forever and are fairly easy to fix when they decide its
time to break.

Along the way, I've purchased a few imported soldering irons. They're
much cheaper than Weller and do work well enough. Rather than give my
friends one of my good Weller irons, I give them the imported irons.

As for the original problem, I can't tell what's broken from here. An
ohmmeter will tell if it's a broken cable, bad switch contacts, or
blown heater. The little plastic twist locks sometimes fall apart.
Check for intermittent connectors where the cord enters the base.

My guess(tm) would be the contacts. Unwrap the yellow kapton tape.
The plastic shell will fall apart. Clean the contacts. If the
contacts are badly pitted, file down the peaks. Re-silver if
necessary. Replace the tape, reassemble, check for continuity, and
you're done.

http://bama.edebris.com/download/weller/wtcpl/WTCPL%20Tech%20Sheet.pdf


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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On Tue, 31 Jul 2018 18:31:46 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

Do you happen to know what the oily or slimy stuff is, that coats old
very flexible cables such as telephone movable extension cables, a
bio-film or plasticiser like chemical ?


It depends on the age. Today, most PVC and rubber cables use
phthalates or ortho-phthalates as a plasticizer to soften the plastic
and make it flexible. Before about 1930, it was castor oil or
vegetable oil. Yech.
http://wwwcourses.sens.buffalo.edu/ce435/2001ZGu/Phthalate_Plasticizers/PhthalatePlasticizersReport.htm
(Yes, I know the formatting sucks, but the info looks good).

There are also non-phthalate plasticizers introduced:
https://www.eastman.com/Pages/ProductHome.aspx?product=71072819
The SDS data says it's 98% bis(2-ethylhexyl) terephthalate which makes
me wonder why they claim it's non-phthalate.




--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 11:34:07 AM UTC-4, Terry Schwartz wrote:
On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 8:26:55 AM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:
Intermittant failure to heat.
Not due to failing switch, but original plastic stress-relief sheathing
at the blue body gone hard with age and causing stress to cable and then
a conductor break. Makes you wonder where all that plasticiser migrates
to, presumably us , quite a bit.


It outgasses..... to atmosphere. Just like the buildup of haze on the inside of your windshield after a hot summer. That's your dashboard, vinyl, carpeting, wire insulation, powder coated parts, upholstery, foam, virtually everything in your car's interior except the metal itself, condensing on the glass and every other surface. Good reason to keep the air flowing thru the vehicle as you drive, minimize the inhalation of those compounds. Gotta love that new car smell.


Huh, I always wondered where the 'haze' on the inside of my car window
came from. Thanks.

George H.
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On Wednesday, 1 August 2018 16:55:03 UTC+1, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 31 Jul 2018 17:57:48 -0500, Fox's Mercantile
wrote:
I bought a Weller WES51 back in 2001, it's been in constant service
since then. I have a second WES51 I use occasionally (off site.)

The WES51 was a replacement for the TCP that I'd had since 1985.
It dropped dead while I was at a field service site, so I didn't
bother to "What's wrong with this?" at the time. I just bought a
new station.
After I got home, I fixed the TCP. it still works and is the "other"
back up iron that's home in the garage now rather than in the shop.


In about 1975, I bought a large box full of Weller WTCPT, WTCPL,
TC-201, etc soldering irons, bases, cords, parts, and goodies. I
think I paid about $20 for everything. I've never bothered to count,
but I think I've rebuilt about 10 irons out of the pile, and probably
have parts for 5-10 more. A big irritation is that I have buy tips
and sponges. I have at least one iron on every workbench, including
the kitchen table. These are not the best irons available, but they
seem to last forever and are fairly easy to fix when they decide its
time to break.

Along the way, I've purchased a few imported soldering irons. They're
much cheaper than Weller and do work well enough. Rather than give my
friends one of my good Weller irons, I give them the imported irons.

As for the original problem, I can't tell what's broken from here. An
ohmmeter will tell if it's a broken cable, bad switch contacts, or
blown heater. The little plastic twist locks sometimes fall apart.
Check for intermittent connectors where the cord enters the base.

