Trying to fix a 32" RCA TV DVD Combo. model # RLCDV3282A-B.

When I plug in the TV does not turn ON. However a dim power light (RED led) comes On.

No clicking sound. No buzzing. Nothing. Plain and simply dead except for the dim POWER light.

I am unable to locate specifically the bad component.

Checked most capacitors. No visible signs of damage or bulge.

Across the main 450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC. Mains has steady 110V AC.

Output connectors of the main power supply board gives 24, 12 and 5 v DC. No problems.

However, the DVD board is not getting its 5 volt DC which actually comes from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput connectors like HDMI etc.

I am unable to trace where/why the 5 volts from this board is NOT coming to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.

So in short, the main-graphic board that also powers the dvd is not giving 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switches are non responsive.

Any help will be appreciated.

On Tue, 22 Oct 2013 13:08:19 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Trying to fix a 32" RCA TV DVD Combo. model # RLCDV3282A-B.

When I plug in the TV does not turn ON. However a dim power light (RED led) comes On.

No clicking sound. No buzzing. Nothing. Plain and simply dead except for the dim POWER light.

I am unable to locate specifically the bad component.

Checked most capacitors. No visible signs of damage or bulge.

Across the main 450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC. Mains has steady 110V AC.

Output connectors of the main power supply board gives 24, 12 and 5 v DC. No problems.

However, the DVD board is not getting its 5 volt DC which actually comes from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput connectors like HDMI etc.

I am unable to trace where/why the 5 volts from this board is NOT coming to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.

So in short, the main-graphic board that also powers the dvd is not giving 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switches are non responsive.

Any help will be appreciated.


Very likely that the electrolytic you mentioned is open. Chuck

On Wed, 23 Oct 2013, chuck wrote:

On Tue, 22 Oct 2013 13:08:19 -0700 (PDT),
wrote:

Trying to fix a 32" RCA TV DVD Combo. model # RLCDV3282A-B.

When I plug in the TV does not turn ON. However a dim power light (RED led) comes On.

No clicking sound. No buzzing. Nothing. Plain and simply dead except for the dim POWER light.

I am unable to locate specifically the bad component.

Checked most capacitors. No visible signs of damage or bulge.

Across the main 450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC. Mains has steady 110V AC.

Output connectors of the main power supply board gives 24, 12 and 5 v DC. No problems.

However, the DVD board is not getting its 5 volt DC which actually comes from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput connectors like HDMI etc.

I am unable to trace where/why the 5 volts from this board is NOT coming to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.

So in short, the main-graphic board that also powers the dvd is not giving 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switches are non responsive.

Any help will be appreciated.


Very likely that the electrolytic you mentioned is open. Chuck

Yes, just because there's no visible leaking from the electrolytics
doens't mean they are good.

I got a 22" Acer LCD monitor going by replacing the bigger electrolytics.
None were bulging, none were leaking, but the monitor sort of worked, but
looked like it was resetting from time to time (suddenly the Acer logo
would appear on screen as if I'd turned it on again). So I just looked at
the larger value electrolytics on the power supply board, not more than
six, and just replaced them, and it works fine. If I'd had an ESR meter,
I could have narrowed it down. If replacing these hadn't fixed the
problem, I would have pursued it differently.

Michael

RLCDV3282A-B, Duke Electronics Can Fix Your TV, Check Www.DukeElectronic.com

Free Estimate.
Professional Repair
Fast TurnAround Time

Hey ,can I buy a new circuit board for a rldv3282a

On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 at 4:08:19 PM UTC-4, SharpShooter wrote:
Trying to fix a 32" RCA TV DVD Combo. model # RLCDV3282A-B.

When I plug in the TV does not turn ON. However a dim power light (RED led) comes On.

No clicking sound. No buzzing. Nothing. Plain and simply dead except for the dim POWER light.

I am unable to locate specifically the bad component.

Checked most capacitors. No visible signs of damage or bulge.

Across the main 450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC. Mains has steady 110V AC.

Output connectors of the main power supply board gives 24, 12 and 5 v DC. No problems.

However, the DVD board is not getting its 5 volt DC which actually comes from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput connectors like HDMI etc.

I am unable to trace where/why the 5 volts from this board is NOT coming to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.

So in short, the main-graphic board that also powers the dvd is not giving 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switches are non responsive.

