Troubleshooting OLD Remote (for Gas Fireplace)
 

Greetings all -

The house into which I just moved has a gas fireplace with a remote receiver. I didn't receive a remote transmitter when I moved in.

Rather than replace the pair, I figured I'd just buy a matching remote... easier said than done. The remote transmitter is old and unavailable except on eBay. It's an early model with hardwired jumpers. The (used, fairly old) remote I bought has jumpers 2 - 9 with wires bridging the "jumpers," with two of the wires cut.

The label on the back of the receiver says it was factory set to security code 57, and the remote I purchased says it was factory set to security code 18. So I'm thinking "Easy peasy! Just match the jumpers in the remote with those in the receiver." So that's what I did - I solder-connected a cut jumper and cut one uncut jumper in the remote to match them up.

Unfortunately, no joy, despite fresh batteries in both the receiver and transmitter.

The transmitter LED lights up, so I *assume* it's transmitting. Just wondering if anyone's seen examples where the remote and receiver jumpers *weren't* identical for them to be matched up. One other odd thing; I don't get how the security code of the remote was "18" with the following settings: 2:0 3:1 4:1 5:1 6:0 7:1 8:1 9:1. Nor can I make "57" out of: 2:0 3:0 4:1 5:1 6:1 7:1 8:1 9:0.

Thanks

-Pete

Troubleshooting OLD Remote (for Gas Fireplace)
 

On 01/10/2016 23:11, Peter Chrisbacher wrote:
Greetings all -

The house into which I just moved has a gas fireplace with a remote receiver. I didn't receive a remote transmitter when I moved in.

Rather than replace the pair, I figured I'd just buy a matching remote... easier said than done. The remote transmitter is old and unavailable except on eBay. It's an early model with hardwired jumpers. The (used, fairly old) remote I bought has jumpers 2 - 9 with wires bridging the "jumpers," with two of the wires cut.

The label on the back of the receiver says it was factory set to security code 57, and the remote I purchased says it was factory set to security code 18. So I'm thinking "Easy peasy! Just match the jumpers in the remote with those in the receiver." So that's what I did - I solder-connected a cut jumper and cut one uncut jumper in the remote to match them up.

Unfortunately, no joy, despite fresh batteries in both the receiver and transmitter.

The transmitter LED lights up, so I *assume* it's transmitting. Just wondering if anyone's seen examples where the remote and receiver jumpers *weren't* identical for them to be matched up. One other odd thing; I don't get how the security code of the remote was "18" with the following settings: 2:0 3:1 4:1 5:1 6:0 7:1 8:1 9:1. Nor can I make "57" out of: 2:0 3:0 4:1 5:1 6:1 7:1 8:1 9:0.

Thanks

-Pete


First thing is to shine any old known good IR receiver at a video camera
, to check IR acceptance and then confirm your IR LED/s are emitting by
doing the same

Troubleshooting OLD Remote (for Gas Fireplace)
 

It's radio - not IR :(

Troubleshooting OLD Remote (for Gas Fireplace)
 

On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 11:12:06 AM UTC-4, Peter Chrisbacher wrote:
It's radio - not IR :(

Most radio systems are on 300/400 mHz. If you have anything that can burst in that range, try it. Start with a garage door opener transmitter. Most of the OEM sourced from the same suppliers, so there may well be a ready source out there as well.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Troubleshooting OLD Remote (for Gas Fireplace)
 

On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 4:23:32 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 11:12:06 AM UTC-4, Peter Chrisbacher wrote:
It's radio - not IR :(

Most radio systems are on 300/400 mHz. If you have anything that can burst in that range, try it. Start with a garage door opener transmitter. Most of the OEM sourced from the same suppliers, so there may well be a ready source out there as well.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Interesting! Yes, I have a GD remote handy - I'll give it a try. Not keen on running through all 256 codes, but at least they're switch settable. Any idea what an "On" signal on one of these things actually is? Hopefully it's the same for the fireplace. FWIW, the transmitter contains a Super Star TX13 DIP 18 pin IC (haven't been able to locate a data sheet), and the receiver contains a PTC PT2272 (data sheet located!). Jumper settings may be different - hopefully I can locate a sheet or info on the TX13...

