hiiii frnd im new in this group im need schematic diagram 10203-1 b560 laptop

On Friday, January 30, 2015 at 3:56:53 AM UTC-5, RAJESH KUMAR wrote:
hiiii frnd im new in this group im need schematic diagram 10203-1 b560 laptop

The brand might help, but really you don't usually get schematics for computers. Fact is, the way they are, all you can do is change regulators and capacitors. Then some of them (in the words of a mobo manual I read years agho) "hang permanently when the errors introduced by dirty power corrupts the BIOS past being able to flash. If it won't boot it won't flash. One of mine locked the harddirve in error, but that model harddrive was very susceptable to that problem. (WD1600BEVT, don't buy one)

You would be better off posting the problem you're having with it.

On 05/02/15 04:16, wrote:
On Friday, January 30, 2015 at 3:56:53 AM UTC-5, RAJESH KUMAR wrote:
hiiii frnd im new in this group im need schematic diagram 10203-1 b560 laptop

The brand might help, but really you don't usually get schematics for computers. Fact is, the way they are, all you can do is change regulators and capacitors. Then some of them (in the words of a mobo manual I read years agho) "hang permanently when the errors introduced by dirty power corrupts the BIOS past being able to flash. If it won't boot it won't flash. One of mine locked the harddirve in error, but that model harddrive was very susceptable to that problem. (WD1600BEVT, don't buy one)

You would be better off posting the problem you're having with it.


His machine is a Lenovo.

There are a few dodgy websites in Thailand / Malaysia / Vietnam that
host free recent laptop schematics (pinched from the factory?). Takes a
bit of googling.

Start with the word kythuatvitinh and don't do it from a Windows machine.

--
Adrian C

Heya,

TL;DR: stumbled here via: http://www.pssurvival.com/PS/Electro...pment_2004.pdf
which was posted to the mailing list of the http://therestartproject.org/
and I like what I see so far, more below . . .

On Saturday, 7 February 2015 20:23:17 UTC, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
On 05/02/15 04:16, jurb6006 wrote:
On Friday, January 30, 2015 at 3:56:53 AM UTC-5, RAJESH KUMAR wrote:
hiiii frnd im new in this group im need schematic diagram 10203-1 b560 laptop

The brand might help, but really you don't usually get schematics for computers. Fact is, the way they are, all you can do is change regulators and capacitors.

there's also reflow'ing; "we" see a few laptops (particularly with nvidia chipsets) where this might be an issue.

Then some of them (in the words of a mobo manual I read years agho) "hang permanently when the errors introduced by dirty power corrupts the BIOS past being able to flash. If it won't boot it won't flash.

then it might be worth using SPI or JTAG or similar . . .

You would be better off posting the problem you're having with it.
His machine is a Lenovo.

There are a few dodgy websites in Thailand / Malaysia / Vietnam that
host free recent laptop schematics (pinched from the factory?). Takes a
bit of googling.

Start with the word kythuatvitinh and don't do it from a Windows machine.

"Computer Technician" apparently . .
I *love* a "shady" tip . . .

walk on the wild side

--
http://tenyen.net/

On 2/8/2015 3:21 PM, wrote:

there's also reflow'ing; "we" see a few laptops (particularly with nvidia chipsets)
where this might be an issue.
Got any more precise tips in that area?
Temperatures and times and ramp rates etc.
What's a good air temperature to use?

Lots of youtube videos, but not any detail on the numbers
involved.

I built a fixture with a heat gun pointed at the bottom
and another one on top. Managed to fix two of the three I tried.
But it would be nice to have a better idea on optimum strategy.
I have thermocouples on top and bottom, but Have not figured out
how to couple the thermocouple to the chip. Any stress will cause
the chip to move when the solder melts...not good.

Heya,


On Monday, 9 February 2015 00:58:50 UTC, mike wrote:
On 2/8/2015 3:21 PM, tenye wrote:
there's also reflow'ing; "we" see a few laptops (particularly with nvidia chipsets) where this might be an issue.

Got any more precise tips in that area?

me? unfortunately not. anyone else? from my limited research
(I have one candidate dell laptop which I've probably procrastinated
over too long) its a quite unscientific process: mask off the surrounding
area as best you can and wave the heated sacrifical chicken around a bit
. . . .

Temperatures and times and ramp rates etc.
What's a good air temperature to use?
Lots of youtube videos, but not any detail on the numbers
involved.

quite! I'd like to hear of anyones experiences, especially
if the figures are backed up by e.g. spot IR thermometer readings
compared to the settings on the heat source? also anything
you did to mitigate it happening again (have you seen the comprehensive
x-box shim, heatsink and paste kits you can get?)