My guess(tm) would be the contacts. Unwrap the yellow kapton tape.
The plastic shell will fall apart. Clean the contacts. If the
contacts are badly pitted, file down the peaks. Re-silver if
necessary. Replace the tape, reassemble, check for continuity, and
you're done.

http://bama.edebris.com/download/weller/wtcpl/WTCPL%20Tech%20Sheet.pdf


Soldering iron cleaning sponges cost about nothing. I can go to the kitchenware department & pick up a pack of 3 cellulose sponges (packed damp to keep them soft until sold) for less than a buck. They cut up into I forget but maybe 20 soldering iron cleaning pads. The one trivial difference is the colours.

If even that's too much, wet denim also makes a good iron cleaner.


NT
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Just make sure they are the cellulose sponges, not the plastic ones - the latter melt rather spectacularly and will foul the tip.

Note that the ones with the Scotch Brite surface are good for tip cleaning at the beginning of a session - but use with care and only when very wet as the material also will melt if exposed until dry.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


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What is the fascination everyone has with insisting on NOT
using original parts on anything?

Over the years I have built up a stock pile of original
parts and accessories for everything I own.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
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In article ,
says...

Soldering iron cleaning sponges cost about nothing. I can go to the kitchenware department & pick up a pack of 3 cellulose sponges (packed damp to keep them soft until sold) for less than a buck. They cut up into I forget but maybe 20 soldering iron cleaning pads. The one trivial difference is the colours.




I quit the wet sponge years ago and went with the dry 'pot cleaner'
thing. They can be had for about $ 3.50 from china. That is holder and
the insert.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Welding-Sol...n-Tip-Cleaner-
Cleaning-Steel-Wire-With-Stand-Set-HX/112673113703?epid=1970698966
&hash=item1a3bd74667%3Ag%3ArJYAAOSwvApaHhYw&_sacat =0
&_nkw=soldering+iron+tip+cleaner&_from=R40
&rt=nc&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1311.R8.TR12.TRC2.A0 .H0.Xsoldering+iron+.T
RS0.TSS0


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Ralph Mowery wrote:

I quit the wet sponge years ago and went with the dry 'pot cleaner'
thing. They can be had for about $ 3.50 from china. That is holder and
the insert.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Welding-Sol...n-Tip-Cleaner-
Cleaning-Steel-Wire-With-Stand-Set-HX/112673113703?epid=1970698966
&hash=item1a3bd74667%3Ag%3ArJYAAOSwvApaHhYw&_sacat =0
&_nkw=soldering+iron+tip+cleaner&_from=R40
&rt=nc&_trksid=p2499334.m570.l1311.R8.TR12.TRC2.A0 .H0.Xsoldering+iron+.T
RS0.TSS0


And this is a sensible URL for that item

https://www.ebay.com/itm/112673113703


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On Wed, 1 Aug 2018 15:29:59 -0500, Fox's Mercantile
wrote:

What is the fascination everyone has with insisting on NOT
using original parts on anything?


I'll stop insisting when the prices on genuine OEM parts drop
sufficiently:
https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=soldering+sponges&productId=3 2411300965
$0.65/ea is a long way from $5.00/ea.

Over the years I have built up a stock pile of original
parts and accessories for everything I own.


You must be a Prepper. I spent the first half century of my life
collecting all that. My next half century will be dedicated to
selling or recycling most of that junk.

Your purpose in life is to consume, pollute, and overpopulate.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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On 8/1/18 5:36 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
You must be a Prepper.


Now that's funny. Preppers are a special type of stupid
because they think THEY are the ones that will survive
the (hoped for) apocalypse.
Wait until your neighbors figure out you're the only one
with food. Good luck with that.
Or you "bug out" like you planned, get to your secret
hidey hole stocked with survival stuff. Then you find out
how much of your survival stuff requires gasoline, or
electricity or manufactured stuff (like ammunition) to
work.

No, I grew up in Los Angeles, all of my stock pile of
OEM spare parts was acquired at surplus stores, swapmeets,
garage and estate sales And the occasion "Score!" on eBay
the Free Cycle mailing lists or Craig's list.



