I have an ancient HP Color Laserjet 3600N, I picked up a few months
back. Nice printer. So nice, that after a few months, I took the plunge
and bought a bunch of toner cartridges for the thing. As luck would have
it, it has just thrown up a fuser error (50.8). At first, the error was
intermittant, now it is permanent. Questions:

* Service data source?
* Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is
astronomical?
* Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I
just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?
* I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element)
and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still
gets hot)?

Any suggestions will be welcome. After spending almost 300 Bucks on
toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd
prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.

TIA

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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On 21/02/16 17:22, Trevor Wilson wrote:
I have an ancient HP Color Laserjet 3600N, I picked up a few months
back. Nice printer. So nice, that after a few months, I took the plunge
and bought a bunch of toner cartridges for the thing. As luck would have
it, it has just thrown up a fuser error (50.8). At first, the error was
intermittant, now it is permanent. Questions:

* Service data source?
* Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is
astronomical?
* Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I
just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?
* I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element)
and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still
gets hot)?

Just a couple of random thoughts...

I've disassembled a couple of mono HP laser printers. The fuser is
heated by a long halogen lamp inside a thin-walled metal (aluminium?)
tube, which is coated with something very slick, perhaps PTFE. The
thermo switch is just an on-off bi-metal thing that rides against the
fuser tube - with surprisingly little signs of wear on the ones I took
apart.

Bottom line, you should see bright light from the end of the fuser tube
when it fires up, and perhaps you can measure the current draw?

The fuser is very... central. Lots of disassembly to get to it.

Clifford Heath.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 17:22:31 +1100, Trevor Wilson wrote:

I have an ancient HP Color Laserjet 3600N, I picked up a few months
back. Nice printer. So nice, that after a few months, I took the plunge
and bought a bunch of toner cartridges for the thing. As luck would have
it, it has just thrown up a fuser error (50.8). At first, the error was
intermittant, now it is permanent. Questions:

* Service data source?

good luck. I've looked for HP service manuals over the years and the ones
on offer are nothing more than user manuals.

* Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is
astronomical?
* Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I
just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?

Should be a bog standard part throughout the world. They just swap power
supplies for each market.

* I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element)
and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still
gets hot)?

Any suggestions will be welcome. After spending almost 300 Bucks on
toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd
prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.

Lol, I've got $1,000 of inkjet ink here that I'll never get to use.
Then there is the $800 of backup tapes with few uses,
Lol, I've even got ~50 Nec Pinwriter ribbons that will never get used and
there is two working printers still.

TIA

On 02/20/2016 10:22 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
I have an ancient HP Color Laserjet 3600N, I picked up a few months
back. Nice printer. So nice, that after a few months, I took the plunge
and bought a bunch of toner cartridges for the thing. As luck would have
it, it has just thrown up a fuser error (50.8). At first, the error was
intermittant, now it is permanent. Questions:

* Service data source?
* Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is
astronomical?
* Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I
just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?
* I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element)
and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still
gets hot)?

Any suggestions will be welcome. After spending almost 300 Bucks on
toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd
prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.

TIA


If your machine engine is anything like the Laserjet 4/5 I have those
service manuals and can send them to you - at least you would have an
idea about how the fuser is put together on another model...

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

On 21/02/2016 17:22, Trevor Wilson wrote:
I have an ancient HP Color Laserjet 3600N, I picked up a few months
back. Nice printer. So nice, that after a few months, I took the plunge
and bought a bunch of toner cartridges for the thing. As luck would have
it, it has just thrown up a fuser error (50.8). At first, the error was
intermittant, now it is permanent. Questions:

* Service data source?
* Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is
astronomical?
* Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I
just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?
* I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element)
and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still
gets hot)?

Any suggestions will be welcome. After spending almost 300 Bucks on
toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd
prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.

TIA


Anything useful here for you?

http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/?pr...e arch=Search

Colin

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In sci.electronics.repair John Robertson wrote:

If your machine engine is anything like the Laserjet 4/5 I have those
service manuals and can send them to you - at least you would have an
idea about how the fuser is put together on another model...

I don't see how those would be close, the 4's and 5's were single toner
cartridge mono printers and the 3600n is a 4 cart color. It's easily 2x
taller and much more complex with the paper path and toner loading.

I don't have a manual either but I beleive on a 3600 the fuser is a user
replacement part. There is some way of getting the old one out and new one
in without disassembly of the printer itself. It looks like a toner
cartridge, a little smaller.

Even if the OP thinks it's getting warm, it still is likely to be defective.
Those things, if they don't get to temp within a period of time, it'll show
as a failure, too much current draw from it coming on and off too rapidly is
also shown as a failure.

If it's showing a fuser failure on the lcd panel, the best move is to
replace it and see what happens. Personally I think the OP sort of made a
mistake trying to get it going via the purchase of the toner carts. If it
was the other way around, had good toner carts but a fuser error, it would
of been worth the risk.

Those printers don't get better with age. Even if a replacement fuser is
around $100(USD), likely it'll start having paper feed problems because of
the rollers and depending on the number of prints already on it, whatever
they use for the "drum" is going to start streaking or print bands.

It's not ancient, unless you call 10 years that, but those aren't your
mothers laserprinters either. I'm just saying all those (the 3500 and 3600)
are probably at the end of their lifespan now.

