Hi All,

The tip has come though the barrel on my trusty Weller iron (I've had
and used it regularly since my days with British Telecom 40+ years
ago) and I think it's a function of wear on both.

So I'm looking for a new barrel and probably a new tip [1] but I just
wondered if anyone could confirm the part number for the barrel
please? I believe it's '0051031199' but I thought I'd check before
ordering.

And whilst I can find PT-H6 tips (on eBay etc), I wondered if anyone
knew of an alternative that might be better for slightly bigger jobs
and with 60/40 please?

Like, I believe the PT-H6 is a .8mm 'screwdriver' tip and 310 or 315
DegC?

I think the number on the end determines the temperature with:
6=310, 7=370, 8=425, 9=480 DegC so a 6 should be good for 60/40 with a
melting point of about 190 DegC?

I'm guessing the 'PT' is probably the series and the other letter
defines the shape and size of the tip so is there a nice chart
somewhere please?

Cheers, T i m

[1] I have several other irons, including a 250V temperature
controlled / (screwdriver) adjustable Weller (somewhere), a big Weller
(75W), an Iroda Pro-50K gas iron (very handy) and even a 'hot knife'
for cutting synthetic rope, however I was wondering if there was a
mode modern workhorse general purpose iron that could match the PU-1D
for reliability and spares access etc?

On 14/09/2017 23:45, T i m wrote:
Hi All,

The tip has come though the barrel on my trusty Weller iron (I've had
and used it regularly since my days with British Telecom 40+ years
ago) and I think it's a function of wear on both.

So I'm looking for a new barrel and probably a new tip [1] but I just
wondered if anyone could confirm the part number for the barrel
please? I believe it's '0051031199' but I thought I'd check before
ordering.

Can't recall the numbers but you'll probably need a new element as well
as barrel. They changed (increased) the outside diameter of the
replacement TCP elements around 2003, and consequently also the inside
diameter of the barrels. Maybe the old element would work in a new
barrel but I wouldn't be surprised if the thread or something else
doesn't fit properly.

I had the opposite problem, the element burned out so I needed to
replace the barrel too. I'd consider sending you my old barrel, but I am
too far away (Australia) (and I can't guarantee that I would be able to
find it).


And whilst I can find PT-H6 tips (on eBay etc), I wondered if anyone
knew of an alternative that might be better for slightly bigger jobs
and with 60/40 please?
I pretty much only use two sorts, I think they are PTDD7 and PTAA7 but
not sure any more as I mostly use a Metcal these days.


Like, I believe the PT-H6 is a .8mm 'screwdriver' tip and 310 or 315
DegC?

I think the number on the end determines the temperature with:
6=310, 7=370, 8=425, 9=480 DegC so a 6 should be good for 60/40 with a
melting point of about 190 DegC?
No, 6 is too cold even with tin-lead. You want a number 7, and I think
that will do nicely for lead free as well. Number 8 will burn tracks off
the board unless you are very careful and quick.


I'm guessing the 'PT' is probably the series and the other letter
defines the shape and size of the tip so is there a nice chart
somewhere please?
Not easy to find with google. It doesn't help that Farnell uses the
wrong photo for most of the tips.


Cheers, T i m

[1] I have several other irons, including a 250V temperature
controlled / (screwdriver) adjustable Weller (somewhere), a big Weller
(75W), an Iroda Pro-50K gas iron (very handy) and even a 'hot knife'
for cutting synthetic rope, however I was wondering if there was a
mode modern workhorse general purpose iron that could match the PU-1D
for reliability and spares access etc?

On Fri, 15 Sep 2017 00:39:53 +1000, Chris Jones
wrote:

On 14/09/2017 23:45, T i m wrote:
Hi All,

The tip has come though the barrel on my trusty Weller iron (I've had
and used it regularly since my days with British Telecom 40+ years
ago) and I think it's a function of wear on both.

So I'm looking for a new barrel and probably a new tip [1] but I just
wondered if anyone could confirm the part number for the barrel
please? I believe it's '0051031199' but I thought I'd check before
ordering.

