First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free

On 11/12/2017 7:26 PM, N_Cook wrote:
First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free

**That's part of the reason why I use this stuff:

http://www.loctite-consumer.com.au/e...powerflex.html

Specifically, the little bottle, with the squeezy things on the sides.
No leak, no fuss. And yes, I, too, have had those crappy tubes leak glue
onto my fingers. The giveaway is the warm feeling, from the exothermic
reaction between the glue and your skin.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

On 12/11/2017 1:56 PM, N_Cook wrote:
First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free


You don't really have to do anything if you accidentally glue a
finger with superglue. The skin constantly releases oil, sweat
and dead cells. The glue comes away along with these byproducts
after some time.

Maybe you heard about surfical gloves !


N_Cook a écrit :
First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free

On 11/12/2017 09:51, Pimpom wrote:
On 12/11/2017 1:56 PM, N_Cook wrote:
First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with
acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free


You don't really have to do anything if you accidentally glue a finger
with superglue. The skin constantly releases oil, sweat and dead cells.
The glue comes away along with these byproducts after some time.

Its not the glue bond itself that is the problem, but what you end up
glued to. Even a small tube glued transverse to a finger , makes that
whole hand pretty useless.
I'll leave a pack of latex gloves next to the jam jar containing
superglue tubes and pack of activated silica gel.

On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 6:01:52 AM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:

Its not the glue bond itself that is the problem, but what you end up
glued to. Even a small tube glued transverse to a finger , makes that
whole hand pretty useless.
I'll leave a pack of latex gloves next to the jam jar containing
superglue tubes and pack of activated silica gel.

Latex & Superglue. A recipe for disaster. What you want to use would be Nitrile gloves. Superglue has a near-instant affinity to latex, much less so to nitrile. SG sticks even more poorly to polyethylene gloves - such as the clear gloves that food workers often use. Also very cheap.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

On Monday, 11 December 2017 09:51:31 UTC, Pimpom wrote:
On 12/11/2017 1:56 PM, N_Cook wrote:
First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free


You don't really have to do anything if you accidentally glue a
finger with superglue. The skin constantly releases oil, sweat
and dead cells. The glue comes away along with these byproducts
after some time.

shhh, you're being too sensible.

On 11/12/2017 14:02, wrote:
On Monday, December 11, 2017 at 6:01:52 AM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:

Its not the glue bond itself that is the problem, but what you end up
glued to. Even a small tube glued transverse to a finger , makes that
whole hand pretty useless.
I'll leave a pack of latex gloves next to the jam jar containing
superglue tubes and pack of activated silica gel.

Latex & Superglue. A recipe for disaster. What you want to use would be Nitrile gloves. Superglue has a near-instant affinity to latex, much less so to nitrile. SG sticks even more poorly to polyethylene gloves - such as the clear gloves that food workers often use. Also very cheap.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


I'll swap the 2 latex gloves I'd placed over the jam-jar lid, with
poltyhene ones

On 12/11/2017 8:24 PM, wrote:
On Monday, 11 December 2017 09:51:31 UTC, Pimpom wrote:
On 12/11/2017 1:56 PM, N_Cook wrote:
First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free


You don't really have to do anything if you accidentally glue a
finger with superglue. The skin constantly releases oil, sweat
and dead cells. The glue comes away along with these byproducts
after some time.

shhh, you're being too sensible.


This reminds me of an incident some 30 years ago. The plastic
lining in my father-in-law's fridge had a hole where a full glass
bottle had dropped on it. I took a tube of Loctite superglue and
a piece of plastic along the next time we visited. Back then, not
everyone around here knew about superglue and my brother-in-law
was skeptical about the adhesive. I put a drop on his forefinger
and told him to press it with his thumb for some time. Then I
asked him to try to separate them. The look on his face made me
burst out laughing.

Of course the fingers didn't stay stuck together for very long,
for the reasons I gave earlier.

On 12/11/2017 4:31 PM, N_Cook wrote:
On 11/12/2017 09:51, Pimpom wrote:
On 12/11/2017 1:56 PM, N_Cook wrote:
First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with
acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free


You don't really have to do anything if you accidentally glue a finger
with superglue. The skin constantly releases oil, sweat and dead cells.
The glue comes away along with these byproducts after some time.

Its not the glue bond itself that is the problem, but what you end up
glued to. Even a small tube glued transverse to a finger , makes that
whole hand pretty useless.
I'll leave a pack of latex gloves next to the jam jar containing
superglue tubes and pack of activated silica gel.


