No physical protection to too easily breaking the exposed glass bottles
http://elderly.com/vintage/items/ima...-9104_back.jpg
I intend drilling to half depth, holes in the cab either side. Then some
steel studding of length of the internal cab width plus one hole depth.
Some silicone sleeve over that (could be heatshrink tube) , just to
disguise the threading, then a nut on either end. When in place , wind
out the nuts , to engage with the cab, then some nail varnish as threadlock.
Any other ideas I might consider?

As the studding will bend a bit over that length and no proper end
anchors, I'll add a brace to a subverted chassis fixing screw. 90 degree
twist to that piece of hardware shop bracing strip , one hole opened out
to pass the studding to near midway of the stud length and another pair
of nuts either side. I could then increase the length of the studding
rod a bit, so it will bow outward, and stay in position, to increase the
freeboard to the bottles.

N_Cook wrote:

No physical protection to too easily breaking the exposed glass bottles
http://elderly.com/vintage/items/ima...-9104_back.jpg


** Most of these have a steel cage covering the valves:

http://medias.audiofanzine.com/image...lack-37238.jpg



I intend drilling to half depth, holes in the cab either side. Then some
steel studding of length of the internal cab width plus one hole depth.
Some silicone sleeve over that (could be heatshrink tube) , just to
disguise the threading, then a nut on either end. When in place , wind
out the nuts , to engage with the cab, then some nail varnish as threadlock.
Any other ideas I might consider?


** I wouldn't be considering using that one, IME threaded rods that long are far too easily bent to provide any useful protection.

Much better is a piece of wood (not particle board) about 8 cm wide and 1cm thick fitted from side to side and held by a pair of screws driven into each end from the outside of the cabinet.

Painting it black is optional.

..... Phil

Phil Allison wrote:



Much better is a piece of wood (not particle board)
about 8 cm wide and 1cm thick fitted from side to side
and held by *pairs* of screws driven into each end from
the outside of the cabinet.



..... Phil

On 23/08/2015 11:32, N_Cook wrote:
As the studding will bend a bit over that length and no proper end
anchors, I'll add a brace to a subverted chassis fixing screw. 90 degree
twist to that piece of hardware shop bracing strip , one hole opened out
to pass the studding to near midway of the stud length and another pair
of nuts either side. I could then increase the length of the studding
rod a bit, so it will bow outward, and stay in position, to increase the
freeboard to the bottles.

6mm studding, cut to 545mm long. I decided to angle the anchor holes, to
also bow out the rod. 56mm between holes of the steel brace, twisted 90
deg along it and about 60 degree bend across it at the chassis end.
Quite an easy job. I'd hate to think how much of a workup it would be
drilling holes in this stainless steel chassis , let alon hank shanks
inside. No fixing holes in the cab ,either, for a part back board.

Ignore the studding, it did not look right.
1x1 inch L section blacked aluminium, ends cut down to lodge into the
cab edges, 1 CSK woodscrew each end