Can't recall the numbers but you'll probably need a new element as well
as barrel. They changed (increased) the outside diameter of the
replacement TCP elements around 2003, and consequently also the inside
diameter of the barrels. Maybe the old element would work in a new
barrel but I wouldn't be surprised if the thread or something else
doesn't fit properly.

Hmm, ok, this is just the sort of thing I needed to know, thanks.

Just OOI, I have these measurements of my existing barrel:

55.5 mm long (including the nut).
8.6 mm outside diameter of tube.
7.9 mm inside diameter of tube.
12 mm across the flats of the nut.
8.6 mm inside diameter of the thread.


I had the opposite problem, the element burned out so I needed to
replace the barrel too. I'd consider sending you my old barrel, but I am
too far away (Australia) (and I can't guarantee that I would be able to
find it).

Well, that's a very kind offer and it's the thought that counts Chris.
;-)


And whilst I can find PT-H6 tips (on eBay etc), I wondered if anyone
knew of an alternative that might be better for slightly bigger jobs
and with 60/40 please?

I pretty much only use two sorts, I think they are PTDD7 and PTAA7 but
not sure any more as I mostly use a Metcal these days.

Googles Metcal 'Metcal PS-900 Soldering System, £185.39', ouch!


Like, I believe the PT-H6 is a .8mm 'screwdriver' tip and 310 or 315
DegC?

I think the number on the end determines the temperature with:
6=310, 7=370, 8=425, 9=480 DegC so a 6 should be good for 60/40 with a
melting point of about 190 DegC?

No, 6 is too cold even with tin-lead.

Erm, I don't know if mine has aged hotter or somesuch but just
yesterday (and with the tip falling out) I easily soldered some mains
cable to some solid metal terminals (inside an IEC plug) with the .8mm
tip with no real issues?

You want a number 7, and I think
that will do nicely for lead free as well.

I'm not sure I'll be actively using any lead free but may well come
across it etc.

Number 8 will burn tracks off
the board unless you are very careful and quick.

Not good.


I'm guessing the 'PT' is probably the series and the other letter
defines the shape and size of the tip so is there a nice chart
somewhere please?

Not easy to find with google. It doesn't help that Farnell uses the
wrong photo for most of the tips.

Great! (not). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. A mate has a nearly unused soldering / rework station spare that
he said he will give me first refusal on, as / when he finds it! It
has a hot air gun, temp controlled soldering iron and smoke
extraction. I think it was bought locally and they also stock the
spares etc but I have a small electric hot air gun for heat shrink and
don't solder enough to bother too much about the fumes (along with not
breathing when soldering etc g). The problem is it's a bit big so
sot something I could just pop down on the kitchen worktop to do a
quick soldering job? ;-(

Cheers, T i m

On Thu, 14 Sep 2017 18:52:14 +0100, T i m wrote:

snip

I just got a reply from an eBay seller who has measured the barrel
they are selling and their measurements are at the end of mine in
square brackets:

55.5 mm long (including the nut). [57.4]
(I think there is supposed to be a small crimp on the end that mine is
now missing, hence the difference).

8.6 mm outside diameter of tube. [9.2]
(This could be the larger diameter to take the larger filament you
mentioned Chris?)

7.9 mm inside diameter of tube. [8.6]
(Same again)

12 mm across the flats of the nut. [12mm]
(Ok, so that hasn't changed.)

8.6 mm inside diameter of the thread. [8.6] mm
(And that's the same, suggesting the flange on the nut might be a bit
thinner bit the actual thread spec the same)?

So, I could get this one and then it would take the newer filament
later if required?

Cheers, T i m

On 15/09/2017 03:52, T i m wrote:
On Fri, 15 Sep 2017 00:39:53 +1000, Chris Jones
wrote:

On 14/09/2017 23:45, T i m wrote:
Hi All,

The tip has come though the barrel on my trusty Weller iron (I've had
and used it regularly since my days with British Telecom 40+ years
ago) and I think it's a function of wear on both.

So I'm looking for a new barrel and probably a new tip [1] but I just
wondered if anyone could confirm the part number for the barrel
please? I believe it's '0051031199' but I thought I'd check before
ordering.

