im not sure where these are located.

Is the pin coil on that seperate little board to the right?

It didnt arc. yet.



"David" wrote in message
...
FYI you can disable a shutdown circuit as a last resort for
troubleshooting
when all standard procedures with the schematic fail but NEVER the XRAY
protect, PERIOD.

There are far too many other safe ways to troubleshoot a problem that
triggers the xray protect. i.e. lowering the B+ voltage to the flyback
circuit for one.

BTW you still need to pull the shaping coil and pincushion coil on that
set
as those are very common failure items, as are electrolytic capacitors in
the smps and the little filter one on the hv driver coil, as well as high
failure of the flyback tripler causing an effective short (for 25kv)
between
the hv anode and ground, plus the tubes have been known to arc back to the
yoke and blow a hole in the glass on these from flyback failure.

David



Mike wrote in message
...
john, now that you told me off, and told him off,

I see that YOUR NOT a technician, and you need to kiss my ass and
bug off.



"john" wrote in message
.. .
You are totally wrong William with your thinking
a real Tech would never ever disable a shutdown circuit,
maybe a non tech Guy would as per yourself.
I have been in this buis for 36 yrs and have never
even thought of disableing one to find a fault.
Do it the right way...........

kip


Not say who is or is not, but sometimes you've got to disable a
protection
or shutdown circuit to fix a problem--even if the only result is
burning
up
something.
I'm not a tech, and I haven't had to do so very often, but sometimes

it
just
takes a "plug 'er in and see what smokes" test to get to the bottom
of
something.


William

yea..... it's a real good price.... for the seller.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Mike" wrote in message
...
I just looked up some information, Im just going to replace the whole
board.

they said it would cost 158 bucks for the board, Is this a good price?





"Q.E.D." wrote in message
...
Looking for input into whether this June 1996 build TV is worth having
repaired.

TV has worked great since purchase in 1996. Never got a great deal of
use...maybe 10 hours a week on weekends to watch mainly movies on DVD
or HBO. I figure less than 4000 hours total use. Set had been on for
about 4 hours one day and the picture just went blank...like someone
turned it off. No warning of trouble before that...no picture fade or
blooming, it just went dark. Sound still works OK.

The TV is long out of warranty but due to it's light use I was
thinking it might be worth repairing. Can anyone give me an idea how
much would be a fair rate for a repairman to come out and diagnose (I
live in Philadelphia, PA)? What's an average repair cost on a 35"
set? I realize the repair costs would be on top of the initial
estimate depending on what is wrong. On that note, are my TV's
symptoms indicative of a common problem? Based on my novice research
I think it could be a high voltage problem.

The neighborhood repair guy went out of business about three years
ago. Choosing a repair service, I'm finding, is almost impossible to
decide on blindly.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

William R. Walsh:
Your comment about "plug 'er in and see what smokes" reminds me of a
"technician" that once worked in my shop...... if he was troubleshooting a
piece of equipment that was blowing fuses, instead of actually doing some
real troubleshooting and component testing, etc.... he would install a much
higher rated fuse to see what smoked. Unfortunately with that method,
there are lots of (what were good) parts that get smoked too, which runs up
the repair bill, parts and labor.... and then the customer is not happy
with the final invoice amount and won't come back..... a lost customer for
sure.
The final straw that forced me to fire this "technician" was when he was
working on a very nice, high end stereo receiver that he was
"troubleshooting" ..... after he went home, I happened to glance a look at
the unit on his bench.... he had installed 2 cut-off 1/4" bolts where two 8
amp fuses were supposed to go. After he was fired the next day, I finally
got the unit going but tons of parts along with the pcb were fried, charred,
and smoked..... I ate the extra repair expenses to keep the customer
coming back.
William....in my opinion this is NOT good service practice..... just like
disabling speaker "protection" circuitry in amplifiers and disabling
"shut-down" circuitry when troubleshooting televisions. I have had stuff
come into my shop that had previous repair attempts by so called techs using
these methods..... and they left the circuitry disabled and butchered the
unit..... this could be a safety issue and a disaster if the subsequent
shop does not catch the modifications and do the repair job correctly.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"William R. Walsh" m
wrote in message news:HBcXa.55756$Ho3.8481@sccrnsc03...
Hi!

