Erratic connection, not bad solder problem to pcb, internal failure
probably loss of plating contact surface.
Seems pointless trying to replace original dual concentric "socket",
bound to be proprietary and so will also fail after warranty + 1 year.
Some sort of polarised mateable line plug and socket with a well
anchored stub of lead , soldered to the pcb inside, instead. The
diverter switch in the socket just switches an LED on and off and has
been defunct for ages anyway.
So just 2 wire line connectors male and female for 20V ,3A. But what
type of non bulky, hopefully side by side axial connections, ie not like
3.5mm (3A anway) or dual concentric (no line sockets easily available).
At the moment I'm thinking of moulding up my own connectors , as I
cannot think of anything off the shelf. Using a pair of Q or Trident
type sockets and pins, offset axially , to give the polarisation.
Cosmetic appearance does not matter.

I have replaced some of these in the past on a number of different laptops without any problem. I have not had a problem finding generic replacements either.

What laptop are you working on?

Dan

On 06/11/16 12:19, N_Cook wrote:
Erratic connection, not bad solder problem to pcb, internal failure
probably loss of plating contact surface.
Seems pointless trying to replace original dual concentric "socket",
bound to be proprietary and so will also fail after warranty + 1 year.
Some sort of polarised mateable line plug and socket with a well
anchored stub of lead , soldered to the pcb inside, instead. The
diverter switch in the socket just switches an LED on and off and has
been defunct for ages anyway.
So just 2 wire line connectors male and female for 20V ,3A. But what
type of non bulky, hopefully side by side axial connections, ie not like
3.5mm (3A anway) or dual concentric (no line sockets easily available).
At the moment I'm thinking of moulding up my own connectors , as I
cannot think of anything off the shelf. Using a pair of Q or Trident
type sockets and pins, offset axially , to give the polarisation.
Cosmetic appearance does not matter.

3-pin Din connector?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/401159837174

or mini XLR?

http://www.switchcraft.com/Documents...d_mini_xlr.pdf

--
Adrian C

On 06/11/2016 21:13, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 06/11/16 12:19, N_Cook wrote:
Erratic connection, not bad solder problem to pcb, internal failure
probably loss of plating contact surface.
Seems pointless trying to replace original dual concentric "socket",
bound to be proprietary and so will also fail after warranty + 1 year.
Some sort of polarised mateable line plug and socket with a well
anchored stub of lead , soldered to the pcb inside, instead. The
diverter switch in the socket just switches an LED on and off and has
been defunct for ages anyway.
So just 2 wire line connectors male and female for 20V ,3A. But what
type of non bulky, hopefully side by side axial connections, ie not like
3.5mm (3A anway) or dual concentric (no line sockets easily available).
At the moment I'm thinking of moulding up my own connectors , as I
cannot think of anything off the shelf. Using a pair of Q or Trident
type sockets and pins, offset axially , to give the polarisation.
Cosmetic appearance does not matter.

3-pin Din connector?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/401159837174

or mini XLR?

http://www.switchcraft.com/Documents...d_mini_xlr.pdf


I like the idea of mini XLR. I don't like the idea of locking connection
as leaves little chance of a tripped over lead not trashing the pc. It
reminded me I've some nice expensive NOS surplus line-LEMO connectors,
I'll investigate how easy it is to butcher the latch function on them

"N_Cook" wrote in message ...

On 06/11/2016 21:13, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 06/11/16 12:19, N_Cook wrote:
Erratic connection, not bad solder problem to pcb, internal failure
probably loss of plating contact surface.
Seems pointless trying to replace original dual concentric "socket",
bound to be proprietary and so will also fail after warranty + 1 year.
Some sort of polarised mateable line plug and socket with a well
anchored stub of lead , soldered to the pcb inside, instead. The
diverter switch in the socket just switches an LED on and off and has
been defunct for ages anyway.
So just 2 wire line connectors male and female for 20V ,3A. But what
type of non bulky, hopefully side by side axial connections, ie not like
3.5mm (3A anway) or dual concentric (no line sockets easily available).
At the moment I'm thinking of moulding up my own connectors , as I
cannot think of anything off the shelf. Using a pair of Q or Trident
type sockets and pins, offset axially , to give the polarisation.
Cosmetic appearance does not matter.

3-pin Din connector?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/401159837174

or mini XLR?

http://www.switchcraft.com/Documents...d_mini_xlr.pdf


I like the idea of mini XLR. I don't like the idea of locking connection
as leaves little chance of a tripped over lead not trashing the pc. It
reminded me I've some nice expensive NOS surplus line-LEMO connectors,
I'll investigate how easy it is to butcher the latch function on them





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8ntUVj-sqM



Maybe scale them smaller using Hard Drive magnets?


Gareth.

N_Cook wrote:

Erratic connection, not bad solder problem to pcb, internal failure
probably loss of plating contact surface.
Seems pointless trying to replace original dual concentric "socket",
bound to be proprietary and so will also fail after warranty + 1 year.
Some sort of polarised mateable line plug and socket with a well
anchored stub of lead , soldered to the pcb inside, instead. The
diverter switch in the socket just switches an LED on and off and has
been defunct for ages anyway.
So just 2 wire line connectors male and female for 20V ,3A. But what
type of non bulky, hopefully side by side axial connections, ie not like
3.5mm (3A anway) or dual concentric (no line sockets easily available).
At the moment I'm thinking of moulding up my own connectors , as I
cannot think of anything off the shelf. Using a pair of Q or Trident
type sockets and pins, offset axially , to give the polarisation.
Cosmetic appearance does not matter.
How about gluing a modified USB connector on the outside of the laptop? Cut
the plastic connector inside so a standard USB can't mate to the modified
connector? Like have a bar across the middle to block the standard type.

Jon