Any help will be appreciated.

It seems unlikely that you're getting only 90VDC across the PFC capacitor. If that's what you're getting, replace that cap. Ordinarily, you should be getting about 160VDC across that with a 120VAC in standby, and 325 to 375 with the TV on.

It also seems unlikely that you'd be getting normal secondary voltages if there was only 90V on the PFC cap, but anything is possible I guess.

The 5V for the DVD is a switched source and is not a pertinent test point for checking a dead TV. Most likely it's not sourced from the 5V standby but the 12V run through an on board dc-dc converter.

The first course of action is to verify the voltage on the PFC cap as it should never be anything less than 160. If it is, solve that first.

If it still doesn't start, check the main IC for runaway heat on plug in. These boards often get whacked through the HDMI ports and the main IC will short and get hot in a hurry. If that's what you're getting, it's easier to replace the board.

If not, good chance the firmware is corrupt. Unfortunately, RCA (whoever it is now) will not send you the .bin file. Might be an eeprom available on ebay.

On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 3:03:05 PM UTC-5, John-Del wrote:
On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 at 4:08:19 PM UTC-4, SharpShooter wrote:
Trying to fix a 32" RCA TV DVD Combo. model # RLCDV3282A-B.

When I plug in the TV does not turn ON. However a dim power light (RED led) comes On.

No clicking sound. No buzzing. Nothing. Plain and simply dead except for the dim POWER light.

I am unable to locate specifically the bad component.

Checked most capacitors. No visible signs of damage or bulge.

Across the main 450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC. Mains has steady 110V AC.

Output connectors of the main power supply board gives 24, 12 and 5 v DC. No problems.

However, the DVD board is not getting its 5 volt DC which actually comes from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput connectors like HDMI etc.

I am unable to trace where/why the 5 volts from this board is NOT coming to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.

So in short, the main-graphic board that also powers the dvd is not giving 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switches are non responsive.

Any help will be appreciated.

It seems unlikely that you're getting only 90VDC across the PFC capacitor.. If that's what you're getting, replace that cap. Ordinarily, you should be getting about 160VDC across that with a 120VAC in standby, and 325 to 375 with the TV on.

It also seems unlikely that you'd be getting normal secondary voltages if there was only 90V on the PFC cap, but anything is possible I guess.

The 5V for the DVD is a switched source and is not a pertinent test point for checking a dead TV. Most likely it's not sourced from the 5V standby but the 12V run through an on board dc-dc converter.

The first course of action is to verify the voltage on the PFC cap as it should never be anything less than 160. If it is, solve that first.

If it still doesn't start, check the main IC for runaway heat on plug in. These boards often get whacked through the HDMI ports and the main IC will short and get hot in a hurry. If that's what you're getting, it's easier to replace the board.

If not, good chance the firmware is corrupt. Unfortunately, RCA (whoever it is now) will not send you the .bin file. Might be an eeprom available on ebay.

I second that.

450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC.

That sounds fishy. I would snoop around that area looking for flat caps , burned resisters or open fuse.

I have 5 cents that says its a flat cap.

Also check for cold solder around the switching transformers. They are heavy and can wiggle lose if the TV is next to a home theater sub bass speaker , vibration.

On Sat, 16 Jan 2016, John Heath wrote:

On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 3:03:05 PM UTC-5, John-Del wrote:
On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 at 4:08:19 PM UTC-4, SharpShooter wrote:
Trying to fix a 32" RCA TV DVD Combo. model # RLCDV3282A-B.

When I plug in the TV does not turn ON. However a dim power light (RED led) comes On.

No clicking sound. No buzzing. Nothing. Plain and simply dead except for the dim POWER light.

I am unable to locate specifically the bad component.

Checked most capacitors. No visible signs of damage or bulge.

Across the main 450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC. Mains has steady 110V AC.

Output connectors of the main power supply board gives 24, 12 and 5 v DC. No problems.

However, the DVD board is not getting its 5 volt DC which actually comes from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput connectors like HDMI etc.

I am unable to trace where/why the 5 volts from this board is NOT coming to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.

So in short, the main-graphic board that also powers the dvd is not giving 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switches are non responsive.

Any help will be appreciated.