A Technician would never ever think of disableing
the Shut Down circuit like you wish to do.
Do it the correct way ..The right way.

Not say who is or is not, but sometimes you've got to disable a protection
or shutdown circuit to fix a problem--even if the only result is burning
up
something.

I'm not a tech, and I haven't had to do so very often, but sometimes it
just
takes a "plug 'er in and see what smokes" test to get to the bottom of
something.

William

Is the price too high or something? Could I get it cheaper if I ordered it
elseware instead of my local shop?




"Sofie" wrote in message
...
yea..... it's a real good price.... for the seller.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Mike" wrote in message
...
I just looked up some information, Im just going to replace the whole
board.

they said it would cost 158 bucks for the board, Is this a good price?





"Q.E.D." wrote in message
...
Looking for input into whether this June 1996 build TV is worth having
repaired.

TV has worked great since purchase in 1996. Never got a great deal of
use...maybe 10 hours a week on weekends to watch mainly movies on DVD
or HBO. I figure less than 4000 hours total use. Set had been on for
about 4 hours one day and the picture just went blank...like someone
turned it off. No warning of trouble before that...no picture fade or
blooming, it just went dark. Sound still works OK.

The TV is long out of warranty but due to it's light use I was
thinking it might be worth repairing. Can anyone give me an idea how
much would be a fair rate for a repairman to come out and diagnose (I
live in Philadelphia, PA)? What's an average repair cost on a 35"
set? I realize the repair costs would be on top of the initial
estimate depending on what is wrong. On that note, are my TV's
symptoms indicative of a common problem? Based on my novice research
I think it could be a high voltage problem.

The neighborhood repair guy went out of business about three years
ago. Choosing a repair service, I'm finding, is almost impossible to
decide on blindly.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Mike:
Obviously buying a replacement board will SPOIL your flawless 100% record
with your method of troubleshooting. .... and I am quoting you......
........ "I have fixed every TV i ran into so far."

Replacing entire circuit boards is almost never a cost effective option for
the service shop business, particularly if the board costs $158..... but if
it is for your own personal repair and you like your television and there
are NO other problems, especially with the CRT performance and
emissions...... ?
.... you will have to make that decision.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

snipped:
"Mike" wrote in different messages

"so, thats how I troubleshoot things, and I dont have a schematic, nor feel
like ordering one for any TV I do, and it works for me every time. I have
fixed every TV i ran into so far."

I just looked up some information, Im just going to replace the whole
board.
they said it would cost 158 bucks for the board, Is this a good price?

well, I called up another shop in my area, and they said that the whole
board needs replaced. The CRT gave a damn good picture before it went.

The picture tube didnt gass out, I know that, and I even tested the
filiment, and it lights normally.



"Sofie" wrote in message
...
Mike:
Obviously buying a replacement board will SPOIL your flawless 100% record
with your method of troubleshooting. .... and I am quoting you......
....... "I have fixed every TV i ran into so far."

Replacing entire circuit boards is almost never a cost effective option
for
the service shop business, particularly if the board costs $158..... but
if
it is for your own personal repair and you like your television and there
are NO other problems, especially with the CRT performance and
emissions...... ?
... you will have to make that decision.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

snipped:
"Mike" wrote in different messages

"so, thats how I troubleshoot things, and I dont have a schematic, nor
feel
like ordering one for any TV I do, and it works for me every time. I have
fixed every TV i ran into so far."

I just looked up some information, Im just going to replace the whole
board.
they said it would cost 158 bucks for the board, Is this a good price?

the local shop I called up, said thats what they do. They told me that they
never really work down to the compnent level in zeniths, and told me i would
have to replaced the board anyway.

Quote from foley at teh shop: "Well, you can change the flyback, and I have
to warn you, you will end up replacing that whole board, Give me the zenith
part number, and I can quote you a price. blah blah blah"

so, hes fixed this type of set many times according to him.

Ill say one thing, of course he can fix it, if its a known good tube, sure
replaceing the board is going to fix the set, think about it.

anyway, FYI: i only ran into about 8 TVs, as the other tech i work with dont
work on direct view TVs. Hes the projection tech, but im not making much
money, and the repair business is not getting much business at all, so im
thinking about quitting and opening my own PC and electronics shop.

the Zenith is mine. I got it from a friend. he said a surge hit one day, and
knocked the horiz sweep out, which i dont believe him on that part, because
it was just a bad solder on the yoke return cap.

