DIYbanter - Roland Cube 30

DIYbanter (https://www.diybanter.com/)

- Electronics Repair (https://www.diybanter.com/electronics-repair/)

- - Roland Cube 30 (https://www.diybanter.com/electronics-repair/367561-roland-cube-30-a.html)

No function including no LEDs.
Failed 3.3V VR, ominously tested no load as 4V, maybe normal , will
have to try some known gooders
About 1.5 ohm ground to 3.3V rail. Found where the confusing inner 3.3V
plane came off (near IC9) cutting either side of there and a couple of
other places, limited to one area of board.
Powering with V and A limited bench ps set for 3V limit, taking .2A,
dropped .4V and .3A dropped .7V.
With IR thermometer I would have thought 0.2W would shine out , about 1
degree C only above, around IC4 and AKM 4552VT codec, Japanese datasheet
out there. From that I think I know where to cut its supply trace,
despite being under the IC.
Anyone been here before ?, the main Roland chips are dead cold.
Anyone know what 5 pin SC70-5 or SOT416 format IC top coded JAPN is,
just in passing, googling got nowhere ?
Reminder to myself when using IR thermometer - use a distant LED torch
to illuminate the board. Misled into "finding" a faulty main cap , as
heating up a few degrees in one area of the cap, despite no normal
connection to any 3V line. My flourescent lamp was reflecting heat off
the cap top. Even turning off the lamp made no difference , retained
heat of course.
Also handled a switch and 3 seconds later found a (phantom) hot spot
there.
No change in ohmage heating or freezing.
I don't fancy removing a 16p IC, where it is, even if a replacement was
available, but now I've got this far I have to follow it through to the end

On 08/02/2014 13:48, N_Cook wrote:
No function including no LEDs.
Failed 3.3V VR, ominously tested no load as 4V, maybe normal , will
have to try some known gooders
About 1.5 ohm ground to 3.3V rail. Found where the confusing inner 3.3V
plane came off (near IC9) cutting either side of there and a couple of
other places, limited to one area of board.
Powering with V and A limited bench ps set for 3V limit, taking .2A,
dropped .4V and .3A dropped .7V.
With IR thermometer I would have thought 0.2W would shine out , about 1
degree C only above, around IC4 and AKM 4552VT codec, Japanese datasheet
out there. From that I think I know where to cut its supply trace,
despite being under the IC.
Anyone been here before ?, the main Roland chips are dead cold.
Anyone know what 5 pin SC70-5 or SOT416 format IC top coded JAPN is,
just in passing, googling got nowhere ?
Reminder to myself when using IR thermometer - use a distant LED torch
to illuminate the board. Misled into "finding" a faulty main cap , as
heating up a few degrees in one area of the cap, despite no normal
connection to any 3V line. My flourescent lamp was reflecting heat off
the cap top. Even turning off the lamp made no difference , retained
heat of course.
Also handled a switch and 3 seconds later found a (phantom) hot spot
there.
No change in ohmage heating or freezing.
I don't fancy removing a 16p IC, where it is, even if a replacement was
available, but now I've got this far I have to follow it through to the end

The J of 4 letter code JAPN has 2 dots over .
My IR thermo has a conical reflector to the pyro, just the right size to
test each of the couple of dozen radial electros, by placing end of cap
in the cone, and no excess over ambient

On 08/02/2014 13:55, N_Cook wrote:
On 08/02/2014 13:48, N_Cook wrote:
No function including no LEDs.
Failed 3.3V VR, ominously tested no load as 4V, maybe normal , will
have to try some known gooders
About 1.5 ohm ground to 3.3V rail. Found where the confusing inner 3.3V
plane came off (near IC9) cutting either side of there and a couple of
other places, limited to one area of board.
Powering with V and A limited bench ps set for 3V limit, taking .2A,
dropped .4V and .3A dropped .7V.
With IR thermometer I would have thought 0.2W would shine out , about 1
degree C only above, around IC4 and AKM 4552VT codec, Japanese datasheet
out there. From that I think I know where to cut its supply trace,
despite being under the IC.
Anyone been here before ?, the main Roland chips are dead cold.
Anyone know what 5 pin SC70-5 or SOT416 format IC top coded JAPN is,
just in passing, googling got nowhere ?
Reminder to myself when using IR thermometer - use a distant LED torch
to illuminate the board. Misled into "finding" a faulty main cap , as
heating up a few degrees in one area of the cap, despite no normal
connection to any 3V line. My flourescent lamp was reflecting heat off
the cap top. Even turning off the lamp made no difference , retained
heat of course.
Also handled a switch and 3 seconds later found a (phantom) hot spot
there.
No change in ohmage heating or freezing.
I don't fancy removing a 16p IC, where it is, even if a replacement was
available, but now I've got this far I have to follow it through to
the end

