Hi and help!
I have removed a ceiling light I have previously replaced but this time it's gone wrong!
I can 't get it wired right at all

I have 4 cables from the ceiling each with a red, a black and an earth. I know one runs what I'd call a 'serial' circuit to a second light from this light.

Following the original set up I have 4 reds together, 3 blacks and 1 separate black. A brown goes into the light L port from the single black and a blue returns to the clustered blacks from the N port.

Foolishly I didn't mark the switch wires and have run trial and error on the blacks to varying results - best being solidly on.

Please can someone offer some advice.

Thanks

"unbeliever1865" wrote in message
...

Hi and help!
I have removed a ceiling light I have previously replaced but this time
it's gone wrong!
I can 't get it wired right at all

I have 4 cables from the ceiling each with a red, a black and an earth.
I know one runs what I'd call a 'serial' circuit to a second light from
this light.

Following the original set up I have 4 reds together, 3 blacks and 1
separate black. A brown goes into the light L port from the single black
and a blue returns to the clustered blacks from the N port.

Foolishly I didn't mark the switch wires and have run trial and error on
the blacks to varying results - best being solidly on.

Please can someone offer some advice.

Thanks


One of the red / black pairs will be the switch drop, and another will be
the feed to the second light fitting. With the fuse removed from the
consumer unit, and the bulb removed from the second light fitting, use an
ohm meter to go across each black / red pair, first with the light switch
on, and then with it off. When you find the pair that alternate between zero
ohms and infinity when the switch is worked, that is your switch drop. Mark
it.

Now, with that cable pushed off to one side, and still with the fuse
removed, put the bulb back into the second fitting, and again put your ohm
meter across each of the remaining three red / black pairs, until you find
one that has a low reading. Now remove the bulb from the second fitting
again, and check that the reading has changed to infinity. This will be the
cable to the second fitting. Mark it.

The wiring scheme should now be :

Blacks from the remaining two cables together into one of the connector
blocks. We'll call it block 'A'. Reds from the remaining two cables (these
cables are the live and neutral that are the lighting ring feed) together
into another block. We'll call that one block 'B'. Black from the cable that
goes to the second fitting goes into block 'A' with the first two blacks.
Red from the switch drop cable goes into block 'B' with the first two reds.
Black from the switch drop cable, goes into the third terminal block, 'C'
*together with* the *RED* from the cable to the second light fitting. Earths
from all the cables join together in the earth terminal of the fitting. That
should take care of all of the 'fixed' wires. Now the blue and brown from
the pendant on the first fitting. The blue goes into block 'A' with the
fixed blacks in it, and the brown goes into block 'C' with the black / red
from the switch drop / second fitting.

Things were made a lot easier when proper red / red switch drop cable was
used by electricians, but all too often, standard red / black was used to
save the electrician having to stock more than one type of lighting circuit
cable ...

Replace the fuse, and hopefully, away you go. Good luck with it !

Arfa

A perfect reply and clearly described. You have my greatest thanks.

"unbeliever1865" wrote in message
...

A perfect reply and clearly described. You have my greatest thanks.




--
unbeliever1865


No probs. Glad to have been of assistance ... :-)

Arfa

On Mar 6, 9:17*am, "Arfa Daily" wrote:
"unbeliever1865" wrote in message

...







Hi and help!
I have removed a ceiling light I have previously replaced but this time
it's gone wrong!
I can 't get it wired right at all

I have 4 cables from the ceiling each with a red, a black and an earth.
I know one runs what I'd call a 'serial' circuit to a second light from
this light.

Following the original set up I have 4 reds together, 3 blacks and 1
separate black. A brown goes into the light L port from the single black
and a blue returns to the clustered blacks from the N port.

Foolishly I didn't mark the switch wires and have run trial and error on
the blacks to varying results - best being solidly on.

Please can someone offer some advice.

Thanks

One of the red / black pairs will be the switch drop, and another will be
the feed to the second light fitting. With the fuse removed from the
consumer unit, and the bulb removed from the second light fitting, use an
ohm meter to go across each black / red pair, first with the light switch
on, and then with it off. When you find the pair that alternate between zero
ohms and infinity when the switch is worked, that is your switch drop. Mark
it.

Now, with that cable pushed off to one side, and still with the fuse
removed, put the bulb back into the second fitting, and again put your ohm
meter across each of the remaining three red / black pairs, until you find
one that has a low reading. Now remove the bulb from the second fitting
again, and check that the reading has changed to infinity. This will be the
cable to the second fitting. Mark it.