--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
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On Wednesday, August 1, 2018 at 5:49:59 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

If I can find some melamine sponge, it should work without water:
https://patents.google.com/patent/US8109430
Same with a brass or stainless scrubber.


Melamine, when exposed to heat, breaks down into its original components. They a cyanamide & formaldehyde. The one is a respiratory irritant and suspected carcinogen, the other highly toxic and a definite carcinogen. Magic Erasers are largely made of Melamine, you might consider slicing one of those for the purposes. But, DO remember what happens to them when heated.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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One day a few years ago when I was waiting for parts for my last working Weller station and using my road kit soldering iron, I ordered two of these on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/60W-Pencil-...AOSwcVZbUAz f

These have been pretty much all I've been using since. Except for a needle point iron (EC4000) for very fine work or for anti-static considerations, I've retired the Wellers. These cheap irons are 60W heads and adjustable, although turning them all the way up is way too hot.

These never break. Never. Not the heaters nor the wire. I don't have to worry about changing the expensive heaters or therm sensors in the Wellers anymore, or have them go cold/hot during a job because the of another intermittent wire break. There are two cons to these. The first is that the tips are not the greatest, but they're good enough and you get 5 included. The second is that the iron is not regulated. This has never been a problem as the unit's ceramic heater gets the heat to the tip quite quickly. I also use a tiny schmear of neverseize at the tip collar where it contacts the barrel.

I bought these to keep strictly for emergency backup to the Wellers, but now I use them every day and bought another for my road kit.
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On 8/2/18 9:15 AM, John-Del wrote:
One day a few years ago when I was waiting for parts for my
last working Weller station


I don't understand John. Is there some special ordering code
for defective Weller equipment?

My first Weller was the soldering gun in 1968. Still have it,
it still works. Shortly after getting hired at TRW in 1973, I
was introduced to the TCP magnastat series. I've owned and
used them up until 2001 when I bought the WES51 style. I have
a pair of the DS600 desoldering stations.

In all this time, other than tips, I've had to replace the
cord on a TCP twice (two different units) and a heating element
once. I haven't had any problems with the desoldering stations,
nor have I had any problems with the WES stations that are now
17 years old.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com


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On Thursday, August 2, 2018 at 10:48:13 AM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
On 8/2/18 9:15 AM, John-Del wrote:
One day a few years ago when I was waiting for parts for my
last working Weller station


I don't understand John. Is there some special ordering code
for defective Weller equipment?

My first Weller was the soldering gun in 1968. Still have it,
it still works. Shortly after getting hired at TRW in 1973, I
was introduced to the TCP magnastat series. I've owned and
used them up until 2001 when I bought the WES51 style. I have
a pair of the DS600 desoldering stations.

In all this time, other than tips, I've had to replace the
cord on a TCP twice (two different units) and a heating element
once. I haven't had any problems with the desoldering stations,
nor have I had any problems with the WES stations that are now
17 years old.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com


I have no answers Jeff, only my personal experience. Maybe I'm just tough on soldering equipment.

I've had many Weller heaters and sensors fail over the years as well as breaks in the wires, and was spending more to keep these things running than I was my truck (okay, hyperbole but still..), and I don't think I ever visited a repair shop that didn't have a Weller pencil handle with tape folding the wire back over itself to keep it in contact.

The last straw was the handle for the EC4000 that quit after about a year with minimal bench usage. I forgot what I paid for that but it wasn't cheap..

I replaced it again because there are times when I need an exceptionally fine tip but I use it maybe two or three times a year at most to preserve it.

Otherwise, it's the cheap Chinese ebay 60W pencils that I've been using every day, most of the day. Not one has crapped out in almost three years, and even if one did, I have another $8 one brand new on the wall still in it's little baggie. I spent less for these than the shipping cost of getting Weller parts to my shop.