Can't recall the numbers but you'll probably need a new element as well
as barrel. They changed (increased) the outside diameter of the
replacement TCP elements around 2003, and consequently also the inside
diameter of the barrels. Maybe the old element would work in a new
barrel but I wouldn't be surprised if the thread or something else
doesn't fit properly.

Hmm, ok, this is just the sort of thing I needed to know, thanks.

Just OOI, I have these measurements of my existing barrel:

55.5 mm long (including the nut).
8.6 mm outside diameter of tube.
7.9 mm inside diameter of tube.
12 mm across the flats of the nut.
8.6 mm inside diameter of the thread.


I had the opposite problem, the element burned out so I needed to
replace the barrel too. I'd consider sending you my old barrel, but I am
too far away (Australia) (and I can't guarantee that I would be able to
find it).

Well, that's a very kind offer and it's the thought that counts Chris.
;-)
Ok I dug out my box of weller parts and I did find the old barrel. (I
expect that it would cost a bit to post though as it won't fit in a
letter. Let me know if you are seriously interested.)

I also found the old-style dead element and some new-style elements and
barrels. The new-style barrel does go onto the old-style element, but
even with the thread tightened all the way, it does not grip the
soldering bit tightly so it wobbles and probably doesn't conduct heat
all that well. I'd say it is not usable like that.




And whilst I can find PT-H6 tips (on eBay etc), I wondered if anyone
knew of an alternative that might be better for slightly bigger jobs
and with 60/40 please?

I pretty much only use two sorts, I think they are PTDD7 and PTAA7
PT-DD7 part number 0054127799, (Farnell 416-435, their picture is wrong)
and PT-P7 (part number 0054134799)

not sure any more as I mostly use a Metcal these days.

Googles Metcal 'Metcal PS-900 Soldering System, £185.39', ouch!
MX-500 actually, even worse!



Like, I believe the PT-H6 is a .8mm 'screwdriver' tip and 310 or 315
DegC?

I think the number on the end determines the temperature with:
6=310, 7=370, 8=425, 9=480 DegC so a 6 should be good for 60/40 with a
melting point of about 190 DegC?

No, 6 is too cold even with tin-lead.

Erm, I don't know if mine has aged hotter or somesuch but just
yesterday (and with the tip falling out) I easily soldered some mains
cable to some solid metal terminals (inside an IEC plug) with the .8mm
tip with no real issues?
Well, I have some 6 and 7 and 8, and I prefer the 7.

You want a number 7, and I think
that will do nicely for lead free as well.

I'm not sure I'll be actively using any lead free but may well come
across it etc.

Number 8 will burn tracks off
the board unless you are very careful and quick.

Not good.


I'm guessing the 'PT' is probably the series and the other letter
defines the shape and size of the tip so is there a nice chart
somewhere please?

Not easy to find with google. It doesn't help that Farnell uses the
wrong photo for most of the tips.

Great! (not). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. A mate has a nearly unused soldering / rework station spare that
he said he will give me first refusal on, as / when he finds it! It
has a hot air gun, temp controlled soldering iron and smoke
extraction. I think it was bought locally and they also stock the
spares etc but I have a small electric hot air gun for heat shrink and
don't solder enough to bother too much about the fumes (along with not
breathing when soldering etc g). The problem is it's a bit big so
sot something I could just pop down on the kitchen worktop to do a
quick soldering job? ;-(

Cheers, T i m

On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 01:07:50 +1000, Chris Jones
wrote:

snip

Well, that's a very kind offer and it's the thought that counts Chris.
;-)

Ok I dug out my box of weller parts

I guess I've been lucky till now. ;-)

and I did find the old barrel. (I
expect that it would cost a bit to post though as it won't fit in a
letter. Let me know if you are seriously interested.)

Ok, thanks again and let me see what I can do this end before I waste
your time and effort etc.

I also found the old-style dead element and some new-style elements and
barrels. The new-style barrel does go onto the old-style element, but
even with the thread tightened all the way, it does not grip the
soldering bit tightly so it wobbles and probably doesn't conduct heat
all that well. I'd say it is not usable like that.

Ah.

