Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems.

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Default Repairing damaged ribbon connector slot


I had some free time the other day and figured out the issue with
my basket case i7 (bent power supply connection pin on the
motherboard.) It's powering up now.

Unfortunately it looks like the ribbon cable connector has been
damaged for the SATA drive on the mobo as well, so the clamp
dosent "catch" with the cable when it's inserted and the clamp
pressed down. I considered taping it in but on this type of
connector, where it isn't a friction fit, I don't think it will
apply enough pressure to keep it secure.

Any suggestions? Dab of superglue or hot glue gun, maybe?


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Default Repairing damaged ribbon connector slot

On 08/19/2016 10:31 AM, bitrex wrote:

I had some free time the other day and figured out the issue with
my basket case i7 (bent power supply connection pin on the
motherboard.) It's powering up now.

Unfortunately it looks like the ribbon cable connector has been
damaged for the SATA drive on the mobo as well, so the clamp
dosent "catch" with the cable when it's inserted and the clamp
pressed down. I considered taping it in but on this type of
connector, where it isn't a friction fit, I don't think it will
apply enough pressure to keep it secure.

Any suggestions? Dab of superglue or hot glue gun, maybe?



Superglue would be my last resort - you don't want it working its way
into the electrical contacts...

I am not familiar with something called an i7 (or 'mobo' either for that
matter - is this some sort of phone? You sent this with an android, so
perhaps this is android speak?), but assuming a standard SATA drive
connector that isn't making good contact I would consider using a
stronger bond that hot-melt - which doesn't stick that well to stuff.
Perhaps contact/rubber cement? Or an adhesive putty like the stuff used
to hang posters on walls?

John :-#)#
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Default Repairing damaged ribbon connector slot

You can get pc-board mount SATA data connectors on eBay. This seller has 2 for $3.79+$0.80(shipping)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-New-Sa...AOSwQ15XOX7 X

and 10 for $5.99, shipping included
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-Sata-...AOSwcvdXOX0 A

If you want the combo data/power connector, it is also 10 for $5.99, shipping included
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-New-S...AOSwxehXOX8 9

Same prices for connectors of the other gender.

Disclaimer: I know nothing about this eBay vendor, but I have purchased from other vendors on eBay.

I assume you will have no problems finding replacement data cables.
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Default Repairing damaged ribbon connector slot

On Fri, 19 Aug 2016 19:49:33 +0100, MJC
wrote:

In article ,
says...

I am not familiar with something called an i7 (or 'mobo' either for

that
matter - is this some sort of phone? You sent this with an android, so
perhaps this is android speak


Pretty certain mobo=motherboard, but I think "i7" is too enigmatic, as
well.


I think that is intergallactica station 7, which iirc is Andromenica,
or maybe Ardmore.

Mike.

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On Fri, 19 Aug 2016 13:02:08 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

You can get pc-board mount SATA data connectors on eBay. This seller has 2 for $3.79+$0.80(shipping)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-New-Sa...AOSwQ15XOX7 X


How is it that they can ship from ShenZhen, Guangdong, China for 80
cents? I suppose they put everything in a big box and pro-rate the
shipping, but when I get things in the mail, it doesn't seem like that
was done.

and 10 for $5.99, shipping included
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-Sata-...AOSwcvdXOX0 A

If you want the combo data/power connector, it is also 10 for $5.99, shipping included
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-New-S...AOSwxehXOX8 9

Same prices for connectors of the other gender.

Disclaimer: I know nothing about this eBay vendor, but I have purchased from other vendors on eBay.


Me too. Various things. I've always had good results except I bought
a camera, new but without a box or instructions or anything, and it
didn't have a battery which I think it should have either had or
denoted that it didn't have. That cost me, after shopping, $15. Still
the total was cheaper than elsewhere, but not as much. The camera
works fine.

I assume you will have no problems finding replacement data cables.