It seems unlikely that you're getting only 90VDC across the PFC capacitor. If that's what you're getting, replace that cap. Ordinarily, you should be getting about 160VDC across that with a 120VAC in standby, and 325 to 375 with the TV on.

It also seems unlikely that you'd be getting normal secondary voltages if there was only 90V on the PFC cap, but anything is possible I guess.

The 5V for the DVD is a switched source and is not a pertinent test point for checking a dead TV. Most likely it's not sourced from the 5V standby but the 12V run through an on board dc-dc converter.

The first course of action is to verify the voltage on the PFC cap as it should never be anything less than 160. If it is, solve that first.

If it still doesn't start, check the main IC for runaway heat on plug in. These boards often get whacked through the HDMI ports and the main IC will short and get hot in a hurry. If that's what you're getting, it's easier to replace the board.

If not, good chance the firmware is corrupt. Unfortunately, RCA (whoever it is now) will not send you the .bin file. Might be an eeprom available on ebay.

I second that.

450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC.

That sounds fishy. I would snoop around that area looking for flat caps , burned resisters or open fuse.

I have 5 cents that says its a flat cap.

Also check for cold solder around the switching transformers. They are heavy and can wiggle lose if the TV is next to a home theater sub bass speaker , vibration.

This thread is from October 2013

Some boob ressurected it in mid-2015 to advertise their repair shop.

ANd now some other boob replies to the thread, no quoting of the original
message so who knows where in the thread they are replying to, asking if
they can get a new board for the tv.

The thread thus resurrected, the two of you proceed to reply as if the
original post and problem was posted today, when it's over 2 years old.
The poster, and hopefully the problem, are long gone.

DOn't reply to old posts just because google lets you, don't reply to old
posts.

Michael

On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 5:53:02 PM UTC-5, Michael Black wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016, John Heath wrote:

On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 3:03:05 PM UTC-5, John-Del wrote:
On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 at 4:08:19 PM UTC-4, SharpShooter wrote:
Trying to fix a 32" RCA TV DVD Combo. model # RLCDV3282A-B.

When I plug in the TV does not turn ON. However a dim power light (RED led) comes On.

No clicking sound. No buzzing. Nothing. Plain and simply dead except for the dim POWER light.

I am unable to locate specifically the bad component.

Checked most capacitors. No visible signs of damage or bulge.

Across the main 450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC. Mains has steady 110V AC.

Output connectors of the main power supply board gives 24, 12 and 5 v DC. No problems.

However, the DVD board is not getting its 5 volt DC which actually comes from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput connectors like HDMI etc.

I am unable to trace where/why the 5 volts from this board is NOT coming to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.

So in short, the main-graphic board that also powers the dvd is not giving 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switches are non responsive.

Any help will be appreciated.

It seems unlikely that you're getting only 90VDC across the PFC capacitor. If that's what you're getting, replace that cap. Ordinarily, you should be getting about 160VDC across that with a 120VAC in standby, and 325 to 375 with the TV on.

It also seems unlikely that you'd be getting normal secondary voltages if there was only 90V on the PFC cap, but anything is possible I guess.

The 5V for the DVD is a switched source and is not a pertinent test point for checking a dead TV. Most likely it's not sourced from the 5V standby but the 12V run through an on board dc-dc converter.

The first course of action is to verify the voltage on the PFC cap as it should never be anything less than 160. If it is, solve that first.

If it still doesn't start, check the main IC for runaway heat on plug in. These boards often get whacked through the HDMI ports and the main IC will short and get hot in a hurry. If that's what you're getting, it's easier to replace the board.

If not, good chance the firmware is corrupt. Unfortunately, RCA (whoever it is now) will not send you the .bin file. Might be an eeprom available on ebay.

I second that.

450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC.

That sounds fishy. I would snoop around that area looking for flat caps , burned resisters or open fuse.

I have 5 cents that says its a flat cap.

Also check for cold solder around the switching transformers. They are heavy and can wiggle lose if the TV is next to a home theater sub bass speaker , vibration.

This thread is from October 2013

Some boob ressurected it in mid-2015 to advertise their repair shop.

ANd now some other boob replies to the thread, no quoting of the original
message so who knows where in the thread they are replying to, asking if
they can get a new board for the tv.

The thread thus resurrected, the two of you proceed to reply as if the
original post and problem was posted today, when it's over 2 years old.
The poster, and hopefully the problem, are long gone.

