60's-vintage motor overload heaters
http://imgur.com/yIx0dC6
Original on the left, purchased replacement on the right. Questioning whether these are equivalent for an old General Electric motor starter overload (CR106). Seems like slightly different approaches to get a bimetalic bend effect when a specified current flows through each of these. One requires a resistance wire to heat the metal, whereas the newer one incorporates the resistance in the metal? Is that whats happening? Does the element do the physical €śtripping€ť of the OL, or do these do nothing more than generate heat which heats up the separate mechanism that opens N.C. contacts? Thanks. |
60's-vintage motor overload heaters
On 1 Jun 2016, Ralph Mowery wrote:
I think you will find that you have 2 that are of greatly different current ranges. The one with the wire is a much smaller current rating than the large flat one. You are correct! (c; With the wi 5.46A; without: 19.8A. So they are compatible (will work in the same OL)? Thanks. |
60's-vintage motor overload heaters
|
60's-vintage motor overload heaters
On Wed, 01 Jun 2016 20:38:08 -0700, DaveC wrote:
http://imgur.com/yIx0dC6 Original on the left, purchased replacement on the right. Questioning whether these are equivalent for an old General Electric motor starter overload (CR106). Seems like slightly different approaches to get a bimetalic bend effect when a specified current flows through each of these. One requires a resistance wire to heat the metal, whereas the newer one incorporates the resistance in the metal? Is that what’s happening? Does the element do the physical “tripping” of the OL, or do these do nothing more than generate heat which heats up the separate mechanism that opens N.C. contacts? Thanks. Measure the resistances! -- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc picosecond timing precision measurement jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com |
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