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Default Repairing damaged ribbon connector slot

On 25/08/16 09:44, Micky wrote:
On Fri, 19 Aug 2016 13:02:08 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:
You can get pc-board mount SATA data connectors on eBay. This seller has 2 for $3.79+$0.80(shipping)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-New-Sa...AOSwQ15XOX7 X

How is it that they can ship from ShenZhen, Guangdong, China for 80
cents? I suppose they put everything in a big box and pro-rate the
shipping


China Post (aka the Chinese government) provides free shipping
for small parcels. So "big box" here means "shipping container"
and "pro-rate" is at zero cost... except to the postal services
in the destination countries.
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Default Repairing damaged ribbon connector slot

On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 4:44:24 PM UTC-7, Micky wrote:
How is it that they can ship from ShenZhen, Guangdong, China for 80 cents?

I don't know, but it works. Last year, I bought a USB header from a Hong Kong vendor for US$1.77 and it arrived in a reasonable length of time.

I assume that the manufacturing cost of the connectors is less than 1 yuan, and the price to the middleman is 2-3 yuan. That would leave some room for shipping and a profit.


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Default Repairing damaged ribbon connector slot



"bitrex" wrote in message ...


I had some free time the other day and figured out the issue with
my basket case i7 (bent power supply connection pin on the
motherboard.) It's powering up now.

Unfortunately it looks like the ribbon cable connector has been
damaged for the SATA drive on the mobo as well, so the clamp
dosent "catch" with the cable when it's inserted and the clamp
pressed down. I considered taping it in but on this type of
connector, where it isn't a friction fit, I don't think it will
apply enough pressure to keep it secure.

Any suggestions? Dab of superglue or hot glue gun, maybe?







I've been on this planet a few years now, and have yet to find a situation
where Superglue is a good idea.
It pretty much just does not work, except for sticking your fingers
together.

Hot melt glue sometimes works, but does not adhere well to many surfaces.


Silicone glue/sealant pretty much sticks to everything, is flexible and
shockproof, and can be peeled off without damaging anything if you need to
have another go.
Win, win, win, in my book, I rarely use anything else now.





Gareth.











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Default Repairing damaged ribbon connector slot

On Thu, 25 Aug 2016 02:00:32 +0100, "Gareth Magennis"
wrote:



I've been on this planet a few years now, and have yet to find a situation
where Superglue is a good idea.


It's never worked for me, either.

I've tried using less and less, and more.

It pretty much just does not work, except for sticking your fingers
together.


It doesn't do that either, for me.

Is it just a big scam, propelled by the enormous advertising campaign
years ago, or are there people it works for?

My mother had some Duco Cement, and that never worked for me either.

Hot melt glue sometimes works, but does not adhere well to many surfaces.


Silicone glue/sealant pretty much sticks to everything, is flexible and


You're talking about GE silicone sealant that comes in white, black**,
clear, and iirc silver??? **Black is only sold at autoparts
stores.

shockproof, and can be peeled off without damaging anything if you need to
have another go.
Win, win, win, in my book, I rarely use anything else now.


I use it too, but I also use:

Contact cement is good for cloth etc. because it bends, even after
drying. It used to be Weldwood in the red tube and not Weldwood in
the white tube, but that was decades ago and has probably changed.

Android cement is good for almost everything, not as strong as epoxy
but strong, and yet can be broken apart if you want later. Dries
quickly, smells good. Only sold in hobby stores. Tube never dries
out if you keep it sealed. I used one big tube for 20 years. (I
only learned about it because the hardware store at Myrtle Ave. in
downtown Brookly had two cartons of them on sale cheap because they
were all beat up, each tube had been squeezed and bent, but that's the
tube that lasted 20 years.

Five-minute epoxee in the syringe is very good for many many things.

PC-7 and PC-11, very very strong, sticks to almost anything including
glass (at least the demo showed that. I've never needed to glue
anything to glass.) Moldable, space filler. Can be applied to a
dripping drain (because the drain had a hole in it and the faucet
washer was no good) and still dries and stops the leak. I lost the
cap to a wine sack, put vaseline on the threads, molded some PC-7
around it, put a hole through for a string, and when it tried, I
unscrewed it and now it's a cap. I patched a leaking pot and then
forgot and boiled all the water out, but it still didn't leak. I
even made replacement teeth on the gear of a commercial "egg" mixer,
but that only worked for a couple minutes. (I should have roughed up
the glossy area where most of the glue went, but I was only 19 y.o.)
I've never used PC-11 iirc, and I don't understand the difference. The
label says PC-11 is for water areas -- well I guess that's the
difference but 7 seemed to work well there too. 7 is dark grey and 11
is white.