One thing with those that always drove me nuts is the fact that even if one
color cart (like yellow) runs out, the whole printer locks up until it's
replaced, even if you just want to do a black and white invoice. There is a
way around that, if you prepare it in advance, but then the printer lives in
this "test mode" which gets annoying.

One other comment about the carts he purchased, unless someone is looking
for them, they are worthless. I just tossed a 3500N last month for all the
above reasons and had 10 carts. 2 brand new in the box from HP direct, the 4
that were in the printer (half to 100% full) and 4 spent ones.

After checking with a half dozen "we buy old toner and ink cart" places, 3
of them offer nothing and didn't want any of them, two others offered
nothing but would send a label (recycle y'all) and only one place offered
nothing for the spent ones, 50 cents for the still usable ones and get this,
a whole dollar for the unopened factory ones.

-bruce

"Clifford Heath" wrote in message ...

.. . .

I've disassembled a couple of mono HP laser printers. The fuser is heated
by a long halogen lamp inside a thin-walled metal (aluminium?) tube, which
is coated with something very slick, perhaps PTFE. The thermo switch is
just an on-off bi-metal thing that rides against the fuser tube - with
surprisingly little signs of wear on the ones I took apart.

When I got "fuser error" on an ancient mono HP Laserjet, I also found that
fusers were expensive, although I did also turn up some place that sold
replacement heating elements. For that model, there was a ceramic element
and a thermistor in the fuser.

However, my tests and measurements showed no obvious problem with the fuser
and I came to the conclusion that the problem was in the controller board. I
established that power was getting supplied to the heater, but ended up
replacing the control board with one from another printer which itself was
actually working but had seen a lot more use than the first one.

For the record, the repaired Laserjet still works today - it is way over 20
years old now.

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 17:22:31 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

* Service data source?

http://www.FixYourOwnPrinter.com
http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/?printer_brand=9&printer_series=61&printer=1988&Se arch=Search
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Color-LaserJet-3000-Printer-series/501044/model/501046/manuals
http://www.PrinterWorks.com
http://www.lbrty.com
http://partsurfer.hp.com
http://partsurfer.hp.com/Search.aspx?type=PROD&SearchText=Q5987A

Service Manual:
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Color-LaserJet-3000-Printer-series/501044/model/501046/manuals
There are also dealers on eBay selling manuals on CD or download.

* Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is
astronomical?

Yes, it can be repaired with a rebuild kit.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+color+laserjet+fuser+rebuild
The rebuild kits do NOT include a heater and are therefore indpendent
of line voltage. If you've never done it before and/or lack specific
instructions, I suggest you go for a rebuild or exchange fuser
instead.

http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=emr_na-c00508146
For 220VAC the fuser PN is RM1-2743-000
For 117VAC the fuser PN is RM1-2665-000

* Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I
just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?

That's NOT an either-or type choice. Yes, you can buy a rebuilt fuser
on eBay, but it has to be 220VAC type for AU.

* I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element)
and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still
gets hot)?

If the temperature sensing circuit has had a failure, you'll get an
error message on the display during boot up. There is also an
overtemp thermostat to prevent meltdown.

The usual failures that I see are hardened toner buildup on the
fingers that peel the paper away from the fuser roller, a fried fuser
film sleeve, and worn gear teeth.

Any suggestions will be welcome. After spending almost 300 Bucks on
toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd
prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.

$500 for a fuser is far too much.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=hp+3600n+fuser
No clue about AU prices. For 220VAC, email the vendor. Most
rebuilders carry both voltages or can possibly swap out the heater
element.
--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 22/02/2016 7:16 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 17:22:31 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

* Service data source?

http://www.FixYourOwnPrinter.com
http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/?printer_brand=9&printer_series=61&printer=1988&Se arch=Search
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Color-LaserJet-3000-Printer-series/501044/model/501046/manuals
http://www.PrinterWorks.com
http://www.lbrty.com
http://partsurfer.hp.com
http://partsurfer.hp.com/Search.aspx?type=PROD&SearchText=Q5987A

Service Manual:
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Color-LaserJet-3000-Printer-series/501044/model/501046/manuals
There are also dealers on eBay selling manuals on CD or download.

* Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is
astronomical?

Yes, it can be repaired with a rebuild kit.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+color+laserjet+fuser+rebuild
The rebuild kits do NOT include a heater and are therefore indpendent
of line voltage. If you've never done it before and/or lack specific
instructions, I suggest you go for a rebuild or exchange fuser
instead.

http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=emr_na-c00508146
For 220VAC the fuser PN is RM1-2743-000
For 117VAC the fuser PN is RM1-2665-000

* Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I
just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?

That's NOT an either-or type choice. Yes, you can buy a rebuilt fuser
on eBay, but it has to be 220VAC type for AU.

* I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element)
and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still
gets hot)?

If the temperature sensing circuit has had a failure, you'll get an
error message on the display during boot up. There is also an
overtemp thermostat to prevent meltdown.

The usual failures that I see are hardened toner buildup on the
fingers that peel the paper away from the fuser roller, a fried fuser
film sleeve, and worn gear teeth.

Any suggestions will be welcome. After spending almost 300 Bucks on
toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd
prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.

$500 for a fuser is far too much.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=hp+3600n+fuser
No clue about AU prices. For 220VAC, email the vendor. Most
rebuilders carry both voltages or can possibly swap out the heater
element.


**Awesome! Thanks for the info and the links.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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"Trevor Wilson" wrote in message ...