DOn't reply to old posts just because google lets you, don't reply to old
posts.

Michael

We certainly wouldn't have if we had noticed the "boob" was bumping an old thread. Okay, so we responded to a new post that was in a thread bumped by another poster. So we are guilty for not tracing back farther to check earlier posts for dates posted. Hardly worthy of scorn.

This happens a lot. Someone asks the original poster if they are still selling that amplifier they listed 14 years ago, and others respond afterwards.. It happens. The first is indeed a boob, the rest can be called inattentive if you feel the need to call them out.

Besides, many solutions to problems can be resolved by looking at past posts. Anyone with a similar problem may find value in the added info. In this case, voltage across the PFC capacitor is a universal situation that affects many modern consumer electronic items.

And it's not like this group is a huge beehive of activity anymore like it was 15 years ago.

On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 5:53:02 PM UTC-5, Michael Black wrote:
On Sat, 16 Jan 2016, John Heath wrote:

On Saturday, January 16, 2016 at 3:03:05 PM UTC-5, John-Del wrote:
On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 at 4:08:19 PM UTC-4, SharpShooter wrote:
Trying to fix a 32" RCA TV DVD Combo. model # RLCDV3282A-B.

When I plug in the TV does not turn ON. However a dim power light (RED led) comes On.

No clicking sound. No buzzing. Nothing. Plain and simply dead except for the dim POWER light.

I am unable to locate specifically the bad component.

Checked most capacitors. No visible signs of damage or bulge.

Across the main 450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC. Mains has steady 110V AC.

Output connectors of the main power supply board gives 24, 12 and 5 v DC. No problems.

However, the DVD board is not getting its 5 volt DC which actually comes from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput connectors like HDMI etc.

I am unable to trace where/why the 5 volts from this board is NOT coming to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.

So in short, the main-graphic board that also powers the dvd is not giving 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switches are non responsive.

Any help will be appreciated.

It seems unlikely that you're getting only 90VDC across the PFC capacitor. If that's what you're getting, replace that cap. Ordinarily, you should be getting about 160VDC across that with a 120VAC in standby, and 325 to 375 with the TV on.

It also seems unlikely that you'd be getting normal secondary voltages if there was only 90V on the PFC cap, but anything is possible I guess.

The 5V for the DVD is a switched source and is not a pertinent test point for checking a dead TV. Most likely it's not sourced from the 5V standby but the 12V run through an on board dc-dc converter.

The first course of action is to verify the voltage on the PFC cap as it should never be anything less than 160. If it is, solve that first.

If it still doesn't start, check the main IC for runaway heat on plug in. These boards often get whacked through the HDMI ports and the main IC will short and get hot in a hurry. If that's what you're getting, it's easier to replace the board.

If not, good chance the firmware is corrupt. Unfortunately, RCA (whoever it is now) will not send you the .bin file. Might be an eeprom available on ebay.

I second that.

450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC.

That sounds fishy. I would snoop around that area looking for flat caps , burned resisters or open fuse.

I have 5 cents that says its a flat cap.

Also check for cold solder around the switching transformers. They are heavy and can wiggle lose if the TV is next to a home theater sub bass speaker , vibration.

This thread is from October 2013

Some boob ressurected it in mid-2015 to advertise their repair shop.

ANd now some other boob replies to the thread, no quoting of the original
message so who knows where in the thread they are replying to, asking if
they can get a new board for the tv.

The thread thus resurrected, the two of you proceed to reply as if the
original post and problem was posted today, when it's over 2 years old.
The poster, and hopefully the problem, are long gone.

DOn't reply to old posts just because google lets you, don't reply to old
posts.

Michael

Your baby finger is staying on the shift key too long leading to double capital letters such as ANd and DOn't. I'm not complaining here , just saying.

"John Heath" wrote in message
...

DOn't reply to old posts just because google lets you, don't reply to old
posts.

Michael

Your baby finger is staying on the shift key too long leading to double
capital letters such as ANd and DOn't. I'm not complaining here , just
saying.

I often have the same problem.

On 2016-01-19, John Heath wrote:
DOn't reply to old posts just because google lets you, don't reply to old
posts.

