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DMM banana jack inputs
I've got a Fluke 189 DMM. The banana jack inputs are getting flaky.
With the probes or input pushed up or down they sometimes loose continuity. I opened it up and looked at the solder joints... they look fine. The banana jacks are encased in plastic so it's hard to see exactly. I tried squeezing them in some, it's maybe a bit better, but no one wants even a bit of flaky in their test gear. Any ideas? (about how I might fix it.) George H. |
DMM banana jack inputs
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DMM banana jack inputs
On Thu, 21 Jun 2018 13:08:28 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
I've got a Fluke 189 DMM. The banana jack inputs are getting flaky. With the probes or input pushed up or down they sometimes loose continuity. I opened it up and looked at the solder joints... they look fine. The banana jacks are encased in plastic so it's hard to see exactly. I tried squeezing them in some, it's maybe a bit better, but no one wants even a bit of flaky in their test gear. Any ideas? (about how I might fix it.) If the banana jacks really are intermittent, replacement are available: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=fluke+187+jacks Judging by the number sold (247+105) it seems to be a common problem. More Fluke parts, from Fluke: https://www.ebay.com/sch/fluke-usa/m.html?_nkw= Now we know what usually breaks on a Fluke meter. Hints: 1. Beware of new and improved. 2. That which is most difficult to replace, is usually the problem. 3. When all else has been replaced, that which remains, no matter how improbable, is the culprit. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
DMM banana jack inputs
On Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 1:53:02 PM UTC-7, N_Cook wrote:
Usually a break in the conductor. The cheapest way to test this hypothesis is to get one of the free DMMs from Harbor Freight and use their leads on your Fluke. If this fixes the problem, you can confidently buy something of higher quality. Most banana jacks and plugs are interchangeable. |
DMM banana jack inputs
On Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 4:31:02 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 06/21/18 16:08, wrote: I've got a Fluke 189 DMM. The banana jack inputs are getting flaky. With the probes or input pushed up or down they sometimes loose continuity. I opened it up and looked at the solder joints... they look fine. The banana jacks are encased in plastic so it's hard to see exactly. I tried squeezing them in some, it's maybe a bit better, but no one wants even a bit of flaky in their test gear. Any ideas? (about how I might fix it.) George H. You might drop $17 for a set of ProbeMaster 8000 series leads http://probemaster.com/8000-series-test-leads-only/ All gold-plated, soft silicone leads, lots of accessories available. Gorgeous. Even if it turns out to be the meter that's broken, you'll be glad to have the leads for the next one! Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com No whatever banana I stick in there is intermittent. (I use a lot of BNC to dual banana plug adapters.. then I can watch the fast stuff on the 'scope at the same time.) GH |
DMM banana jack inputs
On Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 5:42:14 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 21 Jun 2018 13:08:28 -0700 (PDT), wrote: I've got a Fluke 189 DMM. The banana jack inputs are getting flaky. With the probes or input pushed up or down they sometimes loose continuity. I opened it up and looked at the solder joints... they look fine. The banana jacks are encased in plastic so it's hard to see exactly. I tried squeezing them in some, it's maybe a bit better, but no one wants even a bit of flaky in their test gear. Any ideas? (about how I might fix it.) If the banana jacks really are intermittent, replacement are available: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=fluke+187+jacks Judging by the number sold (247+105) it seems to be a common problem. More Fluke parts, from Fluke: https://www.ebay.com/sch/fluke-usa/m.html?_nkw= Now we know what usually breaks on a Fluke meter. Thanks Jeff, looks like I'll be ordering one of those. (As you can see it's hard to get inside the plastic.) George H. Hints: 1. Beware of new and improved. 2. That which is most difficult to replace, is usually the problem. 3. When all else has been replaced, that which remains, no matter how improbable, is the culprit. Grin, for number three I had this circuit that was leaking ~1 Meg ohm, I couldn't figure it out, I'm ripping out everything. I finally pull out the toggle switch. Bingo! We had a box full of toggle switches of which ~10% had a resistance in the meg ohm region when 'open'. (Hmm that might count for #2 also.) GH. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
DMM banana jack inputs