On 22/02/2016 7:16 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 17:22:31 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

* Service data source?

http://www.FixYourOwnPrinter.com
http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/?printer_brand=9&printer_series=61&printer=1988&Se arch=Search
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Color-LaserJet-3000-Printer-series/501044/model/501046/manuals
http://www.PrinterWorks.com
http://www.lbrty.com
http://partsurfer.hp.com
http://partsurfer.hp.com/Search.aspx?type=PROD&SearchText=Q5987A

Service Manual:
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Color-LaserJet-3000-Printer-series/501044/model/501046/manuals
There are also dealers on eBay selling manuals on CD or download.

* Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is
astronomical?

Yes, it can be repaired with a rebuild kit.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+color+laserjet+fuser+rebuild
The rebuild kits do NOT include a heater and are therefore indpendent
of line voltage. If you've never done it before and/or lack specific
instructions, I suggest you go for a rebuild or exchange fuser
instead.

http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=emr_na-c00508146
For 220VAC the fuser PN is RM1-2743-000
For 117VAC the fuser PN is RM1-2665-000

* Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I
just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?

That's NOT an either-or type choice. Yes, you can buy a rebuilt fuser
on eBay, but it has to be 220VAC type for AU.

* I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element)
and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still
gets hot)?

If the temperature sensing circuit has had a failure, you'll get an
error message on the display during boot up. There is also an
overtemp thermostat to prevent meltdown.

The usual failures that I see are hardened toner buildup on the
fingers that peel the paper away from the fuser roller, a fried fuser
film sleeve, and worn gear teeth.

Any suggestions will be welcome. After spending almost 300 Bucks on
toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd
prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.

$500 for a fuser is far too much.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=hp+3600n+fuser
No clue about AU prices. For 220VAC, email the vendor. Most
rebuilders carry both voltages or can possibly swap out the heater
element.


**Awesome! Thanks for the info and the links.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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Hope this helps:
http://ridl.cfd.rit.edu/products/man...e_Manual.p df

Kenny Cargill

On 22/02/2016 7:16 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 17:22:31 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

* Service data source?

http://www.FixYourOwnPrinter.com
http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/?printer_brand=9&printer_series=61&printer=1988&Se arch=Search
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Color-LaserJet-3000-Printer-series/501044/model/501046/manuals
http://www.PrinterWorks.com
http://www.lbrty.com
http://partsurfer.hp.com
http://partsurfer.hp.com/Search.aspx?type=PROD&SearchText=Q5987A

Service Manual:
http://support.hp.com/us-en/product/HP-Color-LaserJet-3000-Printer-series/501044/model/501046/manuals
There are also dealers on eBay selling manuals on CD or download.

* Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is
astronomical?

Yes, it can be repaired with a rebuild kit.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+color+laserjet+fuser+rebuild
The rebuild kits do NOT include a heater and are therefore indpendent
of line voltage. If you've never done it before and/or lack specific
instructions, I suggest you go for a rebuild or exchange fuser
instead.

http://h20564.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?docId=emr_na-c00508146
For 220VAC the fuser PN is RM1-2743-000
For 117VAC the fuser PN is RM1-2665-000

* Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I
just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?

That's NOT an either-or type choice. Yes, you can buy a rebuilt fuser
on eBay, but it has to be 220VAC type for AU.

* I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element)
and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still
gets hot)?

If the temperature sensing circuit has had a failure, you'll get an
error message on the display during boot up. There is also an
overtemp thermostat to prevent meltdown.

The usual failures that I see are hardened toner buildup on the
fingers that peel the paper away from the fuser roller, a fried fuser
film sleeve, and worn gear teeth.

Any suggestions will be welcome. After spending almost 300 Bucks on
toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd
prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.

$500 for a fuser is far too much.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=hp+3600n+fuser
No clue about AU prices. For 220VAC, email the vendor. Most
rebuilders carry both voltages or can possibly swap out the heater
element.


**Looks like my only solution is this:

* Buy a replacement fuser and hope that is the only fault. Cost will
exceed AUS$300.00.
* Buy a new printer. I found a multifunction device from HP, which would
do the job. Model MFP M177FW. RRP AUS$329.00. For a few more Bucks
(about AUS$300.00), I could buy a Dell C2665dnf. Thoughts?

There's a Samsung in the mix, but I purchased a Samsung a couple of
years back. Atrocious POS. A simple paper jam would typically take 30
mins to clear. After owning 4 HP printers, I have always found that
paper jams are quickly and easily cleared. I a leaning towards HP for
that reason.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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Trevor Wilson wrote:

I have an ancient HP Color Laserjet 3600N, I picked up a few months
back. Nice printer. So nice, that after a few months, I took the plunge
and bought a bunch of toner cartridges for the thing. As luck would have
it, it has just thrown up a fuser error (50.8). At first, the error was
intermittant, now it is permanent. Questions:

* Service data source?
* Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is
astronomical?
* Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I
just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?
* I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element)
and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still
gets hot)?

Ok, if the fuser heater is still working, then find the sensor (there will
usually be two, a control thermostat and a safety thermostat). Trace the
wires back to whatever board controls the fuser, and reseat the connectors.
That may fix it. If not, pull that board and look for crumbling solder
joints on the connectors. If nothing there, then dismantle the fuser and
check that the sensors still have contact with the fuser roller, aren't
covered in melted toner, etc. Then, you have to decide whther to replace
the sensors or the control board.