The glue comes off, what it sticks to the finger comes off too.
At least that's been my experience.

On Mon, 11 Dec 2017 15:21:25 +0530, Pimpom wrote:

On 12/11/2017 1:56 PM, N_Cook wrote:
First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free


You don't really have to do anything if you accidentally glue a
finger with superglue. The skin constantly releases oil, sweat
and dead cells. The glue comes away along with these byproducts
after some time.

Superglue is used in surgery so we don't want it to come off too
quickly!

--
http://www.npsnn.com

On 12/11/2017 5:01 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 11/12/2017 09:51, Pimpom wrote:
On 12/11/2017 1:56 PM, N_Cook wrote:
First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with
acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free


You don't really have to do anything if you accidentally glue a finger
with superglue. The skin constantly releases oil, sweat and dead cells.
The glue comes away along with these byproducts after some time.

Its not the glue bond itself that is the problem, but what you end up
glued to. Even a small tube glued transverse to a finger , makes that
whole hand pretty useless.
I'll leave a pack of latex gloves next to the jam jar containing
superglue tubes and pack of activated silica gel.

Uhh, is that what I need to do, pack an activated silica gel pack in a
bag with my super glue?

I use the Loctite container because of it's ease of application and
lifetime, but I have twisted off the nozzle after the glue glues it on.

I have a med that comes with two silca gel plastic containers, the
diameter of a dime and about 3/4" tall.
What's the best way to reactivate them, they're plastic housings.

Mikek

Silica Gel may be reactivated if put in an electric oven or toaster oven at 200F for 20 minutes (small packs). Longer for larger packs. This may be done many times.

Gas ovens are very moist - electric ovens are not. Never tried in a microwave... wanna be a guinea pig?

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

On 11/12/2017 16:10, amdx wrote:
On 12/11/2017 5:01 AM, N_Cook wrote:
On 11/12/2017 09:51, Pimpom wrote:
On 12/11/2017 1:56 PM, N_Cook wrote:
First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with
acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free


You don't really have to do anything if you accidentally glue a finger
with superglue. The skin constantly releases oil, sweat and dead cells.
The glue comes away along with these byproducts after some time.

Its not the glue bond itself that is the problem, but what you end up
glued to. Even a small tube glued transverse to a finger , makes that
whole hand pretty useless.
I'll leave a pack of latex gloves next to the jam jar containing
superglue tubes and pack of activated silica gel.

Uhh, is that what I need to do, pack an activated silica gel pack in a
bag with my super glue?

I use the Loctite container because of it's ease of application and
lifetime, but I have twisted off the nozzle after the glue glues it on.

I have a med that comes with two silca gel plastic containers, the
diameter of a dime and about 3/4" tall.
What's the best way to reactivate them, they're plastic housings.

Mikek

Sometimes there is a few colour indicator crystals mixed in , change
colour when dried out, in an oven.
Otherwise plain silica gel crytals , non-intuitively, change colour from
pure white when damp to a vaguely off-white colour when dried out.

On 12/11/2017 10:24 AM, wrote:
Silica Gel may be reactivated if put in an electric oven or toaster oven at 200F for 20 minutes (small packs). Longer for larger packs. This may be done many times.

Gas ovens are very moist - electric ovens are not. Never tried in a microwave... wanna be a guinea pig?

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


I looked up the microwave trick, but my capsules are such that I can't
see the silica and would not know when is is dry or how to test it.
I guess I could just assume it is dry after microwaving a couple times.
Mikek

On 11/12/2017 19:14, amdx wrote:
On 12/11/2017 10:24 AM, wrote:
Silica Gel may be reactivated if put in an electric oven or toaster
oven at 200F for 20 minutes (small packs). Longer for larger packs.
This may be done many times.

Gas ovens are very moist - electric ovens are not. Never tried in a
microwave... wanna be a guinea pig?
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


I looked up the microwave trick, but my capsules are such that I can't
see the silica and would not know when is is dry or how to test it.
I guess I could just assume it is dry after microwaving a couple times.
Mikek

weigh until no more reduction, then repeat the "dose" each time

On Mon, 11 Dec 2017 08:26:33 +0000, N_Cook wrote:

First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free

I quit using Super Glue years ago. About the only thing it seems to glue
well, is a persons skin. I've used it on plastics, IT FAILED. I've used
it on wood, IT FAILED. I've used it on metals, IT FAILED. I've used it
on porcelin (like a broken cup), it somewhat held, but did not last
long. I'll stick to glues that WORK, such as epoxy. Partiucularly JB
Weld, that stuff is the best! Super Glue only has one purpose. to fill
space on the shelves in stores. Although I have heard about guys gluing
parts of their body to their girlfriends so the woman cant leave them. I
wont go into detail..... Any guy that desperate needs a lot more than
super glue. Some medical help makes more sense....