Checking the existing tip in my original element (without the barrel)
it seems to fit it reasonably well but with a bit of slack. Fitting my
barrel doesn't help as the tip just falls through it. ;-(


And whilst I can find PT-H6 tips (on eBay etc), I wondered if anyone
knew of an alternative that might be better for slightly bigger jobs
and with 60/40 please?

I pretty much only use two sorts, I think they are PTDD7 and PTAA7
PT-DD7 part number 0054127799, (Farnell 416-435, their picture is wrong)
and PT-P7 (part number 0054134799)

Thanks for those Chris.

not sure any more as I mostly use a Metcal these days.

Googles Metcal 'Metcal PS-900 Soldering System, £185.39', ouch!

MX-500 actually, even worse!

gulp!

Erm, I don't know if mine has aged hotter or somesuch but just
yesterday (and with the tip falling out) I easily soldered some mains
cable to some solid metal terminals (inside an IEC plug) with the .8mm
tip with no real issues?

Well, I have some 6 and 7 and 8, and I prefer the 7.

Noted and I've ordered a couple of 7's.

Cheers, T i m

On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 01:07:50 +1000, Chris Jones
wrote:

snip
So I'm looking for a new barrel and probably a new tip [1] but I just
wondered if anyone could confirm the part number for the barrel
please? I believe it's '0051031199' but I thought I'd check before
ordering.

snip

I also found the old-style dead element and some new-style elements and
barrels. The new-style barrel does go onto the old-style element, but
even with the thread tightened all the way, it does not grip the
soldering bit tightly so it wobbles and probably doesn't conduct heat
all that well. I'd say it is not usable like that.

Hmm, my replacement barrel arrived today (next day, thanks Rapid
Electronics Ltd g) and if screwed on finger tight, the tip seems to
be pretty solid, so I wonder if there is still more to it (like the
tip dimensions)?

The other question is do we generally put any sort of thermal / anti
seize paste on these things please, or would pretty well anything
simply burn off?

Cheers, T i m

Hello,

Just so you know, the tip number indicates temperature in Fahrenheit.
6=600, 7=700, 8=800. Many US suppliers such as Mouser.com and
Digikey.com stock parts for these older Weller products. I'd guess
someone like Farnell in the UK would as well. In general I use a 700
degree tip.

On 9/14/2017 9:45 AM, T i m wrote:
Hi All,

The tip has come though the barrel on my trusty Weller iron (I've had
and used it regularly since my days with British Telecom 40+ years
ago) and I think it's a function of wear on both.

So I'm looking for a new barrel and probably a new tip [1] but I just
wondered if anyone could confirm the part number for the barrel
please? I believe it's '0051031199' but I thought I'd check before
ordering.

And whilst I can find PT-H6 tips (on eBay etc), I wondered if anyone
knew of an alternative that might be better for slightly bigger jobs
and with 60/40 please?

Like, I believe the PT-H6 is a .8mm 'screwdriver' tip and 310 or 315
DegC?

I think the number on the end determines the temperature with:
6=310, 7=370, 8=425, 9=480 DegC so a 6 should be good for 60/40 with a
melting point of about 190 DegC?

I'm guessing the 'PT' is probably the series and the other letter
defines the shape and size of the tip so is there a nice chart
somewhere please?

Cheers, T i m

[1] I have several other irons, including a 250V temperature
controlled / (screwdriver) adjustable Weller (somewhere), a big Weller
(75W), an Iroda Pro-50K gas iron (very handy) and even a 'hot knife'
for cutting synthetic rope, however I was wondering if there was a
mode modern workhorse general purpose iron that could match the PU-1D
for reliability and spares access etc?

On 16/09/2017 12:54, Tim Schwartz wrote:
Hello,

Just so you know, the tip number indicates temperature in
Fahrenheit. 6=600, 7=700, 8=800. Many US suppliers such as Mouser.com
and Digikey.com stock parts for these older Weller products. I'd guess
someone like Farnell in the UK would as well. In general I use a 700
degree tip.

On 9/14/2017 9:45 AM, T i m wrote:
Hi All,

The tip has come though the barrel on my trusty Weller iron (I've had
and used it regularly since my days with British Telecom 40+ years
ago) and I think it's a function of wear on both.