And, the most awesome resource is :
http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/

They have discussions and instruction on how to fix all sorts of problems.

Jon

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 10:05:32 +1100, Trevor Wilson wrote:


There's a Samsung in the mix, but I purchased a Samsung a couple of
years back. Atrocious POS. A simple paper jam would typically take 30
mins to clear.

This is where simple text can not convey my similar loathing.
Our Samsung color laser seems to be racking up ~ $200/1,000 pages printed.

After owning 4 HP printers, I have always found that
paper jams are quickly and easily cleared. I a leaning towards HP for
that reason.

Our HP5simx went to ****ty print and the "service/maintenace" was ~$500
about a decade ago. Sits idle atm, despite having a new full toner
cartridge in it. Once HP could lock you it to their toner cartridges,
the $ went through the roof.


The real HP POS is/was the 4V. Its sinuous paper path was never popular
and even the service techs hated it. The first time it locked onto a mysterious
error, I paid for a expensive service call. Now, it is just another POS
for deconstruction.

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 10:05:32 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

On 22/02/2016 7:16 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Yes, it can be repaired with a rebuild kit.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+color+laserjet+fuser+rebuild

**Looks like my only solution is this:

* Buy a replacement fuser and hope that is the only fault. Cost will
exceed AUS$300.00.
* Buy a new printer. I found a multifunction device from HP, which would
do the job. Model MFP M177FW. RRP AUS$329.00. For a few more Bucks
(about AUS$300.00), I could buy a Dell C2665dnf. Thoughts?

Sigh.
1. You didn't bother to mention what is wrong with the fuser. It
might be an easy fix requiring a minimum of parts and expertise.
Extract the fuser and look at it. Most problems can be found by
visual inspection.
2. Dell printers are VERY proprietary. Obtaining parts are almost
impossible. I hate them.
3. Consumer grade HP printers, including the MFP M177FW are mostly
junk. They are built flimsy, have designed in wear problems, and
rattle badly when printing. Same problem with parts as Dell except
that you can sometimes find the larger sub-assemblies with HP. The
US$300 entry price is reasonable. Replacement carts vary from US$50
(eBay) to US$250 (HP). You'll get about 1000 pages per cart at 5%
coverage, yielding a cost per page of US$0.05 to US$0.25 per page
depending on where you buy the cartridge. However, if you're printing
full page 8x10 photos, your costs will be over 10 times higher due to
increased coverage. Do the math before you take the plunge.

There's a Samsung in the mix, but I purchased a Samsung a couple of
years back. Atrocious POS. A simple paper jam would typically take 30
mins to clear.

Yep. Also some difficulties finding replacement cartridges. I have
to deal with an office full of them. I think there are about 20
Samsung printers scattered around. I fix them by cannibalism.
Eventually I'll run out of parts printers, which is fine with me.

After owning 4 HP printers, I have always found that
paper jams are quickly and easily cleared. I a leaning towards HP for
that reason.

I used to thing that paper jams were normal for laser printers. Then,
I got a lecture on how they work, why they jam, and what can be done
to solve the problem. Very roughly, I keep the machine clean, replace
the rubber feed rollers and friction pads regularly, and make an
effort not to let the paper absorb moisture or form any shape besides
flat. I also clean the stripper fingers, fuser roller, and plastic
parts that contact the paper. On printers that I've worked over, and
my own, I don't see very many paper jams.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 01:39:34 -0000 (UTC), news13
wrote:

Our HP5simx went to ****ty print and the "service/maintenace" was ~$500
about a decade ago. Sits idle atm, despite having a new full toner
cartridge in it. Once HP could lock you it to their toner cartridges,
the $ went through the roof.

The HP 5si is an a very old printer and about the size and weight of
half a refrigerator (without the Mopier options). I dealt with a few
of those (and the 4si predecessor) many years ago. During tax season
it ran continuously like a printing press. Keeping it clean and cool
were the major problems. Every year, I would tear the printers down
completely, clean out the accumulated crud, replace all the rubber
parts, and especially clean the fuser. Then the printer would get hot
from running all day, the paper would stick to the fuser and cause a
paper jam. The residue from the melted toner would stick to the fuser
roller, causing subsequent pages to have "ghost" impressions. I
couldn't fix the design and additional cooling was futile, so I
purchased some spare fuser assemblies and had them ready for a quick
swap. It was easy but leather welding gloves were helpful. The 5si
printers were eventually replaced with 4250 and 4300 printers, which
were faster, cheaper, better, cooler, but noisier.

The real HP POS is/was the 4V. Its sinuous paper path was never popular
and even the service techs hated it. The first time it locked onto a mysterious
error, I paid for a expensive service call. Now, it is just another POS
for deconstruction.

Yeah, but if you wanted B size prints (11x17") the 4V and 4MV were all
that could be found. The neighboring architects and planners that
wanted big prints without going to the expense of a plotter, both used
HP 4V printers. I would have to clean or fix them occasionally, but
nothing out of the ordinary.