On Friday, June 22, 2018 at 9:22:58 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 4:31:02 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote: On 06/21/18 16:08, wrote: I've got a Fluke 189 DMM. The banana jack inputs are getting flaky. With the probes or input pushed up or down they sometimes loose continuity. I opened it up and looked at the solder joints... they look fine. The banana jacks are encased in plastic so it's hard to see exactly. I tried squeezing them in some, it's maybe a bit better, but no one wants even a bit of flaky in their test gear. Any ideas? (about how I might fix it.) George H. You might drop $17 for a set of ProbeMaster 8000 series leads http://probemaster.com/8000-series-test-leads-only/ All gold-plated, soft silicone leads, lots of accessories available. Gorgeous. Even if it turns out to be the meter that's broken, you'll be glad to have the leads for the next one! Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com No whatever banana I stick in there is intermittent. (I use a lot of BNC to dual banana plug adapters.. then I can watch the fast stuff on the 'scope at the same time.) GH Then it is in the meter. You may be able to tighten up the contacts with a dental-pick, or you will have to take it apart and look for a broken solder joint or some such. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
DMM banana jack inputs
On 06/22/2018 09:22 AM, wrote:
On Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 4:31:02 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote: On 06/21/18 16:08, wrote: I've got a Fluke 189 DMM. The banana jack inputs are getting flaky. With the probes or input pushed up or down they sometimes loose continuity. I opened it up and looked at the solder joints... they look fine. The banana jacks are encased in plastic so it's hard to see exactly. I tried squeezing them in some, it's maybe a bit better, but no one wants even a bit of flaky in their test gear. Any ideas? (about how I might fix it.) George H. You might drop $17 for a set of ProbeMaster 8000 series leads http://probemaster.com/8000-series-test-leads-only/ All gold-plated, soft silicone leads, lots of accessories available. Gorgeous. Even if it turns out to be the meter that's broken, you'll be glad to have the leads for the next one! No whatever banana I stick in there is intermittent. (I use a lot of BNC to dual banana plug adapters.. then I can watch the fast stuff on the 'scope at the same time.) Ah. Those put a lot of torque on the solder joints, of course. Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net |
DMM banana jack inputs
On 06/21/2018 05:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 21 Jun 2018 13:08:28 -0700 (PDT), wrote: I've got a Fluke 189 DMM. The banana jack inputs are getting flaky. With the probes or input pushed up or down they sometimes loose continuity. I opened it up and looked at the solder joints... they look fine. The banana jacks are encased in plastic so it's hard to see exactly. I tried squeezing them in some, it's maybe a bit better, but no one wants even a bit of flaky in their test gear. Any ideas? (about how I might fix it.) If the banana jacks really are intermittent, replacement are available: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=fluke+187+jacks Judging by the number sold (247+105) it seems to be a common problem. More Fluke parts, from Fluke: https://www.ebay.com/sch/fluke-usa/m.html?_nkw= Now we know what usually breaks on a Fluke meter. Hints: 1. Beware of new and improved. 2. That which is most difficult to replace, is usually the problem. 3. When all else has been replaced, that which remains, no matter how improbable, is the culprit. Except that while replacing all that stuff, the real fault blew up several of the replacements, so it's quite possible to replace everything and still not fix it! Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net |
DMM banana jack inputs
Hints:
1. Beware of new and improved. 2. That which is most difficult to replace, is usually the problem. 3. When all else has been replaced, that which remains, no matter how improbable, is the culprit. I agree with that but you're using a misleading singular. THAT.......is THE problem.......... falsely implies only one thing is wrong. I've been fooled a number of times because two things were bad simultaneously. Sometimes one caused the other but sometimes it's just random. In fact there is no theoretical limit to how many things can go wrong at once. |
DMM banana jack inputs
On Fri, 22 Jun 2018 10:30:36 -0400, Phil Hobbs
wrote: On 06/21/2018 05:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: Hints: 1. Beware of new and improved. 2. That which is most difficult to replace, is usually the problem. 3. When all else has been replaced, that which remains, no matter how improbable, is the culprit. Except that while replacing all that stuff, the real fault blew up several of the replacements, so it's quite possible to replace everything and still not fix it! Cheers Phil Hobbs 4. When everything has been replaced, and nothing remains to replace, it's time to give up. I have a multiyear example of that happening to me. I am the not so proud owner of an IFR1500 service monitor. Over the years, the power supply had become more and more intermittent and refused to function on 117VAC input. However, the 12VDC input does work. In multiple attempts to fix the problem, I have systematically replaced every part in the switching power supply section except the magnetics at least 3 times. The last time, I replaced everything with all new parts before applying power. Something blew up anyway, so I gave up and have been running it on a 12VDC bench supply for about 5 years. At one point, I even thought I had found the culprit: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/IFR-1500%20Power%20Supply%20Repair/IFR-1500%20power%20supply%20repair.html However, the celebration was premature. It died again in about a month. My current strategy is to find a 117VAC +5V/+12V only "brick" power supply and replace the entire power supply. I can live without battery operation and DC power. However, I can't seem to find something suitable in a form factor that will fit. My latest scheme is separate +5V and +12V bricks, which hopefully will fit. At least I'm in good company: http://www.repeater-builder.com/test-equipment/aeroflex/aeroflex-index.html "Also, many old IFRs are having power supply problems. If anyone would like to do an article on troubleshooting and repair we'd be happy to put it here." -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