So I'm looking for a new barrel and probably a new tip [1] but I just
wondered if anyone could confirm the part number for the barrel
please? I believe it's '0051031199' but I thought I'd check before
ordering.

And whilst I can find PT-H6 tips (on eBay etc), I wondered if anyone
knew of an alternative that might be better for slightly bigger jobs
and with 60/40 please?

Like, I believe the PT-H6 is a .8mm 'screwdriver' tip and 310 or 315
DegC?

I think the number on the end determines the temperature with:
6=310, 7=370, 8=425, 9=480 DegC so a 6 should be good for 60/40 with a
melting point of about 190 DegC?

I'm guessing the 'PT' is probably the series and the other letter
defines the shape and size of the tip so is there a nice chart
somewhere please?

Cheers, T i m

[1] I have several other irons, including a 250V temperature
controlled / (screwdriver) adjustable Weller (somewhere), a big Weller
(75W), an Iroda Pro-50K gas iron (very handy) and even a 'hot knife'
for cutting synthetic rope, however I was wondering if there was a
mode modern workhorse general purpose iron that could match the PU-1D
for reliability and spares access etc?



If we're talking magnastats here, never throw away a bit without
removing the magnastat, quite easy to swage-fit to another bit of right
form but wrong temp.

On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 07:54:32 -0400, Tim Schwartz
wrote:

Hello,

Hi Tim, ;-)

Just so you know, the tip number indicates temperature in Fahrenheit.

Ah, so I'm guessing Weller is American? It's funny, whilst I was born
into a mostly imperial measurement world and was then merged into
metric, one of the few things I don't ever think I ever used is
Fahrenheit scale (maybe early tropical fish stuff)? I guess that's
because it's scale doesn't relate to anything tangible to me, like the
freezing and boiling points of water etc?

6=600, 7=700, 8=800.

conversion ah, 6=315, 7=370 and 8=425 DegC (although I agree those
numbers don't have such a ring to them and would be difficult to mark
on a tip). ;-)

Many US suppliers such as Mouser.com and
Digikey.com stock parts for these older Weller products.

There seem to be a few places in the UK as well Tim.

I'd guess
someone like Farnell in the UK would as well.

Yes, and we also have eBay etc where the odd good thing comes up. ;-)

In general I use a 700
degree tip.

I've just fired my iron up with the new barrel and tinned the ends of
a couple of bits of stranded copper cable with my 6 tip and it seemed
to do so very easily. Maybe a 7 would be required if using unleaded
solder (which I'm not)?

I have a couple of 7's on their way so I can see how they compare on
my iron.

Cheers, T i m

On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 17:03:05 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

snip

If we're talking magnastats here,

I think we are (if that's what the Weller Curie Point temperature
switch system is called). [1]

never throw away a bit without
removing the magnastat, quite easy to swage-fit to another bit of right
form but wrong temp.

Ah, and that explains the 'waisting' I saw on my existing (and only)
tip. Good tip. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[1] Just looking up Curie Point science again it explains what was
happening the other day. When the iron was cold and the permanent
magnetic field was high in the tip it held itself into the element
(the end of the barrel was worn oversize and didn't retain the tip)
until it warmed up and then would fall out, just as it was up to
temperature. ;-)

On 17/09/2017 03:18, T i m wrote:

I've just fired my iron up with the new barrel and tinned the ends of
a couple of bits of stranded copper cable with my 6 tip and it seemed
to do so very easily. Maybe a 7 would be required if using unleaded
solder (which I'm not)?

Also check that the element switches off with no tip in it. The
mechanical switch that is operated by the magnet can get stuck/seized,
meaning that the iron gets much hotter than it should regardless of
which tip is in it. It's entirely possible that a properly working iron
with a number 6 tip is hot enough for what you are doing, but if you
find that it is too hot then perhaps the switch is stuck.

Chris

On 16/09/2017 19:55, T i m wrote:
On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 01:07:50 +1000, Chris Jones
wrote:

snip
So I'm looking for a new barrel and probably a new tip [1] but I just
wondered if anyone could confirm the part number for the barrel
please? I believe it's '0051031199' but I thought I'd check before
ordering.

snip

I also found the old-style dead element and some new-style elements and
barrels. The new-style barrel does go onto the old-style element, but
even with the thread tightened all the way, it does not grip the
soldering bit tightly so it wobbles and probably doesn't conduct heat
all that well. I'd say it is not usable like that.