The serpentine paper path above the paper tray is still with us on
todays printers. It's about the only way to obtain multiple paper
trays and duplex (double sided) printing without requiring a much
larger footprint. The price you pay is replacing the feed roller(s)
and friction pad(s) quite often. If you didn't clean and/or replace
these about every 10,000 pages, you're going to see feed problems.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 22/02/2016 1:28 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 10:05:32 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

On 22/02/2016 7:16 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Yes, it can be repaired with a rebuild kit.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+color+laserjet+fuser+rebuild

**Looks like my only solution is this:

* Buy a replacement fuser and hope that is the only fault. Cost will
exceed AUS$300.00.
* Buy a new printer. I found a multifunction device from HP, which would
do the job. Model MFP M177FW. RRP AUS$329.00. For a few more Bucks
(about AUS$300.00), I could buy a Dell C2665dnf. Thoughts?

Sigh.
1. You didn't bother to mention what is wrong with the fuser. It
might be an easy fix requiring a minimum of parts and expertise.
Extract the fuser and look at it. Most problems can be found by
visual inspection.

**The fuser appears to be OK, but then, without a manual, I cannot
measure what is inside the fuser to determine what, if anything, may be
faulty. My biggest fear is that the fuser may not be faulty and that it
may be something else. For that, I require a schematic.

2. Dell printers are VERY proprietary. Obtaining parts are almost
impossible. I hate them.

**OK. Scratch the Dell.

3. Consumer grade HP printers, including the MFP M177FW are mostly
junk. They are built flimsy, have designed in wear problems, and
rattle badly when printing. Same problem with parts as Dell except
that you can sometimes find the larger sub-assemblies with HP. The
US$300 entry price is reasonable. Replacement carts vary from US$50
(eBay) to US$250 (HP). You'll get about 1000 pages per cart at 5%
coverage, yielding a cost per page of US$0.05 to US$0.25 per page
depending on where you buy the cartridge. However, if you're printing
full page 8x10 photos, your costs will be over 10 times higher due to
increased coverage. Do the math before you take the plunge.

**If I print photos, I use an ink jet printer (which is now my back-up
printer for general purpose use). I've never seen a colour laser printer
that can match even a relatively inexpensive ink jet.


There's a Samsung in the mix, but I purchased a Samsung a couple of
years back. Atrocious POS. A simple paper jam would typically take 30
mins to clear.

Yep. Also some difficulties finding replacement cartridges. I have
to deal with an office full of them. I think there are about 20
Samsung printers scattered around. I fix them by cannibalism.
Eventually I'll run out of parts printers, which is fine with me.

After owning 4 HP printers, I have always found that
paper jams are quickly and easily cleared. I a leaning towards HP for
that reason.

I used to thing that paper jams were normal for laser printers. Then,
I got a lecture on how they work, why they jam, and what can be done
to solve the problem. Very roughly, I keep the machine clean, replace
the rubber feed rollers and friction pads regularly, and make an
effort not to let the paper absorb moisture or form any shape besides
flat. I also clean the stripper fingers, fuser roller, and plastic
parts that contact the paper. On printers that I've worked over, and
my own, I don't see very many paper jams.


**In fairness, paper jams in all my HP lasers have been extremely rare.
FWIW: I've owned LJIIP, LJIIIP, LJVMP (still own that one - still works,
but nothing talks to it, except IR).

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:59:33 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

**The fuser appears to be OK, but then, without a manual, I cannot
measure what is inside the fuser to determine what, if anything, may be
faulty. My biggest fear is that the fuser may not be faulty and that it
may be something else. For that, I require a schematic.

Ok, you've decided that you want a new printer and you're not
supplying enough information to even diagnose the alleged fuser
problem. If you can't describe what's wrong with the fuser, could you
at least describe what inspired you to purchase a new printer?

**If I print photos, I use an ink jet printer (which is now my back-up
printer for general purpose use). I've never seen a colour laser printer
that can match even a relatively inexpensive ink jet.

I have, but only after calibration, loading the correct color profile
into the computah, and using glossy paper:
https://www.google.com/#q=color+laser+printer+calibration
Unless your ink sprayer is using archival quality ink, that doesn't
fade in sunlight, you're gorgeous inkjet prints will fade. The colors
also run when the paper gets wet, but unless you live in a high
humidity environment, that's unlikely to happen.

**In fairness, paper jams in all my HP lasers have been extremely rare.
FWIW: I've owned LJIIP, LJIIIP, LJVMP (still own that one - still works,
but nothing talks to it, except IR).

Retch. The LJIIp was the worlds slowest small laser printer in its
day. It also had the irritating habit of destroying the driver board
that spins the scanning mirror. Pre-warming the fuser on startup
would take over a minute for a cold start. The LJIIIp was a slightly
faster version of the worlds slowest small laser printer.

I've only worked on one LJ5mp and don't recall what I hated about it.
I do recall hauling a fairly large number of 5p, 6p, 5mp, and 6mp
printers to the recyclers after everyone agreed that they were not
worth resurrecting.

Favorite printer (with some caveats) is the HP 2300DN and DTN.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/hp2200/hp2200.html
If you want cheap, one of the low end Brother AIO printers:
http://www.staples.com/Brother-Refurbished-MFC-7360N-Laser-Multifunction-Printer/product_424336

If this were my problem, I would fix the color laserjet 3600N fuser,
refill your existing carts with more toner, and get some reset chips
to deal with HP ecologically disgusting refill protection:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+3600+toner
In my never humble opinion, the 3600N is better than any of the
alternatives you've listed, and will probably last forever if you take
care of it.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 18:44:35 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

Yeah, but if you wanted B size prints (11x17") the 4V and 4MV were all
that could be found.