I resolder it, and the shaping coil or pin coil, or something among that
magnitude died, causing the flyback failure.

"Sofie" wrote in message
...
Mike:
Obviously buying a replacement board will SPOIL your flawless 100% record
with your method of troubleshooting. .... and I am quoting you......
....... "I have fixed every TV i ran into so far."

Replacing entire circuit boards is almost never a cost effective option
for
the service shop business, particularly if the board costs $158..... but
if
it is for your own personal repair and you like your television and there
are NO other problems, especially with the CRT performance and
emissions...... ?
... you will have to make that decision.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

snipped:
"Mike" wrote in different messages

"so, thats how I troubleshoot things, and I dont have a schematic, nor
feel
like ordering one for any TV I do, and it works for me every time. I have
fixed every TV i ran into so far."

I just looked up some information, Im just going to replace the whole
board.
they said it would cost 158 bucks for the board, Is this a good price?

One last thing, its not the entire chassis i am replacing, it would be a
waste of time for that.

its just one module, called the sweep/smps board.

and if you think about it, technically, it will "fix" the set.

it sure wont be broken. it will work. so technically, its fixed.
thank you very much.



"Q.E.D." wrote in message
...
Looking for input into whether this June 1996 build TV is worth having
repaired.

TV has worked great since purchase in 1996. Never got a great deal of
use...maybe 10 hours a week on weekends to watch mainly movies on DVD
or HBO. I figure less than 4000 hours total use. Set had been on for
about 4 hours one day and the picture just went blank...like someone
turned it off. No warning of trouble before that...no picture fade or
blooming, it just went dark. Sound still works OK.

The TV is long out of warranty but due to it's light use I was
thinking it might be worth repairing. Can anyone give me an idea how
much would be a fair rate for a repairman to come out and diagnose (I
live in Philadelphia, PA)? What's an average repair cost on a 35"
set? I realize the repair costs would be on top of the initial
estimate depending on what is wrong. On that note, are my TV's
symptoms indicative of a common problem? Based on my novice research
I think it could be a high voltage problem.

The neighborhood repair guy went out of business about three years
ago. Choosing a repair service, I'm finding, is almost impossible to
decide on blindly.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Gee ! You crack me up..Really
kip

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"Mike" wrote in message
...
One last thing, its not the entire chassis i am replacing, it would be a
waste of time for that.

its just one module, called the sweep/smps board.

and if you think about it, technically, it will "fix" the set.

it sure wont be broken. it will work. so technically, its fixed.
thank you very much.



"Q.E.D." wrote in message
...
Looking for input into whether this June 1996 build TV is worth having
repaired.

TV has worked great since purchase in 1996. Never got a great deal of
use...maybe 10 hours a week on weekends to watch mainly movies on DVD
or HBO. I figure less than 4000 hours total use. Set had been on for
about 4 hours one day and the picture just went blank...like someone
turned it off. No warning of trouble before that...no picture fade or
blooming, it just went dark. Sound still works OK.

The TV is long out of warranty but due to it's light use I was
thinking it might be worth repairing. Can anyone give me an idea how
much would be a fair rate for a repairman to come out and diagnose (I
live in Philadelphia, PA)? What's an average repair cost on a 35"
set? I realize the repair costs would be on top of the initial
estimate depending on what is wrong. On that note, are my TV's
symptoms indicative of a common problem? Based on my novice research
I think it could be a high voltage problem.

The neighborhood repair guy went out of business about three years
ago. Choosing a repair service, I'm finding, is almost impossible to
decide on blindly.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

i know.


"john" wrote in message
.. .
Gee ! You crack me up..Really
kip

--
"Watch the return E-Mail addy its false"
"Mike" wrote in message
...
One last thing, its not the entire chassis i am replacing, it would be a
waste of time for that.

its just one module, called the sweep/smps board.

and if you think about it, technically, it will "fix" the set.

it sure wont be broken. it will work. so technically, its fixed.
thank you very much.



"Q.E.D." wrote in message
...
Looking for input into whether this June 1996 build TV is worth having
repaired.