The J of 4 letter code JAPN has 2 dots over .
My IR thermo has a conical reflector to the pyro, just the right size to
test each of the couple of dozen radial electros, by placing end of cap
in the cone, and no excess over ambient

Isolated that IC and still low ohms load on 3.3V line. About all that
was left to cut was area of the big BOSS chippery.
Cut line to p38 of 80 pin R02565501 and inside that was the low ohms, so
end of the road I think. Perhaps a thin trace 3.3V or ground line runs
under the AKM 16 pinner.
Perhaps I'll solder a wire to p38 and drive again with some less
constrained current and see what happens with IR monitoring, for
edification. First Cube Roland main chip failure like this I've come
across, 2 stomp boxes before IIRC

Applying bench ps to pin 38 isolated from all else, then for .2A, 1.3V
dropped and 10 deg C rise of the chip.

before consigning to the mule park , investigated the JAPN IC a bit
5 pin,
p1&2 gnd, 3 N/C unless hidden in an interlayer,4 to large Boss R03015201
p21, p5 absent, p6 3.3V
Power-on reset IC?

"N_Cook" wrote in message ...

before consigning to the mule park , investigated the JAPN IC a bit
5 pin,
p1&2 gnd, 3 N/C unless hidden in an interlayer,4 to large Boss R03015201
p21, p5 absent, p6 3.3V
Power-on reset IC?

The schematic designates the output of this chip to be Reset0, and becomes
Reset1 after R19.

Reset0 goes to logic chip IC1, Reset1 goes to CN U2 pin6, CN U2 being
designated Not Utilised.

I can't see any direct connections of these reset lines to the main CPU.

Gareth.

"Gareth Magennis" wrote in message ...

"N_Cook" wrote in message ...

before consigning to the mule park , investigated the JAPN IC a bit
5 pin,
p1&2 gnd, 3 N/C unless hidden in an interlayer,4 to large Boss R03015201
p21, p5 absent, p6 3.3V
Power-on reset IC?

The schematic designates the output of this chip to be Reset0, and becomes
Reset1 after R19.

Reset0 goes to logic chip IC1, Reset1 goes to CN U2 pin6, CN U2 being
designated Not Utilised.

I can't see any direct connections of these reset lines to the main CPU.

Oops, that's ********. Reset0 goes to pin 81 on the main CPU. My eyesight
is getting worse.

But Reset0 does indeed also go to some logic at IC1, thence into IC2.

Gareth.

On 10/02/2014 16:38, Gareth Magennis wrote:
"N_Cook" wrote in message
...
before consigning to the mule park , investigated the JAPN IC a bit
5 pin,
p1&2 gnd, 3 N/C unless hidden in an interlayer,4 to large Boss R03015201
p21, p5 absent, p6 3.3V
Power-on reset IC?

That IC is S80130ANMC. Voltage supervisor with built in delay.

Gareth.

I've never seen such long timed power-up reset/delay IC before.
I suppose one dot is the index mark and the other dot Seiko logo.
Another SMD topcode out there now.

"Gareth Magennis"

That IC is S80130ANMC. Voltage supervisor with built in delay.

** I needed one of those a few years ago for a Cube 30 Bass.

Roland Australia could not supply, saying it was obsolete.

So, I picked a similar part ( 3 pin SMD reset IC ) from the Farnell Cat and
used that.

The pin out was different, so I had to mount it up side down.

..... Phil