That was why I got it. A3 over here.

If you didn't clean and/or replace
these about every 10,000 pages, you're going to see feed problems.

Naah, never got to that count. It was the continual error codes.

Need passed and it just became easier to buy something else.

Bottom feeder crap these days as I don't have the $$$ paying demand
for printing.

Back then, the real problem was getting someone who would share information
and then getting supplies of parts. Internet sources have come on a bit since then.

On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 10:49:32 PM UTC-8, news13 wrote:
On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 17:22:31 +1100, Trevor Wilson wrote:

I have an ancient HP Color Laserjet ...
it has just thrown up a fuser error

* Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is
astronomical?
* Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I
just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?

Should be a bog standard part throughout the world. They just swap power
supplies for each market.

The fuser heater is directly driven by AC; it will be a 230V lamp-like unit and possibly
driven by a different switch (relay, or triac) than used in other countries. I'd look for a relay
and think about how to clean it and burnish the contacts, and clean connectors, first.
Fuser heaters used to be common, inexpensive replacement items (on
LaserJet 4 machines, about $15 US). The whole fuser didn't
need to be replaced to swap out the heater.

On 22/02/2016 4:06 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:59:33 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

**The fuser appears to be OK, but then, without a manual, I cannot
measure what is inside the fuser to determine what, if anything, may be
faulty. My biggest fear is that the fuser may not be faulty and that it
may be something else. For that, I require a schematic.

Ok, you've decided that you want a new printer and you're not
supplying enough information to even diagnose the alleged fuser
problem. If you can't describe what's wrong with the fuser, could you
at least describe what inspired you to purchase a new printer?

**Every reference points towards me buying a new fuser. The cheapest
option will be more than AUS$300.00. And that may not fix the fault. I'd
prefer not to spend a huge chunk of cash on an ancient, but quite
decent, printer. That said, I have just located a service manual for the
3000, 3600 & 3800 (but not the 'N' variant). It is a very large file and
will take some time to complete, but, hopefully, will shed some light on
what is inside the fuser and how to pull the damned thing apart.


**If I print photos, I use an ink jet printer (which is now my back-up
printer for general purpose use). I've never seen a colour laser printer
that can match even a relatively inexpensive ink jet.

I have, but only after calibration, loading the correct color profile
into the computah, and using glossy paper:
https://www.google.com/#q=color+laser+printer+calibration
Unless your ink sprayer is using archival quality ink, that doesn't
fade in sunlight, you're gorgeous inkjet prints will fade. The colors
also run when the paper gets wet, but unless you live in a high
humidity environment, that's unlikely to happen.

**In fairness, paper jams in all my HP lasers have been extremely rare.
FWIW: I've owned LJIIP, LJIIIP, LJVMP (still own that one - still works,
but nothing talks to it, except IR).

Retch. The LJIIp was the worlds slowest small laser printer in its
day. It also had the irritating habit of destroying the driver board
that spins the scanning mirror. Pre-warming the fuser on startup
would take over a minute for a cold start. The LJIIIp was a slightly
faster version of the worlds slowest small laser printer.

**Nonetheless, the little HP Laserjets never gave me a moment's trouble.
Slow, but reliable (for me).


I've only worked on one LJ5mp and don't recall what I hated about it.
I do recall hauling a fairly large number of 5p, 6p, 5mp, and 6mp
printers to the recyclers after everyone agreed that they were not
worth resurrecting.

Favorite printer (with some caveats) is the HP 2300DN and DTN.
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/hp2200/hp2200.html
If you want cheap, one of the low end Brother AIO printers:
http://www.staples.com/Brother-Refurbished-MFC-7360N-Laser-Multifunction-Printer/product_424336

If this were my problem, I would fix the color laserjet 3600N fuser,
refill your existing carts with more toner, and get some reset chips
to deal with HP ecologically disgusting refill protection:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+3600+toner
In my never humble opinion, the 3600N is better than any of the
alternatives you've listed, and will probably last forever if you take
care of it.


**OK. I will take that approach. I should be able to survive on what I
have lying around for the present. I just found a Brother laser printer,
which should do most of my printing needs for the next few weeks (it'll
take that long to import a new fuser).


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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On 22/02/2016 4:06 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:59:33 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

**The fuser appears to be OK, but then, without a manual, I cannot
measure what is inside the fuser to determine what, if anything, may be
faulty. My biggest fear is that the fuser may not be faulty and that it
may be something else. For that, I require a schematic.

Ok, you've decided that you want a new printer and you're not
supplying enough information to even diagnose the alleged fuser
problem. If you can't describe what's wrong with the fuser, could you
at least describe what inspired you to purchase a new printer?

**Good news bad news time. I now have the service manual for this
device. No useful schematics. Just block diagrams and hundreds of pages
of mechanical drawings and photos. Quite comprehensive in it's own way.
The good news is that I now have a proper interpretation of the fault code.

50.8 = Low fuser temperature (Subthermistor)

Would I be crazy to buy one of these?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RM1-2764-RM1...AOSwnDxUgFp 3


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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On 21/02/16 06:22, Trevor Wilson wrote:
I have an ancient HP Color Laserjet 3600N, I picked up a few months
back. Nice printer. So nice, that after a few months, I took the plunge
and bought a bunch of toner cartridges for the thing. As luck would have
it, it has just thrown up a fuser error (50.8). At first, the error was
intermittant, now it is permanent. Questions:

* Service data source?
* Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is
astronomical?
* Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I
just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?
* I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element)
and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still
gets hot)?