I built a fixture with a heat gun pointed at the bottom
and another one on top. Managed to fix two of the three I tried.
But it would be nice to have a better idea on optimum strategy.
I have thermocouples on top and bottom, but Have not figured out
how to couple the thermocouple to the chip. Any stress will cause
the chip to move when the solder melts...not good.

blimey, hadn't though of this. pics?. but I'm guessing unless your doing
a commercial repair, reflowing is a kind of last ditch effort, so just
doing an edge (and only one side) at a time (instead of relying on the chip casing and PCH distributing the heat to all "pins" at once?) and crossing fingers is what most people rely on.

apologies for the pure conjecture . . .

--
http://tenyen.net/

On Mon, 23 Feb 2015, wrote:

Heya,


On Monday, 9 February 2015 00:58:50 UTC, mike wrote:
On 2/8/2015 3:21 PM, tenye wrote:
there's also reflow'ing; "we" see a few laptops (particularly with nvidia chipsets) where this might be an issue.

Got any more precise tips in that area?

me? unfortunately not. anyone else? from my limited research
(I have one candidate dell laptop which I've probably procrastinated
over too long) its a quite unscientific process: mask off the surrounding
area as best you can and wave the heated sacrifical chicken around a bit
. . . .

Temperatures and times and ramp rates etc.
What's a good air temperature to use?
Lots of youtube videos, but not any detail on the numbers
involved.

quite! I'd like to hear of anyones experiences, especially
if the figures are backed up by e.g. spot IR thermometer readings
compared to the settings on the heat source? also anything
you did to mitigate it happening again (have you seen the comprehensive
x-box shim, heatsink and paste kits you can get?)

I built a fixture with a heat gun pointed at the bottom
and another one on top. Managed to fix two of the three I tried.
But it would be nice to have a better idea on optimum strategy.
I have thermocouples on top and bottom, but Have not figured out
how to couple the thermocouple to the chip. Any stress will cause
the chip to move when the solder melts...not good.

blimey, hadn't though of this. pics?. but I'm guessing unless your doing
a commercial repair, reflowing is a kind of last ditch effort, so just
doing an edge (and only one side) at a time (instead of relying on the chip casing and PCH distributing the heat to all "pins" at once?) and crossing fingers is what most people rely on.

I once got some SIMMs that were flakey, and looking at them, it looked
like some of the soldering wasn't working.

So I used my heat gun, no attachment to direct that flow even though it
did come with some attachments I've long forgotten, and that was good
enough to get the solder going and I never had problems with those SIMMs
again.

I think though, people use toaster ovens for such things. And I seem to
recall, they are modified a bit for such purposes. Not a hardship,
because toaster ovens are pretty common

Michael

Heya,

On Monday, 23 February 2015 19:25:11 UTC, Michael Black wrote:
I once got some SIMMs that were flakey, and looking at them, it looked
like some of the soldering wasn't working.

So I used my heat gun, no attachment to direct that flow even though it
did come with some attachments I've long forgotten, and that was good
enough to get the solder going and I never had problems with those SIMMs
again.

interesting. and probably very profitable. at the peak of scarcity (8-16mb
days?) they were worth more than their weight in gold. pitch size was probably
significantly bigger and any supporting components on board were bigger and
less likely to blow away.

I think though, people use toaster ovens for such things. And I seem to
recall, they are modified a bit for such purposes. Not a hardship,
because toaster ovens are pretty common

and even hot plates. but only on single sided boards. "My" ((North)London)
hackspace decided to pledge for a cheap far eastern generic SMD oven as apparently the price difference versus the build quality and pain of "calibrating", timing, watching and guessing with a DIY setup is worth it,
especially for a group. the purpose made ovens have preset and programmable temperature, time and ramp rates built-in. I think their size and the limit of single sided boards make then great for small production runs, but just not flexible enough for a generic repair tool?

werd,

--
http://tenyen.net/

Heya,

On Monday, 23 February 2015 19:25:11 UTC, Michael Black wrote:
I once got some SIMMs that were flakey, and looking at them, it looked
like some of the soldering wasn't working.

So I used my heat gun, no attachment to direct that flow even though it
did come with some attachments I've long forgotten, and that was good
enough to get the solder going and I never had problems with those SIMMs
again.

interesting. and probably very profitable. at the peak of scarcity (8-16mb
days?) they were worth more than their weight in gold. pitch size was probably
significantly bigger and any supporting components on board were bigger and
less likely to blow away.

I think though, people use toaster ovens for such things. And I seem to
recall, they are modified a bit for such purposes. Not a hardship,
because toaster ovens are pretty common

and even hot plates. but only on single sided boards. "My" ((North)London)
hackspace decided to pledge for a cheap far eastern generic SMD oven as apparently the price difference versus the build quality and pain of "calibrating", timing, watching and guessing with a DIY setup is worth it,
especially for a group. the purpose made ovens have preset and programmable temperature, time and ramp rates built-in. I think their size and the limit of single sided boards make then great for small production runs, but just not flexible enough for a generic repair tool?

werd,

--
http://tenyen.net/