-Pete

Troubleshooting OLD Remote (for Gas Fireplace)
 

On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 7:38:41 PM UTC-4, Peter Chrisbacher wrote:
On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 4:23:32 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Sunday, October 2, 2016 at 11:12:06 AM UTC-4, Peter Chrisbacher wrote:
It's radio - not IR :(

Most radio systems are on 300/400 mHz. If you have anything that can burst in that range, try it. Start with a garage door opener transmitter. Most of the OEM sourced from the same suppliers, so there may well be a ready source out there as well.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Interesting! Yes, I have a GD remote handy - I'll give it a try. Not keen on running through all 256 codes, but at least they're switch settable. Any idea what an "On" signal on one of these things actually is? Hopefully it's the same for the fireplace. FWIW, the transmitter contains a Super Star TX13 DIP 18 pin IC (haven't been able to locate a data sheet), and the receiver contains a PTC PT2272 (data sheet located!). Jumper settings may be different - hopefully I can locate a sheet or info on the TX13...

-Pete

....if all else fails, I may wire up a dip switch in the remote and try cycling through all the possible settings...

Troubleshooting OLD Remote (for Gas Fireplace)
 

The transmitter LED lights up, so I *assume* it's transmitting. Just wondering if anyone's seen examples where the remote and receiver jumpers *weren't* identical for them to be matched up. One other odd thing; I don't get how the security code of the remote was "18" with the following settings: 2:0 3:1 4:1 5:1 6:0 7:1 8:1 9:1. Nor can I make "57" out of: 2:0 3:0 4:1 5:1 6:1 7:1 8:1 9:0.

Thanks

-Pete

the jumpers might be binary coded decimal

if it was wired for 18

1 = 0001
8 = 1000

or binary
where 18 = 00010010

both of those codes have (2) ones and since you said two jumpers were cut, this might make sense.

so try to work it out for both binary coded decimal

or straight binary

mark

Troubleshooting OLD Remote (for Gas Fireplace)
 

On Saturday, October 1, 2016 at 6:11:56 PM UTC-4, Peter Chrisbacher wrote:
Greetings all -

The house into which I just moved has a gas fireplace with a remote receiver. I didn't receive a remote transmitter when I moved in.

Rather than replace the pair, I figured I'd just buy a matching remote... easier said than done. The remote transmitter is old and unavailable except on eBay. It's an early model with hardwired jumpers. The (used, fairly old) remote I bought has jumpers 2 - 9 with wires bridging the "jumpers," with two of the wires cut.

The label on the back of the receiver says it was factory set to security code 57, and the remote I purchased says it was factory set to security code 18. So I'm thinking "Easy peasy! Just match the jumpers in the remote with those in the receiver." So that's what I did - I solder-connected a cut jumper and cut one uncut jumper in the remote to match them up.

Unfortunately, no joy, despite fresh batteries in both the receiver and transmitter.

The transmitter LED lights up, so I *assume* it's transmitting. Just wondering if anyone's seen examples where the remote and receiver jumpers *weren't* identical for them to be matched up. One other odd thing; I don't get how the security code of the remote was "18" with the following settings: 2:0 3:1 4:1 5:1 6:0 7:1 8:1 9:1. Nor can I make "57" out of: 2:0 3:0 4:1 5:1 6:1 7:1 8:1 9:0.

Thanks

-Pete

another idea, can you see a part number on the IC inside...

look up the data sheet for it

mark

Troubleshooting OLD Remote (for Gas Fireplace)
 

Now, I know that most of us here are best described as "tight" with the pennies, holding on until either Abe or the good Queen howls.

However, as I mentioned most gas log makers source from generic suppliers - and here is one:

http://www.hearthsidedistributors.co...emote-Controls

Somewhere on that device will be either a manufacturer, serial or model number. So, you might be able to call the maker and get how to adjust the sender, or replace the sender entirely. Or replace the sender and receiver entirely.

Given how stubborn I am, writing for myself, I would try to work it out with the resources already in hand.

BTW: 01110111 = 119 in binary. 00111110 = 62

They both have 8 digits. About all they share.

http://www.binaryhexconverter.com/bi...imal-converter

Are you sure that the receiver is active and receiving?

Best of luck with this - I just cleaned out our gas-log preparing for winter.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA