Probe 1 doesnt respond to any input..., ch 2 seems ok.
BNC connector was loose and wire to resistor broke loose
+Wire from resistor to BNC connector was re soldered nut tightened
to BNC, and was working fine. Repair still looks good but
ch 1 trace just a flat line can only adjust location of flat line.
afraid to adjust internal pots in fear that I am making things worse.
Channel 2 is working good responds to testing and calibration
and internal pot adjustments. more in depth repair? or More aggressive
adjusting? any thoughts?

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Don m wrote in message
roups.com...
Probe 1 doesnt respond to any input..., ch 2 seems ok.
BNC connector was loose and wire to resistor broke loose
+Wire from resistor to BNC connector was re soldered nut tightened
to BNC, and was working fine. Repair still looks good but
ch 1 trace just a flat line can only adjust location of flat line.
afraid to adjust internal pots in fear that I am making things worse.
Channel 2 is working good responds to testing and calibration
and internal pot adjustments. more in depth repair? or More aggressive
adjusting? any thoughts?

--
+-----------[ SERVER SIGNATURE ]-----------+
| posted via http://www.electrondepot.com |
| Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to |
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+------------------------------------------+




Blown first transistor or corrossion in one of the attenuator switch
actions, no pot twiddling will resolve it.
Can you swap a screened lead somewhere inside ? like checking left and right
amps of a stereo unit

OHMMETER

Does it read a short ?

"Don" m wrote in message
roups.com...
Probe 1 doesnt respond to any input..., ch 2 seems ok. BNC connector was
loose and wire to resistor broke loose +Wire from resistor to BNC
connector was re soldered nut tightened
to BNC, and was working fine. Repair still looks good but ch 1 trace just
a flat line can only adjust location of flat line. afraid to adjust
internal pots in fear that I am making things worse. Channel 2 is
working good responds to testing and calibration
and internal pot adjustments. more in depth repair? or More aggressive
adjusting? any thoughts?

--
+-----------[ SERVER SIGNATURE ]-----------+
| posted via http://www.electrondepot.com |
| Web, RSS and Social Media Interface to |
| sci.electronics.repair and other groups |
+------------------------------------------+



If it's anything like my V1050, suspect switches. I recently lost all sync
on mine. That turned out to be a switch that had gone completely open
circuit in both directions, which was odd because it was a nice 'snap
action' job. A good squib of switch cleaner that I managed to get into the
body of the switch through a small hole formed where the metal 'sides' were
folded together, followed by a vigorous 'working' of the switch for 10
seconds, produced a complete cure. Over the years, I've lost various
functions on this scope through similarly bad switches. The problem has
always been cured with switch cleaner.

Arfa