The wiring scheme should now be :

Blacks from the remaining two cables together into one of the connector
blocks. We'll call it block 'A'. *Reds from the remaining two cables (these
cables are the live and neutral that are the lighting ring feed) together
into another block. We'll call that one block 'B'. Black from the cable that
goes to the second fitting goes into block 'A' with the first two blacks.
Red from the switch drop cable goes into block 'B' with the first two reds.
Black from the switch drop cable, goes into the third terminal block, 'C'
*together with* the *RED* from the cable to the second light fitting. Earths
from all the cables join together in the earth terminal of the fitting. That
should take care of all of the 'fixed' wires. Now the blue and brown from
the pendant on the first fitting. The blue goes into block 'A' with the
fixed blacks in it, and the brown goes into block 'C' with the black / red
from the switch drop / second fitting.

Things were made a lot easier when proper red / red switch drop cable was
used by electricians, but all too often, standard red / black was used to
save the electrician having to stock more than one type of lighting circuit
cable ...

Replace the fuse, and hopefully, away you go. Good luck with it !

Arfa- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What is "consumer unit"??

wrote:
On Mar 6, 9:17 am, "Arfa Daily" wrote:

With the fuse removed from the consumer unit, and the bulb removed
from the second light fitting,

What is "consumer unit"??

"Consumer unit" is English for "breaker panel" or "fuse box" in American.

Matt Roberds

wrote in message ...

wrote:
On Mar 6, 9:17 am, "Arfa Daily" wrote:

With the fuse removed from the consumer unit, and the bulb removed
from the second light fitting,

What is "consumer unit"??

"Consumer unit" is English for "breaker panel" or "fuse box" in American.

Matt Roberds



It s also what we English do in the pub, or more commonly now, at home.


Hic.



Gareth.

" wrote in message
...
On Mar 6, 9:17 am, "Arfa Daily" wrote:
"unbeliever1865" wrote in message

...







Hi and help!
I have removed a ceiling light I have previously replaced but this time
it's gone wrong!
I can 't get it wired right at all

I have 4 cables from the ceiling each with a red, a black and an earth.
I know one runs what I'd call a 'serial' circuit to a second light from
this light.

Following the original set up I have 4 reds together, 3 blacks and 1
separate black. A brown goes into the light L port from the single
black
and a blue returns to the clustered blacks from the N port.

Foolishly I didn't mark the switch wires and have run trial and error
on
the blacks to varying results - best being solidly on.

Please can someone offer some advice.

Thanks

One of the red / black pairs will be the switch drop, and another will be
the feed to the second light fitting. With the fuse removed from the
consumer unit, and the bulb removed from the second light fitting, use an
ohm meter to go across each black / red pair, first with the light switch
on, and then with it off. When you find the pair that alternate between
zero
ohms and infinity when the switch is worked, that is your switch drop.
Mark
it.

Now, with that cable pushed off to one side, and still with the fuse
removed, put the bulb back into the second fitting, and again put your
ohm
meter across each of the remaining three red / black pairs, until you
find
one that has a low reading. Now remove the bulb from the second fitting
again, and check that the reading has changed to infinity. This will be
the
cable to the second fitting. Mark it.

The wiring scheme should now be :

Blacks from the remaining two cables together into one of the connector
blocks. We'll call it block 'A'. Reds from the remaining two cables
(these
cables are the live and neutral that are the lighting ring feed) together
into another block. We'll call that one block 'B'. Black from the cable
that
goes to the second fitting goes into block 'A' with the first two blacks.
Red from the switch drop cable goes into block 'B' with the first two
reds.
Black from the switch drop cable, goes into the third terminal block, 'C'
*together with* the *RED* from the cable to the second light fitting.
Earths
from all the cables join together in the earth terminal of the fitting.
That
should take care of all of the 'fixed' wires. Now the blue and brown from
the pendant on the first fitting. The blue goes into block 'A' with the
fixed blacks in it, and the brown goes into block 'C' with the black /
red
from the switch drop / second fitting.

Things were made a lot easier when proper red / red switch drop cable was
used by electricians, but all too often, standard red / black was used to
save the electrician having to stock more than one type of lighting
circuit
cable ...

Replace the fuse, and hopefully, away you go. Good luck with it !

Arfa- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

What is "consumer unit"??

British for fuse / distribution board. Not sure what you call it your side
of the pond. Zillions of piccies on Google Images

Arfa

"Gareth Magennis" wrote in message
...


wrote in message ...
wrote:
On Mar 6, 9:17 am, "Arfa Daily" wrote:

With the fuse removed from the consumer unit, and the bulb removed
from the second light fitting,

What is "consumer unit"??

"Consumer unit" is English for "breaker panel" or "fuse box" in American.

Matt Roberds



It s also what we English do in the pub, or more commonly now, at home.


Hic.



Gareth.



That will fall on many deaf ears, Gareth ... :-)

Arfa