Hmm, my replacement barrel arrived today (next day, thanks Rapid
Electronics Ltd g) and if screwed on finger tight, the tip seems to
be pretty solid, so I wonder if there is still more to it (like the
tip dimensions)?

Ok, that's good. Maybe they made more different sorts than the ones that
I have. I'm pleased that it worked. I'm curious whether your new barrel
is larger in diameter than your old one.


The other question is do we generally put any sort of thermal / anti
seize paste on these things please, or would pretty well anything
simply burn off?
I guess you could use copper grease or aluminium grease and though the
grease part would probably burn out and smell and make a mess, the metal
particles ought to remain. I doubt it is necessary and I've never used
anything like that on a soldering iron. The only ones that I have had
get really stuck were Antex ones. I think that if you just disassemble
it occasionally either to change tips or just to inspect it, that should
prevent it getting seized up (and if it does you would catch it before
it is impossible to remove).

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 22:39:49 +1000, Chris Jones
wrote:

snip

Hmm, my replacement barrel arrived today (next day, thanks Rapid
Electronics Ltd g) and if screwed on finger tight, the tip seems to
be pretty solid, so I wonder if there is still more to it (like the
tip dimensions)?

Ok, that's good. Maybe they made more different sorts than the ones that
I have. I'm pleased that it worked.

Me too. ;-)

I'm curious whether your new barrel
is larger in diameter than your old one.

Yes, it is.


The other question is do we generally put any sort of thermal / anti
seize paste on these things please, or would pretty well anything
simply burn off?

I guess you could use copper grease or aluminium grease and though the
grease part would probably burn out and smell and make a mess, the metal
particles ought to remain. I doubt it is necessary and I've never used
anything like that on a soldering iron.

Then that is probably my answer Chris. ;-)

The only ones that I have had
get really stuck were Antex ones. I think that if you just disassemble
it occasionally either to change tips or just to inspect it, that should
prevent it getting seized up (and if it does you would catch it before
it is impossible to remove).

Understood.

Thanks again, cheers, T i m

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 22:36:44 +1000, Chris Jones
wrote:

On 17/09/2017 03:18, T i m wrote:

I've just fired my iron up with the new barrel and tinned the ends of
a couple of bits of stranded copper cable with my 6 tip and it seemed
to do so very easily. Maybe a 7 would be required if using unleaded
solder (which I'm not)?

Also check that the element switches off with no tip in it. The
mechanical switch that is operated by the magnet can get stuck/seized,
meaning that the iron gets much hotter than it should regardless of
which tip is in it. It's entirely possible that a properly working iron
with a number 6 tip is hot enough for what you are doing, but if you
find that it is too hot then perhaps the switch is stuck.

I'm ahead of you there. When I was still at BT (so 40 yeas ago now!) I
modded my PU-1D base with a front mounted red LED that goes on when
the element is on (and it's still working). ;-)

So, if it was stuck on (or off) I'd soon see it in the 'activity' LED
(and have in the past when a small tap on the element seems to cure
it, typically stuck off).

Your good point is noted though. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

p.s. JOOI ... I've just timed the iron heating from cold (20 DegC
ambient) to the 600 DegF (315 C) tipped iron heating till the LED goes
off and it was 55 seconds.

On 17/09/2017 23:35, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 22:39:49 +1000, Chris Jones
wrote:

snip

Hmm, my replacement barrel arrived today (next day, thanks Rapid
Electronics Ltd g) and if screwed on finger tight, the tip seems to
be pretty solid, so I wonder if there is still more to it (like the
tip dimensions)?

Ok, that's good. Maybe they made more different sorts than the ones that
I have. I'm pleased that it worked.

Me too. ;-)

I'm curious whether your new barrel
is larger in diameter than your old one.

Yes, it is.
Ok, thanks. That confirms that it is a new-style barrel. I guess there
are more types of element and barrel than I know about.



The other question is do we generally put any sort of thermal / anti
seize paste on these things please, or would pretty well anything
simply burn off?