If you only glued two fingers together, you'll live.You just have wider
fingers and less of them.... And be sure to buy mittens, not gloves

On Tuesday, December 12, 2017 at 4:23:52 AM UTC-5, wrote:

I quit using Super Glue years ago. About the only thing it seems to glue
well, is a persons skin. I've used it on plastics, IT FAILED. I've used
it on wood, IT FAILED.

Piano tuners use it.

The tuning pins on a piano are a friction fit in a wood block.

Over time the holes can become oversized and the pins will slip. You can redrill and fit the next size pin, or even replace the pinblock, but it's a lot of work and expense on an old piano.

It's possible to flip the piano on its back (using the proper tools) and drip a little Super glue into the pinholes. Some people get good results this way and get a little more life out of an old piano not worth rebuilding.

On 12/12/2017 3:20 AM, wrote:
On Mon, 11 Dec 2017 08:26:33 +0000, N_Cook wrote:

First time for me, leak down the thread of the tube under the spout
plastic, one glued on index finger.
A loose loop of leather-work cotton thread around the affected area,
tied off.
Teased out cotton wool , wound around over the thread, doused with acetone.
A matchstick in the loop , to Spanish Windlass.
Squash wool, wind a turn, repeat over some minutes until free

I quit using Super Glue years ago. About the only thing it seems to glue
well, is a persons skin. I've used it on plastics, IT FAILED. I've used
it on wood, IT FAILED. I've used it on metals, IT FAILED. I've used it
on porcelin (like a broken cup), it somewhat held, but did not last
long. I'll stick to glues that WORK, such as epoxy. Partiucularly JB
Weld, that stuff is the best! Super Glue only has one purpose. to fill
space on the shelves in stores. Although I have heard about guys gluing
parts of their body to their girlfriends so the woman cant leave them. I
wont go into detail..... Any guy that desperate needs a lot more than
super glue. Some medical help makes more sense....

If you only glued two fingers together, you'll live.You just have wider
fingers and less of them.... And be sure to buy mittens, not gloves


I don't know why you don't have success with superglue, I have many
successful uses.
As far as a two part epoxy, I have been using a product for 35 or 40
years. It started with the name Araldite after a company sale it is now
sold as Fastweld 10.
I broke the crank handle on my radial arm saw and used the Fastweld 10
to fix it. It's been twenty years and still going strong, and it's a
butt joint repair. Hardens in 3 to 5 minutes, 24 full cure.

https://www.freemansupply.com/produc...epoxy-adhesive

https://krayden.com/fastweld-10-ab/

Mikek

Super-glue (cyanoacrylate) is not good in shear. But that is not to suggest that it does not hold. So as a friction-enhancer (piano tuning, for example), it would be excellent as any sharp pressure (next tuning) would shear it easily.

Super-glue is excellent for any connections not subject to shear forces, extreme vibration or where the material cannot penetrate somewhat into the substrate. I use it commonly to make O-ring belts for tuning mechanisms or similar - and I have several of those that have been in actual use (Not shelf-queens) for over 15 years. That is a pure tension application.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

On 12/12/2017 14:50, wrote:
Super-glue (cyanoacrylate) is not good in shear. But that is not to suggest that it does not hold. So as a friction-enhancer (piano tuning, for example), it would be excellent as any sharp pressure (next tuning) would shear it easily.

Super-glue is excellent for any connections not subject to shear forces, extreme vibration or where the material cannot penetrate somewhat into the substrate. I use it commonly to make O-ring belts for tuning mechanisms or similar - and I have several of those that have been in actual use (Not shelf-queens) for over 15 years. That is a pure tension application.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


What scarf angle do you use for the join?
nitrile/neoprene rubber cord ?

On Tuesday, December 12, 2017 at 12:32:54 PM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:

What scarf angle do you use for the join?
nitrile/neoprene rubber cord ?