Gareth.

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Default Repairing damaged ribbon connector slot

On Thu, 25 Aug 2016 10:26:34 +1000, Clifford Heath
wrote:

On 25/08/16 09:44, Micky wrote:
On Fri, 19 Aug 2016 13:02:08 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:
You can get pc-board mount SATA data connectors on eBay. This seller has 2 for $3.79+$0.80(shipping)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-New-Sa...AOSwQ15XOX7 X

How is it that they can ship from ShenZhen, Guangdong, China for 80
cents? I suppose they put everything in a big box and pro-rate the
shipping


China Post (aka the Chinese government) provides free shipping
for small parcels. So "big box" here means "shipping container"
and "pro-rate" is at zero cost...


Well that would account for it. So who gets the 80 cents?

except to the postal services
in the destination countries.


So the US etc. have to handle their part for free, because that's the
system for all but the originating country, right?
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On Friday, August 26, 2016 at 9:11:32 AM UTC-7, Micky wrote:
So the US etc. have to handle their part for free, because that's the
system for all but the originating country, right?

By international treaty. Google "Universal Postal Union". The recipient country agrees to complete the delivery. It works both in both directions.
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Default Repairing damaged ribbon connector slot

On 08/24/2016 09:00 PM, Gareth Magennis wrote:


"bitrex" wrote in message ...


I had some free time the other day and figured out the issue with
my basket case i7 (bent power supply connection pin on the
motherboard.) It's powering up now.

Unfortunately it looks like the ribbon cable connector has been
damaged for the SATA drive on the mobo as well, so the clamp
dosent "catch" with the cable when it's inserted and the clamp
pressed down. I considered taping it in but on this type of
connector, where it isn't a friction fit, I don't think it will
apply enough pressure to keep it secure.

Any suggestions? Dab of superglue or hot glue gun, maybe?







I've been on this planet a few years now, and have yet to find a
situation where Superglue is a good idea.
It pretty much just does not work, except for sticking your fingers
together.

Hot melt glue sometimes works, but does not adhere well to many surfaces.


Silicone glue/sealant pretty much sticks to everything, is flexible and
shockproof, and can be peeled off without damaging anything if you need
to have another go.
Win, win, win, in my book, I rarely use anything else now.





Gareth.


Just for reference, the fashion of ribbon cable clip that's damaged
looks similar to this:

http://www.insidemylaptop.com/images...erboard-11.jpg

The clip pins are damaged and it won't latch down to secure the ribbon.



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On Fri, 26 Aug 2016 12:09:06 -0400, Micky
wrote:



Silicone glue/sealant pretty much sticks to everything, is flexible and


You're talking about GE silicone sealant that comes in white, black**,
clear, and iirc silver??? **Black is only sold at autoparts
stores.

shockproof, and can be peeled off without damaging anything if you need to
have another go.
Win, win, win, in my book, I rarely use anything else now.


I use it too, but I also use:

Contact cement is good for cloth etc. because it bends, even after
drying. It used to be Weldwood in the red tube and not Weldwood in
the white tube, but that was decades ago and has probably changed.

Android cement is good for almost everything, not as strong as epoxy


Oops. Ambroid Glue

http://www.ottertooth.com/Canoe_pages/ambroid.htm

I dind't even know it was waterproof!!

http://stunthanger.com/smf/open-foru...ng-made-again/

https://www.google.com/search?q=AMBR...w=1024&bih=596


but strong, and yet can be broken apart if you want later. Dries
quickly, smells good. Only sold in hobby stores. Tube never dries
out if you keep it sealed. I used one big tube for 20 years. (I
only learned about it because the hardware store at Myrtle Ave. in
downtown Brookly had two cartons of them on sale cheap because they
were all beat up, each tube had been squeezed and bent, but that's the
tube that lasted 20 years.