Michael

Your baby finger is staying on the shift key too long leading to
double capital letters such as ANd and DOn't. I'm not complaining here
, just saying.

This is a problem with some keyboards that don't require the key to
travel all the way down before making contact. This causes a release
issue for Shift.

I've tested this problem with a bunch of keyboards.

The one I'm using now has the problem.

Test case "Ru" typed using left-pinky-Shift-left-index-R; right index U:

RuRURURURURURURURURURURURURURURURURuRuRURURURURURU RURURURURURURURURURURURU.

Mostly comes out wrong.

I'm pretty sure I'm releasing the Shift before the u; it's just not
actually releasing the moment the key cap rises from the bottom.

This could be compensated in the operating system's driver. Or in an
aplpication that works with raw scan codes.

That is to say, a minimum "hold time" can be required in order for a
Shift to affect a keystroke. Timing diagram:

__x___
R ____/ \__________
__x___
U: ________/ \____
____x___
Shift: _/ \___________
| |
-| |-- t_hold


The x marks when you're actually releasing it; the flat part after that
is the delay to the actual release.

Suppose t_hold between Shift and U is less than the configured minimum,
then the shift is not considered to be in effect for U.

On Monday, January 18, 2016 at 8:09:30 PM UTC-5, Kaz Kylheku wrote:
On 2016-01-19, John Heath wrote:
DOn't reply to old posts just because google lets you, don't reply to old
posts.

Michael

Your baby finger is staying on the shift key too long leading to
double capital letters such as ANd and DOn't. I'm not complaining here
, just saying.

This is a problem with some keyboards that don't require the key to
travel all the way down before making contact. This causes a release
issue for Shift.

I've tested this problem with a bunch of keyboards.

The one I'm using now has the problem.

Test case "Ru" typed using left-pinky-Shift-left-index-R; right index U:

RuRURURURURURURURURURURURURURURURURuRuRURURURURURU RURURURURURURURURURURURU.

Mostly comes out wrong.

I'm pretty sure I'm releasing the Shift before the u; it's just not
actually releasing the moment the key cap rises from the bottom.

This could be compensated in the operating system's driver. Or in an
aplpication that works with raw scan codes.

That is to say, a minimum "hold time" can be required in order for a
Shift to affect a keystroke. Timing diagram:

__x___
R ____/ \__________
__x___
U: ________/ \____
____x___
Shift: _/ \___________
| |
-| |-- t_hold


The x marks when you're actually releasing it; the flat part after that
is the delay to the actual release.

Suppose t_hold between Shift and U is less than the configured minimum,
then the shift is not considered to be in effect for U.

The one that gets me is the accidental hit of the capital lock key. You are typing without really looking at the monitor. You eventual look up to see that the last 2 sentences are all capitals caused by a careless pinky finger hitting the cap lock key. The cap lock key is just above the shift key so it is easy enough to do. Who designed the keyboard layout ?

There should be an easy way to swap capitals in this case, like hitting shift or caps lock with the text highlighted. It happens to me all the time.

On Tuesday, October 22, 2013 at 4:08:19 PM UTC-4, SharpShooter wrote:
Trying to fix a 32" RCA TV DVD Combo. model # RLCDV3282A-B.

When I plug in the TV does not turn ON. However a dim power light (RED led) comes On.

No clicking sound. No buzzing. Nothing. Plain and simply dead except for the dim POWER light.

I am unable to locate specifically the bad component.

Checked most capacitors. No visible signs of damage or bulge.

Across the main 450v 68uF capacitor I get 90v DC. Mains has steady 110V AC.

Output connectors of the main power supply board gives 24, 12 and 5 v DC. No problems.

However, the DVD board is not getting its 5 volt DC which actually comes from the main-board that has the graphic ic and all other video ouput connectors like HDMI etc.

I am unable to trace where/why the 5 volts from this board is NOT coming to the connector. There is another set of long connector on this main board which receives power from the power supply and that shows the relevant 12v and 5 v Dc at that point.

So in short, the main-graphic board that also powers the dvd is not giving 5v dc output to the DVD player - which i believe also powers the switches - and thus the TV is perhaps frozen in standby mode ( I am not sure of that) No remote so I cannot take it out of the standby mode - also ALL the switches are non responsive.

Any help will be appreciated.

Do you still have this TV or do you possibly have the base for it?