Neoprene.
And as sharp an angle as I can manage with a fresh X-Acto blade and clean mating surfaces. I would guess around 30 degrees or so. I have a marked, slotted block so that I can set the O-ring in the block and stretch it a specific amount so each cut is the same angle. I make a sloppy joint (extra glue), then more glue, dip it in baking soda (accelerant), allow to cure, then file the flash with a jeweler's file. It almost takes longer to describe than to do it.

Here is a picture from Phil's Old Radios:

https://antiqueradio.org/art/Zenith12S471NewBeltCut.jpg

Nothing wrong with a single-edge razor.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

In article ,
wrote:

I quit using Super Glue years ago. About the only thing it seems to glue
well, is a persons skin. I've used it on plastics, IT FAILED. I've used
it on wood, IT FAILED. I've used it on metals, IT FAILED. I've used it
on porcelin (like a broken cup), it somewhat held, but did not last
long.

The newer formulations, applied and used properly, seem to be better.

Plain cyanoacrylates (e.g. the lower-viscosity ones) seem to be rather
brittle. They don't deal well with materials that flex at all, and
are best reserved for entirely-rigid materials. The low-viscosity
types have very little gap-filling ability - work OK on clean breaks
but not well if the joint is rough and has any air-space.

There are newer varieties - composites of cyanoacrylate and other
materials, sometimes including what seems to be something like
nanoparticles of rubber of some sort. These are often marketed as
"toughened" cyanoacrylate. I've had better luck with these, when used
as a more general-purpose adhesive. I presume that the added materials
prevent small fractures from propagating through the solidified
adhesive. The occasional ceramic cup or dish I've repaired with the
toughened cyanoacrylate have held up OK.

Low-viscosity cyanoacrylate also makes a nice quick (and hard) finish
for small lathe-turned wood object such as pens. You can use it as a
structural fill, too... put a few drops into a hole, sprinkle in some
baking soda (sodium bicarbonate), stand back while it fumes, and wait
a minute. The result is a rock-hard white solid. To fill large
holes, do this in repeated small layers for best results (warning, it
exotherms a lot for the first few seconds - hot enough to burn you).

I'll stick to glues that WORK, such as epoxy. Partiucularly JB
Weld, that stuff is the best!

Another good one that a friend turned me onto, a year or two ago, is
West Marine's G/flex 655-K. It's a thickened epoxy, sold for the
purpose of repairing plastic boat hulls. It'll bond a lot of the more
difficult plastics (flashing a torch flame over them for an instant is
recommended - this oxidizes the low-surface-energy plastic and creates
bonding sites for the epoxy to react with) and it works a charm on
metal and wood as well.

My friend learned about it when he asked a supplier for a glue to use
when installing stone counter-tops. He tried it out, epoxying a
length of pipe and a flange to a piece of polished granite... just
scuffed up the surface a bit with some carbide paper and glued the
flange down. After it cured, he banged sideways on the pipe with a
sledgehammer. The epoxy didn't fail, the steel didn't fail... when
he managed to bang it free, the granite failed, and a bunch of
crystals tore out of the slab and remained firmly cemented to the
flange.

The kit isn't dirt-cheap but isn't ridiculously priced, and you get a
lot of epoxy (8.4 oz). It's become my general-purpose go-to epoxy.

If you only glued two fingers together, you'll live.

You'll also learn why it makes good sense to buy a small bottle of
cyanoacrylate de-bonding liquid, and keep it in your shop next to the
cyanoacrylate adhesive. Cheap insurance against torn skin, and having
to admit an embarrassing oops to one's significant other :-)

On 12/12/2017 17:58, wrote:
On Tuesday, December 12, 2017 at 12:32:54 PM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:

What scarf angle do you use for the join?
nitrile/neoprene rubber cord ?

Neoprene.
And as sharp an angle as I can manage with a fresh X-Acto blade and clean mating surfaces. I would guess around 30 degrees or so. I have a marked, slotted block so that I can set the O-ring in the block and stretch it a specific amount so each cut is the same angle. I make a sloppy joint (extra glue), then more glue, dip it in baking soda (accelerant), allow to cure, then file the flash with a jeweler's file. It almost takes longer to describe than to do it.

Here is a picture from Phil's Old Radios:

https://antiqueradio.org/art/Zenith12S471NewBeltCut.jpg

Nothing wrong with a single-edge razor.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA



So you don't roughen the surfaces with glass/sandpaper?