Five-minute epoxee in the syringe is very good for many many things.

PC-7 and PC-11, very very strong, sticks to almost anything including
glass (at least the demo showed that. I've never needed to glue
anything to glass.) Moldable, space filler. Can be applied to a
dripping drain (because the drain had a hole in it and the faucet
washer was no good) and still dries and stops the leak. I lost the
cap to a wine sack, put vaseline on the threads, molded some PC-7
around it, put a hole through for a string, and when it tried, I
unscrewed it and now it's a cap. I patched a leaking pot and then
forgot and boiled all the water out, but it still didn't leak. I
even made replacement teeth on the gear of a commercial "egg" mixer,
but that only worked for a couple minutes. (I should have roughed up
the glossy area where most of the glue went, but I was only 19 y.o.)
I've never used PC-11 iirc, and I don't understand the difference. The
label says PC-11 is for water areas -- well I guess that's the
difference but 7 seemed to work well there too. 7 is dark grey and 11
is white.

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On Sat, 27 Aug 2016 22:19:27 -0400, Micky
wrote:

On Fri, 26 Aug 2016 12:09:06 -0400, Micky
wrote:



Silicone glue/sealant pretty much sticks to everything, is flexible and


You're talking about GE silicone sealant that comes in white, black**,
clear, and iirc silver??? **Black is only sold at autoparts
stores.

shockproof, and can be peeled off without damaging anything if you need to
have another go.
Win, win, win, in my book, I rarely use anything else now.


I use it too, but I also use:

Contact cement is good for cloth etc. because it bends, even after
drying. It used to be Weldwood in the red tube and not Weldwood in
the white tube, but that was decades ago and has probably changed.

Android cement is good for almost everything, not as strong as epoxy


Oops. Ambroid Glue


Double Oops. It's actually a cement, like I said in the first place.

http://www.ottertooth.com/Canoe_pages/ambroid.htm

I dind't even know it was waterproof!!

http://stunthanger.com/smf/open-foru...ng-made-again/

https://www.google.com/search?q=AMBR...w=1024&bih=596


but strong, and yet can be broken apart if you want later. Dries
quickly, smells good. Only sold in hobby stores. Tube never dries
out if you keep it sealed. I used one big tube for 20 years. (I
only learned about it because the hardware store at Myrtle Ave. in
downtown Brookly had two cartons of them on sale cheap because they
were all beat up, each tube had been squeezed and bent, but that's the
tube that lasted 20 years.

Five-minute epoxee in the syringe is very good for many many things.

PC-7 and PC-11, very very strong, sticks to almost anything including
glass (at least the demo showed that. I've never needed to glue
anything to glass.) Moldable, space filler. Can be applied to a
dripping drain (because the drain had a hole in it and the faucet
washer was no good) and still dries and stops the leak. I lost the
cap to a wine sack, put vaseline on the threads, molded some PC-7
around it, put a hole through for a string, and when it tried, I
unscrewed it and now it's a cap. I patched a leaking pot and then
forgot and boiled all the water out, but it still didn't leak. I
even made replacement teeth on the gear of a commercial "egg" mixer,
but that only worked for a couple minutes. (I should have roughed up
the glossy area where most of the glue went, but I was only 19 y.o.)
I've never used PC-11 iirc, and I don't understand the difference. The
label says PC-11 is for water areas -- well I guess that's the
difference but 7 seemed to work well there too. 7 is dark grey and 11
is white.

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On Saturday, August 27, 2016 at 2:34:11 PM UTC-7, bitrex wrote:
Just for reference, the fashion of ribbon cable clip that's damaged
looks similar to this:

http://www.insidemylaptop.com/images...erboard-11.jpg

The clip pins are damaged and it won't latch down to secure the ribbon.

I misunderstood. Somehow, I thought you meant a standard SATA data connector.

Anyway, this Molex connector from Digikey looks pretty similar:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detai...UcaQodpF gG3w

Assuming you cable has its wires on a standard pitch, it should be possible and easy to find a mating pair to replace your broken ones.
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