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Electronics Repair (sci.electronics.repair) Discussion of repairing electronic equipment. Topics include requests for assistance, where to obtain servicing information and parts, techniques for diagnosis and repair, and annecdotes about success, failures and problems. |
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#1
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Garage door control board
No joy on finding a schematic for a LiftMaster control board. Thought I'd
ask here. The remotes (4 of them) work flawlessly to open the door. They also work to close the door, but only after the built-in overhead light turns off. That takes about 2 minutes. Checked the obvious for the beam sensor: sensor obstruction, sensor wiring, sensor lenses, sensor alignment. The wall switch always works. Any ideas? Thanks! |
#2
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Garage door control board
"Charles" wrote in message ... No joy on finding a schematic for a LiftMaster control board. Thought I'd ask here. The remotes (4 of them) work flawlessly to open the door. They also work to close the door, but only after the built-in overhead light turns off. That takes about 2 minutes. Checked the obvious for the beam sensor: sensor obstruction, sensor wiring, sensor lenses, sensor alignment. The wall switch always works. Any ideas? Thanks! Are you using CFLs in the unit? |
#3
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Garage door control board
"tm" wrote in message ... "Charles" wrote in message ... No joy on finding a schematic for a LiftMaster control board. Thought I'd ask here. The remotes (4 of them) work flawlessly to open the door. They also work to close the door, but only after the built-in overhead light turns off. That takes about 2 minutes. Checked the obvious for the beam sensor: sensor obstruction, sensor wiring, sensor lenses, sensor alignment. The wall switch always works. Any ideas? Thanks! Are you using CFLs in the unit? No, just an ordinary incandescent. I see your point ... high frequency interference. |
#4
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Garage door control board
An older unit?
My limited experience with a 10 year old Genie opener with failed control board: check carefully for a corroded trace. [Perhaps more expecetd here in Hawaii but could happen anywhere as the Genie board was not well protected from the environment.] "Charles" wrote in message ... "tm" wrote in message ... "Charles" wrote in message ... No joy on finding a schematic for a LiftMaster control board. Thought I'd ask here. The remotes (4 of them) work flawlessly to open the door. They also work to close the door, but only after the built-in overhead light turns off. That takes about 2 minutes. Checked the obvious for the beam sensor: sensor obstruction, sensor wiring, sensor lenses, sensor alignment. The wall switch always works. Any ideas? Thanks! Are you using CFLs in the unit? No, just an ordinary incandescent. I see your point ... high frequency interference. |
#5
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Garage door control board
"John Keiser" wrote in message ... An older unit? My limited experience with a 10 year old Genie opener with failed control board: check carefully for a corroded trace. [Perhaps more expecetd here in Hawaii but could happen anywhere as the Genie board was not well protected from the environment.] "Charles" wrote in message ... "tm" wrote in message ... "Charles" wrote in message ... No joy on finding a schematic for a LiftMaster control board. Thought I'd ask here. The remotes (4 of them) work flawlessly to open the door. They also work to close the door, but only after the built-in overhead light turns off. That takes about 2 minutes. Checked the obvious for the beam sensor: sensor obstruction, sensor wiring, sensor lenses, sensor alignment. The wall switch always works. Any ideas? Thanks! Are you using CFLs in the unit? No, just an ordinary incandescent. I see your point ... high frequency interference. If you turn the light on before opening the door will it cause the same problem? How about if you remove the bulbs? |
#6
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Garage door control board
On Wed, 6 Mar 2013 18:02:37 -0500, "Charles"
wrote: No joy on finding a schematic for a LiftMaster control board. Thought I'd ask here. Model number? http://www.liftmaster.com The remotes (4 of them) work flawlessly to open the door. They also work to close the door, but only after the built-in overhead light turns off. That takes about 2 minutes. The off time on the light should be adjustable. That should help with the testing. Checked the obvious for the beam sensor: sensor obstruction, sensor wiring, sensor lenses, sensor alignment. The wall switch always works. Check the "Protector" obstruction sensor again. It's optical, where there's an IR beam going across the garage door opening detects pets and people. If you break the beam, the overhead light comes on, and the garage door stops. The overhead light may be overloading the optical obstruction detector, which pretends that there's an obstruction, until the overhead light goes out. Put a smaller light bulb in the overhead, or just remove the bulb temporarily to see if something optical is associated with the problem. If that's the case, put a paper or plastic pipe over the optical detector to block light from the overhead bulb. -- Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
#7
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Garage door control board
On Wednesday, March 6, 2013 4:02:37 PM UTC-7, Charles wrote:
The remotes (4 of them) work flawlessly to open the door. They also work to close the door, but only after the built-in overhead light turns off. That takes about 2 minutes. Checked the obvious for the beam sensor: sensor obstruction, sensor wiring, sensor lenses, sensor alignment. The wall switch always works. Any luck at Sears.com or ElektroTanya.com ? Liftmaster is the same as Chamberlain and Sears Craftsman, only with a one-piece overhead rail. I found that the optical sensor can seem OK and its LED seems to glow steadily, but in reality it may be cutting in and out very rapidly because of a bad wiring connection from motor vibration, which also eventually cracks some of the solder, all over. If your wall button isn't lighted, it can cause problems with the optical sensor -- something about the lack of a pull-up or pull-down resistor. Chamberlain used to give out lighted wall consoles to fix this problem, but if you phone them, talk to an electronics tech instead of an installation tech. Could the driver for the relay of the overhead light be at fault? I had a protective diode across a relay coil blow and cause intermittent glitches with an opener. |
#8
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Garage door control board
On Mar 6, 5:02*pm, "Charles" wrote:
No joy on finding a schematic for a LiftMaster control board. *Thought I'd ask here. The remotes (4 of them) work flawlessly to open the door. *They also work to close the door, but only after the built-in overhead light turns off. *That takes about 2 minutes. Checked the obvious for the beam sensor: sensor obstruction, sensor wiring, sensor lenses, sensor alignment. *The wall switch always works. Any ideas? Thanks! Unscrew the overhead light and see what happens and let us know. |
#9
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Garage door control board
" wrote in message ... On Mar 6, 5:02 pm, "Charles" wrote: No joy on finding a schematic for a LiftMaster control board. Thought I'd ask here. The remotes (4 of them) work flawlessly to open the door. They also work to close the door, but only after the built-in overhead light turns off. That takes about 2 minutes. Checked the obvious for the beam sensor: sensor obstruction, sensor wiring, sensor lenses, sensor alignment. The wall switch always works. Any ideas? Thanks! Unscrew the overhead light and see what happens and let us know. No effect. |
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