TV has worked great since purchase in 1996. Never got a great deal of
use...maybe 10 hours a week on weekends to watch mainly movies on DVD
or HBO. I figure less than 4000 hours total use. Set had been on for
about 4 hours one day and the picture just went blank...like someone
turned it off. No warning of trouble before that...no picture fade or
blooming, it just went dark. Sound still works OK.

The TV is long out of warranty but due to it's light use I was
thinking it might be worth repairing. Can anyone give me an idea how
much would be a fair rate for a repairman to come out and diagnose (I
live in Philadelphia, PA)? What's an average repair cost on a 35"
set? I realize the repair costs would be on top of the initial
estimate depending on what is wrong. On that note, are my TV's
symptoms indicative of a common problem? Based on my novice research
I think it could be a high voltage problem.

The neighborhood repair guy went out of business about three years
ago. Choosing a repair service, I'm finding, is almost impossible to
decide on blindly.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 23:38:18 GMT, "Mike" wrote:

the local shop I called up, said thats what they do. They told me that they
never really work down to the compnent level in zeniths, and told me i would
have to replaced the board anyway.

Quote from foley at teh shop: "Well, you can change the flyback, and I have
to warn you, you will end up replacing that whole board, Give me the zenith
part number, and I can quote you a price. blah blah blah"

This is Zenith's warranty policy, and it flies in the face of common
sense. They repair to component level for the smaller sets, forcing a
shop to do a lot of work for little or nothing, while replacing for
the larger sets, forcing the shops to work for...little or nothing,
and have a lot of money tied up for months besides, from purchasing
entire assemblies, including CRT's. I have seen Zenith's policies, and
if you are not intimately familiar...you won't understand anyway.

Mike...time to wake up.

Tom

and smell the coffee? lol. I dont drink it.




"Tom MacIntyre" wrote in message
news
On Mon, 04 Aug 2003 23:38:18 GMT, "Mike" wrote:

the local shop I called up, said thats what they do. They told me that
they
never really work down to the compnent level in zeniths, and told me i
would
have to replaced the board anyway.

Quote from foley at teh shop: "Well, you can change the flyback, and I
have
to warn you, you will end up replacing that whole board, Give me the
zenith
part number, and I can quote you a price. blah blah blah"

This is Zenith's warranty policy, and it flies in the face of common
sense. They repair to component level for the smaller sets, forcing a
shop to do a lot of work for little or nothing, while replacing for
the larger sets, forcing the shops to work for...little or nothing,
and have a lot of money tied up for months besides, from purchasing
entire assemblies, including CRT's. I have seen Zenith's policies, and
if you are not intimately familiar...you won't understand anyway.

Mike...time to wake up.

Tom

In article , Mike
writes
I just looked up some information, Im just going to replace the whole board.

Are you sure you're competent?

Could you learn to snip your quotes when posting? And stop top-posting?

--
A. Top posters.
Q. What's the most annoying thing on Usenet?

In article , Mike
writes

im
thinking about quitting and opening my own PC and electronics shop.

God help your customers. With the level of clue you have demonstrated
to date, you'll go out of business very quickly.

--
A. Top posters.
Q. What's the most annoying thing on Usenet?

On Mon, 4 Aug 2003 14:21:36 -0700, "Sofie" wrote:

Mike:
Obviously buying a replacement board will SPOIL your flawless 100% record
with your method of troubleshooting. .... and I am quoting you......
....... "I have fixed every TV i ran into so far."

Replacing entire circuit boards is almost never a cost effective option for
the service shop business, particularly if the board costs $158..... but if
it is for your own personal repair and you like your television and there
are NO other problems, especially with the CRT performance and
emissions...... ?
... you will have to make that decision.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie

True, I have to replace a whole board on occasion and luckily the
owner footed the cost, set was hacked by idiot "tech" or was covered
under warrenty.

Related to this topic:
I once quoted for my tv project an whole AV-20D303 chassis. GLUPS,
400! This is an power efficient chassis that should consume less than
80W on 20" this chassis is also used in AV-27D303 which only consumes
105W using RCA 27" CRT. The RCA CTC203 based 27" is about 130W or so.

Most of power losses comes from linear regulators (any) or older
SMPSes. Looks like I would have to design in an switching SMPS in
place of STR30134 regulator on an AV-20200.

Cheers,

Wizard