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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Switching PSU trouble.
I'm servicing an old PC switching PSU.
It's odd form factor and very small dimension prevents me to substitute the inner board and forces me to repair... It gave 23V (!) on the +12V, +3.81V on the +5V, -5 and -12 were OK. At first glance, I noticed a resistor with a dark brown colour, 1/4W, R1 across the +12V (red-red-burnt-gold-white). Not considering the fifth stripe (white) it could be 22/220/2200. But 22 Ohm will dissipate about 6.55W, too much for 1/4W. Near R1, there's R2, (brown-black-brown-gold-white), 100 Ohm 1/4W I replaced all capacitors. Almost all of them were leaking (ESR5), and one was severely burnt on the bottom. Now the oddities. Initially I thought that R1/R2 were 5 band resistors, so I put R1=22 Ohm, R2=10 Ohm. The PSU came up with +5V and 11.8V, but the PCB near R1,R2 was very hot. Then I put the correct (?) value for R2, 100 Ohm. The voltages were correct again, and R1 suddenly smoked (6.55W on 1/4W). Increasing R1 (on the +12V) leads to Vcc of the 3844 (PWM) under startup value. I put back the original R2, measured as 97.7 Ohm, leaving R1 at 22 Ohm. Vcc again under minimum value. R2=100 Ohm, holy smoke from R1. Odd, because R1=22 Ohm, R2=10 Ohm worked... So, I'm missing something. The original resistors were 1/4 W, across 5V and 12V... I don't think R1 can be 22 Ohm... Initial condition was this http://www.supervinx.com/temp/01.JPG ---- http://www.supervinx.com/temp/02.JPG http://www.supervinx.com/temp/03.JPG http://www.supervinx.com/temp/04.JPG http://www.supervinx.com/temp/05.JPG http://www.supervinx.com/temp/06.JPG |
#2
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Switching PSU trouble.
On Mon, 17 Jun 2013 00:25:24 +0000 (UTC), John
wrote: I'm servicing an old PC switching PSU. It's odd form factor and very small dimension prevents me to substitute the inner board and forces me to repair... I don't have much of a clue on how to fix that power supply. Too much of the circuitry is under the black goo, and therefore impossible to identify or easily replace. If you supply some additional info, I think I find a suitable surplus equivalent power supply: What maker and model PC used this power supply? Any maker or model number on the power supply case? ITX? Mini ITX? Micro ATX? Mini ATX? Pico ITX? etc? What are the dimensions of the power supply case? Maybe: http://www.mpja.com/Computer-Power-Supplies/products/36/ http://www.alltronics.com/cgi-bin/category/158 http://www.ebay.com/itm/160655942010 If you're totally stuck and can't find anything small enough to fit, look into the various micro/pico power supply devices, where most of the power supply is on the power plug, and is fed from an external 12V regulated power source. http://www.ebay.com/bhp/picopsu If that will fit, you could use the space previously occupied by the power supply case to install a 12V PS. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#3
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Switching PSU trouble.
John wrote:
I'm servicing an old PC switching PSU. From the pictures, it looks like R2 (100 ohms) is across one of the outputs - probably the +5 V output (red wires) - and 0 V / chassis ground. This gives 0.05 A through it and 0.25 W dissipated. If it really is a 1/4 W resistor, this is right at the limit, but believable. R1 looks like it is across the +12 V output and 0 V / chassis ground. My guess is that R1 and R2 are there to provide a bare minimum load on the +5 V and +12 V outputs. Since R2 seems to have been OK originally, and it measured close to the 100 ohm value you would get from reading the brown-black-brown-gold bands and ignoring the white one, it seems reasonable that R1 would work the same way: red-red-?-gold. You already found out that 22 ohms for R1 doesn't work. 220 ohms for R1 would give 0.055 A through it and 0.65 W dissipated - too much for a 1/4 W, but maybe believable. 2200 ohms for R1 would give 0.0055 A through it and 0.065 W dissipated - fine for a 1/4 W. Have you tried measuring the original R1? At a guess, I'd put in a 100 ohm, 0.5 watt resistor for R2, and maybe a 220 ohm, 1 watt resistor for R1. If you don't like how hot R1 gets, maybe 2200 ohm, 0.25 watt for R1. I guess that a 22,000 ohm resistor for R1 won't draw enough current to really do any good. Matt Roberds |
#4
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Switching PSU trouble.
Il Mon, 17 Jun 2013 03:13:08 +0000, mroberds ha scritto:
John wrote: I'm servicing an old PC switching PSU. From the pictures, it looks like R2 (100 ohms) is across one of the outputs - probably the +5 V output (red wires) - and 0 V / chassis ground. This gives 0.05 A through it and 0.25 W dissipated. If it really is a 1/4 W resistor, this is right at the limit, but believable. R1 looks like it is across the +12 V output and 0 V / chassis ground. My guess is that R1 and R2 are there to provide a bare minimum load on the +5 V and +12 V outputs. Since R2 seems to have been OK originally, and it measured close to the 100 ohm value you would get from reading the brown-black-brown-gold bands and ignoring the white one, it seems reasonable that R1 would work the same way: red-red-?-gold. You already found out that 22 ohms for R1 doesn't work. 220 ohms for R1 would give 0.055 A through it and 0.65 W dissipated - too much for a 1/4 W, but maybe believable. 2200 ohms for R1 would give 0.0055 A through it and 0.065 W dissipated - fine for a 1/4 W. Have you tried measuring the original R1? At a guess, I'd put in a 100 ohm, 0.5 watt resistor for R2, and maybe a 220 ohm, 1 watt resistor for R1. If you don't like how hot R1 gets, maybe 2200 ohm, 0.25 watt for R1. I guess that a 22,000 ohm resistor for R1 won't draw enough current to really do any good. Matt Roberds R1 measures 22.1 Ohm . -- http://www.supervinx.com/Retrocomputer |
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