Any suggestions will be welcome. After spending almost 300 Bucks on
toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd
prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.

You are patient. These things are sloooooowww.

Whatever, keep a lookout on the secondhand market for these.

I find the current HP driver that allegedly works on Windows 7 rather
buggy, and as part of a company job I did building a 2012R2 print
server, we decided the best course of upgrade action was to
unfortunately throw out the printers. I bet others came to that conclusion.

--
Adrian C

On 23/02/16 09:13, Trevor Wilson wrote:
The good news is that I now have a proper interpretation of the fault code.
50.8 = Low fuser temperature (Subthermistor)

Can you measure the actual temperature of the fuser and compare it with
what the manual says?

It'd be a shame to buy a whole new fuser if it's only the thermister
that's bad.

Clifford Heath.

On 2/21/2016 2:22 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
I have an ancient HP Color Laserjet 3600N, I picked up a few months
back. Nice printer. So nice, that after a few months, I took the plunge
and bought a bunch of toner cartridges for the thing. As luck would have
it, it has just thrown up a fuser error (50.8). At first, the error was
intermittant, now it is permanent. Questions:

Did you phone/email HP Australia if not US?

Maybe that's why the printer was discarded in the first place....

--
@~@ Remain silent. Nothing from soldiers and magicians is real!
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
/( _ )\ (Fedora release 23) Linux 4.3.5-300.fc23.x86_64
^ ^ 06:27:01 up 6 days 13:21 0 users load average: 1.00 1.02 1.05
�借貸! ��騙! ��交! �打交! �打劫! �自殺! 請考慮綜� (CSSA):
http://www.swd.gov.hk/tc/index/site_...sub_addressesa

On Tue, 23 Feb 2016 08:43:37 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

On 22/02/2016 4:06 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

Ok, you've decided that you want a new printer and you're not
supplying enough information to even diagnose the alleged fuser
problem. If you can't describe what's wrong with the fuser, could you
at least describe what inspired you to purchase a new printer?

**Every reference points towards me buying a new fuser. The cheapest
option will be more than AUS$300.00. And that may not fix the fault. I'd
prefer not to spend a huge chunk of cash on an ancient, but quite
decent, printer. That said, I have just located a service manual for the
3000, 3600 & 3800 (but not the 'N' variant). It is a very large file and
will take some time to complete, but, hopefully, will shed some light on
what is inside the fuser and how to pull the damned thing apart.

Somehow, I seem to have missed the part where you describe what
inspired you to purchase a new printer and what failure mode you're
experiencing with the fuser. Perhaps it can be repaired. I think
you'll find the rebuild kit I previously mentioned a better and
cheaper alternative at $80:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+color+laserjet+fuser+rebuild

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Tue, 23 Feb 2016 09:13:00 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

**Good news bad news time. I now have the service manual for this
device. No useful schematics. Just block diagrams and hundreds of pages
of mechanical drawings and photos. Quite comprehensive in it's own way.
The good news is that I now have a proper interpretation of the fault code.

50.8 = Low fuser temperature (Subthermistor)

Thank you for delivering the error message.
http://www.all-laser.com/a50service/
I've seen that error message on other model HP printers. In my
experience, it can be anything from a loose connection on the ends of
the ceramic slab heater element, to cracks in the heater element.
Also, caked on toner onto the thermistor temp sensor will cause a low
temp reading. Measure the resistance of the heater element from end
to end and you should see about 15 for 117V and twice that for 220V. I
think I know where I can find a 3800 to measure, or just ask in the HP
forums or FixYourOwnPrinter forums.

This article suggests that it might be low line voltage:
http://www.fortwayneprinterrepair.com/wordpress/2011/11/06/hp-color-laserjet-3000-3600-3800-and-cp3505-50-1-fuser-error/

Also see:
http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/posts/42184
I'll try to find the unspecified service note, but so far, I'm not
having any luck finding it.

Meanwhile, dig through this mess on 50.1 errors and see what you can
excavate:
https://www.google.com/search?q=hp+color+laserjet+50.1+fuser+error

Would I be crazy to buy one of these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RM1-2764-RM1...AOSwnDxUgFp 3

Good find. I missed that one. Yes, that should work for 220V. I
checked the numbers. Since the rebuild kit does NOT include a heater
element, the replacment from China may be your only reasonable option.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 16:19:46 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

Meanwhile, dig through this mess on 50.1 errors and see what you can
excavate:
https://www.google.com/search?q=hp+color+laserjet+50.1+fuser+error

Sorry. 50.8, not 50.1. That's what happens when I get interrupted:
https://www.google.com/search?q=hp+color+laserjet+50.8+fuser+error

Replacing the fuser does not guarantee a fix:
http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/posts/1001356

Take a look at these typical HP fuser thermistors:
https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=HP+fuser+thermistor
That a tiny thermistor is wrapped in Kapton or something heat
resistant. What happens is that melted toner gets stuck to the face
of the thermistor causing the toner to act as an insulator. The
thermistor reads a lower temperature than what the fuser roller is
actually running, causing the fuser to become excessively hot.
Eventually, the fuser gets too hot and cracks the heater element,
producing an error message. If you're lucky, and catch it before the
heater cracks, just cleaning the ossified toner off the face of the
thermistor is usually sufficient to fix the problem.