Re elsewhere in this thread:- I'd picked up a bottle of superglue
de-bonding , for such a finger-bonding emergency.
Went to use it and the bottle was totally empty, the liquid had
completely diffused? through the glass/cap , not a trace left, hence the
procedure in the original post.

On Tuesday, December 12, 2017 at 2:49:51 PM UTC-5, N_Cook wrote:

So you don't roughen the surfaces with glass/sandpaper?

Re elsewhere in this thread:- I'd picked up a bottle of superglue
de-bonding , for such a finger-bonding emergency.
Went to use it and the bottle was totally empty, the liquid had
completely diffused? through the glass/cap , not a trace left, hence the
procedure in the original post.

I do not, no. I want as clean a surface for bonding as possible. Soft neoprene O-Rings have enough surface texture, even when cut, to hold the glue. In my mind, the key to the process is the second dip + baking soda. Chip off the excess, then file smooth with a good jeweler's file. Nice thing about these files is that they remove hard stuff, but more-or-less don't affect soft materials, unlike sandpaper.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

N_Cook wrote:

On 11/12/2017 19:14, amdx wrote:
On 12/11/2017 10:24 AM, wrote:
Silica Gel may be reactivated if put in an electric oven or toaster
oven at 200F for 20 minutes (small packs). Longer for larger packs.
This may be done many times.

Gas ovens are very moist - electric ovens are not. Never tried in a
microwave... wanna be a guinea pig?
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA


I looked up the microwave trick, but my capsules are such that I can't
see the silica and would not know when is is dry or how to test it.
I guess I could just assume it is dry after microwaving a couple times.
Mikek

weigh until no more reduction, then repeat the "dose" each time
The problem is most of the packs are heat-sealed together, so if you get it
hot enough for the water to be driven out, the packs come apart and the
dessicant material spills out. Usually, it is actually some kind of clay
than silica gel.

Jon

In article ,
Jon Elson wrote:

The problem is most of the packs are heat-sealed together, so if you get it
hot enough for the water to be driven out, the packs come apart and the
dessicant material spills out. Usually, it is actually some kind of clay
than silica gel.

So I found out the hard way. :-(

I tried to do this in an ordinary electric oven. I was careful to set
the operating temperature to the heat that the pack label indicated
was correct for renewing the packs.

Unfortunately, what seems to have happened is that the temperature of
the tray on which I placed the packs, ended up significantly higher
than the air temperature in the oven (not surprising since a lot of
the heat is radiated from the heating coils). The plastic packets
melted wherever they touched the tray, on the lower of the two trays
in the oven.

I suspect that these sorts of packs would be better refreshed in a
forced-air convection oven, where the black-body temperature of the
surfaces doesn't rise above the air temperature by more than a bit.

In article ,
Dave Platt wrote:
Unfortunately, what seems to have happened is that the temperature of
the tray on which I placed the packs, ended up significantly higher
than the air temperature in the oven (not surprising since a lot of
the heat is radiated from the heating coils). The plastic packets
melted wherever they touched the tray, on the lower of the two trays
in the oven.


Or alternatively take the silica gel out of the assorted paper, plastic
and other packets, and dry it loose en-masse.

Then repack it into a re-usable/re-sealable cloth bag to contain it, and
yet allow passage of moisture into the crystals.

--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk

On 14/12/2017 20:05, Mike wrote:
In article ,
Dave Platt wrote:
Unfortunately, what seems to have happened is that the temperature of
the tray on which I placed the packs, ended up significantly higher
than the air temperature in the oven (not surprising since a lot of
the heat is radiated from the heating coils). The plastic packets
melted wherever they touched the tray, on the lower of the two trays
in the oven.


Or alternatively take the silica gel out of the assorted paper, plastic
and other packets, and dry it loose en-masse.

Then repack it into a re-usable/re-sealable cloth bag to contain it, and
yet allow passage of moisture into the crystals.


Thats what I do. A large ex-pickle jar with bulk activated cilica gel
crystals, slightly buff colour , not pure white.
Then cut off the inside pocket cloth of worn trousers before dumping ,
tied off with crystals in, when required

On 12/12/2017 1:46 PM, Dave Platt wrote:
...
Another good one that a friend turned me onto, a year or two ago, is
West Marine's G/flex 655-K. ...

FWIW - the epoxy variety is G/flex 655. The "-K" is the repair kit.
"-8" is just the 8 oz of epoxy ($26 at Amazon). Also available in the 5
gallon size for $860.