DMM banana jack inputs
On Friday, June 22, 2018 at 10:28:46 AM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 06/22/2018 09:22 AM, wrote: On Thursday, June 21, 2018 at 4:31:02 PM UTC-4, Phil Hobbs wrote: On 06/21/18 16:08, wrote: I've got a Fluke 189 DMM. The banana jack inputs are getting flaky. With the probes or input pushed up or down they sometimes loose continuity. I opened it up and looked at the solder joints... they look fine. The banana jacks are encased in plastic so it's hard to see exactly. I tried squeezing them in some, it's maybe a bit better, but no one wants even a bit of flaky in their test gear. Any ideas? (about how I might fix it.) George H. You might drop $17 for a set of ProbeMaster 8000 series leads http://probemaster.com/8000-series-test-leads-only/ All gold-plated, soft silicone leads, lots of accessories available. Gorgeous. Even if it turns out to be the meter that's broken, you'll be glad to have the leads for the next one! No whatever banana I stick in there is intermittent. (I use a lot of BNC to dual banana plug adapters.. then I can watch the fast stuff on the 'scope at the same time.) Ah. Those put a lot of torque on the solder joints, of course. The solder joints look fine... OK I just retouched them... same deal, (just as well cause I already spent $30 on the part Jeff linked to. :^) When I replace it, I'll butcher the old one and see if I can find anything. George H. Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net |
DMM banana jack inputs
On Fri, 22 Jun 2018 10:15:33 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
The solder joints look fine... OK I just retouched them... same deal, (just as well cause I already spent $30 on the part Jeff linked to. :^) If the soldering is fine, then my best guess(tm) is that there's a broken spot weld or press fit connection between the pin that goes into the PCB, and the actual connection to the brass threads inside the banana jack. If I'm right, the pin might fall out when you unsolder it. When I replace it, I'll butcher the old one and see if I can find anything. Umm... it's called an autopsy. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
DMM banana jack inputs
On Friday, June 22, 2018 at 6:22:58 AM UTC-7, wrote:
No whatever banana I stick in there is intermittent. (I use a lot of BNC to dual banana plug adapters.. then I can watch the fast stuff on the 'scope at the same time.) GH Banana jacks are so simple that, in the absence of obvious physical abuse, I find it hard to believe that it is intermittently faulty. I would try soldering test leads directly to the lugs; when that does not fix the problem, I would look somewhere downstream like a crack in a pc board or a cold solder joint. |
DMM banana jack inputs
On 06/22/18 11:50, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 22 Jun 2018 10:30:36 -0400, Phil Hobbs wrote: On 06/21/2018 05:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: Hints: 1. Beware of new and improved. 2. That which is most difficult to replace, is usually the problem. 3. When all else has been replaced, that which remains, no matter how improbable, is the culprit. Except that while replacing all that stuff, the real fault blew up several of the replacements, so it's quite possible to replace everything and still not fix it! Cheers Phil Hobbs 4. When everything has been replaced, and nothing remains to replace, it's time to give up. I have a multiyear example of that happening to me. I am the not so proud owner of an IFR1500 service monitor. Over the years, the power supply had become more and more intermittent and refused to function on 117VAC input. However, the 12VDC input does work. In multiple attempts to fix the problem, I have systematically replaced every part in the switching power supply section except the magnetics at least 3 times. The last time, I replaced everything with all new parts before applying power. Something blew up anyway, so I gave up and have been running it on a 12VDC bench supply for about 5 years. At one point, I even thought I had found the culprit: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/IFR-1500%20Power%20Supply%20Repair/IFR-1500%20power%20supply%20repair.html However, the celebration was premature. It died again in about a month. My current strategy is to find a 117VAC +5V/+12V only "brick" power supply and replace the entire power supply. I can live without battery operation and DC power. However, I can't seem to find something suitable in a form factor that will fit. My latest scheme is separate +5V and +12V bricks, which hopefully will fit. At least I'm in good company: http://www.repeater-builder.com/test-equipment/aeroflex/aeroflex-index.html "Also, many old IFRs are having power supply problems. If anyone would like to do an article on troubleshooting and repair we'd be happy to put it here." I power a lot of prototypes from random laptop bricks with eBay SMPSes hung on them. The eBay units are generally quite okay as long as you derate their output current by about 3X. Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com |