I guess you could use copper grease or aluminium grease and though the
grease part would probably burn out and smell and make a mess, the metal
particles ought to remain. I doubt it is necessary and I've never used
anything like that on a soldering iron.

Then that is probably my answer Chris. ;-)

The only ones that I have had
get really stuck were Antex ones. I think that if you just disassemble
it occasionally either to change tips or just to inspect it, that should
prevent it getting seized up (and if it does you would catch it before
it is impossible to remove).

Understood.

Thanks again, cheers, T i m

I'm glad to hear you got it working though I don't think I was much help.

On 16/09/2017 18:34, T i m wrote:
On Sat, 16 Sep 2017 17:03:05 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

snip

If we're talking magnastats here,

I think we are (if that's what the Weller Curie Point temperature
switch system is called). [1]

never throw away a bit without
removing the magnastat, quite easy to swage-fit to another bit of right
form but wrong temp.

Ah, and that explains the 'waisting' I saw on my existing (and only)
tip. Good tip. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[1] Just looking up Curie Point science again it explains what was
happening the other day. When the iron was cold and the permanent
magnetic field was high in the tip it held itself into the element
(the end of the barrel was worn oversize and didn't retain the tip)
until it warmed up and then would fall out, just as it was up to
temperature. ;-)


While at it , if your one is like mine and lacks an indication , other
than slight clicks, that the magnastat is functioning.
With a selected collection of zeners and diodes it is possible to put a
droppered LED, across the AC supply line.
Unfortunately LED off when iron is on (supply loaded), but at least , it
shows the switch is not stuck on.

On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 00:18:35 +1000, Chris Jones
wrote:

snip

I'm glad to hear you got it working though I don't think I was much help.

Sometimes just having someone to open up new trains of thought or
considering new / other possibilities are all it takes Chris. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:23:46 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

snip

[1] Just looking up Curie Point science again it explains what was
happening the other day. When the iron was cold and the permanent
magnetic field was high in the tip it held itself into the element
(the end of the barrel was worn oversize and didn't retain the tip)
until it warmed up and then would fall out, just as it was up to
temperature. ;-)


While at it , if your one is like mine and lacks an indication , other
than slight clicks, that the magnastat is functioning.

That's how it was designed but I was reminded when talking to Chris
that I modified mine 40 years ago with a red LED in the front that
comes on when the element is drawing current.

With a selected collection of zeners and diodes it is possible to put a
droppered LED, across the AC supply line.
Unfortunately LED off when iron is on (supply loaded), but at least , it
shows the switch is not stuck on.

Ah, my LED definitely comes on when the heated element comes on but I
can't remember how I got there?

I do know I built, assembled and fitted it and it could have been
co-designed by one of my co-workers at BT at the time.

Cheers, T i m

On 18/09/2017 01:53, T i m wrote:
On Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:23:46 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

snip

[1] Just looking up Curie Point science again it explains what was
happening the other day. When the iron was cold and the permanent
magnetic field was high in the tip it held itself into the element
(the end of the barrel was worn oversize and didn't retain the tip)
until it warmed up and then would fall out, just as it was up to
temperature. ;-)


While at it , if your one is like mine and lacks an indication , other
than slight clicks, that the magnastat is functioning.

That's how it was designed but I was reminded when talking to Chris
that I modified mine 40 years ago with a red LED in the front that
comes on when the element is drawing current.

With a selected collection of zeners and diodes it is possible to put a
droppered LED, across the AC supply line.
Unfortunately LED off when iron is on (supply loaded), but at least , it
shows the switch is not stuck on.

Ah, my LED definitely comes on when the heated element comes on but I
can't remember how I got there?

Oh well, I was hoping to find out how you did it. I can think of a few
ways but none of them are very elegant.

On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 23:06:17 +1000, Chris Jones
wrote:

snip

Ah, my LED definitely comes on when the heated element comes on but I
can't remember how I got there?

Oh well, I was hoping to find out how you did it. I can think of a few
ways but none of them are very elegant.