You know what else I've gone cheap on? Shaving razors. I now buy Trac II generic blades:

https://www.amazon.com/Personna-Twin...eywords=tracii

If I replaced the blade once per week, I get two years for $15. Since I replace them once every two weeks, I get four years for $15 (that's just $4 per year), and I can't tell much difference between the generics and the Gillette.
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On Thu, 2 Aug 2018 04:22:32 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Wednesday, August 1, 2018 at 5:49:59 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

If I can find some melamine sponge, it should work without water:
https://patents.google.com/patent/US8109430
Same with a brass or stainless scrubber.


Melamine, when exposed to heat, breaks down into its original
components. They a cyanamide & formaldehyde. The one is a
respiratory irritant and suspected carcinogen, the other
highly toxic and a definite carcinogen. Magic Erasers are
largely made of Melamine, you might consider slicing one of
those for the purposes. But, DO remember what happens to
them when heated.


Good point. The patent mumbled something about it being safe because
the soldering iron is at a lower temperature than the breakdown
temperature for melamine (345 °C or 653 °F)[1].

Solder melts at various temperatures depending on composition.
Pb63/Sn37 melts at about 188 °C while the unleaded crap melts at about
220 °C. The soldering iron tip run somewhat hotter than this,
probably at 250 °C and 280 °C respectively. I'm not sure what my
Weller irons are running for a tip temperature, but I'll check. I
have a Hakko FG-100 buried somewhere.

Anyway, there seems to be a sufficient margin between the tip
temperature and where melamine breaks down.

[1] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Melamine



--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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On Wed, 1 Aug 2018 22:19:15 -0500, Fox's Mercantile
wrote:

On 8/1/18 5:36 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
You must be a Prepper.


Now that's funny.


It was meant to be a compliment. The alternative is that you are a
junk collector, pack rat, or hoarder.

Preppers are a special type of stupid
because they think THEY are the ones that will survive
the (hoped for) apocalypse.


It's really a philosophical issue that distinguishes preppers from
survivalists. A prepper believe that the way to survive the Trump
administration is to run away to the hills when the SHTF. A
survivalists stocks up, fortifies his house, and prepares to fight off
everybody. I don't think spare parts for your electronic devices will
help in either case.

Wait until your neighbors figure out you're the only one
with food. Good luck with that.
Or you "bug out" like you planned, get to your secret
hidey hole stocked with survival stuff. Then you find out
how much of your survival stuff requires gasoline, or
electricity or manufactured stuff (like ammunition) to
work.


Yep. It's kinda like Y2K on steroids. I sold quite a few computahs
to those panicked by threat of a Y2K computer meltdown which didn't
happen. I'm sure various entrepreneurs notices and decided to
perpetuate the fears to generate some business.

No, I grew up in Los Angeles, all of my stock pile of
OEM spare parts was acquired at surplus stores, swapmeets,
garage and estate sales And the occasion "Score!" on eBay
the Free Cycle mailing lists or Craig's list.


Ditto, and in the same city (as you well know). At one time, I was
dragging home car loads of junk from the TRW flea market or JJ Glass.
Most of that has been recycles as I lacked the time to fix the stuff,
and the space to store it as its value depreciated. I also found it
less fashionable to be surrounded by electronic boat anchors. My lab
is still very much 1970-1980 vintage test equipment, which is well
worth keeping. But, if I buy any replacements, it will be something
much newer.

Incidentally, when I buy something on eBay, if I want to work, I buy
three. One to use, and two for spare parts:
http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/home/slides/BL-shop5.html

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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On 08/02/2018 12:55 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Wed, 1 Aug 2018 22:19:15 -0500, Fox's Mercantile
wrote:

On 8/1/18 5:36 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
You must be a Prepper.


Now that's funny.


It was meant to be a compliment. The alternative is that you are a
junk collector, pack rat, or hoarder.

Preppers are a special type of stupid
because they think THEY are the ones that will survive
the (hoped for) apocalypse.


It's really a philosophical issue that distinguishes preppers from
survivalists. A prepper believe that the way to survive the Trump
administration is to run away to the hills when the SHTF. A
survivalists stocks up, fortifies his house, and prepares to fight off
everybody. I don't think spare parts for your electronic devices will
help in either case.


