How hard would it be to retrofit a SUPCO icemaker to a Panasonic refrigerator like NR-B391, for example.

I added an icemaker to my Whirlpool refrigerator (it was an easy retrofit, everything was pre-setup to add one).

I want to change my refrigerator to a Panasonic inverter model in order to lower my energy bills, but I seems like no Panasonic inverter model has an automatic icemaker. Checking it out, it looks like they do not have the "pre-setup" to add any.

I think I could jerry jig a water valve outside and pass a water line to the inside into the icemaker assuming there is enough space in the freezer to place an icemaker. Nevertheless I wonder if there is anything else I am missing about doing this kind of retrofit.

Thanks

JP

pepebuho wrote:
How hard would it be to retrofit a SUPCO icemaker to a Panasonic
refrigerator like NR-B391, for example.

The main thing is that you need to make at least one hole, and probably
two (water + wires), through the wall of the freezer compartment. As
long as you know exactly where the refrigerant lines and cabinet heaters
(if equipped) are, you can pick a good place for the hole. If you
don't, then it's kind of like finding a stud in a wall - drill a tiny
hole (1/16" or so) through one surface only, poke around with a stiff
piece of wire to make sure nothing is in the way, and if clear, drill
the hole bigger. If this model refrigerator had a factory option for
the icemaker, there may be some holes already there, possibly filled
with a foam plug and taped over.

You may also need to make some small holes in the freezer liner for
mounting screws, or fabricate some kind of stand or shelf to put the
icemaker on. Again, if there was a factory option, these may already
be there.

If you drilled the holes yourself, you'll probably want to seal the
holes you made with food grade silicone sealant. Try not to have any
wire splices inside the freezer; if you do, they get sealed up with
silicone as well.

If the existing circuits use 1/4" push-on terminals, see if you can use
insulated splitters (one female+two male, or vice versa), or insulated
female terminals that also have a male tab on them. Otherwise, cut the
existing wires and put insulated push-ons on them, or solder and tape.
I wouldn't trust wire nuts or those "guillotine" tap-in terminals (with
the blade with slots that pushes over the wire) for this. Make sure
you are tapping into the 120 V line from the wall, and not something
that is switched by the thermostat or controlled by a circuit board.

You will of course void the warranty on the fridge.

Matt Roberds