Just for you Chris, I took the bottom off my PU-1D and took a couple
of pictures of what I found inside. ;-)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x4g0txwl81...d%201.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x8lvblyq4q...d%202.jpg?dl=0

I think (because it's wrapped up in tape) there is a big electrolytic
cap in there as well.

I'm not sure the pictures help but as you can see it's not just a
couple of components but I'm not sure I'd go as far as to call it
elegant (especially the soldering as I was probably supposed to be
'working' when I did it). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 23:47:47 +0100, T i m wrote:


Just for you Chris, I took the bottom off my PU-1D and took a couple
of pictures of what I found inside. ;-)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x4g0txwl81...d%201.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x8lvblyq4q...d%202.jpg?dl=0

I think (because it's wrapped up in tape) there is a big electrolytic
cap in there as well.

Can't see all the components, or be sure of the colours on those brown
bodied resistors but my reverse eng sketch is he-
http://tinypic.com/r/24v3zm0/9

Looks like a similar version to :-
http://spritesmods.com/?art=wtcpled&page=2
detecting the transformer volts drop when the switch closes.

On Tue, 19 Sep 2017 20:40:33 +0100, Geo
wrote:

On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 23:47:47 +0100, T i m wrote:


Just for you Chris, I took the bottom off my PU-1D and took a couple
of pictures of what I found inside. ;-)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x4g0txwl81...d%201.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x8lvblyq4q...d%202.jpg?dl=0

I think (because it's wrapped up in tape) there is a big electrolytic
cap in there as well.

Can't see all the components, or be sure of the colours on those brown
bodied resistors but my reverse eng sketch is he-
http://tinypic.com/r/24v3zm0/9

Woah, that's amazing Geo, just from those two pictures. ;-)

Would you like me to confirm what the missing values are (the vertical
component and the cap)?

Looks like a similar version to :-
http://spritesmods.com/?art=wtcpled&page=2
detecting the transformer volts drop when the switch closes.


Yeah, I think I remember that being the only way we worked out we
could do it back then (well, not without a current shunt of some sort
etc).

It's funny, after making and fitting it I'd sorta forgotten I had ...
because it was out of sight and 'just worked'. ;-)

The PCB was just stuffed into a little zip top component bag and it
all bundled in there and the base put back on. I probably intended
doing it properly sometime but ... ;-)

Cheers, T i m

On 19/09/2017 08:47, T i m wrote:
On Mon, 18 Sep 2017 23:06:17 +1000, Chris Jones
wrote:

snip

Ah, my LED definitely comes on when the heated element comes on but I
can't remember how I got there?

Oh well, I was hoping to find out how you did it. I can think of a few
ways but none of them are very elegant.

Just for you Chris, I took the bottom off my PU-1D and took a couple
of pictures of what I found inside. ;-)

https://www.dropbox.com/s/x4g0txwl81...d%201.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/x8lvblyq4q...d%202.jpg?dl=0

I think (because it's wrapped up in tape) there is a big electrolytic
cap in there as well.

I'm not sure the pictures help but as you can see it's not just a
couple of components but I'm not sure I'd go as far as to call it
elegant (especially the soldering as I was probably supposed to be
'working' when I did it). ;-)

Cheers, T i m


Thanks!

On Wed, 20 Sep 2017 00:48:04 +0100, T i m wrote:


Would you like me to confirm what the missing values are (the vertical
component and the cap)?

Not for my sake anyway - I was bored.

The PCB was just stuffed into a little zip top component bag and it
all bundled in there and the base put back on. I probably intended
doing it properly sometime but ... ;-)

I open boxes now and don't even know what the board inside was meant
to do - and I will have built it many years ago.

On Wed, 20 Sep 2017 15:49:43 +0100, Geo
wrote:

On Wed, 20 Sep 2017 00:48:04 +0100, T i m wrote:


Would you like me to confirm what the missing values are (the vertical
component and the cap)?

Not for my sake anyway - I was bored.

Ok ... the next time I'm bored then. ;-)

The PCB was just stuffed into a little zip top component bag and it
all bundled in there and the base put back on. I probably intended
doing it properly sometime but ... ;-)

I open boxes now and don't even know what the board inside was meant
to do - and I will have built it many years ago.

LOL.

Cheers, T i m