Civilization started when man made fire. I've got five gross of Bic
lighters packed in cosmoline in my basement. I'm good.

No, I grew up in Los Angeles, all of my stock pile of
OEM spare parts was acquired at surplus stores, swapmeets,
garage and estate sales And the occasion "Score!" on eBay
the Free Cycle mailing lists or Craig's list.


Ever hit C&H, L&R or Everett's in Pasadena?

Ditto, and in the same city (as you well know). At one time, I was
dragging home car loads of junk from the TRW flea market or JJ Glass.


Remember Durk Pearson in the skimpy leather shorts?

Olden tymes...

--
Cheers, Bev
"Johnston [Island] was the home of a U.S. chemical weapons disposal
facility for 10 years before operations ended in November 2000.
The island was turned into a wildlife preserve."
© 2002 The Associated Press

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On Thu, 2 Aug 2018 13:20:24 -0700, The Real Bev
wrote:

Civilization started when man made fire.


Civilization started when man made fire and then offered to rent the
use of his camp fire to anyone who could pay the price. Commerce was
invented when the fire man started selling camp fire use licenses and
charging royalties for the resale of the fire he had invented.

I've got five gross of Bic
lighters packed in cosmoline in my basement. I'm good.


Good idea. It might be useful for self immolation if things go awry.
Cosmoline is petroleum based and quite flammable at high temperatures.
It just melts, drips, and runs at temperatures below the ignition
point, and then the whole thing erupts in flames once above the
ignition point. I found out the hard way when trying to "melt" the
stuff off a military surplus Jeep engine.

Ever hit C&H, L&R or Everett's in Pasadena?


C&H yes. I don't recall L&R or Everett's. Pasadena was not on my
beaten path. Also, I escaped from Smog Angeles in about 1973.

Ditto, and in the same city (as you well know). At one time, I was
dragging home car loads of junk from the TRW flea market or JJ Glass.


Remember Durk Pearson in the skimpy leather shorts?
Olden tymes...


Nope.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Durk+Pearson&tbm=isch
In my spare time, I hung around Santa Monica where skimp leather
shorts were just one of the many de rigueur uniforms.
--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D
http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


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On 8/2/18 3:20 PM, The Real Bev wrote:

Ever hit C&H, L&R or Everett's in Pasadena?


Ah yes, Cutthroat and Highprice.
And of course JJ Glass, and previously Palley's.

Remember Durk Pearson in the skimpy leather shorts?


Those weren't shorts, it was more like a thong.

Personally, I liked the dwarf running around more.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
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On 08/02/2018 04:11 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 2 Aug 2018 13:20:24 -0700, The Real Bev
wrote:

Civilization started when man made fire.


Civilization started when man made fire and then offered to rent the
use of his camp fire to anyone who could pay the price. Commerce was
invented when the fire man started selling camp fire use licenses and
charging royalties for the resale of the fire he had invented.


And Law was invented when the lincensee attacked the licenser with his
spiky club when the licensee's fire ceased operation after the first
rainstorm.

I've got five gross of Bic
lighters packed in cosmoline in my basement. I'm good.


Good idea. It might be useful for self immolation if things go awry.
Cosmoline is petroleum based and quite flammable at high temperatures.
It just melts, drips, and runs at temperatures below the ignition
point, and then the whole thing erupts in flames once above the
ignition point. I found out the hard way when trying to "melt" the
stuff off a military surplus Jeep engine.


The BOX is covered with cosmoline!

Ever hit C&H, L&R or Everett's in Pasadena?


C&H yes. I don't recall L&R or Everett's. Pasadena was not on my
beaten path. Also, I escaped from Smog Angeles in about 1973.


L&R was further to the east, and was owned by Pappy Dow of Dow Radio
fame. Dow went belly up maybe 10 years ago, but it had a good run. We
did our heavy shopping in 1962-4.

C&H closed maybe 10 years ago. The sign is still there, but it was some
sort of fitness club last time I looked.

Ditto, and in the same city (as you well know). At one time, I was
dragging home car loads of junk from the TRW flea market or JJ Glass.


