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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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Help-Tube swapping/crt reference (sencore) differences--explain?
I'm about to do some more swapping of tubes in some basic 1980's arcade
monitors. I have read up about all the success people have with tube swapping, and have even done them myself (but with an identical part number tube) However, I have some questions regarding some differences I see on reference material (e.g. from Sencore's website) on the tubes I'm planning to swap, as I have lots from donor TV's ready and waiting to replace old burned in ones! First,, yes, I have checked the yoke resistance and deflection angle (19V90's) and pinouts and socket type and mounting ears/etc.. So I know everything matches... up to that point. However I have questions on what these things mean literally (and practically) from Sencore's reference materials. Original tube lists "CRT Bias" as 132V, 68V or D for their 3 systems. Why the differences? Isn't a voltage a voltage and the same? What are these three "CR7000/CR70/CR31" system differences they refer to? Also, the original tube lists KVoltage of 125, Anode of 30 and Focus of 5000/6000 Just one of the replacement tubes I want to use lists: CRT Bias of: 116V, 68V, D KVolt: 100, Anode:25, Focus 7000 Everything else (pinouts,...) are identical. My questions a 1) Do I need to worry about these differences or can this ALL be compensated for by adjusting (increasing or decreasing) the SCREEN, FOCUS and/or cutoffs/drive/bias/brightness controls, or is there some significant problem or safety issue about the differences in ratings? What about ratings not listed (sometimes Focus, Anode or KVolt isn't listed)? 2) If this is an issue, what HAS to be the same and what can vary? Lots of people have reported using different tubes from salvaged TV's with success, and I can't believe they are all matching all these parameters 100%. Also there is a web site selling new chassis that only needs to know the # of pins and the yoke resistance from your donor tube to sell you a new chassis, so to me, that means, all the rest does NOT matter, even in an old (1982) chassis? I guess this is mainly a question in reading and understanding the ratings in the reference material from an expert who knows. Thanks in advance! |
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