This web site offers anything between 20 and 1000 ohms as acceptable
heater resistance for 220V:
http://mindmachine.co.uk/products/HP_Error_50X.html#diagnosing-fuser-faults
I still can't find a good target value for the 3600.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 16:39:10 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

One more and I'll go away and do something useful.

I think the HP Color LaserJet 3600N has three thermistors on the fuser
roller. The main one is in the middle. The other two, at each end of
the fuser roller, are called sub-thermistors. One of them is covered
with toner crud, or has otherwise failed. Be sure to check the fuser
film for mechanical damage.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On 23/02/2016 11:19 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Tue, 23 Feb 2016 09:13:00 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

**Good news bad news time. I now have the service manual for this
device. No useful schematics. Just block diagrams and hundreds of pages
of mechanical drawings and photos. Quite comprehensive in it's own way.
The good news is that I now have a proper interpretation of the fault code.

50.8 = Low fuser temperature (Subthermistor)

Thank you for delivering the error message.

**It is the same as the one I supplied in my original post.

http://www.all-laser.com/a50service/
I've seen that error message on other model HP printers. In my
experience, it can be anything from a loose connection on the ends of
the ceramic slab heater element, to cracks in the heater element.
Also, caked on toner onto the thermistor temp sensor will cause a low
temp reading. Measure the resistance of the heater element from end
to end and you should see about 15 for 117V and twice that for 220V. I
think I know where I can find a 3800 to measure, or just ask in the HP
forums or FixYourOwnPrinter forums.

**As soon as I figure out how to dismantle the fuser, I will check those
things.


This article suggests that it might be low line voltage:
http://www.fortwayneprinterrepair.com/wordpress/2011/11/06/hp-color-laserjet-3000-3600-3800-and-cp3505-50-1-fuser-error/

**Unlikely in my case.


Also see:
http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/posts/42184
I'll try to find the unspecified service note, but so far, I'm not
having any luck finding it.

Meanwhile, dig through this mess on 50.1 errors and see what you can
excavate:
https://www.google.com/search?q=hp+color+laserjet+50.1+fuser+error

Would I be crazy to buy one of these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/RM1-2764-RM1...AOSwnDxUgFp 3

Good find. I missed that one. Yes, that should work for 220V. I
checked the numbers. Since the rebuild kit does NOT include a heater
element, the replacment from China may be your only reasonable option.


**That was my thinking. I figure that I should probably replace the
heater, if I am overhauling the fuser. Anyway, thanks for all your
assistance. I'll keep you posted.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

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On Tue, 23 Feb 2016 16:12:08 +1100, Trevor Wilson
wrote:

**It is the same as the one I supplied in my original post.

Oops. I just went back and looked and there it was. My appologies.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

In sci.electronics.repair Trevor Wilson wrote:

**Every reference points towards me buying a new fuser. The cheapest
option will be more than AUS$300.00. And that may not fix the fault. I'd
prefer not to spend a huge chunk of cash on an ancient, but quite
decent, printer. That said, I have just located a service manual for the
3000, 3600 & 3800 (but not the 'N' variant). It is a very large file and
will take some time to complete, but, hopefully, will shed some light on
what is inside the fuser and how to pull the damned thing apart.

For what it's worth, there is no difference between the N and non-N
versions, mechanically.

The N version means it's network (ethernet) compatable instead of USB only.

Either it's built in or uses something like the en3700 adapter.

-bruce

In article ,
says...

... Measure the resistance of the heater element from end
to end and you should see about 15 for 117V and twice that for 220V.

Oh, same current and thus twice the power?

Mike.

On Tue, 23 Feb 2016 12:10:46 -0000, MJC
wrote:

In article ,
says...

... Measure the resistance of the heater element from end
to end and you should see about 15 for 117V and twice that for 220V.

Oh, same current and thus twice the power?
Mike.

Ooops. Some day, I'll learn to do arithmetic.

Power = Volt^2 / Resistance
For equal power at both line voltages:
P = 117^2 / 15 = 913 watts (cold)
913 = 220^2 / R
R = 220^2 / 913 = 53 ohms

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Trevor Wilson wrote:

So, any luck on that printer?

Jon

Trevor Wilson wrote:

On 4/03/2016 9:17 AM, Jon Elson wrote:
Trevor Wilson wrote:

So, any luck on that printer?

Jon


**Thanks for asking. I've decided to head in a completely different
direction. I've been able to source one of these:

http://au.pcmag.com/hp-laserjet-ente...500-color-mfp-
m575dn/1374/review/hp-laserjet-enterprise-500-color-mfp-m575dn#

for AUS$400.00. It has full toner cartridges (except one, which is at
20%). It has a full service history (it came from a large corporation,
that has swapped out all it's printers from one section) and was factory
serviced a couple of months ago. I'll be checking print quality and
collecting it next week.

Well, that may be a good plan if you really need a color laser. I got a
color laser off the loading dock at work, it had a sticky clutch solenoid,
and after fixing that, it generally works. But, the print quality is
mediocre, and it uses a HUGE amount of toner every time you turn it on, or
if it has sat for more than 30 minutes, it has to "recalibrate".

But, I've had good luck fixing the 2 monochrome printers we have here.

Jon