Remember Durk Pearson in the skimpy leather shorts?
Olden tymes...


Nope.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Durk+Pearson&tbm=isch
In my spare time, I hung around Santa Monica where skimp leather
shorts were just one of the many de rigueur uniforms.


He went to all the TRW swap meets and was quite a striking figure. I
don't think we bought much there, but it was fun to look at.

--
Cheers, Bev
"Arguing on the internet is like running a race in the Special
Olympics: even if you win, you're still retarded."
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On 08/02/2018 09:30 PM, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
On 8/2/18 3:20 PM, The Real Bev wrote:

Ever hit C&H, L&R or Everett's in Pasadena?


Ah yes, Cutthroat and Highprice.


Depends on what you wanted, I guess. We were building a tape recorder
at the time and needed weird stuff.

And of course JJ Glass, and previously Palley's.


Never heard of Glass, but we went to Palley's quite a bit.

Remember Durk Pearson in the skimpy leather shorts?


Those weren't shorts, it was more like a thong.

Personally, I liked the dwarf running around more.


I don't remember a dwarf...

--
Cheers, Bev
"Anonymity is a shield from the tyranny of the majority."
-- U.S. Supreme Court, McIntyre v Ohio Elections,1995
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On Thu, 2 Aug 2018 08:45:57 -0700 (PDT), John-Del
wrote:

On Thursday, August 2, 2018 at 10:48:13 AM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
On 8/2/18 9:15 AM, John-Del wrote:
One day a few years ago when I was waiting for parts for my
last working Weller station


I don't understand John. Is there some special ordering code
for defective Weller equipment?

My first Weller was the soldering gun in 1968. Still have it,
it still works. Shortly after getting hired at TRW in 1973, I
was introduced to the TCP magnastat series. I've owned and
used them up until 2001 when I bought the WES51 style. I have
a pair of the DS600 desoldering stations.

In all this time, other than tips, I've had to replace the
cord on a TCP twice (two different units) and a heating element
once. I haven't had any problems with the desoldering stations,
nor have I had any problems with the WES stations that are now
17 years old.


--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com


I have no answers Jeff, only my personal experience. Maybe I'm just tough on soldering equipment.

I've had many Weller heaters and sensors fail over the years as well as breaks in the wires, and was spending more to keep these things running than I was my truck (okay, hyperbole but still..), and I don't think I ever visited a repair shop that didn't have a Weller pencil handle with tape folding the wire back over itself to keep it in contact.

The last straw was the handle for the EC4000 that quit after about a year with minimal bench usage. I forgot what I paid for that but it wasn't cheap.

I replaced it again because there are times when I need an exceptionally fine tip but I use it maybe two or three times a year at most to preserve it.

Otherwise, it's the cheap Chinese ebay 60W pencils that I've been using every day, most of the day. Not one has crapped out in almost three years, and even if one did, I have another $8 one brand new on the wall still in it's little baggie. I spent less for these than the shipping cost of getting Weller parts to my shop.

You know what else I've gone cheap on? Shaving razors. I now buy Trac II generic blades:

https://www.amazon.com/Personna-Twin...eywords=tracii

If I replaced the blade once per week, I get two years for $15. Since I replace them once every two weeks, I get four years for $15 (that's just $4 per year), and I can't tell much difference between the generics and the Gillette.

I have experienced all the failures mentioned with Weller pencils and
soldering stations. Except for points, I've had zero failures with
Tenma soldering stations.
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On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 10:31:50 AM UTC-7, N_Cook wrote:

Do you happen to know what the oily or slimy stuff is, that coats old
very flexible cables such as telephone movable extension cables, a
bio-film or plasticiser like chemical ?


Some old vinyl cables ooze as they get stiff, so that's a plasticizer.
With any luck, it's an obsolete plasticizer. Unless the cord is special,
destroy it. Occasionally, though, the outer sheath is bad, but the inner
wires are rubber-insulated (I try to keep those, they're limp and make good
test lead material). Real rubber-insulated wire is just barely still available.
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