DMM banana jack inputs
On 06/22/18 18:41, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 06/22/18 11:50, Jeff Liebermann wrote: On Fri, 22 Jun 2018 10:30:36 -0400, Phil Hobbs wrote: On 06/21/2018 05:42 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: Hints: 1.Â* Beware of new and improved. 2.Â* That which is most difficult to replace, is usually the problem. 3.Â* When all else has been replaced, that which remains, no matter how improbable, is the culprit. Except that while replacing all that stuff, the real fault blew up several of the replacements, so it's quite possible to replace everything and still not fix it! Cheers Phil Hobbs 4.Â* When everything has been replaced, and nothing remains to replace, it's time to give up. I have a multiyear example of that happening to me.Â* I am the not so proud owner of an IFR1500 service monitor.Â* Over the years, the power supply had become more and more intermittent and refused to function on 117VAC input.Â* However, the 12VDC input does work.Â* In multiple attempts to fix the problem, I have systematically replaced every part in the switching power supply section except the magnetics at least 3 times.Â* The last time, I replaced everything with all new parts before applying power.Â* Something blew up anyway, so I gave up and have been running it on a 12VDC bench supply for about 5 years. At one point, I even thought I had found the culprit: http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/IFR-1500%20Power%20Supply%20Repair/IFR-1500%20power%20supply%20repair.html However, the celebration was premature.Â* It died again in about a month. My current strategy is to find a 117VAC +5V/+12V only "brick" power supply and replace the entire power supply.Â* I can live without battery operation and DC power.Â* However, I can't seem to find something suitable in a form factor that will fit.Â* My latest scheme is separate +5V and +12V bricks, which hopefully will fit. At least I'm in good company: http://www.repeater-builder.com/test-equipment/aeroflex/aeroflex-index.html Â*Â* "Also, many old IFRs are having power supply problems. If anyone Â*Â* would like to do an article on troubleshooting and repair we'd Â*Â* be happy to put it here." I power a lot of prototypes from random laptop bricks with eBay SMPSes hung on them.Â* The eBay units are generally quite okay as long as you derate their output current by about 3X. I should add that you can make negative supplies out of an eBay buck regulator module by applying input power to +IN, grounding +OUT, and taking the negative output between there and the original common ground. Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 http://electrooptical.net http://hobbs-eo.com |
DMM banana jack inputs
wrote:
I've got a Fluke 189 DMM. The banana jack inputs are getting flaky. With the probes or input pushed up or down they sometimes loose continuity. I opened it up and looked at the solder joints... they look fine. The banana jacks are encased in plastic so it's hard to see exactly. I tried squeezing them in some, it's maybe a bit better, but no one wants even a bit of flaky in their test gear. Any ideas? (about how I might fix it.) ** You have tried using cleaning fluid ??? PCB cleaner or even WD40 will do. An old handkerchief pushed home with a small drill bit is one way to introduce some fluid and clean the inside surfaces. ...... Phil |
DMM banana jack inputs
On Friday, June 22, 2018 at 7:47:57 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:
wrote: I've got a Fluke 189 DMM. The banana jack inputs are getting flaky. With the probes or input pushed up or down they sometimes loose continuity. I opened it up and looked at the solder joints... they look fine. The banana jacks are encased in plastic so it's hard to see exactly. I tried squeezing them in some, it's maybe a bit better, but no one wants even a bit of flaky in their test gear. Any ideas? (about how I might fix it.) ** You have tried using cleaning fluid ??? PCB cleaner or even WD40 will do. An old handkerchief pushed home with a small drill bit is one way to introduce some fluid and clean the inside surfaces. ..... Phil No! I wiped 'em with IPA and a wooden cotton swab thing. I'm away from the lab for a while so I won't be able to try some other cleaner til I return. George H. |
DMM banana jack inputs
On 6/22/2018 10:05 AM, Tim R wrote:
Hints: 1. Beware of new and improved. 2. That which is most difficult to replace, is usually the problem. 3. When all else has been replaced, that which remains, no matter how improbable, is the culprit. I agree with that but you're using a misleading singular. THAT.......is THE problem.......... falsely implies only one thing is wrong. I've been fooled a number of times because two things were bad simultaneously. Sometimes one caused the other but sometimes it's just random. In fact there is no theoretical limit to how many things can go wrong at once. Oh, sounds like you worked on the first NAP VCR switching power supplies! The parts dept finally came out with a repair kit, I think it contained 8 parts, and it was strongly suggested you replace all parts before applying power. Mikek |
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